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If you are paying $500 a month for 60 months you are the one getting ripped off. That is a lot more then a 36 month payment if you are putting $3000 down. You must have a ton of negative equity you are rolling into the lease.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
If a car dealer won't disclose any of these things to you up front, then my advice to you would be to run away from them and find a dealer willing to deal with full disclosure before you sign a contract take delivery of the car. Without these things you will not be able to tell if you got a 'good deal' or not. And by 'good deal' I am assuming that you mean that you leased for the most favorable terms (to you) possible.
Also.....sales tax is added to the payment in the percent that your state charges. I live in Massachusetts and lease payments are taxed at 5% times the payment. I believe that in New York it depends on the county though because each county can add onto the state sales tax. Car lease contracts are like short term car rental contracts in that respect.
This is not how every state operates. Some states charge sales tax on 100% of the purchase price of the vehicle, not just the lease payment portion.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
08 exl v6 coup auto
nav/remote engine starter
navi/ remote engine start
the best price is OTD
i am thinking about 30000. what do you think about the price ...
Start with a price for the car ONLY, then break-down the other items ( Tax, Title, Doc Fee, Accessories, etc ). Only then can we know what kind of deal you are getting.
Is this a good invoice price: 25200 (inclusive destination, doc fee)?? OTD= 27300 (san diego county 7.75% sales tax) Has anyone received any lower prices in southern California for the same car??
Also can someone tell me how much I should pay for a 8 yr/120k extended warranty?
Thanks!
I would say $1000 on the warranty is a good price since that is the price it could be had for HERE , but they don't sell in CA right now. No Internet competition probably means higher prices.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
exl v6 auto
navi
what is best price for it. I mean the OTD.
i have been given 32000 from two dealers
new york city
Sounds Amazing! Is this a coupe or sedan?
tax 8.375%, plus dmv title 400
no accessoires
I think you can do better. Shoot for $27,000 as your goal, and maybe you'll end up below $28,000. Invoice is $28,300, including $670 destination.
I really want to thank you and everyone else in this forum for the information you provide. The buying experiences, different perspectives, lessons learned, negotiating recommendations, etc were EXTREMELY helpful when it came down to negotiating my car with the dealer. It didn't take the dealer very long to realize that this female had done her homework.
My final numbers looked like this:
22,200 after destination + $250 OH doc fee + tax @ 6.75% +$25.50 title fee. My out the door was about $24,000. I put $3000 down and got the 3.9% financing. They also threw in a truck tray, and i lucked out a got pin striping for free. The car i ended up buying had to be located at another dealership, and when it arrived on the lot it had pin striping, which my dealer wasn't aware of.
Hopefully the above gets a few "head nods". I purchased my car at Immke Honda in Columbus, OH and would recommend them to anyone! Thanks again!
Here is a pic of my two Accords from my CarSpace page.
When you have not taken a key out of your pocket to drive a car for the last 3 years there is a concern you are going to have a brain fart and lock the keys in. Especially when you have been using the door mounted lock (outside button) to lock the car for those past 3 years.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
I'm looking at trading in my 2005 Honda Civic on a 2008 Accord LX-P with automatic transmission.
I have only gotten a straight answer on price from one dealer, but they aren't giving me a fair price for my trade, or I'd probably just buy the car from them. I've been to a few other dealers, and they act eager to sell me a car, but they won't tell me what they can do.
MSRP is $22,795 after delivery
the dealer quoted me at $20,619, without giving me any greif.
Invoice according to edmunds is $20,085, and I've read on here that some dealers will sell an accord for about $750 behind invoice.
I'd like to pay no more than 19,320 dollars for the car, but I don't know if that's realistic. Should I continue to haggle with the dealers, or just wait until next year?
If your curious, my trade is a 2005 Civic HX with almost 90,000 miles on it. I think it's worth between 7500 and 8000 bucks, they offered me $5,500 for it, I owe 6000. You can't buy a 10 year old civic with under 100,000 miles for 5,500 right now.
The deal I'd like to land is this
19320
-2000 trade equity
-1000 cash down
--------
16320 total financed
60 months @ 3.9 = 299.82 a month
I always pay tax and registration out of pocket at delivery. If the dealer offers me $7500 for my trade, I'd cough up the extra 500 bucks. Otherwise it really isn't worth it to me.
Thanks in advance for your advice!
car price 26690+ tax 0.8375+dmv =29325
08 accord coup exl 6v auto/navi
car price 28715+tax 0.8375+dmv=31519
i am thinking which one i should get? and what the best price i should talk..?
That being said, the invoice on the car including destination is $26,176 according to Edmunds, so unless the price you are giving us ($26,690) includes some other fees or accessories, that number is much too high. You should be able to get this car for under invoice. I'd counter with $25,100 and see where they go. We're at the end of the model year, this car shouldn't cost more than $26,000 or so; many have gotten Accords for less.
The V6 NAVI invoice is $28,300, so $28,000 would be my target price, there.
Unless you're thinking the dealer HAS to lose money to sell you a car.... Sounds like you want them to sell you a car $750 behind invoice?
And give you OVER trade value for yours....?
Don't forget they have overhead to pay for... and need profit to do that!
ZZZZZZzzzzzzz.... Sorry go back to sleep... I didn't mean to wake you up from your dream??? :surprise:
Sale price:26590
Accessories:695
Acq Fee:595
DOC Fee: 349
License Fee:482.08
State Misc Fee:6.5
Tire Disp Fee:5
Total:27880
Term:36
Rate:.00186
Vehicle MSRP:28695
Residual Factor:58%
Residual Value:16643.10
Due at signing:1269.32
Monthly Base:394.95
Tax 8.05%:31.79
Month Total Payment: $426.74
I was told if I buy this month invoice + 250, but this looks like invoice + 500.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
So basically at all 3 I can't remember what the money factors were but I did make sure that the initial payment covered all fees and the monthly pymt included tax (5% here in Mass), and all 3 were 12k miles/yr and a 36month term. W/ that in mind is it possible to get down to $180-$200/mo w/ the same down or should I take the $229 and call it a day? Being the end of the month do you think we can slide into an EX I4 manual for the low $200's? Thanks!
On the whole, your price sounds too high, and the dealer too shady. I wouldn't give the deal a green light.
Besides, if you show you WILL walk away, you'll hold all the power.
The mandatory Honda lease acquisition fee.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
When I wanted to go buy the car for that low, people were saying I was dreaming too. Well, my dream came true than.
1) The real selling price appears to be kind of high. The selling price of my 2008 Accord EX two weeks ago was $2945 less than MSRP and that included the dreaded 'doc fee'. This deal is $2105 less than MSRP plus the doc fee. That puts the selling price at $1756 less than MSRP. There may not be an additional $1200 worth of water left in this deal but I have to believe that if I could negotiate that much more off of MSRP, then you should be able to also. Realize as well that the doc fee is pure adp or 'additional dealer profit' and nothing more. These nice people at the dealership are trained professionals in the art of negotiation and practice a lot at not giving up things like 'doc fees' readily. They say things like: 'Even I have to pay it when I buy a car.' or 'My mother had to pay it.' Just tell them that it is ok-no problem-that you just want it included in the negotiated price as opposed to added on as a surprise. They might not want to do it but if you look a little harder, then you will find some more nice people at another Honda dealership who will. It took me eight e-mails and three dealers before I found one. I really do think that you can do better. Remember also that when you are leasing short term (36 months or less) the effect of any reduction in cap cost is magnified in the payment. For example, for every $1000 you are able to negotiate off of the selling price your payment is reduced by almost $30 per month in depreciation ($27.77 to be exact). That is 7% of the payment that they quoted to you. Is that worth it? To save 7%?
2) It is in your best interest to negotiate a selling price or 'capitalized cost' from the invoice and not from MSRP. 3) Do you really want the accessories? Do you think that the price of the accessories is reasonable? I think wheel locks are about $40 and the molded mudflaps less than $100. I don't know about the other stuff but even $695 seems a little high. Maybe you should think about adding them later if they are stuck on that stuff as a negotiating point. I added molded mudflaps to my Accord myself. They took about 20 minutes to put on and I bought them at the local Honda garage for $64+tax. The Honda dealer from whom I bought my car threw in the wheel locks, btw, at the aforementioned $21550.
4) Selling price (cap cost) - Residual value = Total Lease Depreciation. To figure out the monthly depreciation, simply divide by the term; in your case 36 months. Sometimes the acquisition fee is added to the selling price, though, and it appears to be the case in this deal. Even still, you are depreciating nearly $14000 over the 36 month term. That sounds like a lot to me. Is the residual percentage really 58? Is this a high mileage lease? Is it normal for an Accord to depreciate almost in half in 36 months (42%)? I would ask them to check the residual percent again to make sure that it wasn't for 42 months or something.
5) Notice that your sales tax amount that is added to the payment is exactly 8.05% times the payment. Your sales tax is calculated on the payment just like a short term rental car contract. Does your state have excise tax also and how does that get paid if it exists?
exl v6 ?
2. I am negotiating the selling price of the car. He has offered to sell it to me at $250 over invoice, but and I mean a big BUT: Straight from his latest email: I pulled an invoice on a v6 exl accord for you. I would be happy to share the invoice on the car you actually buy. Invoice is what the dealer pays for the car. Invoice includes Destination and handling charges totaling $635(this fee has been recently increased $35). Invoice also includes Honda dealer advertising group fee of $254.16. These fees are fees that every Honda dealer pays when they receive a car! If you buy a car that's been deliver in the last month or so the invoice will reflect the $35 increase. If its before that I will gladly reduce the price of the car by $35. What ever the invoice reads it will be that plus $250. This invoice reads $26305.13...that includes the before mentioned fees, but not the $35 adjustment. So the price I quoted you was $26305+35+250=26590. That is the number I will continue to use.
#3. I did not ask for the add-ons. It is what they add to every car and he will not negotiate them lower then $595. From the dealer: For $595 you get Premium Window tint with lifetime guarantee, Wheel Locks, Splash Guards, and a Fantastic Trunk Tray($125)! All of them protect your purchase! We can take out the trunk tray if you want, but the other three are bolted or glued onto the car!
#4 I can figure out a lease in my sleep now I've been doing it so much. Yes the residual is 58% for a sedan at this time, and that is for 12,000 a year. I have confirmed this number through many sources. Luckily the MF dropped from .0186 to .00129 yesterday.
#5 the tax calculation is correct. we don't have an excise tax, but we do have yearly vehicle license tax that is around $450 the first year.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
i got a quote 22000 before tax and dmv . the otd will be 26000
but the rate is very high for me. it is 7.9%
the accord i have 3.9% for exl or exl v6 both with navi
i really dont know how to pick now...
and comparing si with accord exl coup . which one will be better.
Also, this dealer sounds unreasonable. All of those accessories that you wrote about are added to the car by them. If they refuse to sell you a car without that stuff (which they can very easily) and you don't want it, then you might want to look elsewhere. If they are unreasonable now, at the absolute best time of the relationship between retailer and consumer, then chances are that they are going to be unreasonable at the 'less-than-best' times, when the product has failed or has created stress because you need repairs. Remember, in any negotiation, both buyer and seller must feel that the endgame benefits both parties (win/win) or they should stop negotiating.
BTW, there are all kinds of other reasons that dealers 'drop their pants' for a sale. Ego, dealer/sales manager trips to Africa or the super bowl, referral business, targeted sales to key consumers......the list is endless. Find a dealer who wants your business more than these folks and then use them to get what you want from this dealer if that's what you really want or find another dealer and lease from them for a lower selling price. Either way you come out ahead of where you are now.
Re: current offers lease money factors.
Can you or anyone confirm the money factor being used in this current Honda nationwide web site offer?
[2008 Accord Sedan LX 4-Cyl Featured Special Lease. $219.00 per month for 36 months. $2,599.00 total due at signing.] Of course, more details are on the Honda web site.
Yesterday I was quoted 0.00186 MF for an LX-P, and I see your note that the MF is 0.00129 now for the EX-L offer.
I really want an LX-P - but there is no specific offer for that trim. The question I will face to negotiate: should I expect the dealer (Phila area) to offer the same MF of 0.00129 for the LX-P?