The problem with only the higher fan speeds working is usually the blower motor resister assembly. Part isn't to expensive but its under the dash so a little work is needed to replace it
has anyone been able to mount any side bars on their RDV. Westin company has a bunch of bars (Oval Tube 2 for example) that are produced at universal lenghts (which fit the RDV), but do not have a mounting kit. They said I can purchase the bars but I would have to custom make the mounting kit. Anyone ever done this or any similar.
I don't have a vous, but in looking around manik or onki may have something you like. You may have to look for proper terminology (side step, nerf bar, running board, rocker step)
Thanks for the info. I just about given up on this. I not particular happy about getting running boards and the supplier closest to me "Hitch City" just carried that (plastic or fiberglass). the Manik just carried nerf board which did nothing (was not a step up board just a cosmetic thing for the rocker panel line) and Westin did not carry any products for the RDV at all (I phoned them directly). On the other hand Onki does carry a nerf board (which is a step board and looks nice and a real nice looking running board (chrome with some lights). Thanks for the info. I will ask my local supplier if they can get a hold of these items.
Thanks again for your help. My wife is pregnant and this should help getting in and out of this beast of vehicle.
I recently got a new 2007 Rendezvous with a factory installed navigation system. The sticker stated that it comes with a 6-disc changer. Not so, I learned to my dismay that no changer is installed and to make things worse the navigation system only works with the navigation disc in. In other words I cannot listen to a CD while using the navigation system. The dealer advised that an after market changer can be installed and sent me to a installer. They have advised me that Buick has it on back order and it will take several months before they get it. I'm thinking I'm getting a run-around. Has anyone had a similar problem?
You can prolly go to a car audio place and buy a CD changer it doesnt have to come from buick If the buick one is controlled by the head unit ive heard you may need to have the dealership unlock your radio for that output unless its part of the installation. id go to best buy or circuitcity and find a FM modulated CD Changer. the 6 disk changer was prolly standard and replaced with the nav system.
I know about the various fixes using FM, the problem with that is if I am limited to the changer playing through an FM channel then I cannot have 2 sources playing at one time. I listen to books and my wife wants to listen to the CD. If properly setup I can listen to my books using the FM source and my wife can listen to the cd's using the headphone jack in the back unit. I am well aware that the 6 disc changer that comes without the navigator is a in-the-dash one. I however have been told that a 6-disc changer can be hooked up to the navigator. The problem is that while the installation manual for the navigator clearly states that a changer can be added it doesn't show how to hook it up nor does it say what the make of the changer is. Everyone at Buick and the installer say that it can be done and I'm willing to wait, but I'm suspicious that they are only telling me what I want to hear. I was just looking for a confirmation from another source.
ahh ok i get it My bad Ok the back of the radio has two places for harnesses one harness is used for the speakers and radio wires the other is used for Auxillary players and inputs. this is where the cd changer will plug into along with some kits that connect an ipod, XM etc. If you can get a changer from a escalade or denali and figure a way to mount it in the dash it should plug right in. BUT from what i hear that harness may not be activated so youll need GM to unlock it so you can use it. I compared the harness connectors from the escalade and the rendezvous and the wires are the same This one is on ebay right now for 100 bucks and its a 6 disk im sure itll go for more but check ebay for these or even GM though they will prolly say No LOL hope this helps Oh though the Escladea lights up clear compared to the RDV green I think
I would go asked the dealer what they think and if they will work on it you should only need to be concerned bout the wiring mounting it may be fun but i think GM shares the navs between each model so double check but from what i have seen it should work good luck
Where did you get the wood trim pkg and did you do the work yourself? It really looks nice. Might just have to change mine if it isn't too hard to do. Could do it at the same time I replace the radio with a navigation system/radio. Probably will have to get someone like Crutchfield to do it. Guess I will be keeping mine for a while yet since I have the extended warranty and the new SUV doesn't promise any better gas mileage.
I got my wood dash around the cluser off ebay for 100 its the factory piece which retails for 350 so i figured i got a good deal the rest of the wood i found also on ebay buy it now for 45 i dont know why it was so cheap but i snagged it before the page finished loading LOL so all together 145 it made a BIG difference The vous is jsut too monochramatic and needs some color"
It all looks great. Does the factory installed pieces come off easily? Screws, clips, snap-off ?? I haven't tried to do anything to mine because I don't want to crack something. When you were on ebay, did you search for Rendezvous wood dash, or ??
the pice that goes around the radio, cluster and healdight switch is all one piece so it can be a pain. but you take two screws off in the driver footell that holds the black panel where the light is then pull the knee panel under the column off its helpd with clips and then you can pull all around the dash trim and it pops out. you do gotta move the shifter too 1 and tilt the column down to get it all off. otherwise it pulls off with clips. then as you pull it away you need to unplug if you have the DIC or HUD.unplug it before you tug on the wires to much. you can pop that control panel its attached to off but i find its a pain to do. now outting it on can be a pain esp around the cluster you gotta flex it and bend pieces to get it to fit ive doen mine 4 times and havent broke anyhitng or damaged anything so it can be done. i got the factory wood part cause the wood look is molded around the edges compared to the stick on that just sticks on. yeah on ebay i jsut type in Rendezvous Wood and it pops up. but there are tones of sites that sale wood dashes so shop around. i also got the 06 wood steering wheel that matches but i cant get the airbag off GRRRR
I installed a Westin Safari light bar on my 2005 Ultra and it did not fit. After talking to Westin, we determined that Buick had put a different engine cradle in the 3.6 cars, with different mounting holes. Westin offered to take the bar back but I made an adaptor to make it fit. They had no intention to modify their mounting kit for 3.6 Rendezvous. Now that more Rendezvous are equipped with the 3.6 they may have changed their minds. If anyone is interested I can share my modifications.
Second item...I made a rear storage shelf that clips on the tie down in the rear. I made my shelf 16" deep x the width of the car, about 42". It can be made larger and comes out quite easily. The advantage of the shelf is that smaller, light items can be placed on it the heavier, bulkier bags and boxes can be removed without moving the light stuff. Again I can share the plan/pictures.
Can someone give me the color codes on the radio wiring harness on 2003 RDV CX with the basic single CD Changer.
I do not have Onstar or premium bose system.
I have managed to hook up another aftermarket in-dash GPS/DVD player. I am having troubles finding the wires to hook up to the illumination of the aftermarket deck as well using the steering controls with it. The new deck has two wires to connect to the steering wheel controls, I don't seem to figure out, which ones on the factory harness are used for steering wheel controls.
Also, I have got an input for the reverse camera on the aftermarket deck that requires one wire to be hooked on to the reverse switch. Can anyone please shed some light on that as well.
My wife allowed me to buy her a 2003 FWD RDV approx 2 years ago. Even since the day we bought it, I always felt it needed more rear lights. Mostly because the rear of this vehicle has high mounted lights. Today, I installed a simple ID Bar (which has 3 little lights) under its rear bumper using a simple 90 degree piece of steel. If wondering, these 3 little lights are connected to its running/clearance lights (brown wire).
Hey awhile back you were on edmunds and published a picture to help another person who was trying to figure out what all the plugs were in the back of his rendezvous.
He wanted to know what different ones did. Specifically so he could install a wiring harness and/or brake controller. YOu posted a nice picture... no longer hosted by photobucket...
And explained what each one did.
Its gone now and I need that info....
Can you help by sending me the picture and the info?
Here is a link to show you what I was talking about...
I can't seem to find my previous post / reply. Thus, here's the same info about installing a Class III hitch and its wiring for onboard Brake Controller.
For factory 4 pin Wire connector on RDV vehicle, puchase: http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/re2020trwiki.html Note: Factory V92 plug under the rear right bumper area. Simply remove its blue plug and "plug in" the new V92 trailer wiring adaptor cable. Surf above URL for a picture. If wondering, I connected the "brown - running / clearance" and "white - ground" wires from this bundle to my customized rear ID bar (3 lights).
For a trailer with onboard electric brakes, puchase a 7-pin connector and mount this connector under the vehicle's rear bumper. Many need to buy its galvanized steel mounting plate as well. For a picture of this 7-pin connector, surf: http://www.etrailer.com/p-30310.htm Note: Double check the "connector" on your existing trailer (that has its own onboard brakes). It may have a 6 pin connector or a 7-pin connector with round holes. Thus, a slightly different rear connector may have to be bought. For now, let's assume your trailer needs a 7-pin connector with blade contacts (that's shown in the above URL).
Using the 4 pin leads from your factory V92 "pig tail" and installed 7-pin connector (mounted under rear bumper area), connect the available wires together. Use a scratch pad and 12V tester to ensure each wire (and ground) is properly connected. For picture of what wire into 7-pin plug, surf: http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/faq/wiring_7_pole_500.jpg
The next steps should be done by a 12V auto specialist. For me (on my other vehicle - which is our tow vehicle with Brake Controller), I "pulled in" the 10 guage wiring but got my auto mechanic to connect their ends. Using 2 x 10 guage 12V wiring (one blue and one red - for example), connect to your 7-pin connector and pull these wires to the front of your vehicle. For my other vehicle, I pulled / fastened these wires on the outside (under the vehicle). If you like removing interior panels and such, run these thick 10 guage wires on the inside. If wondering, 1 wire (for example, RED wire) goes from the vehicle's "accessory" fuse to your 7-pin connector - pin #4. When your vehicle's ignition key is ON, this pin #4 is live. If wondering, pin #4 is often used to "trickle charge" a 12V battery inside the attached trailer (assuming the attached trailer has on onboard 12V battery). When the vehicle's key if OFF, there's NO current down this #4 wire. The other 10 guage wire (re: blue wire) that was installed goes from 7-pin connector Pin #2 (electric brakes) to the vehicle's onboard brake controller. For pin assignments within 7 pin connector, surf: http://www.tropictrailer.com/images/wiring/image013.jpg
Fully test all signals, running / clearance lights, brake controller pin #2 and 12V live pin #4. If necessary, do replace the vehicle's factory default load "flasher unit" with a HD (Heavy Duty) Flasher unit as well. Thus, stopping your flasher from flashing too fast (when towing a trailer). One of those "try it and see how fast it flashes for you" things.
Note: After wiring is fully tested, use "plastic cable loom" to protect the rear wires and use galvanized strapping to secure the wire loom bundle. External silicone the back of the 7-pin connector as well. Thus, keeping crud and rust out of this critical connector. Also... Mount the 7-pin connector on the vehicle's rear bumper. Do NOT drill holes within the installed trailer hitch. Extra holes weaken a hitch.
At times, I don't know my left from my right. LOL!!!!
The V92 plug (for trailer wiring harness) is located under the "left" rear bumper area. For more pictures of how I installed the ID bar, its V92 location, plastic loom and PL Premium (for water protection) coating, surf contents of:
Instead of "left or right" which is always confusing to everyone.
Perhaps you could tell us more clearly if you used the following... DRIVERSIDE or PASSENGERSIDE.
I've looked at the photos and they appear to be passengerside rear bumper area if the tire placement and laying under the car are taken into account.
However, looking under MY rendezvous I see a pigtail just hanging loose under the DRIVER side back of the wheel well area. The other part of this continues up into the back and I assume eventually the rear driverside light.
Please help us to konw what we are looking at in the photos... were they driver or passenger side shots?
I also am unable to tell exactly what you did with the four wire plug that you purchased.
Let me restate it, I'm looking ofr a simple way to plug in and have lights to a four pin camper plug. I'd rather just connect one plug if thats possible.
The V92 outlet is under the rear bumper area - driver's side.
To connect a utility trailer that does NOT have its own onboard electric brakes, simply install a Class III hitch (as shown in the video). Then, buy the V92 to 4-pin Flat connector (which is approx 2.5 ft long). Connect the V92 plug into the vehicle's V92 outlet. Plug the other end of the wire (which is a 4 flat end) to your utility trailer.
If you pull a tent trailer or utility trailer that has its own onboard electric brakes, then install a 7-pin connector instead. Install a Brake Controller in your RDV. And if your trailer has onboard battery (like tent trailers), then install a 12V "live" wire as well.
If only pulling a light weight utility trailer that has Surge Brakes or NO onboard electric brakes, simply purchase the V92 to 4-pin wire.
For factory V92 to 4 pin Wire connector on RDV vehicle, puchase: http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/re2020trwiki.html Note: Factory V92 plug under the rear right bumper area. Simply remove its blue plug and "plug in" the new V92 trailer wiring adaptor cable. Surf above URL for a picture. If wondering, I connected the "brown - running / clearance" and "white - ground" wires from this bundle to my customized rear ID bar (3 lights).
Forgot to mention... I do NOT tow anything with my RDV. My mechanic tells me that my 2003 RDV FWD isn't made for towing. Yes. I have a Class II trailer hitch for my RDV (which is hanging in my shed) but did NOT install it. For towing (even light weight utility trailers), I use my other vehicle - which is made for towing. My RDV's V92 to 4-pin 2.5 long wire harness was modified to connect into my vehicle's custom ID "light bar" instead. For this, I simply cut its 4-pin flat connector off and spliced its brown (running lights) and white (ground) wire into its ID light bar. Its green and yellow wire in this wire harness 2.5 long bundle were left "as is".
Hello Spike99. Regarding about what you mentioned on your last paragraph, it made me second thought if I'm going to put a trailer hitch Class III on my 2005 RDV AWD (3.4L V6). According to my research it as only 185hp and 210 lb-ft torque maximum, I'm planning to buy utility trailer which has 1700 lbs gross wt. Do you think its appropriate/safe to go on with the plan or it's not good idea at all?
For a "light weight" utility trailer of say "1700 lbs gross wt.", your 2005 AWD RDV should easily pull it. And pull it without too much stress. If wondering, my one utility trailer has a 3,200 lbs axle and my other vehicle has a 3,600 lbs axle. Thus, I use a differt vehicle (my non - RDV vehicle) to pull either of my utility trailers. Thus, allowing my RDV to remain a "run about" vehicle. For your 2005 RDV, pulling a utility trailer of "1700 lbs gross wt." is very little stress on it.
If you pull a "loaded" utility trailer WITH rear cargo and/or WITH lots of passengers, I'd recommend installing an Aux Transmission Cooler as well. Thus, keeping its tranmission oil "cool". Cool = longer transmission life. For example: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/OC-1678.html
As long as you pull a light weight utility trailer and don't over "push it" during stop/go traffic, against strong head wind and/or up the steep hills, your 2005 RDV should easily pull a max loaded 1,700 lbs utility trailer.
I want the passenger to be able to key in directions so I was wondering if anyone knew how to over ride the system in a 2006? We also have a lexus and had no problem over riding it. Thanks for any help.
Not too sure about E3 Plugs myself. Especially E3 design (which might burn hotter) that's being used in a small GM engine - within a heavy weight vehicle like the Rendezvous.
Comments
That would deprive everyone else here of valuable information!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
James :confuse:
Thanks again for your help. My wife is pregnant and this should help getting in and out of this beast of vehicle.
James
Thank you
Everyone at Buick and the installer say that it can be done and I'm willing to wait, but I'm suspicious that they are only telling me what I want to hear. I was just looking for a confirmation from another source.
Do you have information as to where this is being sold on E-Bay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-GMC-Cadillac-escalade-remote-slave-6-disc-cd-p- layer_W0QQitemZ170099632064QQihZ007QQcategoryZ38641QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-GMC-Cadillac-escalade-remote-slave-6-disc-cd-p- layer_W0QQitemZ260103871344QQihZ016QQcategoryZ38641QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-GMC-Cadillac-escalade-remote-slave-6-disc-cd-p- layer_W0QQitemZ140105770823QQihZ004QQcategoryZ38641QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-GMC-Cadillac-Escalade-remote-slave-6-cd-change- r_W0QQitemZ230113292374QQihZ013QQcategoryZ43948QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I will keep you informed.
Second item...I made a rear storage shelf that clips on the tie down in the rear. I made my shelf 16" deep x the width of the car, about 42". It can be made larger and comes out quite easily. The advantage of the shelf is that smaller, light items can be placed on it the heavier, bulkier bags and boxes can be removed without moving the light stuff. Again I can share the plan/pictures.
Could i get this system to work on my 2005?
Also, I really like the HUD feature. Anyone know where I could pick up this feature, without going to the dealer?
Thanks
I do not have Onstar or premium bose system.
I have managed to hook up another aftermarket in-dash GPS/DVD player. I am having troubles finding the wires to hook up to the illumination of the aftermarket deck as well using the steering controls with it. The new deck has two wires to connect to the steering wheel controls, I don't seem to figure out, which ones on the factory harness are used for steering wheel controls.
Also, I have got an input for the reverse camera on the aftermarket deck that requires one wire to be hooked on to the reverse switch. Can anyone please shed some light on that as well.
Thanks :sick:
Does anyone make a cold air intake and/or a tuner for the RDV?
Thanks.
For some pictures, surf:
ID Bar: http://www.etrailer.com/pc-light-bars-incandescent~MC94RB.htm
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Misc%20Pictures/Lights-- - - 1.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Misc%20Pictures/Lights-- - - 2.jpg
If you are thinking of adding more rear lights to your non-trailer hitch RDV unit, this modification can be `cloned` on your RDV as well...
Hope this helps others...
.
Hey awhile back you were on edmunds and published a picture to help another person who was trying to figure out what all the plugs were in the back of his rendezvous.
He wanted to know what different ones did. Specifically so he could install a wiring harness and/or brake controller. YOu posted a nice picture... no longer hosted by photobucket...
And explained what each one did.
Its gone now and I need that info....
Can you help by sending me the picture and the info?
Here is a link to show you what I was talking about...
pauls02, "Buick Rendezvous Accessories and Modifications" #233, 11 Feb 2006 7:04 am
YOur info was down at message 252 and 254.
Can you do the same for me and email me with that info?
Thanks,
email to trickstandsATaol.com replace the AT with an @. Thanks
I can't seem to find my previous post / reply. Thus, here's the same info about installing a Class III hitch and its wiring for onboard Brake Controller.
For video - to install the Class III hitch: http://www.sutree.com/game.aspx?s=38711
For factory 4 pin Wire connector on RDV vehicle, puchase: http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/re2020trwiki.html
Note: Factory V92 plug under the rear right bumper area. Simply remove its blue plug and "plug in" the new V92 trailer wiring adaptor cable. Surf above URL for a picture. If wondering, I connected the "brown - running / clearance" and "white - ground" wires from this bundle to my customized rear ID bar (3 lights).
For a trailer with onboard electric brakes, puchase a 7-pin connector and mount this connector under the vehicle's rear bumper. Many need to buy its galvanized steel mounting plate as well. For a picture of this 7-pin connector, surf: http://www.etrailer.com/p-30310.htm
Note: Double check the "connector" on your existing trailer (that has its own onboard brakes). It may have a 6 pin connector or a 7-pin connector with round holes. Thus, a slightly different rear connector may have to be bought. For now, let's assume your trailer needs a 7-pin connector with blade contacts (that's shown in the above URL).
Using the 4 pin leads from your factory V92 "pig tail" and installed 7-pin connector (mounted under rear bumper area), connect the available wires together. Use a scratch pad and 12V tester to ensure each wire (and ground) is properly connected. For picture of what wire into 7-pin plug, surf: http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/faq/wiring_7_pole_500.jpg
The next steps should be done by a 12V auto specialist. For me (on my other vehicle - which is our tow vehicle with Brake Controller), I "pulled in" the 10 guage wiring but got my auto mechanic to connect their ends. Using 2 x 10 guage 12V wiring (one blue and one red - for example), connect to your 7-pin connector and pull these wires to the front of your vehicle. For my other vehicle, I pulled / fastened these wires on the outside (under the vehicle). If you like removing interior panels and such, run these thick 10 guage wires on the inside. If wondering, 1 wire (for example, RED wire) goes from the vehicle's "accessory" fuse to your 7-pin connector - pin #4. When your vehicle's ignition key is ON, this pin #4 is live. If wondering, pin #4 is often used to "trickle charge" a 12V battery inside the attached trailer (assuming the attached trailer has on onboard 12V battery). When the vehicle's key if OFF, there's NO current down this #4 wire. The other 10 guage wire (re: blue wire) that was installed goes from 7-pin connector Pin #2 (electric brakes) to the vehicle's onboard brake controller. For pin assignments within 7 pin connector, surf: http://www.tropictrailer.com/images/wiring/image013.jpg
For more brake controller wiring details, surf 1/3 page down: http://www.etrailer.com/faq_brakecontroller.aspx
Fully test all signals, running / clearance lights, brake controller pin #2 and 12V live pin #4. If necessary, do replace the vehicle's factory default load "flasher unit" with a HD (Heavy Duty) Flasher unit as well. Thus, stopping your flasher from flashing too fast (when towing a trailer). One of those "try it and see how fast it flashes for you" things.
Note: After wiring is fully tested, use "plastic cable loom" to protect the rear wires and use galvanized strapping to secure the wire loom bundle. External silicone the back of the 7-pin connector as well. Thus, keeping crud and rust out of this critical connector. Also... Mount the 7-pin connector on the vehicle's rear bumper. Do NOT drill holes within the installed trailer hitch. Extra holes weaken a hitch.
BTW: To connect a standard 4-pin trailer to your newly installed 7-pin connector (say a small utility trailer without brakes), simply install a 7-4 pin connector. For a picture, surf: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200336745_200- 336745
Hope this helps...
.
The V92 plug (for trailer wiring harness) is located under the "left" rear bumper area. For more pictures of how I installed the ID bar, its V92 location, plastic loom and PL Premium (for water protection) coating, surf contents of:
http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/RDV%20Rear%20Lights/
Note: To enlarge each thumbnail picture, simply click on it.
Hope this correction and more pictures helps as well....
.
Testing URL...
http://www.carspace.com/spike99/Albums/spike99%27s%20Album/
Hope this works... Good. It works. Thanks for sharing this trick. LOL...
.
Perhaps you could tell us more clearly if you used the following... DRIVERSIDE or PASSENGERSIDE.
I've looked at the photos and they appear to be passengerside rear bumper area if the tire placement and laying under the car are taken into account.
However, looking under MY rendezvous I see a pigtail just hanging loose under the DRIVER side back of the wheel well area. The other part of this continues up into the back and I assume eventually the rear driverside light.
Please help us to konw what we are looking at in the photos... were they driver or passenger side shots?
I also am unable to tell exactly what you did with the four wire plug that you purchased.
Let me restate it, I'm looking ofr a simple way to plug in and have lights to a four pin camper plug. I'd rather just connect one plug if thats possible.
The V92 outlet is under the rear bumper area - driver's side.
To connect a utility trailer that does NOT have its own onboard electric brakes, simply install a Class III hitch (as shown in the video). Then, buy the V92 to 4-pin Flat connector (which is approx 2.5 ft long). Connect the V92 plug into the vehicle's V92 outlet. Plug the other end of the wire (which is a 4 flat end) to your utility trailer.
If you pull a tent trailer or utility trailer that has its own onboard electric brakes, then install a 7-pin connector instead. Install a Brake Controller in your RDV. And if your trailer has onboard battery (like tent trailers), then install a 12V "live" wire as well.
If only pulling a light weight utility trailer that has Surge Brakes or NO onboard electric brakes, simply purchase the V92 to 4-pin wire.
----------
For video - to install the Class III hitch: http://www.sutree.com/game.aspx?s=38711
For factory V92 to 4 pin Wire connector on RDV vehicle, puchase: http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/re2020trwiki.html
Note: Factory V92 plug under the rear right bumper area. Simply remove its blue plug and "plug in" the new V92 trailer wiring adaptor cable. Surf above URL for a picture. If wondering, I connected the "brown - running / clearance" and "white - ground" wires from this bundle to my customized rear ID bar (3 lights).
Forgot to mention... I do NOT tow anything with my RDV. My mechanic tells me that my 2003 RDV FWD isn't made for towing. Yes. I have a Class II trailer hitch for my RDV (which is hanging in my shed) but did NOT install it. For towing (even light weight utility trailers), I use my other vehicle - which is made for towing. My RDV's V92 to 4-pin 2.5 long wire harness was modified to connect into my vehicle's custom ID "light bar" instead. For this, I simply cut its 4-pin flat connector off and spliced its brown (running lights) and white (ground) wire into its ID light bar. Its green and yellow wire in this wire harness 2.5 long bundle were left "as is".
Hope this helps as well...
.
For a "light weight" utility trailer of say "1700 lbs gross wt.", your 2005 AWD RDV should easily pull it. And pull it without too much stress. If wondering, my one utility trailer has a 3,200 lbs axle and my other vehicle has a 3,600 lbs axle. Thus, I use a differt vehicle (my non - RDV vehicle) to pull either of my utility trailers. Thus, allowing my RDV to remain a "run about" vehicle. For your 2005 RDV, pulling a utility trailer of "1700 lbs gross wt." is very little stress on it.
If you pull a "loaded" utility trailer WITH rear cargo and/or WITH lots of passengers, I'd recommend installing an Aux Transmission Cooler as well. Thus, keeping its tranmission oil "cool". Cool = longer transmission life. For example: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/OC-1678.html
And if the rear of your vehicle has too much rear sag, you might want to investigate Timbrens or Air Bag suspension upgrade as well. re: http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/application-pdfs/GMRREN.pdf
As long as you pull a light weight utility trailer and don't over "push it" during stop/go traffic, against strong head wind and/or up the steep hills, your 2005 RDV should easily pull a max loaded 1,700 lbs utility trailer.
.
Not too sure about E3 Plugs myself. Especially E3 design (which might burn hotter) that's being used in a small GM engine - within a heavy weight vehicle like the Rendezvous.
To learn what E3 plug design is, watch video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sX8TNTT0vGQ
To learn any "high problem" pattern areas, simply google "e3 spark plug problems".
re: http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=e3+spark+plug+problems&meta=&aq=4&- oq=e3+spark+plug+
Based on the posts I've read, many folks seems to like the E3 spark plug design.
Hope this helps...
.