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Comments
Kts1 is correct that intake manifold gaskets are a problem on these cars, BUT even a powertrain warranty would cover that.
And frankly... even if I had those gaskets checked out and they were good, I wouldn't own the car without the warranty. That's not really a knock on the car, but, any car over 100k will need some repairs and you said you did not want any surprises.
Buy enough warranty to cover you during your ownership and I think you will have a good experience!
Brian D
07 RDV CXL
I need to buy 4 new tires for my 2004 Rendezvous CX with 65,000 miles on it. Does anyone have any recommendations on a good tire under $100 bucks?
Thanks again,
--jason
I had trouble finding a tire store that carried 215 70R 16. I was told that it is an odd size and it would take about a week to order them. But, I was also looking for a good all season tire, so that might be why I had trouble. The tires I did put on are Copper Discovery ATR. They are about 140 to 160, but they are an excellent tire.
Alot of the tires I found that fit were around the 130 mark. When replacing tires I always shop around for the best deals on a particular tire. So just call some of your local tire stores and tell them your price range and most of them will get you pretty close.
Thanks,
--jason
Besides the Coopers mentioned, you could go with:
General Ameri-GS60
Kumho Solus KR21
Uniroyal Tiger Paw Tour SR
Based on online reviews of these tires, I would recommend the Kumhos. And they're only $61 each (plus shipping/installation). They're the best choice if you stick to your stock size.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Solus+KR21&part- - num=17TR6KR21&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&place=1&speed_rating=S&speed_r- - ating=T&speed_rating=U&speed_rating=H&speed_rating=V&speed_rating=Z&speed_rating- - =W&speed_rating=Y&speed_rating=(Y)&minSpeedRating=S#Survey
If you have time, I recommend studying TireRack's site, lots of tire info and reviews and test results available there. If you don't want the Kumhos for some reason, I can run your size through an online tire size calculator and find a second size that would be acceptable for your 04 RDV. (one that wouldn't mess up the rolling diameter and keeps the speedometer accurate)
Feel free to ask more questions, and good luck!
Brian D
07 RDV CXL
The letter states that if you think you have this problem, you should schedule an appt. with a GM dealer to get it repaired.
I wonder if this has anything to do with the gasoline smell I notice in the car sometimes.
Here's a PDF of the letter I got:
Buick Letter
No manufacturer wants the stigma of "recall' associated with their products.
Long story short... Their approach on this one is more then a political campain. Its how to reduce their repair costs.... And keeps more dollars in their pockets. To me, very unethical way to fix a known gass leak problem.
.
If your vehicle has a "high risk" of known gas leak, then a "campaign" to get it fixed is acceptable? To me, leaking gas is a human risk issue as well. Just like brakes, steering and seat belts. Too bad "the jury" is still out on their leaking intake gaskets and known electronic problems. Especially ib tger 2002 RDVs.
A "campain" is a means to keep more dollars in their pocket - by fixing less then 100% of the vehicles involved. That's the bottom line behind their political correct written words...
Something to think about....
.
Keep in mind all repair made by dealer...
In last year- have had to replace:
- moonroof -(bad motor):
-door switches (stopped working);
-a pulley (loud squelching);
-Onstar;--ok so this I saw coming,,,,,,,but since December 2007 my electric system went dead and replaced ignition switch, battery, they also found oil leak on intake manifold,,,,luckily most covered by extended warranty. But then the squelching began again so they sprayed wd40,the rain was blamed. ....
This past week,,AWD / Antilock brake lights come on --they have to replace a brake sensor and found something faulty in my braking,,also squelching now blamed on bad power steering pump,,,,again most covered by a warranty.
BUT a Problem that has been consistent is it stalls when at slow speeds, usually 5-10 miles when turning, onto a drive way, parking lot, etc,,,,,doesn't happen often,,,about 1 every four months,,,,,plenty of gas and no dummy lights,,,Onstar runs diagnostic at the time but no problems noted . Had it looked at for this problems at 19,000 miles,,,(currently at 44,000), back then no source of problem could be found, and they stated that without a code,,,,,,,Now, they state that a TSB suggests the fuse box in engine compartment be changed due to corrosion. Warranty wont cover this,,I am insisting that since this problem was originally brought to their attention two years ago,,that they cover it.. I know that was wordy,,but any one else go through this,,,,,,,,any help would be appreciated..... thanks :sick: :sick: :lemon:
If they come back saying it is corroded, then you are correct, this condition could be causing the stalling and since you brought it up to them before the warranty expried it would be covered by GM. It's important in these cases to make sure they document your complaint in the service record WORD for WORD. Don't let them get away with anything less otherwise you won't have a leg to stand on in post-warranty claims.
If they don't find corrosion, then the problem lies elsewhere.
When it stalls, does the engine sputter/cough and then stall (which would lead me to other issues than just electrical) or does it turn off very abruptly (more electrical in nature then).
Insist on this.... demand to speak to a service manager. If you don't get what you deserve go to another Buick dealer, or even a Pontiac/Chevy/Saturn (in that order, that's how familiar they would be with this vehicle). Changing a fuel tank isn't very vehicle specific.
car when comingto a stop ( no lights, plenty of gas ,no turn signal left on),,,this has happened twice before,,,so I'll will keep watch. Thanks for the advice,,,,,,,,,
1. Wheel Bearing/Speed Sensor failure.
2. Wiring harness failure.
3. AWD Control Valve Failure. (Thanks Dan Tucker, Pine Bluff, AR)
I was lucky enough to have BOTH 1 and 2 on my wife's 03 RDV. Left Rear bearing was SHOT - the speed sensor cover had rusted through. Put on the new bearing and when you applied the brakes, the anti-lock would kick in - even under light braking. I still had a problem.
So I went after electrical - it seemed logical, since the AWD Disable light would initially go off (the computer does a diagnostic every time the car is started, and apparently if it doesn't get a good signal from ALL wheel sensors - it sets the light)
Took the connector from the wheel bearing I had just replaced and soldered it to the end of a $1.00 extension cord (you need at least 9 ft). With the circuit energized, the power side of the plug should show a consistent carrier signal - mine was 4.75 volts to ground. You can also OHM them to the ABS computer connector - all connectors should ohm less than 10 (see where the extension cord comes in handy??)
After all 4 wheels run through ohms and volts - found the left front speed sensor power line broken off right at the connector. With some choice words and REALLY lucky connector work - wire reconnected and problem solved.
If you are unlucky enough to have the control valve - the part number is 88896067 and is $107 plus shipping from gmpartsdirect. You'll also be out about $75 for versatrak fluid. Pretty easy to change, I am told.
The car has 92,000 on it and the bearing was original. Don't know the age of the other 3 bearings, but I have a spare rear (from my Aurora) when it goes.
One other good thing from this - the rear end groaning with parking lot maneuvers seems to have gone away with the installation of the new bearing.
Next stop - air compressor and self leveling.
When the dealer ran the diagnostics for my miss problem - they alterted me to a Crank Position Sensor issue. I changed them (2 on a Northstar) about a month ago and not one stall or hiccup from the engine since. The miss was cured with a new coil pack.
You might have the CKS and a Camshaft circuit problem.
Buick Rendezvous Repair Manuals (Set)link title
Widespread electrical "gremlins" like that usually tie back to the most common of power sources in a car, the battery. I would start by making sure the connections at the battery terminals are solid, tight, and clean. Inspect battery for any evidence of leaking/cracks in its plastic case.
For some reason that switch does not work. The only way that I can open the liftgate is with the remote.
I tried opening the cover (inside the liftgate) for the tail bulb replacement and found out that there is a yellow/black wire with a 2-pin socket at its end hanging there.
It seems like that this wire has come lose of the switch and needs to be plugged back in.
Now my question is that does anyone know how to remove the panel inside the liftgate to access that switch from inside.
If I just remove the panel covering the Tail Lights, that is too high for any work to be performed on the liftgate exterior switch. It seems like the whole panel at the bottom of liftgate needs to be removed.
All your answers will be greatly appreciated.
Please Help!
I think if you were to disconnect the negative battery terminal for a little while (10 min might do it, overnight might be better) that might clear the warning.
If it's just the buttons themselves, they look pretty easy to replace. If you bought a set from your local used auto parts store (aka "junkyard") it probably is something a friend / mechanic could replace at a fairly low cost.
The bearings where under warranty for me.
Whether you get help from GM on the problem or not depends very largely on your relationship with the dealer. You'd need to talk to your service manager, as he's the one that can dip into some discretionary money for you. Be polite but firm in your request. If you have given them business over the years in maintenance work, and/or have bought other cars from this dealer before or since, you're more likely to get help.
We bought an 2002 Buick Rendezvous for 13000 tax included the dealer also gave us 2 years warranty for engine transmission. but this car driven this family out of our minds. It runs great... when it runs. Sometimes it will not turn on, tries to turn over, but doesn't get gas. This has been happening more frequently and we are unsure what the problem is. My guess is the connection from the fuel pump not getting gas to start up.
This problem has left our family with newborn out in the winter cold evenings many times, including on way home from grocery.
Got any suggestions, please reply.
did fail and we had to have our dealership remove our engine to get to and repair it. They charged over $900.00 in labor JUST TO GET TO THAT SEAL! My car is about 55,000 miles and I can't count how many times it's been in the shop. I have only had it repaired at the dealership where I purchased it so you think they would be able to repair their own vehicle. They have had it for 2 days now and all they can tell me is that I need a Fourth Battery! I know all cars have problems, but when you purchase a car new, you think it will run for at least 10 years. I feel cheated. I have Chronic Asthma and I am terrified I am going to get stranded picking up my kids from school one day. This time of year just being outside puts my health in danger, and until I get my car back I'm stuck walking my kids to school and back. Thanks, Buick.
Sorry you have had all these problems. I grew up in a "Buick" family and never saw that many issues on all the cars put together, much less one. I feel very bad for the stress it's caused you.
My advice is that you ask to see the sales manager, sit down in his office, and explain how much hassle and cost you've been through, and remind him/her that you've used the dealer exclusively for repairs and maintenance. That will go a LONG way! Each dealer has "discretionary" money from GM that they can use towards good customers for cases like these. And 55,000 miles is not much, reiterate that all this shouldn't be happening at this mileage.
If you have a good dealer, he will offer to assist with the bill. I hope he is honest and caring. Be polite but be firm, ask for help with the bill. And do this BEFORE you go to pick up the car from repairs, not after the bill is handed to you. (Ideally this discussion would have happened before the repairs had started, because you would have had some leverage in the negotiation. You could have taken it elsewhere if he said no, even another dealer.)
From a long line of Buicks....
Brian
(66 Special, 74 Century, 81 Regal, 83 Regal, 89 Regal, 97 Century... and currently 2007 Rendezvous)
Oh, and I just had my AWD disable and ABS/anti-lock brakes lights come back on only 2 months after having this fixed at dealer for 3rd time. Buick, what a classy company..... NOT!
Was the 2002 Rendezvous buggy? Yes.
Do foreign automakers ever make a buggy model? You bet.
I think the fact that GM gave you a 50,000 mile extension at the bumper-to-bumper level is quite honorable on their part. That is a LOT of miles!
I could be wrong, but I think your problems are actually a combination of a buggy vehicle AND BAD SERVICE. Have you tried another Buick dealer? If you don't have another one convenient, next choice would be Pontiac due to the similarities between Aztek and Rendezvous. But any GM dealer should be able to work on your car.
My reasoning for blaming the dealer in large part: The later Rendezvous are reliable. That proves GM found the problems and updated the parts to fix the problems in later years. Those updated parts are available, and are in fact the ONLY parts GM would ship to your dealer for repairs! So if you are getting updated parts, and the problems come back, maybe it's the technicians who are not doing a quality job causing you repeated failures.
I will say the techs at my closest Buick dealership have shown a lot of incompetence and I will be trying another dealer soon.
I wish you the best of luck with your next vehicle, no matter the make!
All the best-
Brian
Will get back to the forum after having it checked out.
Typically a no-start HOT condition is an electrical problem. Something electronic is on the fritz once hot.
Does the engine turn over when this is happening? If it's trying to start but won't.... I'd look at the ignition module and ignition coils first, then maybe ECM or crankshaft position sensor.
If the engine isn't even turning over when you turn the key.... that would point to starter first, then maybe battery....
Hope this helps! Either way, if your mechanic is looking at the cooling system for a no-start problem, I'd be looking for a new mechanic!
Good luck!