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Comments
How does that price sound?
MEC
they are really low
rear wing spoiler $352 (dealers ask about $500)
auto day/night mirror: $182 (dealers ask around $300)
moonroof visor $78.72 (dealers ask around $110)
shipping charge is not much = $21
so, if the dealer does not offer me similar prices, I will buy from there and pay the dealer for installation(spoiler & mirror... and visors, both door and moonroof guy from hparts told me, I can install myself)
how good and how fast was the service?
For the last time, I paid 25,579, except for tax, for a EX-V6 sedan with NAVI. And for those of you price shoping dealers, read my posts of a few weeks ago for a simple method of interacting with them.
You say you are getting a specific price quote on a car that isn't even built yet. Which dealership are you dealing with, and how many months out of the womb is the salesman. Honda is scheduling a price increase after the first of the year, and no one knows what its going to be. So if they are quoting you a price, TAKE IT! Because after a price adjustment, you will probably be the only person in the country who got the V6 6MT BELOW invoice. If you don't, you probably just end up driving your 1982 Mercury Montego for another year.
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The LX includes the engine immobilizer which may be considered a security system. It prevents the engine from starting if you don't have the "chip" key in the ignition. But it's not an alarm system which would go off if someone broke into the car.
I paid several 100's below invoice, but then again I got a 5sp which I'm sure has far less demand.
6MT navi: $28,360
6MT non-navi: $24,860
5MT navi: $23,960
5MT non-navi: $22,760
It pretty much equates $1,500 under sticker (except the 6MT navi) and it includes the destination charges. The internet manager stated no "bs" charges, just tax, tags, doc.
Im considering the 6MT navi & 5MT navi units. Will there be much of a difference with the resale value of the 6MT as compared with the 5MT down the road from their respective sale price? I plan to sell my car after I'm done paying it off.
Also what is this about a price increase after the new year?
I got an EX-V6 NAVI sedan for $208 over invoice ($25680), with mud guards and door edge guards. Considering they started at over $31k, I did alright, but it wasn't the clean Internet deal I was expecting. They went to invoice immediately, and then I spent 3 hours arguing over dealer add-on pricing. I was surprised to get near invoice for a NAVI Accord only a few week after they came out. Originally I was looking for a non-NAVI, but they didn't have any in my color.
Geod... that is a great price. Same goes as above. Just don't go higher than 23,700 before tax, and tags, for the car, and all "accessories" that you hadn't asked for.
Prep21, I assume that price for the 5auto navi wasn't the Ex-V6?
This will be my first car purchase. I'm beginning to second guess my purchase of the 6-speed and navi combo due to financial changes. Although I already got the 6-speed navi on reserve @ $500 under sticker, the 6-speed non-navi and 5-speed navi are my new choices. I don't know what to pick.
If you're sure you've put away the cash you should, and might need, and have then left enough spending money to take advantage of opportunities that pop up, then go for it. But just don't become a slave to your car. Remember, as cool as it is, it only gets you places, and it's once you get where your going that you usually are trying to have fun... keep enough money to go places and do those things that we are freer to do at this age. Not being able to go out and enjoy yourself because your worried about your car payments defeats the purpose, and wastes opportunities that won't come round again.
That said, you've then got to figure which you'll get more out of, power, or technology. I live in D.C. and drive allot as a government contractor, so I wanted NAVI to find this building or that (with all our one-way streets), and a sedan to take our clients out in if need be (though I still got the V6). Unless you think you drive in situation in which you'll NEED it, and really appreciate that $2000 for it, maybe I'd say go with the power. But I don't know your situation. Just my thoughts. Just be sure to "pay yourself first." Anything can drive you around, but it can't help you have fun with your friends if it's taking all your money.
thanks !
Purchased Nov30/02 a new 03 EX-L auto at invoice, traded my 99 EX auto at "private party price" and availed of 3.99 APR Honda promo. All the numbers to determine these came from Edmund's and local Atlanta paper to confirm "private party price" and new car promos.
Basic to this story is: like most everyone else, I wanted 1) invoice price on the new car, 2) to avoid the hassle of selling my trade to private buyers, and 3) to minimize out-of-body negotiation experience at the dealership by coming in confident of my "numbers."
After getting all the required info (new car invoice/destination/sales tax, old car pay-off and classified ad price, and APR), I went to Edmund's financial calculator (click on "5.19% APR" or similar tag line and go to "calculator tab") to arrive at my monthly payment.
TAKE NOTE that sales tax is based on difference of new car price and trade, which knocked off in my case about $600 from the calculation (a good thing).
On the last step, you probably know already that timing is very critical to the process: go on the last day of the month - in the last few hours - to negotiate. You have your monthly payment target. Dealer probably is short of sales quota with inventory to let go (especially if existing inventory is at higher "floorstock financing" interest rate). And...in your mind, you're willing to keep your old car a month or two more if the numbers aren't met tonight (tell dealer this).
Applying the above, I walk into the dealership at 5pm on Nov 30 with my trade squeaky clean and smelling good. I had my monthly payment goal of $290/month for 60 months, a number that meets all original parameters.
After the mandatory test drive (of the actual unit I might purchase, which salesperson picked off the lot with the shipment stickers intact - insurance that it hasn't been driven around, etc.), we start negotiation.
Salesperson comes in with, believe it or not, $440/mo versus my $290/mo goal.
Confident of my number, I pleasantly decline the offer and repeat that I could keep my old car if the numbers weren't right.
Salesperson with business manager return with $330 and explain that some things like mudguards, special paint protection and "dealer fee" were extra. I knew that altogether these add-ons wouldn't be more than $300 and so, I held my ground.
It's important (at least to me) to be friendly but in control during the process because the dealer, being human, could opt to end the negotiation if the process turned too unpleasant and personal.
Finally, at about 800pm the business manager returns and tells the salesperson to do the paperwork at my target payment, $290/mo for 60 months.
At the business office, I decline an offer for the $600/45k extended warranty covering oil changes, tire rotation and routine check-ups because they're available off-dealer for less than $200.
Why I think this is win-win: Dealer moves unit off the lot and gets his 3% or so "manufacturer's hold-back." It's one more unit to his month's quota. Possibly, his replacement unit will be at a lower inventory interest rate. Salesperson gets commission.
And buyer gets invoice on new car/private party price on trade/APR promo of the month.
Good luck.
If you clicked on Edmund's "Customized Appraisal" link below its pricing info on your chosen car, you'll get based on make, mileage and condition three prices for your particular car: its trade-in value (what dealers credit you for your old car) which is the lowest, the private party price as discussed, and the dealer price (what they'll sell your old car for).
Since everyone wants to avoid the hassle of private selling (to get the highest price), it would be ideal to get a trade-in value that's equal of close to the "private party" price, right ?
Thinking this, I DIDN'T use Edmund's trade-in price but instead used its private-party price as my desired trade-in value. Like having my cake and eating it too. Actually, it's not far-fetched because a good-condition trade can be sold by the dealer at a price higher than the classified-ad (or private party) price because of warranties and generally lower APRs it can offer the public.
So, here's my sample:
1) New car's invoice price + sales tax + destination, MINUS
2) Trade's private party price, PLUS
3) Trade's pay-off, if any, EQUALS
4) Amount financed or AF
5) Using Edmund's financial calculator, enter AF, number of months, and APR
6) Result is your monthly payment target
Let me know if I can answer any more questions.
Benny
Choice info!
Tnx
Thanks!
geod: They have been building Accords here since the mid-80's and even started exporting US built Accord LX-i Coupes to Japan in 1988. So I wouldn't worry about a difference in build quality. Both my Japan-built 99 sedan and my 01 US-built coupe were fine. As were my US built 96 Civic, 98 Civic, and 00 Si's.
Previously was umyaya at about $23,600, and before that inky4 and others at $24K
Incredible.
To Anonymous- yes, I'm from Atlanta. Dealer is Gwinnett Place Honda and salesperson is Bob Wannamaker. To get desired results, I strongly recommend last day/last hours strategy with a prepared bid. Since it's year-end, I would start with a 3% below-invoice bid. To move one or two last units for the year, they might just do it. Good luck.
I'm guessing that your negotiating leverage is compromised in a dealer swap setting. If Ed Voyles can't give your price, you might consider playing the supply/demand game until year end.
From now until then, dealers might be getting more shipments to end up overstocked and be motivated to clear inventory. Could mean $600-$900 in your favor, good for a nice set of rims.
As someone posted here, it's shaping up to be a buyer's market, with waiting for the month-end/at-invoice purchase being the main shopping tactic.
I'm helping my son get a car too (the new car's siren song makes him want to just start driving that car) but I'm offering him the dealer's "even if it's at invoice, sell it because it's the last weekend of December" viewpoint.
Since we're looking too, why not let me know your model/color preference. I might be able to help.
The one we are waiting on was supposed to be built on the 14th but we called them on the 19th and they said they still didn't have a VIN or a ship date. We are just impatient ...
If I wait until end of this month (the late afternoon of the December 31) what should I be looking to offer $ wise? What interest rate? Also I have a 2001 Volkswagon Passat I must trade as part of the deal. I am appreciating reading your strategies. As a woman, it helps me to go in with the numbers in my head. Any one bought a coupe in Southern California?
1)Identify the 15-20 dealers closest to you. (you can find them on the Honda Web Site)
2) Call each of them to get the name and fax number for the Fleet Manager. If they don't have a Fleet Manager, get the Sales Manager's name.
3) Prepare a fax to send to each of the dealers stating that you will purchase a new vehicle on the 30th or 31st. Include the Invoice price, MSRP, plus indicate that you know there is a holdback of 3% of MSRP. Tell them in the fax to call you with a price quote. Send this fax (Personalized) to each Fleet Manager on your list.
4) Send them the Fax the day after Christmas (Thursday) first thing in the morning. This is the best time of the month and of the year to do this. About 50% will return your call. (Maybe more this time of year). If they don't call in 3-4 hours call and make sure they got your fax. They can often get 'lost' at the dealer. Re-fax it if necessary.
5) When they call, record the price and the 'out the door' price including tax, title, license. Tell they that you will call on Friday to tell them where they stand. If they don't give you a price tell them that you won't let them take advantage of the process without being part of it. Remember their job is to sell to you and they don't want to be excluded (especially at this time of year).
6) When you have all your quotes, arrange from highest price to lowest, then starting with the highest price bid, call the manager. Tell them "My best price was $XX,XXX, so I guess that's the one I'll take". Then don't say a word. They may then offer to beat the price you quoted. If so, that's your new best offer to report to the others, but tell them that you promised to call back the other respondents as well. Then continue in the same pattern down the list.
Remember. Stay out of the dealership until you have a deal. There is no reason to go back to them at this point. If they want to sell a car to you the'll do it on your terms. This just like any other purchase where you shop for the best price. You are in control and with Honda dealers there is plenty of competition.
This info is also on the Motley Fool site see: http://www.fool.com/car/Buyingacar.htm?source=PRMPIN
Another good place to go is http://www.carbuyingtips.com. Lots of advice to keep from getting scammed.
Another possible alternative is similar to this. An auto site called http://www.mycarmyprice.com which lets dealers bid against each other on the lowest price they're willing to sell to you. You can go there and see the current and past bids for the car you're looking for. They give them a full 7 days to bid, though, so if you go that route, you should do so by this Sunday or Monday.
ALSO. Keep the Passat Trade as a separate deal AFTER you have gotten your car price. Actually you'll find that you can do much much better selling directly to a used car dealership - especially if you go to a VW dealer that has used cars. Make sure your car is clean and detailed. This will make it look well taken care of. These dealers will value your car more. You should be able to get close to the Edmunds used private party price. (Of course you'll get the best price selling it yourself).
Invoice price on EX V6 4DR is 23675
how can 23600 be 500 under invoice?
23675-500 = 23175
on Dec 20, 2002 (07:46 pm) sschilf wrote:
"I have been quoted $23,600 out the door for v6 ex in SC! The offer was $500 under invoice."
Thx -
this dealership is close by and I wanted to buy from them rather than drive 30 min to another one.
RT 22 honda initally offered me inovice price over the phone. What I did is called another dealer(DHCA Academy Honda in Oldbridge, NJ) and asked them if they can give me same price(I wanted to have a "Plan B" in case RT 22 Honda won't give me good price). Sales Manager told me he can give me an invoice price + promised that he can beat anybody's price.
I went to rt 22 honda, got their prices for the accessories (spoiler 600, visor 180, mirror 300) then I talked to guys at RT 22 honda and they agreed to match the price for accessories I got from another dealership. I told them that their doc fee ($199) is too high, he did not want to lower it, but give me 1 year of free oil changes.
I called back to DHCA academy honda and asked if they can sell the car below invoice but they did not want to.
I also got a discount on the extended warranty. I bought two warranties, one for myself, one for my father, who already has the same car I have.
warranties cost me: $699 each (7yr, 75000 miles, $0 deductible)
so finnaly I bought car at the invoice price plus accessories at the following cost:
Rear Wing Spoiler: 490
Auto Day/Night Rearview Mirror: 210
Moon Roof Visor: $75
It's not much higher then hparts.com and includes installation, plus dealer said they won't install parts if I buy them somewhere else.
They Charged me $92 DMV fee and $199 document fee
warranty: $699
free oil changes for 1 year
Interest Rate for Financing 3.49%
They tied to pull a few tricks:
0) tried to switch me to buying a demo car with 7000 miles on it... and the price on that car was HIGHER than on the new one...
1) financing calculations were a little off, so I recommend double checking it(you can call your friend and ask them to go to peoplefirst website and run calculations for you)
2) they added window etching ($200) to the printout without telling me about it first.
but removed it rightaway when I told them I don't want it.
3)
Overall experience was good. Sales person was polite even though he was tired of negotiations(it took about 5 hours to complete the purchase)
after we finished he showed me how to use the car controls, explained about anti theft radio code etc...
dealership contact info:
Rt 22 Honda:
Sales Person: Barry Green
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DHCA Academy Honda(oldbridge, NJ)
Ed Maccenzy(don't know the spelling) hi is a sales manager and it would probably be quicker to him, since he can offer you good price rightaway. Ask him if he would go below invoice if you buy today...
if you can't reach him, ask to talk to Victor Bontorno