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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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    kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Member Posts: 1,051
    General rule of thumb, don't lease longer then the warranty. Leasing for 60 month, might as well buy the thing at 60 or 72 months

    If you are paying $500 a month for 60 months you are the one getting ripped off. That is a lot more then a 36 month payment if you are putting $3000 down. You must have a ton of negative equity you are rolling into the lease.
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
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    ladino1ladino1 Member Posts: 6
    What dealer assessories were on this car? Did you pay extra for them? Most dealers in my area will not come off invoice on the Accords plus destination charge and fees and any dealer add on's.
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    gmanandgegmanandge Member Posts: 19
    With a lease, you need to know some things that most dealers don't want to disclose until you are picking up the car. That's when they are actually required to disclose them to you. They are: 1) Rate or money factor of the lease-self explanatory though factors can be confusing sometimes 2) Capitalized cost-this is the selling price of the car (that you will be renting) to the lease company 3) Residual value and residual percentage-you need one to keep them honest about the other 4) MSRP-from the Monroney label-lease companies, BTW, usually allow lease originators to add back any option packages that are included on the Monroney. You need to find out if that is true about the lease and lease company that you are interested in (bad grammar, but you get the idea).

    If a car dealer won't disclose any of these things to you up front, then my advice to you would be to run away from them and find a dealer willing to deal with full disclosure before you sign a contract take delivery of the car. Without these things you will not be able to tell if you got a 'good deal' or not. And by 'good deal' I am assuming that you mean that you leased for the most favorable terms (to you) possible.

    Also.....sales tax is added to the payment in the percent that your state charges. I live in Massachusetts and lease payments are taxed at 5% times the payment. I believe that in New York it depends on the county though because each county can add onto the state sales tax. Car lease contracts are like short term car rental contracts in that respect.
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    ashton_nashton_n Member Posts: 16
    Oh Sorry this is EX-L V6 No NAV, Sedan.
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    kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Member Posts: 1,051
    Also.....sales tax is added to the payment in the percent that your state charges. I live in Massachusetts and lease payments are taxed at 5% times the payment. I believe that in New York it depends on the county though because each county can add onto the state sales tax. Car lease contracts are like short term car rental contracts in that respect.

    This is not how every state operates. Some states charge sales tax on 100% of the purchase price of the vehicle, not just the lease payment portion.
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
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    lamchops830lamchops830 Member Posts: 5
    i live in suffolk county NY and for a lease, here they charge the 8.625% tax on the full purchase price of the car.
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    psyevolutionpsyevolution Member Posts: 26
    i mean i buy the car
    08 exl v6 coup auto
    nav/remote engine starter
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    psyevolutionpsyevolution Member Posts: 26
    exl v6 auto
    navi/ remote engine start
    the best price is OTD
    i am thinking about 30000. what do you think about the price ...
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    We can't know the best OTD price, since we don't know what your taxes are like, fees, etc...

    Start with a price for the car ONLY, then break-down the other items ( Tax, Title, Doc Fee, Accessories, etc ). Only then can we know what kind of deal you are getting.
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    ashton_nashton_n Member Posts: 16
    Ok, Here's another try since my first thread got hijacked and didnt get too much response on the second..

    Is this a good invoice price: 25200 (inclusive destination, doc fee)?? OTD= 27300 (san diego county 7.75% sales tax) Has anyone received any lower prices in southern California for the same car??

    Also can someone tell me how much I should pay for a 8 yr/120k extended warranty?

    Thanks!
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    rv99rv99 Member Posts: 6
    What price did Hollywood of Honda charge you and what was Out the Door price? On what package? Did you take additional options? Thanks
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    kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Member Posts: 1,051
    25.2 including dealer doc fee (I don't know why destination is ever quoted separately, its not like you have an option to pay it or not.) would seem like a great deal to me, since invoice is 26,086.

    I would say $1000 on the warranty is a good price since that is the price it could be had for HERE , but they don't sell in CA right now. No Internet competition probably means higher prices.
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
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    psyevolutionpsyevolution Member Posts: 26
    coup
    exl v6 auto
    navi
    what is best price for it. I mean the OTD.

    i have been given 32000 from two dealers
    new york city
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Without a price breakdown (knowing taxes, fees, accessories) it is impossible to tell. If you have low taxes and no accessories, this is a terrible deal.
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    tommystonestommystones Member Posts: 19
    $24,995 For an EX-L V6?

    Sounds Amazing! Is this a coupe or sedan?
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    viet1viet1 Member Posts: 10
    Its' the OTD price one had to pay for a '08 Accord sedan EXL V6 w/ navi in 12/ 07.
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    psyevolutionpsyevolution Member Posts: 26
    29000 for the car
    tax 8.375%, plus dmv title 400
    no accessoires
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    rpg55rpg55 Member Posts: 3
    just bought 2008 ex-l 6 cyl,-no nav, out the door for 28,147 and got 3 year 0.9 % financing at a dealer in montgomery county MD any comments?
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    jrob262jrob262 Member Posts: 4
    Only add-ons were mud flaps and wheel locks. Added into the price I mentioned. If they don't want to come off of the price, I'd do some internet shopping. As I mentioned Pohanku in NoVA tried hard - even after I had bought with West Broad. Hubest Vestor is in Wilson, NC and they had some sale going on after I bought. You may want to check them. (My base was about $25.5K, and the rest was for destination fee, taxes, DMV and $399 processing fee.) Frankly, it's the end of the month. I'd try to offer 25K for the base and then add on the other stuff. If I can get the car for $26.7, a better negotiater should be able to get it for at most $26K.
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    socalhondasocalhonda Member Posts: 24
    I did not get any options or extended warranties. It came w/ mud flaps and wheel locks, I had no trade in and put down $3000. I got the 2.9% financing and paid $23,000 for 4 cyl EX-L auto, no nav. included destination. doc fee was $55, license $150, registration $60 and 8.25% tax. Took less then 1 hour at dealer.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    $29,000 is exactly $700 over invoice for an EX-L V6 NAVI.

    I think you can do better. Shoot for $27,000 as your goal, and maybe you'll end up below $28,000. Invoice is $28,300, including $670 destination.
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    steelblue314steelblue314 Member Posts: 25
    You can't "lock" your key in a Honda! Or any of the 2007 and later cars.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Sure you can, just not with the key in the ignition. Close your trunk with the key in it, leave your key in the seat and lock the door using the door-mounted power locks.
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    psyevolutionpsyevolution Member Posts: 26
    coup or seden . what is car price before tax , dest, dmv
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    halecphalecp Member Posts: 14
    Well I'm the proud owner of a new Honda Accord Coupe EX 4-cyl, Automatic. 1st Honda ever for me, and I LOVE IT. It will be a transition going from a 9yr old Chevy Cavalier to this, but that was expected considering they really aren't comparable cars by any means.
    I really want to thank you and everyone else in this forum for the information you provide. The buying experiences, different perspectives, lessons learned, negotiating recommendations, etc were EXTREMELY helpful when it came down to negotiating my car with the dealer. It didn't take the dealer very long to realize that this female had done her homework.
    My final numbers looked like this:
    22,200 after destination + $250 OH doc fee + tax @ 6.75% +$25.50 title fee. My out the door was about $24,000. I put $3000 down and got the 3.9% financing. They also threw in a truck tray, and i lucked out a got pin striping for free. The car i ended up buying had to be located at another dealership, and when it arrived on the lot it had pin striping, which my dealer wasn't aware of. :)

    Hopefully the above gets a few "head nods". I purchased my car at Immke Honda in Columbus, OH and would recommend them to anyone! Thanks again!
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Congrats, you should create a CarSpace page here at Edmunds so we can see your new ride!

    Here is a pic of my two Accords from my CarSpace page.

    image
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    steelblue314steelblue314 Member Posts: 25
    I never use the door-mounted locks anyway, key in trunk? Never. The Accord was designed, so that wouldn't happen anywayz.
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    kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Member Posts: 1,051
    If keys were never locked in a car then auto clubs wouldn't offer lockout service. The G35 and other keyless start cars do not allow a car door to lock, or trunk to close when there is a key in the car or in trunk. It just beeps at you.

    When you have not taken a key out of your pocket to drive a car for the last 3 years there is a concern you are going to have a brain fart and lock the keys in. Especially when you have been using the door mounted lock (outside button) to lock the car for those past 3 years.
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
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    mchalmersmchalmers Member Posts: 30
    This is for a sedan. Just trying to convince myself of the Honda over a used Audi A6. I like the fit and finish of the Audi and the all wheel drive but I like the realiability of the Honda.
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    himitdihimitdi Member Posts: 4
    Hello,

    I'm looking at trading in my 2005 Honda Civic on a 2008 Accord LX-P with automatic transmission.

    I have only gotten a straight answer on price from one dealer, but they aren't giving me a fair price for my trade, or I'd probably just buy the car from them. I've been to a few other dealers, and they act eager to sell me a car, but they won't tell me what they can do.

    MSRP is $22,795 after delivery

    the dealer quoted me at $20,619, without giving me any greif.

    Invoice according to edmunds is $20,085, and I've read on here that some dealers will sell an accord for about $750 behind invoice.

    I'd like to pay no more than 19,320 dollars for the car, but I don't know if that's realistic. Should I continue to haggle with the dealers, or just wait until next year?

    If your curious, my trade is a 2005 Civic HX with almost 90,000 miles on it. I think it's worth between 7500 and 8000 bucks, they offered me $5,500 for it, I owe 6000. You can't buy a 10 year old civic with under 100,000 miles for 5,500 right now.

    The deal I'd like to land is this

    19320
    -2000 trade equity
    -1000 cash down
    --------
    16320 total financed

    60 months @ 3.9 = 299.82 a month

    I always pay tax and registration out of pocket at delivery. If the dealer offers me $7500 for my trade, I'd cough up the extra 500 bucks. Otherwise it really isn't worth it to me.

    Thanks in advance for your advice!
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    steelblue314steelblue314 Member Posts: 25
    I'd like a free peanut butter & jelly sandwich every now and then, doesn't mean it's going to happen! :(
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    psyevolutionpsyevolution Member Posts: 26
    08 accord coup exl 4v auto/navi
    car price 26690+ tax 0.8375+dmv =29325

    08 accord coup exl 6v auto/navi
    car price 28715+tax 0.8375+dmv=31519

    i am thinking which one i should get? and what the best price i should talk..?
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    If the 4-cylinder is peppy enough for you, I'd go that route. The V6 owners have been sporadically reporting problems with the VCM system on the 2008 Accord VCM board.

    That being said, the invoice on the car including destination is $26,176 according to Edmunds, so unless the price you are giving us ($26,690) includes some other fees or accessories, that number is much too high. You should be able to get this car for under invoice. I'd counter with $25,100 and see where they go. We're at the end of the model year, this car shouldn't cost more than $26,000 or so; many have gotten Accords for less.

    The V6 NAVI invoice is $28,300, so $28,000 would be my target price, there.
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    carlosmeadecarlosmeade Member Posts: 1
    ??? - Wow- You're dreaming....

    Unless you're thinking the dealer HAS to lose money to sell you a car.... Sounds like you want them to sell you a car $750 behind invoice?

    And give you OVER trade value for yours....?

    Don't forget they have overhead to pay for... and need profit to do that!

    ZZZZZZzzzzzzz.... Sorry go back to sleep... I didn't mean to wake you up from your dream??? :surprise:
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    And if you think invoice is the break-even point for the dealer on new Hondas, keep on dreaming yourself! ;)
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    kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Member Posts: 1,051
    My latest offer, I don't know if I am going to get better. The $695 on accessories has come down from $835. Quote: "Premium Window tint with lifetime guarantee, Wheel Locks, Splash Guards, and a Fantastic Trunk Tray"

    Sale price:26590
    Accessories:695
    Acq Fee:595
    DOC Fee: 349
    License Fee:482.08
    State Misc Fee:6.5
    Tire Disp Fee:5
    Total:27880
    Term:36
    Rate:.00186
    Vehicle MSRP:28695
    Residual Factor:58%
    Residual Value:16643.10
    Due at signing:1269.32
    Monthly Base:394.95
    Tax 8.05%:31.79
    Month Total Payment: $426.74

    I was told if I buy this month invoice + 250, but this looks like invoice + 500.
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
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    skwskw Member Posts: 28
    Hello all, just doing some research here but can't find a definitive answer on a possible deal. We're just looking for a base LX model w/ manual tranny, would prefer the 190 hp EX but that's another story. We visited 3 dealers in the Boston area. Boch said w/ $1,000 dwn they can get us right around $200/mo w/ tax & a sale price of $18,800, 12k/yr & 36months. My wife is 8 mos pregnant and it was hot that day so we said we'll return. Next was Atamian Honda we only went all the way up there to see the Costco price but they said they could do better face to face. They only had the LX w/ an automatic tranny and best they could do was $1250 dwn to pay lic, reg, acq fee, doc fee, 1st pymt, & insp sticker and a payment of $237/mo. Last was Herb Chambers in Boston. Car was LX manual tranny, $18,400 for the price, $1,237 dwn to cover all fees & 1st pymt then $229/mo.

    So basically at all 3 I can't remember what the money factors were but I did make sure that the initial payment covered all fees and the monthly pymt included tax (5% here in Mass), and all 3 were 12k miles/yr and a 36month term. W/ that in mind is it possible to get down to $180-$200/mo w/ the same down or should I take the $229 and call it a day? Being the end of the month do you think we can slide into an EX I4 manual for the low $200's? Thanks!
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    alamocityalamocity Member Posts: 680
    Gee, that response sounds like someone else who is well known on these boards, by chance do you work at his dealership? :D
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The doc fee is pure $ for the dealership, so just include that in the price of the car. Many states limit how much this can be to a much lower amount. What is the Acq fee?

    On the whole, your price sounds too high, and the dealer too shady. I wouldn't give the deal a green light.

    Besides, if you show you WILL walk away, you'll hold all the power.
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    kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Member Posts: 1,051
    What is the Acq fee?

    The mandatory Honda lease acquisition fee.
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
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    tracemillertracemiller Member Posts: 36
    I got a new 08 Accord LX-P automatic for $1100 below invoice so sure, why can't he get it for $750 below invoice. The stated invoice isn't always what the dealer brought the car for. If it was, then how could so many people in this forum got a car for way below invoice. I've help 4 people get the LX-P for $1100 below invoice. There would be no way for dealers to sell it that low if they were losing money. Therefore, they must be making some money and the invoice price is not their break-even price.

    When I wanted to go buy the car for that low, people were saying I was dreaming too. Well, my dream came true than.
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    mazda6dudemazda6dude Member Posts: 283
    If you get the LX-P for around $21.5-$22K out the door, buy it. Don't hestiate, its a good deal and with 3.9% financing you can't go wrong.
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    gmanandgegmanandge Member Posts: 19
    Some things about this deal:
    1) The real selling price appears to be kind of high. The selling price of my 2008 Accord EX two weeks ago was $2945 less than MSRP and that included the dreaded 'doc fee'. This deal is $2105 less than MSRP plus the doc fee. That puts the selling price at $1756 less than MSRP. There may not be an additional $1200 worth of water left in this deal but I have to believe that if I could negotiate that much more off of MSRP, then you should be able to also. Realize as well that the doc fee is pure adp or 'additional dealer profit' and nothing more. These nice people at the dealership are trained professionals in the art of negotiation and practice a lot at not giving up things like 'doc fees' readily. They say things like: 'Even I have to pay it when I buy a car.' or 'My mother had to pay it.' Just tell them that it is ok-no problem-that you just want it included in the negotiated price as opposed to added on as a surprise. They might not want to do it but if you look a little harder, then you will find some more nice people at another Honda dealership who will. It took me eight e-mails and three dealers before I found one. I really do think that you can do better. Remember also that when you are leasing short term (36 months or less) the effect of any reduction in cap cost is magnified in the payment. For example, for every $1000 you are able to negotiate off of the selling price your payment is reduced by almost $30 per month in depreciation ($27.77 to be exact). That is 7% of the payment that they quoted to you. Is that worth it? To save 7%?
    2) It is in your best interest to negotiate a selling price or 'capitalized cost' from the invoice and not from MSRP. 3) Do you really want the accessories? Do you think that the price of the accessories is reasonable? I think wheel locks are about $40 and the molded mudflaps less than $100. I don't know about the other stuff but even $695 seems a little high. Maybe you should think about adding them later if they are stuck on that stuff as a negotiating point. I added molded mudflaps to my Accord myself. They took about 20 minutes to put on and I bought them at the local Honda garage for $64+tax. The Honda dealer from whom I bought my car threw in the wheel locks, btw, at the aforementioned $21550.
    4) Selling price (cap cost) - Residual value = Total Lease Depreciation. To figure out the monthly depreciation, simply divide by the term; in your case 36 months. Sometimes the acquisition fee is added to the selling price, though, and it appears to be the case in this deal. Even still, you are depreciating nearly $14000 over the 36 month term. That sounds like a lot to me. Is the residual percentage really 58? Is this a high mileage lease? Is it normal for an Accord to depreciate almost in half in 36 months (42%)? I would ask them to check the residual percent again to make sure that it wasn't for 42 months or something.
    5) Notice that your sales tax amount that is added to the payment is exactly 8.05% times the payment. Your sales tax is calculated on the payment just like a short term rental car contract. Does your state have excise tax also and how does that get paid if it exists?
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    errontoerronto Member Posts: 1
    This is my first time buying a new car and I just want to make sure I'm getting a good deal. The best price quote I got for the 08 accord coupe V6 was $26,001 which includes the destination fee. With taxes and fees added the out the door price is $27,253.
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    psyevolutionpsyevolution Member Posts: 26
    it has navi yet...
    exl v6 ?
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    kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Member Posts: 1,051
    1. I am very well versed in the ins and the outs of car buying and leasing. I think this dealer has given up and is getting angry the I am pushing for a better deal. I was hoping to buy from them since they are between home and work, but it looks like I'll probably go to the Tempe dealer which is being a lot better about dealer add-ons but is a little higher over invoice.

    2. I am negotiating the selling price of the car. He has offered to sell it to me at $250 over invoice, but and I mean a big BUT: Straight from his latest email: I pulled an invoice on a v6 exl accord for you. I would be happy to share the invoice on the car you actually buy. Invoice is what the dealer pays for the car. Invoice includes Destination and handling charges totaling $635(this fee has been recently increased $35). Invoice also includes Honda dealer advertising group fee of $254.16. These fees are fees that every Honda dealer pays when they receive a car! If you buy a car that's been deliver in the last month or so the invoice will reflect the $35 increase. If its before that I will gladly reduce the price of the car by $35. What ever the invoice reads it will be that plus $250. This invoice reads $26305.13...that includes the before mentioned fees, but not the $35 adjustment. So the price I quoted you was $26305+35+250=26590. That is the number I will continue to use.

    #3. I did not ask for the add-ons. It is what they add to every car and he will not negotiate them lower then $595. From the dealer: For $595 you get Premium Window tint with lifetime guarantee, Wheel Locks, Splash Guards, and a Fantastic Trunk Tray($125)! All of them protect your purchase! We can take out the trunk tray if you want, but the other three are bolted or glued onto the car!

    #4 I can figure out a lease in my sleep now I've been doing it so much. Yes the residual is 58% for a sedan at this time, and that is for 12,000 a year. I have confirmed this number through many sources. Luckily the MF dropped from .0186 to .00129 yesterday.

    #5 the tax calculation is correct. we don't have an excise tax, but we do have yearly vehicle license tax that is around $450 the first year.
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
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    psyevolutionpsyevolution Member Posts: 26
    i am thinking to buy civic si with nav
    i got a quote 22000 before tax and dmv . the otd will be 26000
    but the rate is very high for me. it is 7.9%
    the accord i have 3.9% for exl or exl v6 both with navi

    i really dont know how to pick now...
    and comparing si with accord exl coup . which one will be better.
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    gmanandgegmanandge Member Posts: 19
    Invoice is a relative term. Sometimes it has very little to do with the actual amount that a car dealer pays for the car. This is precisely the reason that you have probably seen and heard of customers paying far less than the actual invoice and translates into you having the opportunity to negotiate a selling price that is less than invoice (in some cases, a lot less). Call them 'step-stair' or 'volume objectives' or 'dealer cash' programs they all have the same effect: they change the price that the dealer has paid for their inventory and, as a consequence (effectively) they change the invoice (Also: holdback, floor plan assistance, and marketing incentives, etc. also contribute to the changing of the price that the dealer paid). All of that stuff, though, is triggered by sales. They have to actually sell a car (or lease) to someone in order earn the dealer cash, the holdback, etc.....Timing, however, is everything when it comes to these programs and perhaps the timing right this minute is not so great in your market area for you to negotiate a better price. In that case wait if you can until the terms favor you more. Or maybe your market is just a price firm market. Buy outside your market then. Establish the amount that it becomes reasonable for you to travel to another market. For me it was $300. I would drive or travel 100 miles for $300 but not less than that.

    Also, this dealer sounds unreasonable. All of those accessories that you wrote about are added to the car by them. If they refuse to sell you a car without that stuff (which they can very easily) and you don't want it, then you might want to look elsewhere. If they are unreasonable now, at the absolute best time of the relationship between retailer and consumer, then chances are that they are going to be unreasonable at the 'less-than-best' times, when the product has failed or has created stress because you need repairs. Remember, in any negotiation, both buyer and seller must feel that the endgame benefits both parties (win/win) or they should stop negotiating.

    BTW, there are all kinds of other reasons that dealers 'drop their pants' for a sale. Ego, dealer/sales manager trips to Africa or the super bowl, referral business, targeted sales to key consumers......the list is endless. Find a dealer who wants your business more than these folks and then use them to get what you want from this dealer if that's what you really want or find another dealer and lease from them for a lower selling price. Either way you come out ahead of where you are now.
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    mevander1mevander1 Member Posts: 43
    carlosmeade, at 750 under invoice the dealer is still making money. First there are rebates from Honda, 2nd are incentives, 3rd there is something called dealer hold back on every car. Don't you do your homework?
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    mdominikmdominik Member Posts: 10
    kinpcgeek - your insights are very helpful, thank you.

    Re: current offers lease money factors.

    Can you or anyone confirm the money factor being used in this current Honda nationwide web site offer?

    [2008 Accord Sedan LX 4-Cyl Featured Special Lease. $219.00 per month for 36 months. $2,599.00 total due at signing.] Of course, more details are on the Honda web site.

    Yesterday I was quoted 0.00186 MF for an LX-P, and I see your note that the MF is 0.00129 now for the EX-L offer.

    I really want an LX-P - but there is no specific offer for that trim. The question I will face to negotiate: should I expect the dealer (Phila area) to offer the same MF of 0.00129 for the LX-P?
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