I STILL haven't received the ball joint recall notice from DC, so I went ahead and called my dealership. They pulled it up by VIN and did the work without having the notice. It's a good thing, too, because I was in the "replace ball joints" category. It concerns me greatly that this recall was issued in November and DC hasn't sent my notification.
Just got my new BFG All-Terrain KOs put on the Liberty and already can tell a huge difference. I can't believe I drove on the Goodyears for two years (40K miles) and suffered through so much slipping and sliding and squealing.
The BFGs hug the road so well! Coincidentally, it started raining on the way home from the dealership, so I got to test the grip on a newly-wet road. No sliding whatsoever.
So for those of you who have had some problems related to your stock tires, I highly encourage you to consider BFGs.
As an aside, my 2002 Liberty Limited has also always pulled to the right. I've gotten used to it over the years, which is pathetic. Anyway, I told the dealership about this problem and they realigned it when they put on the new tires. So far it seems to have helped a little, but I won't know for sure until I do a longer highway trip tomorrow. But I'm in agreement with the group of people who think there's something else going on here besides alignment.
Just to satisfy my curiosity, can anybody tell me what makes a vehicle get "out of alignment"?
Nope, no rock bashing here. All on-road for me. Perhaps I encounter an occasional pothole, but that's about it. I'm a true urban SUVer.
Glad you are OK with your stock tires. I certainly wasn't thrilled to have to spend a ton of $$$ for new tires this soon, but the Goodyears had REALLY worn down, despite rotation at every other oil change. Plus, for me, they just never were right. When you frequently slide off the road on wet (not icy) pavement when slowing to a regular stop on a flat surface, something's definitely up.
I've always done the 4-tire rotation, but that's really because I never even thought about doing a 5-tire rotation.
Am I alone out here to use the Wrangler S4 stock tire? They're so recent that there are none in stores yet. Tire rotation by 5 allows to extend the time of use of the fitted tires. Rotation by 4 is shorter, and if you want to change make, you always have a new spare that's different on your hands.
so far on the Goodyears;but come spring more agressive 4wheeling.We'll see how they work then.I guess do the 5,wear them out and change brands if necessary.
Some of the potholes we get around here would even knock my Dodge Ram out of alignment.Urban wheeling can match some of our Colorado passes on occasion.
I have 3mm pinch on each front wheel. The test took me 2 minutes, including putting the front wheels in line. These values are standard to many makes, and perfect for the Jeep.
I posted here several months ago with some issues concerning rattling and what I thought (and still could be) a defective passenger airbag light. I thought I'd post an update on those and other observations.
Rattling - I think I may have nipped this in the bud just the other day. I had a rattling that seemed to come from the driver side dash/door corner. It was very bewildering because it seemed to only occur on certain types of bumps and/or roads. Playing music or otherwise listening to talk radio drowned it out, so I kinda blew it off until the other night. While looking and tapping around, I removed the fuse panel cover and put it back on. I haven't heard the rattle since and wonder if one of the cover's prongs wasn't fastened in very well.
Passenger airbag light - Went to the dealership. Of course, it wouldn't come on and stay on while at the dealership. They checked the computer and said that it hadn't been tripped or whatever as having a problem or coming on. While driving one day with my dog in the passenger seat, I noticed it came on. Another time, I noticed it came on when I had some miscellaneous items in the seat (cd's, checkbook, etc.). It dawned on me that it was coming on when there was something in the seat but not heavy enough to be a person. Is this some kind of safety thing to keep it from hurting a small child? I didn't think to check to see if the seat is wired with a sensor.
MPG - I never had an issue with this. It consistently gets 18 - 18.5 mpg city. It might be partly because I'm not a hard accelerator and don't do the stop and go traffic thing that much. I don't speed up to make it to the next red light, either, like many others do. I've never understood why people do this. They must think their brake pads are going to last forever. I've taken a few trips and have gotten around 22 mpg.
All said, I love the vehicle 6 months and 7,500 miles later. If anybody has any feedback on the passenger airbag light issue I had, I'd appreciate it.
a 1500 mile trip and suffered no problems what-so ever with the Liberty. Averaged about 20-22 mpg on the highway using my calculator and pump readout. Tried to stay around 60 mph[no hurry]. At 70 into a head wind you can hear the gas tank gurgling quickly to empty. I figure that if I had something that got 30 mpg I'd only save about 30-40 dollars for the trip so what the heck. Besides, I hit enough modest jackpots at the slots to pay for most of the hotel bills. I hit alot of big jackpots too but alas, they were either above or below the payline. I hate when that happens! Hit a roulette number [black 26] with two dollars and had a straight flush at three card poker with a five dollar bet that netted $200. I exercised good restraint and left a winner. It wasn't easy but getting rich rarely is. And Renegaded, if my Liberty had broken down on I-10, I'd have yoked myself to those spiffy new tow hooks and pulled it down the road. My wife would have been behind doing the pushing. Will post something interesting on the Dodge vs Titan forum later.
Torque: I tried it once again, but reached only 90-100 Nm. Agree: I would expect more.
Vibs problem is more complicated: I tried to drive 2,8 diesel like yours and there were no vibs of that art I have described in 1146. Tension transition of the drive shafts on my manual can I perceive too, but it is really no problem. Vibs I have described (and believe - renegaded too) may be problem only of manual transmissions when driven 4x4. In my car they are unacceptable only in 5th gear, by other gears they are really no theme.
Haha, Jayrider, I must agree to you. Even over riveting of my diesel: Over 70 mph I can hear the gurgling too. But no tragedy. Mileage of my 2.5 CRD is only a bit better: 26 mpg - no hurry, 22 mpg - truck racing.
Am I the only one in this forum who has their ball joints swapped out? Though I never felt any pulling or undue play in the front end, it does seem a bit more solid up front.For those of you that have "pulling to the right problems",I'm curious if changing the ball joints made any difference. I looked at my work order and apparently there was heat damage that required changing one boot.
I had a look at my rear diff. It's locking perfectly on the road and I need very little effort to turn either wheel by hand (when jacked). I found an explanation for the large range of torque values: -The Trac-Lock differential locks on demand from either wheel or pinion. It's not a simple pre-tentionned clutch pack that has it's permanent settings. Depending on the last condition of load on the wheel you inspect, the clutch will remain relaxed or partially tensionned (41 to 271 N-m).
I had the same rattle, and the diesel vibrations were transmitted by the panels on both sides. I put two 1/2" thick foam adhesives on these panels, and this works fine. The panels are kept compressed by the door lining. There is another noise transmitter just underneath the steering column. It's the trap facing the driver's knees. When you tap it with your knucles, it sounds 'metallic'. I fixed this by opening the panel and inserting two strips of stiff foam between the 'W' shaped metal piece and the plastic moulding.
The driver side belt on my liberty is also sluggish to retract. My previous car was a plymouth sundance and it had one that was broken so I got used to finessing it back by hand. I will take the issue up with the dealer next service. Meantime I try to avoid wearing cotton shirts and jackets that exert undue drag as the belt retracts. I find that 100% polyester, vinyl, or rubber when buffed lightly with a high quality paste wax provides a bit of relief in this regard. Thanks for the heads up on the belts.
Still haven't received the ball joint recall notice from DC. Did my test in vehicle testing station with good equipment. No play in ball joints after 50.000 km (cca. 30.000 miles), no damage, but (worse) little undue play in steering box audible and palpable on potholes.
The front lower arms are fitted (each) with two eccentric (cams) adjustments. There are even markings on them. Check it! Maybe that could be the reason.
caribou1, renegaded? What do you think? I don´t have this problem since lifting, we set them back symmetrical and with attention.
I would prefer to loose 100 Euros/Dollars on a laser alignment diagnostic rather than taking the risk of a wear issue on both front tires. For your own safety and in the case you get involved in an accident due to mishandling of the truck, the insurance experts will rapidly identify this type of "bricolage". The way you explain these cams makes me think they are used for one of the geometry settings. In principle the front pivots (cams) should be higher than the rear ones. This is an alternative setting for those who use the front end a lot.
What renegader says may or may not be causing the problem. Those who have it could simply ask the dealer to check the cam settings. You would think however, that that would have been done...especially for those having recurring problems. If it is a factor then maybe some shifts on the assembly line payed attention to the setting [or the supplier if the unit bolts on sans adjustment] and some didn't. Some pull and some don't. Next service I'm going to ask that they be checked. And don't forget Rule #3 Renegaded: If Mama ain't happy, then nobody's happy.
What you call Rule #3 + Rule #4 I define as a 'nested loop'. Seriously, I would advise having the front end diagnostic made by a third party professional (expert), and then go back to the dealer with proof in writing if something is really wrong. The ideal test bench is the one that measures alignment starting from the rear wheels, then the front wheels are turned left + right. This method integrates suspention errors and total 3D geometry. My Jeep can pull a bit to the right or to the left depending on which side of a curved road I use. A good test is gentle braking on a parking or tarmac without holding the steering wheel. The truck should never show any obvious deflection.
The only situation where my Jeep is sober is on long travels between 70 and 90 KM/Hour. This seems true for both engines. When people say it's a pig at the pump, even though I have nothing against pigs, I think this concerns mainly city+motorway conditions. The diesel is clearly more efficient in the city. Remains the motorway... I chose not to drive faster than 125 KM/H because I don't want to become deaf. To clearly understand speech (typ. news broadcast): With the engine stopped, the radio level is 4. For city driving, the radio level goes to 12. At 90 KM/h it needs 20. At 110 KM/H, I turn it off.
I know canadian driving conditions very well. I have north american driving habits because I'm from Montreal, and now live in Europe. So I picked the best from both worlds, including my Jeep. Even being noisy, I have the impression it's a sound investment and rather straightforward to repair in the future. I am trying to record the sound of the diesel engine to give you a few hints, but both my MiniDisc and voice recorders saturate due to the high pedestal (background) level. Compared to the VW Jetta TDI, I have the 'whooo' from the turbo but there is an annoying sound (like a free spinning pulley with a seized ball-bearing) that appears at 110 KM/H. This is a killer for the american markets if DC doesnt solve it rapidly. I'm currently investigating for vibrations. Wgorilla spotted the side panels, I cured this source. I found the knee protection cover, I attenuated it. I looked under the dashboard, and there is very little unprotected metal surface left visible from the firewall. Next in queue is the hood. I think we can put more absorbing material above the engine to avoid vibration transmission from the hinges. Also the dash materials are very stiff and propagate sound if I compare to an Audi TDI that has soft padding. All this takes time, so if someone reports seing a guy putting pillows on his dashboard, it could be me.
I´m sorry, instead of "check" it, I should better write "Let it check". I thought on rapid eye - test, which could give you reasons to ask your dealer for regular geometry setting (now he cannot say "we don´t know why...) If you can find some asymmetry on pivot markings, don´t be worry ask regular check.
If I write "we", it is me but first skilled car repair shop, good equipped. Unlike our DC they are interested in help on professional level in the best meaning of that words. I appreciate them (and you too) for sharing the experience to get better results.
On my recent 1500 mile trip I became aware of my very first { and hopefully last} complaint about my Liberty. Whoever designed those cute ribbed faux metal lock buttons must not like to rest their arm on the window sill. Could there possibly be a rational for such retro styling or am I picking nits?
I know just what you mean renegaded... I just sold my '96 Cirrus, and those darned power locks never worked right - you always had to check which doors locked and which didn't. Then again, who in their right minds would actually steal a Cirrus or Neon... I don't think too many DC products made the 10 most stolen lists (maybe the Viper). I always rest my arm on the door sill, but it's never so far back as to be attacked by the lock shaft. I can't imagine what it must be like to try to do that in a Pacifica or Magnum... those high sills would play havoc with my arthritis.... God, I'm getting old and tired!
I went out to the garage and bit down gently on the button and my metal detecting silver filled tooth confirmed that it was aluminum. I guess I didn't think real metal was used much in car interiors anymore. I didn't think you Canadians needed locks or alarms on your cars [or homes] with the Mounties keeping the criminal element at bay. What a world.
Don't forget the hot wings at the Anchor Bar. I want a report on how they stack up to the version served at Denny's. As far as winter weather....you know the scene in Forest Gump where Lt. Dan straps himself to the top of the ship's mast during a hurricane and screams "is that all you've got!!!" When the ice and snow rains down in my neighborhood, I re-enact the same number from the heated leather seat of my Liberty---four wheel drive engaged!
The seats in the Liberty are as you describe. A bit stiff,slick and firm. They're still comfortable though the seat could be a little longer for better thigh support. They don't cradle you--you feel like you're sitting on a bench. The leather seats in my Concorde are supple and soft a bit wider[not that I need it]and longer. You can ride for hours in great comfort. What kind of windshield wipers do you use? I just replaced the originals with a set of Anco's and they streak like they're worn out. May take them back and ask for new refills. We have a Sam's close by and a Walmart Super Center is under construction. My son lives near a Costco but both are pretty comparable. The Costo's are newer so they're nicer but both provide enough free food samples to take the place of a meal while shopping. You didn't complain about your Jeep on your snowy trip. Now your collecting data. Is the bloom creeping back on the rose? And don't you dare go back to Buffalo without stopping for some wings.
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/ I've dropped a few '.wav' files at this url for you to get a first accoustical impression. The recordings were made simply with a digital voice recorder at low sensitivity. The cold engine is recorded outside with the mic just above the driver's tire, the rest is inside windows closed. The very nasty file is the one on the road with the radio volume at 20.
Did you engage the part time 4wd during your trip or stay in rear wd? Before you lube up your boot with vaseline you might check with the dealer to see if Mopar has a product that might be better at low temps. I've heard shaving cream can be effective though I don't know how long it would last.
This puts a pointer on a symptom, but does not cure the cause. It's a function simulator software that would be great for diagnostics. We may have this built into 'intelligent' vehicles in a few years.
I was surfing and came across the information about the Liberty recall. I've got an '02 Liberty Sport and still have not received my official recall notice!
Make : JEEP Model : LIBERTY Year : 2002 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 03V460000 Recall Date : NOV 04, 2003 Component: SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT Potential Number Of Units Affected : 336000 Summary: ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINTS CAN EXPERIENCE A LOSS OF LUBRICATION THAT CAN LEAD TO CORROSION, ACCELERATED WEAR, AND POSSIBLE SEPARATION FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE. Consequence: A BALL JOINT THATHAS SEPARATED FROM THE KNUCKLE COULD RESULT IN LOSS OF VEHICLE DIRECTIONAL CONTROL AND COULD RESULT IN A CRASH. Remedy: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINTS WITH MODIFIED ASSEMBLIES AND HEAT SHIELDS ON VEHICLES BUILT BETWEEN JANUARY 2, 2001 AND OCTOBER 4, 2002. ON VEHICLES BUILT BETWEEN OCTOBER 5, 2002 AND MARCH 26, 2003, DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE BALL JOINT ASSEMBLIES (AND REPLACE THEM AS NECESSARY) AND INSTALL HEAT SHIELDS. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 15, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-992-1997. Notes: DAIMLERCHRYSLER RECALL NO. C36. CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Can you believe - 336,000 Libertys affected. No wonder my dealer has run out of parts!
"Passenger airbag light - Went to the dealership. Of course, it wouldn't come on and stay on...I didn't think to check to see if the seat is wired with a sensor.
If anybody has any feedback on the passenger airbag light issue I had, I'd appreciate it."
I received a one-page letter from DC, a month or so back, with this info regarding my '04 Liberty:
"The 'Pass Airbag Off' light will be on or off depending on the load in the passenger seat."
They go on to list 3 basic conditions that control light function - seat empty, parcels of 10 - 70 lbs., and an occupant greater than 110 lbs.
With nothing in the seat or a parcel of 10 - 70 lbs., the airbag is disabled. In the 10 - 70 lb. parcel stage, the "Pass Airbag Off" light may illuminate.
If you've once thrown an open roadmap, or a parcel under the passenger's seat, it's enough to catch the airbag wiring harness and have the warning light come on. It happened to me with a map on another vehicle, and the remedy was to reseat the connector.
The weather was warm here as well so I did the exterior thing which consisted of taking the Jeep to the carwash. When I got home, I felt a bit of energy so I STP'd the tires. It wasn't going quite like it usually does but I finished all four and it looked just OK instead of drop dead gorgeous.Upon putting the bottle back on the shelf, I realized that I had just Rainxed the Goodyears. The bottles are real similar. I can't come up with a clever line about this mishap, maybe you can help. Did your seat tear on the seam between the seat and wing? Mine still seem fine. The heat element warms up much faster in the Jeep than in the Concorde. Hotter too. Haven't had that problem with the wiper delay. Swapping out the relay should fix it. Did you have any success with the noisy gear shift boot?
Thanks, Caribou1, for your suggestions about using the foam. I thought I had nipped it in the bud by removing and reinserting the fuse cover panel, but the noise comes back occasionally. Dumb question about the panel where the "W" shaped metal pieces are: Exactly how does it come off? I see what looks like two hinges, but everything being plastic and all, I'm afraid to force anything for fear of it breaking. lol
Good to know about the passenger seat/airbag light, stevenjh. Thank you for the info. I'm wondering why they wouldn't include that in the manual to keep people from thinking there is a short or some other problem. Better yet, I would have thought that the folks at dealership service dept. would have run across that dozens of times and tipped me off to it when I took it in. Oh well...
Its a 2004, renegaded. Airbag light is on the left-most side of the chicken bar...the chicken bar being above the glove compartment.
Insert a plastic or metal lever in the upper corners, and gently pull. This will release two metal spring clips that keep the cover closed. It's hinged by the bottom, and by sliding it to the left, the panel comes off.
Renegaded, do you find the high wiper speed a bit slow when dealing with hard rain? My Concorde is the same which is why I went to the RainX. It helps some. I don't remember this problem with any other cars I've owned. I find myself trying to turn the switch further to see if it will speed up the blades. It never does.Sometimes it gets a bit scary. Any chance of replacing the motor with an after market product that has more speed?
Audiophile question: I love everything about my Y2004 Liberty except I wonder if anyone shared the same gripe regarding the sound system. With "fade" control evenly balanced at "0", you can only hear the front speakers. Only when you adjust "fade" control to 7/10ths towards the rear does the system sound "balanced." Initially I thought the rear speakers were in the far back storage area and that this was the reason for the unbalanced sound but the rear soeakers are right behind you in the back door panels! Is this an actual problem with my sound system or just a terrible design issue? Either way, the $475 premium on the sound sytem is a rip-off. Absolutely nothing else negative to say about the vehicle. Thanks for the comments.
Quote: "Only when you adjust "fade" control to 7/10ths towards the rear does the system sound "balanced." "
Its not just you. I've noticed that I have to balance it to the rear a bit for the sound in front of me and behind me to sound "balanced" in the front seat. Its because, as you mentioned, the rear speakers are on the rear door panels. Thus, they don't project sound throughout the cabin very well. By the way, I have the regular stock sound system, so its nothing unique to your premium system. Its just that the positioning of the speakers are the same.
I've noticed what renegaded says about losing sound from the little dash speakers when adjusting too much to the back, so I try to play with it until it all sounds just right. Its just that it doesn't sound "just right" to me when you put it on the '0' setting.
Here are the costs. $300 for the AM/FM/CD In-Dash 6 CD Player and another $475 for Six, Premium Infinity Speakers. That's a lot of cash for those speakers. Guess I was spoiled with my previous set up in my '97 Saturn. Six speakers with 250 watt amp plus an 8" subwoofer in trunk with it's own 180 watt dedicated amp. Like you say, Renegaded, subwoofer is the way to go. It creates a "fullness" to the sound experience that is difficult to achieve with door speakers no matter how you slice it. I could drive that sound system to ear-splitting volumes with virtually zero distortion.
I find it odd that Consumer Reports ranks only the Liberty as a "recommended buy" among all jeep products. Liberty is relatively new yet Wrangler and Cherokee been around forever. You'd think they would have perfected the others after all this time. Go figure.
It's really hard to tell the true cost with some of these "packages." On my loaded (anti-lock brakes, sunroof, OWL tires, etc.) Sport, I have a Customer Preferred Package 28B which is whole array of items listing out at USD$2,265 but on the bottom line there's a USD$ -1,670 Customer Preferred Discount. All SUV's should come with a subwoofer in any upgraded sound system package. Without having a back dashboard/trunk to provide adequate bass in an SUV, a subwoofer is sorely needed.
Comments
The BFGs hug the road so well! Coincidentally, it started raining on the way home from the dealership, so I got to test the grip on a newly-wet road. No sliding whatsoever.
So for those of you who have had some problems related to your stock tires, I highly encourage you to consider BFGs.
As an aside, my 2002 Liberty Limited has also always pulled to the right. I've gotten used to it over the years, which is pathetic. Anyway, I told the dealership about this problem and they realigned it when they put on the new tires. So far it seems to have helped a little, but I won't know for sure until I do a longer highway trip tomorrow. But I'm in agreement with the group of people who think there's something else going on here besides alignment.
Just to satisfy my curiosity, can anybody tell me what makes a vehicle get "out of alignment"?
Glad you are OK with your stock tires. I certainly wasn't thrilled to have to spend a ton of $$$ for new tires this soon, but the Goodyears had REALLY worn down, despite rotation at every other oil change. Plus, for me, they just never were right. When you frequently slide off the road on wet (not icy) pavement when slowing to a regular stop on a flat surface, something's definitely up.
I've always done the 4-tire rotation, but that's really because I never even thought about doing a 5-tire rotation.
Tire rotation by 5 allows to extend the time of use of the fitted tires. Rotation by 4 is shorter, and if you want to change make, you always have a new spare that's different on your hands.
Rattling - I think I may have nipped this in the bud just the other day. I had a rattling that seemed to come from the driver side dash/door corner. It was very bewildering because it seemed to only occur on certain types of bumps and/or roads. Playing music or otherwise listening to talk radio drowned it out, so I kinda blew it off until the other night. While looking and tapping around, I removed the fuse panel cover and put it back on. I haven't heard the rattle since and wonder if one of the cover's prongs wasn't fastened in very well.
Passenger airbag light - Went to the dealership. Of course, it wouldn't come on and stay on while at the dealership. They checked the computer and said that it hadn't been tripped or whatever as having a problem or coming on. While driving one day with my dog in the passenger seat, I noticed it came on. Another time, I noticed it came on when I had some miscellaneous items in the seat (cd's, checkbook, etc.). It dawned on me that it was coming on when there was something in the seat but not heavy enough to be a person. Is this some kind of safety thing to keep it from hurting a small child? I didn't think to check to see if the seat is wired with a sensor.
MPG - I never had an issue with this. It consistently gets 18 - 18.5 mpg city. It might be partly because I'm not a hard accelerator and don't do the stop and go traffic thing that much. I don't speed up to make it to the next red light, either, like many others do. I've never understood why people do this. They must think their brake pads are going to last forever. I've taken a few trips and have gotten around 22 mpg.
All said, I love the vehicle 6 months and 7,500 miles later. If anybody has any feedback on the passenger airbag light issue I had, I'd appreciate it.
Hit a roulette number [black 26] with two dollars and had a straight flush at three card poker with a five dollar bet that netted $200. I exercised good restraint and left a winner. It wasn't easy but getting rich rarely is.
And Renegaded, if my Liberty had broken down on
I-10, I'd have yoked myself to those spiffy new tow hooks and pulled it down the road. My wife would have been behind doing the pushing.
Will post something interesting on the
Dodge vs Titan forum later.
I tried it once again, but reached only 90-100 Nm. Agree: I would expect more.
Vibs problem is more complicated:
I tried to drive 2,8 diesel like yours and there were no vibs of that art I have described in 1146.
Tension transition of the drive shafts on my manual can I perceive too, but it is really no problem. Vibs I have described (and believe - renegaded too) may be problem only of manual transmissions when driven 4x4. In my car they are unacceptable only in 5th gear, by other gears they are really no theme.
Mileage of my 2.5 CRD is only a bit better:
26 mpg - no hurry, 22 mpg - truck racing.
I looked at my work order and apparently there was heat damage that required changing one boot.
-The Trac-Lock differential locks on demand from either wheel or pinion. It's not a simple pre-tentionned clutch pack that has it's permanent settings. Depending on the last condition of load on the wheel you inspect, the clutch will remain relaxed or partially tensionned (41 to 271 N-m).
There is another noise transmitter just underneath the steering column. It's the trap facing the driver's knees. When you tap it with your knucles, it sounds 'metallic'. I fixed this by opening the panel and inserting two strips of stiff foam between the 'W' shaped metal piece and the plastic moulding.
I have had one replaced now others are doing the same.
Not a huge deal but a pain.
Thanks for the input.
Frank
I find that 100% polyester, vinyl, or rubber when buffed lightly with a high quality paste wax provides a bit of relief in this regard.
Thanks for the heads up on the belts.
No pulling to the right.
caribou1, renegaded? What do you think? I don´t have this problem since lifting, we set them back symmetrical and with attention.
And don't forget Rule #3 Renegaded: If Mama ain't happy, then nobody's happy.
The ideal test bench is the one that measures alignment starting from the rear wheels, then the front wheels are turned left + right. This method integrates suspention errors and total 3D geometry.
My Jeep can pull a bit to the right or to the left depending on which side of a curved road I use. A good test is gentle braking on a parking or tarmac without holding the steering wheel. The truck should never show any obvious deflection.
The diesel is clearly more efficient in the city. Remains the motorway... I chose not to drive faster than 125 KM/H because I don't want to become deaf.
To clearly understand speech (typ. news broadcast):
With the engine stopped, the radio level is 4.
For city driving, the radio level goes to 12.
At 90 KM/h it needs 20.
At 110 KM/H, I turn it off.
I am trying to record the sound of the diesel engine to give you a few hints, but both my MiniDisc and voice recorders saturate due to the high pedestal (background) level.
Compared to the VW Jetta TDI, I have the 'whooo' from the turbo but there is an annoying sound (like a free spinning pulley with a seized ball-bearing) that appears at 110 KM/H. This is a killer for the american markets if DC doesnt solve it rapidly. I'm currently investigating for vibrations. Wgorilla spotted the side panels, I cured this source. I found the knee protection cover, I attenuated it. I looked under the dashboard, and there is very little unprotected metal surface left visible from the firewall. Next in queue is the hood. I think we can put more absorbing material above the engine to avoid vibration transmission from the hinges. Also the dash materials are very stiff and propagate sound if I compare to an Audi TDI that has soft padding.
All this takes time, so if someone reports seing a guy putting pillows on his dashboard, it could be me.
I thought on rapid eye - test, which could give you reasons to ask your dealer for regular geometry setting (now he cannot say "we don´t know why...)
If you can find some asymmetry on pivot markings, don´t be worry ask regular check.
If I write "we", it is me but first skilled car repair shop, good equipped. Unlike our DC they are interested in help on professional level in the best meaning of that words. I appreciate them (and you too) for sharing the experience to get better results.
Could there possibly be a rational for such retro styling or am I picking nits?
I didn't think you Canadians needed locks or alarms on your cars [or homes] with the Mounties keeping the criminal element at bay. What a world.
As far as winter weather....you know the scene in Forest Gump where Lt. Dan straps himself to the top of the ship's mast during a hurricane and screams "is that all you've got!!!" When the ice and snow rains down in my neighborhood, I re-enact the same number from the heated leather seat of my Liberty---four wheel drive engaged!
What kind of windshield wipers do you use? I just replaced the originals with a set of Anco's and they streak like they're worn out. May take them back and ask for new refills.
We have a Sam's close by and a Walmart Super Center is under construction. My son lives near a Costco but both are pretty comparable. The Costo's are newer so they're nicer but both provide enough free food samples to take the place of a meal while shopping.
You didn't complain about your Jeep on your snowy trip. Now your collecting data. Is the bloom creeping back on the rose?
And don't you dare go back to Buffalo without stopping for some wings.
I've dropped a few '.wav' files at this url for you to get a first accoustical impression.
The recordings were made simply with a digital voice recorder at low sensitivity. The cold engine is recorded outside with the mic just above the driver's tire, the rest is inside windows closed. The very nasty file is the one on the road with the radio volume at 20.
Before you lube up your boot with vaseline you might check with the dealer to see if Mopar has a product that might be better at low temps. I've heard shaving cream can be effective though I don't know how long it would last.
Make : JEEP Model : LIBERTY Year : 2002
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 03V460000 Recall Date : NOV 04, 2003
Component: SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 336000
Summary:
ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINTS CAN EXPERIENCE A LOSS OF LUBRICATION THAT CAN LEAD TO CORROSION, ACCELERATED WEAR, AND POSSIBLE SEPARATION FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE.
Consequence:
A BALL JOINT THATHAS SEPARATED FROM THE KNUCKLE COULD RESULT IN LOSS OF VEHICLE DIRECTIONAL CONTROL AND COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINTS WITH MODIFIED ASSEMBLIES AND HEAT SHIELDS ON VEHICLES BUILT BETWEEN JANUARY 2, 2001 AND OCTOBER 4, 2002. ON VEHICLES BUILT BETWEEN OCTOBER 5, 2002 AND MARCH 26, 2003, DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE BALL JOINT ASSEMBLIES (AND REPLACE THEM AS NECESSARY) AND INSTALL HEAT SHIELDS. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 15, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-992-1997.
Notes:
DAIMLERCHRYSLER RECALL NO. C36. CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Can you believe - 336,000 Libertys affected. No wonder my dealer has run out of parts!
"Passenger airbag light - Went to the dealership. Of course, it wouldn't come on and stay on...I didn't think to check to see if the seat is wired with a sensor.
If anybody has any feedback on the passenger airbag light issue I had, I'd appreciate it."
I received a one-page letter from DC, a month or so back, with this info regarding my '04 Liberty:
"The 'Pass Airbag Off' light will be on or off depending on the load in the passenger seat."
They go on to list 3 basic conditions that control light function - seat empty, parcels of 10 - 70 lbs., and an occupant greater than 110 lbs.
With nothing in the seat or a parcel of 10 - 70 lbs., the airbag is disabled. In the 10 - 70 lb. parcel stage, the "Pass Airbag Off" light may illuminate.
Did your seat tear on the seam between the seat and wing? Mine still seem fine. The heat element warms up much faster in the Jeep than in the Concorde. Hotter too.
Haven't had that problem with the wiper delay. Swapping out the relay should fix it.
Did you have any success with the noisy gear shift boot?
Good to know about the passenger seat/airbag light, stevenjh. Thank you for the info. I'm wondering why they wouldn't include that in the manual to keep people from thinking there is a short or some other problem. Better yet, I would have thought that the folks at dealership service dept. would have run across that dozens of times and tipped me off to it when I took it in. Oh well...
Its a 2004, renegaded. Airbag light is on the left-most side of the chicken bar...the chicken bar being above the glove compartment.
I don't remember this problem with any other cars I've owned. I find myself trying to turn the switch further to see if it will speed up the blades. It never does.Sometimes it gets a bit scary.
Any chance of replacing the motor with an after market product that has more speed?
I love everything about my Y2004 Liberty except I wonder if anyone shared the same gripe regarding the sound system. With "fade" control evenly balanced at "0", you can only hear the front speakers. Only when you adjust "fade" control to 7/10ths towards the rear does the system sound "balanced." Initially I thought the rear speakers were in the far back storage area and that this was the reason for the unbalanced sound but the rear soeakers are right behind you in the back door panels! Is this an actual problem with my sound system or just a terrible design issue? Either way, the $475 premium on the sound sytem is a rip-off. Absolutely nothing else negative to say about the vehicle. Thanks for the comments.
Its not just you. I've noticed that I have to balance it to the rear a bit for the sound in front of me and behind me to sound "balanced" in the front seat. Its because, as you mentioned, the rear speakers are on the rear door panels. Thus, they don't project sound throughout the cabin very well. By the way, I have the regular stock sound system, so its nothing unique to your premium system. Its just that the positioning of the speakers are the same.
I've noticed what renegaded says about losing sound from the little dash speakers when adjusting too much to the back, so I try to play with it until it all sounds just right. Its just that it doesn't sound "just right" to me when you put it on the '0' setting.
I find it odd that Consumer Reports ranks only the Liberty as a "recommended buy" among all jeep products. Liberty is relatively new yet Wrangler and Cherokee been around forever. You'd think they would have perfected the others after all this time. Go figure.