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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • teuteuteuteu Posts: 2
    TTL in my area is ~1,700. So 22,500-20,569=~2,000. The difference between 2,000 and 1,700 is 300 so its about 300 in "fees" they are charging.

    Price from truecar is 20,069. I did receive this price but because im not using honda financing, my price is 20,569 (add'l 500).
  • Hi,
    I want to buy an Accord 2013 EX in Modern steel metalic - grey interior -V4 auto cvt - no other options.
    I want to email some dealers in the area but need help composing one.

    I understand the invoice price is $24,037, fees should be, Doc: $75, Tire: $12.50, Tax: 8.875, plate transfer: $75.
    I would also be financing at the advertised 0.9. No trade in.

    What else do i need to know to avoid getting "taken"?

    Can someone link me to, or quickly write a sentence i can email out? or what to write back if they want to talk on phone or have me come in?

    Thanks!
    Donna.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    edited August 2013
    Off the top of my head i'm running out the door. I'll readjust posting later for you.

    Start sending out your emails and calls next week.

    read posts 30477,30480,30550,30558. last post ending in 58 read it and apply it to every dealership you call/ email.

    a simply call or email is a perfect way to break the ice.

    Example

    I am looking to buy a 2013 EX sedan model Accord in modern steel w grey interior with no other options. I would be willing to finance the car thru honda if you have the 500 dollar flex cash . Does your dealership have flex cash this month.? I would be willing to by this vehicle today for 1500 below your dealers invoice plus flex cash if your dealership has . I will consider any reasonable offer closest to my price. But i buy today for 1500 below. i have contacted 20 dealerships and will make my best deal closest to my house at the end of the month.

    anything along these lines is a starter. Send out this message next week. Your calls to the internet managers will say the same thing..

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • I'm near Cleveland and getting this lease offer for a 2013 Accord EX-L 4 cylinder:

    36 months, 12000 miles per year, $650 at signing. $348.39/mo. Residual is $16407.87

    Thanks for any suggestions!
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    go to Accord leasing forum for your answer.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • Okay, so I went to a dealership for a 2nd test drive on the EXL V6 and we got down to pricing. I told him I wanted $1500 under invoice + flex cash and they basically laughed in my face. Granted, this dealership only had 1 more V6 in stock, but still...

    So, I've taken Brian's advice and sent e-mails to a few dealerships with that same pricing, so we'll see what they say. This is in Austin, TX.

    I don't see much pricing for the V6 in here, so does anyone have any input on this?
    Thanks.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    edited August 2013
    Supply and Demand. dealer does not need to sell you this car.. He knows with only 2 V-6 models he will get closer to his price. make dealership give you his bottom line and hold out to the end of the month. Contact more dealerships. thats all you could do right know.
    At the end of the month adjust your asking price to buy if your comfortable with the price. If not wait til Sept. Check dealerships inventory to see who has more stock.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 165
    Your lease terms are based on the residual, money factor (currently .00075) and capitalized cost of the car which includes the selling price/doc fees and any other costs you put into the lease such as taxes, lease inception fees, DMV fees, etc. I'm guessing your due at signing includes the first month payment and DMV fees, and your monthly payment includes sales tax. If so, you are paying around invoice for the car.
    If you come back for more advice, please provide all the particulars.
  • Thanks Brian. I knew going into this particular place that they keep their prices high, I suppose because they can, but it was a shot in the dark. I just used them to test drive the cars, so at least they were good for something.

    I'm doing both of those things you suggested... more dealerships with higher inventory and waiting til next week.

    Here's another question. September rolls around and I can't get them down to the price I want. When do the '14 models start dropping in price?
  • I personally thinks its high. Im in the Cincinnati area and I' m only paying $379 per month on a EXL V-6. I put no money down and took about a $500 burn on my trade in. I also had a spoiler put on at a cost of $380(included in the monthly price). I think you could do way better. I bought my back in July at about $1150 under invoice so there is definitely a better deal out there.
  • racinwtih8 -- who did you end up buying from in Cinci? I'm trying to find out which dealer is most likely to work a deal.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    edited August 2013
    2014's

    End of Dec. for invoice price maybe a couple hundred under.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • Joe Morgan Honda just between Dayton and Cincinnati. They were the only one in the area that had the color I wanted. Had visited a few other dealerships and did some online shopping with several within a hundred miles or so. The biggest question was the trade. Had a $400 disposal fee anyway so the $500 burn was doable since they were offering almost $750 more than the other area dealers. Once I got to the dealership including the trade evaluation,I was in and out in about 1.5 hrs. to 2hrs. I think I probably left a couple hundred on the table. I think the flex money had just came out and they probably used that to off set the trade. With no trade and a month later there is a better deal for you.
  • oldroveroldrover Posts: 3
    edited August 2013
    I've been reading for a couple of weeks and am ready to dive in.
    This will be my first new car purchase.
    I am in MD. Also, in the military.
    First, a few questions:
    1. Honda website lists $500 military appreciation when financing through Honda. Would this be in addition to flex cash?
    2. If I pay cash for vehicle, there are no incentives?
    3. If I get loan, can I pay it off immediately and save interest charges?
    4. Is color preference a part of the negotiations? Or, do I just find the lowest priced dealer and choose from their availability? (FYI, my preference is red)
    5. From posts here my target price should be about $1000 under invoice ($23,247). So, should my target be: $23,247-$1000 discount-$500 flex cash-$500 military=$21,247? Does the target price include destination charge?
    6. So, how is this? "I am willing to buy 2013 Accord EX today for $22,247 not including any incentives."

    Thanks in advance for your help!
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    Hi Oldrover,

    First off welcome and thankyou for your service to this country. You are a great American God bless you and your family.

    Here is some feedback on your questions

    1- You are entitled to both incentives. If dealership has flex cash to offer some dealerships dont have it. . The way i read it your military rebate of 500 is applied as a down payment on said vehicle.

    2- Correct

    3- Yes within 7 to 10 days on a loan payoff.

    4- Negotiate to get your color... if you find a good priced deal but color choice is not 1st option consider it.

    5- Negotiate with all dealerships with dest/charge included so there is no mis-understanding on price.

    $24,037 is invoice price w dest/ charge.. Minus 1000 off that which would be your starting target price to buy $23,037 . You then are entitled to the 500 military dealer will add to sale as a down payment plus another 500 flex cash for a final sale price. Taxes, doc fee, and dmv charges are applied onto agreed sale price.

    Maryland dealership are selling lower than 1000 below invoice price. read thru board and call those dealerships with a lower target price to buy.

    If you need help were here for you.

    Stay safe my friend.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • miker25miker25 Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I am trying to negotiate the best possible deal on a two car purchase first a 2013 Honda Accord LX and then a trade-up of my 2011 Odyssey EX-L RES to a 2014 Odyssey Touring Elite.

    I've been offered invoice on both the accord and odyssey and $23k on my trade-in. I am in Syracuse, NY so there are about 4-5 Honda dealers with an hour that I would like to milk for the best possible deal.

    Based on this thread it sounds like under invoice is very possible with the '13 accord, any thoughts on how to use the two car deal to get the best possible deal?

    I plan to call and possibly visit as many of the dealers tomorrow to get trade-in value dealt with.

    Thanks!
  • I'm trying to purchase a 2013 EX Sedan with the CVT in Los Angeles, CA. My target is $1k under invoice but I'm having a very difficult time reaching this number. It seems like most dealers are willing to only offer the invoice price minus $500 (presumably taking the Honda flex cash off the table). The best price I've been offered is $23300 with $500 flex cash still available. Would this be a reasonable price for my area? Should I expect dealers to drop another $500 by the end of the month? I notice that there seems to be limited stock of the EX in my area so that might be why the dealers are reluctant to reduce their prices.
  • plagwateplagwate Posts: 24
    I checked through last year's posts and didn't come across anything definitive so let me put this out there for feedback:

    I'm looking to purchase a 2014 EX-L V-6 by the end of the year. Historically, has Honda offered any sort of incentives during the holidays? Perhaps low APR or cash back allowances? I seem to recall a Honda commercial with the animated "Mr. Opportunity" around that time. Was that even for the Accord? Hoping someone has a better memory than me on this.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    edited August 2013
    Brian,

    I started emailing a few internet/sales managers today and so far the quoted price is about $1000 below invoice. I understand the end of the month is still a few days away but how will I able to strike a deal for say $1500 below invoice before labor day?

    I will provide the names and price quotes of some of the dealerships later on today or tomorrow.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    edited August 2013
    Blue
    Your looking for a certain price to buy your in no rush. You have the leverage. The real negotiations starts Friday and ends Sat. 31. Make more calls and send out emails by thurs. after dealerships are contacted and they call you back or email you back let them know there offer needs to be a xxx for the sale today. Pit one dealer against the next. Tell dealerships closest to you your considering buying in Maryland cause there at over 1500 below.. let M.A, dealers know you would prefer to buy by them if there willing to meet your price and match the out of state and high volume dealerships.

    i have no problem starting early with negotiations and pricing. On Friday and Sat. you will have the dealerships full attention you will find out who wants to earn your business and what the area pricing is gonna be

    Dealerships that are at 1000 below today will sell cheaper by Sat. This is a cat and mouse game,,,, there hoping you take the early bite.

    Do not post dealerships names on here til you make your deal. I do not need them.. My cousin wants a lexus truck so on Friday/ Sat i will be buying that truck for him.

    Keep me posted

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    edited August 2013
    Thanks for the quick response, Brian.

    I will be out of town labor day weekend, so I am hoping that I can negotiate a deal via e-mail for at least $1500 below invoice by Friday. I will be back into town the following Monday.

    There are a few dealers who did not want to budge on price, but I am still waiting for a few more quotes.

    I will use some of the tactics you have outlined, and let you know how things work out.

    I could not have imagined buying a car without advice from this forum.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    edited August 2013
    You have nothing to lose. Any deal you make while away should be secured with a Refundable credit card deposit. If selling dealership insists you need to pick up car an sign paperwork by the 31th have dealership fax over to you the buyers order/ sign it/ let them sign it then leave a deposit and your done til pick up when you get home.

    One other note if your asking price to buy is not met you could either consider taking a few dollars less or roll the dice til next month making your best deal at the end of Sept and the 3rd quarters end for car companies.

    I know i've said this over and over. After Sept going into Oct if your model is limited on dealers lots the leverage is on the dealers side. We are seeing this in Aug on certain models. Every dealers mind set is i have 4 Exl's on my lot and mr blue wants 1500 below but dealer knows that the last 4 model exl's could easily sell thru that month to any walk in for up to 1000 below invoice price.. He does not care.. Unless one of them is a funky color that has been sitting for awhile.

    I still say 1300 below invoice and getting flex cash on top is a great deal in M.a............... Unless you would consider going to Maryland they have some of the best pricing in the country right know.

    i have been helping them in the CRV forum and pricing in Maryland on the CRV has been close to 1500 below invoice plus 500 dollar incentives for

    loyalty/ flex cash/ Conquest.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    Sometime last month, I was close to making a deal with a dealership and I did inquire about leaving a deposit. The internet sales rep was nice enough to inform me that the deposit was non-refundable. I did not end up buying from that dealership. Hence if it comes down to that, I will make sure I have a faxed sales/purchase order before putting down a deposit.

    You are correct about inventory on dealer lots. 2013 EX-L models in my color are already getting hard to find. There are quite a few LX and EX models on some dealer lots.

    My only worry about buying out of state is the drive, adding miles on my new car and figuring out paying taxes once I try to register the car in MA. To be honest, I'd rather save myself that headache and buy local.

    I will be following up with a few dealerships tomorrow on pricing and hopefully get down to business soon. I know you did not want me to mention any dealerships yet but Herb Chambers Boston and Boch Honda did not want to budge on price at all. They did not even have flex cash available. They were at $1000 below invoice.

    Do you know what type of deals MA residents are getting on the EX-L so far? $1300 below invoice?
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 165
    "The internet sales rep was nice enough to inform me that the deposit was non-refundable."

    Chances are, he actually wasn't being truthful. Consumer protection laws vary by state, but it is likely that he didn't want to take your deposit because he didn't want you to be able to shop your order with another dealer.

    Dealers do not have to return expenses they incurred relating to your purchase such as swap fees or transportation costs to get your car but if it was sitting on the lot, they may have to prove they took a loss by you not buying that particular car, kind of tough to do when you are talking about an EX-L. Of course, in your state, they might be entitled to keep the entire deposit regardless so you might want to check with an attorney in your state should the matter come up again.
  • I've talked with a few dealers in the Akron area the past couple of weeks and I've gotten a few offers today from a couple of dealerships. Invoice is 21,139 on this car so I'm aiming for around 19,600. Is that realistic on the LX CVT or is the price too low to do the 1500-1700 below invoice? Would flex cash be available on top of that? Sales tax is 6.5% here so I'm looking for a OTD around 20,500 to 21,500. I'm actually leasing so I want my lease numbers to be based off of this.

    The offers I got today were:

    Sale price of the vehicle: $20,919.03
    Out The Door price: $22611.02
    Residual: $13,263.90

    And also

    The price of the car is$21,069

    The out the door price is $22,684.

    Both with lease factors of .00075 and residuals of $13263.90.

    Thanks!
  • surajtsurajt Posts: 7
    Hi,

    I am getting a new Accord EX-L 4 dr Sedan for 28,350 out of door in Dallas. How does this deal sounds to you guys?

    Should I wait more?

    Thanks
    Suraj
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    Any you guys live in Chicago looking to buy this month.

    Check out post 12,656 from poster" discopalace "on the last page of the CRV prices paid forum. He talks about emailing dealerships and getting his target price with dealerships who were internet friendly. Apply the same techniques to buy.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    break down your deal. Need agreed sale price, doc fee charge, what incentives were added to sale price if any?

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • adamr1adamr1 Posts: 43
    Brian,

    First off, thanks for the great posts and information you give to this forum. I have been reading here for years and have done well over those years buying Hondas. I will be in the market early to mid next year again, but I enjoy reading the current trends on pricing.

    One suggestion to people regarding the flex cash might be to get quotes from dealers and say you are paying cash. That way you can be sure that they are not building in the flex cash or using it to get you a better price.

    When it comes down to sign or you have picked the dealer you want to buy from, you can then say you want to finance through Honda as you heard about the flex cash. If they don't offer you that then tell them it is a deal breaker as other dealers are offering it.

    This should keep everyone on a level playing field with the quotes you get and also can prevent the dealer from trying to use that to get their price down. Similar to how that post 12,656 on the CRV forum. The finance manager at the very end offered him the flex cash if he finances through Honda, so he did. But you keep that piece for the very end. Just a thought.
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 165
    If you want a shot at a good deal, you need to have the respect of the salesman. Telling the salesman you are interested in leasing and that you want to negotiate the selling price was a great way to show the salesman you know what you're doing, but then you talk about an OTD price of $21K. Remember, it's a lease. With your target of $19,600 and adding lease inception fees, taxes and DMV fees (we have no idea what Ohio fees are), you're talking of an "OTD" of around $225 at time of signing.
    Next time, discuss the capitalized cost of the car, not an OTD price.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    edited August 2013
    Adamr1

    good post.. I'd like to add to it. If you call your targeted dealerships its always best to ask first that dealerships doc fee charge and ask if they have flex cash to give not leading onto anything but i am considering a honda Accord at the end of the month. Make your list get a pad . Now that you know what dealerships have flex you could do as above poster suggested. Might work for alot of you guys.

    If you read some of my posts the way i like to buy is being very direct with these internet mgrs. I find when you play stupid you get stupid.

    So if i'm buying a Accord this month i'm calling each dealership working directly with each internet/ sales manager the last days of the month. In this phone call i'm outlining my price to buy that day along with his "flex cash "added to my asking price. i know that dealers doc fee charge . I let him know this and thats how i arrive at my price. I tell him about several dealerships pricing around him . i let him know i could buy out of state for xxx price but i would like to buy from him.. I put him on the spot.. Do you want this sale today. if dealer tells me my asking price is to high

    Then I challenge him right there to give me is best offer closest to my target price. if he counters my offer i tell him if i dont get my price i will consider it. then move on. If any dealership cant counter my offer i toss him out he lost my business. i continue down the line with my targeted dealerships.

    Knowledge of pricing and how to talk to these guys puts you in the drivers seat.

    If i have a 2 min conversation with you and by then you cant answer my questions I'm going to tongue lash you. If a dealer says listen brian here's the best my dealership can do right now then that dealer i could respect. dealerships full of b.s. probably deserved my wrath for thinking i'm one of those morons walking in his store and the first thing you want to show me is how good the radio is or truck space. Stupid gets stupid . So if i call 20 dealerships 8 maybe full of bs. 3 are not internet friendly the rest is where i try and make my deal. The more dealerships you get involved the better you will do getting your target price.

    Hope this helps you

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • adamr1adamr1 Posts: 43
    Very true. To simplify, it is about supply and demand. The dealer obviously wants to get as much as possible for their car, plain and simple. To do that, they have a whole list of tactics. I have heard them all. To this day, after all the cars I have bought, the best was the salesman who was going to take money out of his paycheck to give me towards the car, to get the price lower. He told me how much he wanted me to have that car. That story is tough to beat.

    My experience shows that you almost always need to walk out. Or at least act as you are walking out. Or in this case, end the call. These people are so experienced in trying to convince you that you have the lowest price.

    But today with the internet, some know better. Others don't. For every person who thinks $500 off MSRP is a steal, there is one of us who gets the car for 1,500 or so under invoice. In the end, the dealer is making plenty of money.

    These similar tactics work on other things besides cars. I recently bought furniture where I walked out of the store. The salesman had my number and called me to offer me a price close to what I was looking for. I said no and ended the call. Of course, 5 minutes later he called me back and offered me my price. And he had a sale.

    Its all a game. If you remove your emotions, and act as if you don't need the car (even if you do), then price becomes the only factor. And a car at dealer A is a the same as a car at dealer B. Since they haven't invested any time in you, it is all about price.

    You are right though Brian, I have found the same, that if you are straight forward and cut to the chase, you will save yourself some time and frustration. The key as you said is to first weed out the BS. And there is so much of it out there. Remember though, the dealer wants to get as much as possible for the car. And their BS works on plenty of people, so of course they will try it. The key is to know this, expect it, plan to walk out, remain calm, and find the balance between getting a price you are comfortable with vs. investing many hours to fight for the last cent.

    Checking a dealers website for their available inventory is also one that has worked well for me. If a dealer only has 2 of the car you want, you will be most likely wasting your time.

    I must say though I never keyed in on the day of the month. Next time around I will follow your advice and do the final negotiating on the last day to see if that makes things change. Start the pricing and requests mid month, but don't get serious till the last day. I am curious to see exactly how much that makes a difference.

    I am in NJ and will be in the market for an EX V6 come early to mid next year. AS others do, I will be happy to share my experience.
  • Okay, then I guess I'm a bit confused. So I shouldn't be negotiating the "sell price" when talking about leasing? You were VERY close it seems. If I could do it for the 19,600 we're looking at right about 229. The closest dealer to me broke it down for me like this (with a higher selling price than I wanted)

    Vehicle:2013 Honda Accord Lx

    Selling Price



    $20,999.00

    Destination



    included

    Documentary fee



    $250.00

    Accessories



    $ -

    Sub Total



    $21,249.00

    Sales Tax

    6.50%

    $1,381.18

    Title Fee



    $15.00

    30 day tag



    $18.50

    Total



    $22,663.68

    I'm trying to get the total to closer to 21,000 to 21,500.
  • Hi everyone!
    So i made a deal on a 2013 accord EX CVT-4 for:
    $23,300 including destination fee and flex cash. I traded in my old clunker for $1000
    With tax and DMV came to $24,421.

    However: i was misinformed as to the 0.9 financing. It only applies for 36 months. If i want 60 months (which i need) its 1.9%.
    When honda calculated the payments, it came to 449 per month for 60 months.
    But when i pllugged the numbers into online car payment calculators such as

    http://www.bankrate.com/calculators/auto/auto-loan-calculator.aspx
    http://www.autoloancalculator.com/
    http://autos.yahoo.com/car-finance/monthly-loan-calculator.html

    They all said i should be paying around 427 per month! (24,421 at 1.9 for 60 mo, no money down.

    What is honda trying to pull??
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 165
    It's definitely about the selling price. You were right on in that point. But what you are describing in your negotiations is a purchase. You show 6.5% tax on $21,249 but in Ohio, sales tax on a lease is based on the total of the monthly payments, not the total cost of the car. And where is the Honda lease inception fee of $595 in your breakdown?
    My point was that you got off to a good start of showing the salesman you know your stuff and then you appear clueless when he gives you figures that apply to a purchase and not for a lease and you don't challenge him. They sense your weakness and will continue to try to take advantage of you.
    Start fresh, visit a new dealer, and talk pure leasing.
  • Okay I definitely will.

    Any resources you would suggest?
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Hopefully you have not signed the paperwork yet - what does the contract state? Indeed - 24421 financed for 60 months @ 1.9 should yield 426.98 per month. If they have you at 449, the rate is higher or something has been added to the amount financed.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • mahlerbonemahlerbone Posts: 4
    edited August 2013
    This is my first time posting here, but this forum was a great information source that helped inform my buying strategy.

    I live in Chicago and just bought a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Sedan for $26,351 minus $500 in flex cash, so a total sale price of $25,851, before all fees and taxes. I paid the $790 destination, plus the litany of taxes that goes along with buying/living in Chicago, plus standard doc and title fees for Illinois. I don't have all of those in front of me, but if anyone really needs to know, just ask.

    Considering this price is $1,651 under invoice (TrueCar), I think it is a fairly good deal. The dealer also treated me very fairly and honestly the whole time, which was a nice change of pace.

    They also paid a surprisingly large amount for my trade in - $9,000 for a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL with 81,000 miles. (CarMax offered me $6,000). My pay off was less than the amount they agreed to, so it helped defray some downpayment cost, not to mention the tax savings.

    I financed for 60 months at 1.9% through Honda Financing, which is the big deal being advertised everywhere.

    Hopefully this will be a helpful data point for those still looking for a 2013. As a word of advice, it seems like the 2013 V6 models are beginning to become harder to find, particularly in the most desirable colors. If you live around Chicago, I'd plan to act before the end of Honda's sale, which concludes Sept. 3rd.
  • If you do true car screen honda in Redlands is offering it for 22480
  • Hello I am in Houston Texas. I got a quote from one dealership.
    Sell price(include destination) 22,269
    pro pack 339
    Tint 150

    Total with Taxes and fee 24,479
    Honda Fiance credit -500

    Out the door price 23,979

    I tried to tell them take the pro pack out, the saleman insisted he lowered down in the price. I think he is BS.

    Is this a good deal?
  • karhill1karhill1 Posts: 163
    I have purchased several Honda vehicles in Maryland. I have found Criswell, Sport, and O'Donnell provide good pricing and a fairly straight forward experience. Best to avoid College Park Honda and Ourisman Honda. In my experience those two dealers play too many games like adding expensive crap, pushing useless lifetime warranties, or high pressure turnover tactics.
  • karhill1karhill1 Posts: 163
    Of course you should negotiate the price on a lease. The price, capitalized cost, is one of the key pieces of a lease. The others being the residual value and money factor.

    To a dealer a lease is essentially the same as a purchase. You do not lease from the dealer. Some dealers may view a lease as a sale which has less possible profit in the F&I office. Those dealers may, therefore, try to sell at a higher price.
  • Yes, as the last poster said, you should absolutely negotiate the cap cost (aka the sale price). That is really one of the only terms you can negotiate - from everything I've heard it is either extremely difficult or impossible to negotiate the residual value or the money factor, since those are both set by Honda Finance and are uniform from dealer to dealer.

    You can and should negotiate the cap cost, because when you lease a vehicle, the dealer is still selling the vehicle - they are just selling it to the lender instead of to you. They do not care if you are buying the vehicle or your lender is buying the vehicle - it they can do a certain price for one, they can do a certain price for another.
  • Is it WITH or W/O navigation?
  • Is it WITH or W/O navigation?
  • First time poster here. I'm looking to get moving on an EX-L w/o NAV. I don't see a lot of information about Cleveland dealers, and prices around the area. A lot of this information seems related to certain areas, so I'm just wondering if I can expect similar prices here in Northeast OH, or if anyone has experience in this area.

    Also, a lot of information here revolves around using emailing for negotiation. Is it unreasonable to believe I can get similar deals at the dealership?

    I'm looking to get around $1000 - $1300 below invoice. Is that unreasonable, or could I do better? I'd like to get something by the end of the month.

    Thanks in advance!
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    edited August 2013
    just read thru these posts and pick a target price and negotiate. we have seen prices between 1000 to almost 1700 below invoice.. Your target price is not unreasonable at 1300 below. If dealerships doc fee charge is 200 your really paying 1100 below invoice for the Accord. Some area's are selling cheaper than others. Supply and demand will be a factor on dealerships lots. After Sept you run the risk of not getting your model and color choice.

    Do not fall into the trap of thinking you can get almost 1700 below when dealers are at 1000 to 1300 below invoice price in your area. If you use some of the tips and negotiating tools on the phone/ emailing or at the dealerships i guarantee you will get the best possible price and you will be happy with your deal.

    good luck.............. post your deal and dealers name for the forum

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • Appreciate your quick response Brian. I didn't think of the Doc Fee affecting the "below invoice price" so I appreciate that thought. I'll keep that in mind during negotiations.

    I've done enough research here and elsewhere to know not to fall into the $1700 below trap. I just want to get my best deal possible without sounding like a knucklehead.

    One more question - Is it silly to go in Saturday (right before month end), and not give myself more time, or does this put a little more pressure on the dealer to make a deal?

    Thanks again.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    edited August 2013
    Last day buying will put the pressure on dealer and You if you really want to buy this month. Dont go that route. What happens if you drive to 3 dealerships and all of them have limited stock and two of them already meet there monthly sales quota's .. Start making calls tomm. You want to go into the last day only if you have not recieved your target price. On that last day you need to know what dealerships have your model/ color either trying again for your price or at the end lowering your price to buy that day.. Who is going to blink first. most of the time its the consumer not the dealer.

    i plan on buying a lexus truck this month. As i have posted in this forum i called 25 dealerships in and around the new york n.j. area gathering info. There is no need to try and buy today. I want every dealerships full attention that means friday afternoon i start my calls to the internet Managers. I proceed to buy like i posted in here. If i do not make a deal friday i shoot for Sat. I have sent my cousin down to 4 dealerships to look on dealers lots for his model. We will target those dealerships first. Being we are buying a 2013 model pricing will be right at our target price. if we do not get it we will buy at the end of Sept, Only this time we will adjust our price to buy that month if our target price cant be had. We gave ourselves 2 months to nail our price down and a target date to buy regardless of pricing.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 165
    In terms of resources, I suggest you take a look at gmanusmc and my posts in the leasing forum.
    In any case, since you lose everything you pay at signing if the car is totalled or stolen, I advise you to put everything into the lease (selling price/doc fees/lease inception fee/DMV fees/Sales tax) and get 36 equal payments.
    Check out the formula for calculating the monthly lease amount so you can keep the dealer honest.
    I see everyone is telling you to negotiate the sales price but I think you already knew that.
    Good luck
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