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kyfdx
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I would think you should pay around 22,500. Anyone else? Really, beside the spoiler and hood protectant, you aren't getting much more than I got and it's used, for more money. While those accessories are nice, the dealer put them on, not you, and probably had some overhead or advertising account to charge them to. Don't feel you have to pay for them. Take the price that most seem to be getting for a new V6-Navi, and subtrack whatever the appropriate rate is for that much use.
I read a post which stated an over supply on these cars but I just want to get a general consensus to see if anyone has had to wait for this model in the last several weeks in case the salesman uses that "this car is hard to get" sales pitch on me.
Thanks!
As a high-mile demo (it's essentially a hard-driven used car considering how salespersons show it off during test drives), it should be at least 15% off the new price: $22.1k (near umyaya's price).
The most expensive add-on is the wing spoiler, obtainable online for less than $200. Mudflaps are $65 and the redundant paint protection - that's probably $15 max.
I'd negotiate $22.5k out-the-door for this car.
if you are talking about depreciation (#2113) a Honda depreciates rule of thumb 15 cents per mile going by (Honda facts book). This forum is suppose to be informative and helpful.$22,500 inclusive of all fees would not happen, just as well that you could not find a car with the same miles in the used market for the same price. Current TMV on a new is $26,229 inclusive of freight. based on the research I have done on this car, is a hard to find vehicle specially if you are specific about colors. My recommendation for the person buying this car is to take invoice which is $25,472inclusive of freight, take 1 to 2% and deducted from invoice. An informative offer would make your buying decision a more enjoyable one. As for the spoiler 561.40 installed, splushguards installed 135, paint protection package 150-200. I hope that helps a bit to show you facts.
1) Experience (mine and others on this forum) shows that Below-Invoice Prices for new, not demo, Accords are fact. With 16 miles on the odometer, my Accord EX V6 coupe went for $900+ below invoice. Others have achieved similar prices on cars with less than 10 miles.
A NAVI model might be rarer, but its buyers aren't plentiful either. Honda did not plan this to be a limited-edition model to boost collectible value; the Accord is a mainstream car whose supply & demand balance is biased towards volume sales. If NAVI demand is high, Honda will simply make more of them available.
Given the right purchase strategy, it's not impossible for this model to be had for invoice or even below it.
2) A car's ownership title might (and that's a big might) only be relevant when selling it later as a "1-owner car." However used-car assessment methods by Edmunds, Kelly et al do not factor in the number of a vehicle's owners but rather its condition & MILEAGE at the time of sale.
That said, the car not having been "titled" is essentially just a dealer's panacea for the fact that it has significant driven mileage. A car with 6k miles has obviously been used (abused ?) whether it's been titled or not.
More important, if the car had been driven hard as a demo - and unfortunately in the case of Accord V6 automatics - it becomes a high risk proposition (tranny replacements are not known to last).
3) On accessory prices, an OEM spoiler is $371 and is $160 (ebay) for an aftermarket brand. OEM mudflaps are $59. Labor shouldn't be more than $100 to install these parts. In all, $530 for all-OEM parts, installed. Paint protection - what chemical compound is there that will cost $150-$200 to apply ?
Reference:
http://partscheap.com/accordexterior03.htm#spoiler
http://partscheap.com/accordexterior03.htm#splash
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item- - =2411427987&category=33638
If one test drive is 10 miles, there have been 600 test drives on this car. $4k / 600 is $7/test drive as cost of promo (VERY CHEAP way to promote a car, right ?). Assuming 10% resulted in a sale, the promotional test drive would have amounted to $4k/60 customers or just a $70 profit hit per subsequent car sold. Not bad. So, why shouldn't wisaacson bid $22.5k ? Dealer wants to have his cake and eat it too !
Thanks!
I live within three miles of a state line, and have never bought a car in the state in which I reside, so, I have a little experience.
hope this helps,
kyfdx
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Atlantabenny has hit it pretty good. Please explain why anyone should pay much of anything for options installed on a dealer demo. The car is a used car. Ask anyone on the street if they'd want a car that had 6,000 test drive miles on it. Most are rightly afraid of 30+ test drive miles.
I paid less than 100 over invoice on that car (EX-V6 Navi) after it had only been out 2 weeks. Don't tell me it's an easy sale for every dealer. That car, while cleaner than most, has be "riden hard and put away wet."
It's a hot color. I have been tracking for 5 months. The price dropped $800 two days ago so I bought. Any other color and I would not have paid close to this. I had the blue one offered to me at $700 less - but wasn't interested in negotiating for something I didn't want.
And for a similar equipped Camry XLE, with new $750 rebate, I still would have paid over $1,000 more...made an easy decision for me.
kyfdx
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Anyone getting deals in the Boston area?
Thanks in advance!
Since I would not know how much the final amount would be, how do I deal with paying in cash, if I want to take delivery of the car the same day.
Do I take a cashiers check for an amount close to what I'm expecting, or would they give me a final $ amount and then I go to the bank and get the check? Getting a cashier's check the same day after negotiation might not work, since it will be after 6 PM.
Or would they just take a regular check.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Estimate the total:
Invoice price + tax + about $200 for paper fee.. I think it will be close to final number
After you are done the deal and get the final amount... give them your certified check...
If your check is more: they will write for you a check back for the different.
If your check is short: I think they will accept personal check or credit card for the small different.
Good luck with your purchase
For one, I got my 03 EX-V6 coupe, no navi, for $24.5 OTD. Price included 6% sales tax, doc fee, delivery, roof visor, mudflaps, wheel locks and trunk cargo net.
If no OTD price info is available, calculate invoice price for your car to include applicable tax, delivery, doc fee ($250 max) tag & license.
Deduct $1000 from result for the certified check amount. Cover difference, if any, with personal check during negotiation. Dealer should be willing to accept a $500 personal check with a $15,000 certified check, right ?
If the car is bare of accessories, an educated guess based on this thread is that you shouldn't add more than $500. If the car has accessories, add the following: $75 for roof visor, $60 for mudflaps, $20 for pinstripes, $30 for wheel locks, $30 for "paint protection," $15 for glass etching. These numbers are at cost. At most, add 20% if you need to.
Buying end of month will matter a lot. Hope this helps.
I have a couple of questions though.
(1) Can I buy the car on April 30th and pick it up on May 1st, and maybe pay on May 1st? Would it still count towards their April sales, so I'll get a better deal?
(2) Is it advisible to pay cash, since I get only 2% interest from the bank? My wife thinks we should not pay the whole amount.
Thanks for your help.
Current economy is not strong.. car sale is slow... dealer will treat you like a king.
Therefore. I think... dealer won't have problem if you do all the paper work on April 30.. and pick up & pay full for the car later... Of course, they will ask you for a deposit...
When you pick up be carefull.. to check the car all over again...
I read someone on this board said before.. he bought an Accord LX.. but didn't pick up... after a weekend... he pick up the car.. and later he realize that the car had 150+ miles on it... Too late..
About finance:
With 2% interest from bank... after tax.. real earn is just 1.35% (assume your tax rate is about 1/3)
If finance rate is not lower than 1.35%...
and if you have $$...then I think ..
=> you should pay full...
=> you will save a lot of time.. and won't have to worry about payments, stamps, late payment... etc...
However, if after paying cash for the car you'll be using 20% APR cards and such for other needs, you're better off 1) having the Accord financed at the going rate of between 4-6%, and 2) using your cash for subsequent purchases where credit cards would otherwise be used.
You'd enjoy a net opportunity saving of 16.35% this way (20% credit card APR - 5% Honda APR + 1.35% bank savings interest).
regards,
kyfdx
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The potential gain of doing this at a 3.9 APR car note is something like $500-$700 annually. Over a 5-year car note, the earning would be in the neighborhood of $1500 (earnings diminish over time because one draws monthly from the fund to pay the car note).
Today's APR promos on cars constitute cheap money one can take advantage of even if one had disposable funds.
kyfdx
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Thanks
I have been checking prices in central Mass for a 03 EX-V6, but the best price I've gotten was from Boch Honda in Norwood, which should be a little closer to you. Over the phone, they said that they have been letting them go at invoice, but the salesman also said that they might be able to cut it a little lower if once I come to the showroom. They did have the highest paperwork fee I've seen so far at $200. My other best price (So Far) was Peter's in Nashua, NH at $23,874 + $100 paperwork fee. This has all been preliminary price checking since I am not going to by for a month or two. Good luck.
-J
7% yeild.. you must be the lucky guy...
Assume 7% yield is real... unless it is tax free... otherwise if your tax rate is 33%...
your real earn after tax 4.8%
If finance rate for car loand is really lower that than rate.. otherwise.. After bad experience recently with the market...I think majority people (who have lost so much with the investment) would rather pay full... instead of keeping money in risky investment and always have to cross fingers with market... and pray they not cooking the book...
Dealer will love to have you finance... (assume not 0% apr) b/c the house will gain little % commission...
Honda new car in cash
If you have questions/comments, I can arrange for that discussion to be re-opened.
Otherwise, for those looking to grow their assets incrementally, it won't hurt to consider using cheap cash alternatives for purchases while investing funds where the risks are acceptable to the individual.
As to the 7% yield, this is a "moderately aggressive" investment posture suggested by a Fortune 25 financial services group as of 4/22/03 considering the stock/bond/CD horizon for the coming 12 or so months.
So we situate this post properly, please note that it responds to ilovehonda's original query on, essentially, the pros and cons of car-buying in cash. That he has alternatives with attendant risks was important to know, and that's the whole point of the "hold your cash purchase" posts.
I shopped for a Accord EX V6 w/NAV for about 3 months while I was getting ready to sell my current car. I contacted or visited 7 dealers in the LA/Orange County area.
The absolute BEST price I got was $200 over invoice at Rock Honda in Fontana. One dealer (not to remain nameless - Fladeboe in Lake Forest) had the guts to counter the Rock Honda price with one $1000 HIGHER and then hung up on me when they wanted to argue that I would not get that price. Dealers are unreal sometimes...
So, I picked up my new car yesterday. It is a beautiful vehicle. I think the SoCal market is unusual because we are so car-oriented here that demand is high for new vehicles and the higher trim lines are sought after as well.
I have seen some posts about $30 over invoice, and my experience was that there was no way to find that out here. Maybe in Barstow on the hottest day of the year 10 minutes before closing, but not under normal circumstances.
I've read about all the folks who have gotten invoice and frankly, I have no problem giving a hard working salesperson some kind of profit so that they can eat. I had planned to pay about $200 over invoice for a EX V6 sedan and when I contacted the dealer, he gave me a price a little below that as his best price before I could open my mouth. If he had not treated me with respect in the process, I may have tried to go lower but I was and the deal was completed within an hour. In my opinion, thats the way the car buying process should be, great service and price = great buying experience.
Thanks to Herb Chambers of Boston.
I think I did pretty good.
IS THIS A GOOD PRICE?
WHAT IS THE MAXIMUM TRADE-IN ALLOWANCE? DOES THIS DEPENDS ON DEALER, MODEL, YEAR, ETC?
NEEDS SOME ANSWERS?????
BTW, I'M IN ORANGE COUNTY CALIFORNIA. ANYONE KNOW ANY HONDA DEALER WITH BETTER PRICING ON THIS ACCORD, LET ME KNOW. THANKS GUYS AND GALS!!!!!!
For the model I bought, Consumer Reports indicated that, due to a holdback the dealer receives from the manufacturer at the end of the year, the dealer would make about $700 even if I paid invoice. I paid about $200 under invoice, so the dealer made $500, which I think is fair.
It really depends on the offers, incentives, rebates, etc. for a particular car, but I'd bet that in many cases the invoice price (or even less than that) still gives the dealer a profit.