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Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?
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Comments
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Bror: The Pure One filter which will fit your '95 Civic is a Pure One PL 24458. Same head, same relef setting. It's almost an inch longer.
Al
Zr2rando, what vehicle is getting that Castrol Plus filter? If the case is a good size (the size of OEM or larger) I bet the vehicle is better off with it. I put one on my Honda tractor (same part # as most Honda automobiles!) and I'll be sure to hack it apart when it comes off next year.
I buy Hastings filters from the site that armtdm cited after I was unable to find a local dealer.
--- Bror Jace
This is cool, we are picking these things to death! we should open a store I'm telling you!
ARMTDM, I tried that site but must have gotten something wrong, could you put it out here again?
Where'd I put that tequila...there it is...see y'all in a little bit.
Rando
tom
The nut on the Hard Driver I think is a libility rather then a plus. Some filter wrenches do not fit this design and a socket may not be able to get into the space.
tom
We do not have a multi-pass J1858 beta ratio for the Ultraguard Gold Oil Filter. However, the
results of the Single Pass Efficiency test (Modified J1858) show the Ultraguard Gold filter to have
a Beta ratio for 10-micron particles of 50. The Beta ratio is simply a ratio of the following:
(The # of particles of a particular size (in microns) measured upstream of the filter)
(Divided by)
(The # of particles of the same size (in microns) measured downstream of the filter)
Since the Ultraguard Gold filter is 98% efficient for 10 micron particles (i.e. for every one
hundred 10-micron particles going into the filter, 98 are trapped by the filter), the Beta ratio
would be 100/2 = 50. The Duraguard Silver and the Duraguard oil filters also each have a beta ratio
of 50. However, the Duraguard Silver is 98% efficient at 15-20 microns while the Duraguard is 98%
efficient at 25 microns.
For the modified J1858 test, we actually flow fluid through the filter continuously, and add test
dust upstream of the filter. We only run the test for 30 minutes total and do not allow the filter
to reach termination pressure (The pressure that the filter is considered plugged -- 8 PSI
differential). We take upstream and downstream fluid samples at specified intervals (5, 10, 15 ...
minutes), and do our particle count analysis on each sample to determine the efficiencies for the
different particle sizes. The efficiency results from each sample are then averaged to determine
the efficiency number that we use.
J806 test is gravimetric (You actually weigh the test dust instead of counting particles of a
particular size, therefore you can not know how many particles of any particular size are captured).
We ran this same 806 test on the Ultraguard, and the results are posted on the website. We refer to
this test as Weighted Average Efficiency.
Thank you for your interest in ACDelco.
ACDelco Customer Assistance
Original message follows:
-------------------------
as at some size, the particles are too small to damage the engine.
I though anything under 35 microns was not a problem.
Assuming the Hastings filters I have are as well made as the Baldwin filter I cut up a decade ago, I'll feel perfectly justified in sticking with them and paying $5 (delivered) per cartridge. >:^)
--- Bror Jace
Anyway, I can't speak for all Toyota filters, but the Toyota 90915-YZZB5 for my Tundra V8 is made by Denso in Japan. Says so on the filter. That is the filter I used initially on my truck, but I have since switched to the Bosch Premium filter after doing a little research.
The Bosch filter is made by Champion Labs, the same maker of the Mobil 1 oil filters. The Bosch filter also uses a semi-synthetic filter media, has nearly identical filtering capabilities as the Mobil 1, and looks identical internally to a comparable Mobil 1 oil filter. The main difference is the price. The Bosch filter is about half the price of the Mobil 1. And the Bosch is conveniently available at AutoZone (so is the Mobil 1), whereas I had to get the Toyota filter at the dealer which can be a pain because of my work schedule.
I'm also running a Bosch filter on my 1984 Honda CB700SC motorcycle with good results. The last time I checked, the local Honda dealer wanted $14 for a Honda filter, so I started looking for alternatives. Turns out the oil filter to fit a 1984 Honda Prelude is the same size in all respects and has the same bypass valve relief pressure as my motorcycle oil filter. So, I got the Bosch filter for the 1984 Honda Prelude for about $5.00 and all is well with my motorcycle.
If I remember properly I really couldn't tell a great deal of difference between any Champion Labs products. The Bosch seemed about as good as the Mobil 1, but then the Deutsch and STP filters looked about as good as the Bosch. I'm sure that the MiniMopar study said that the construction of the Mobil 1 filter was heavier along with the filtering media, and that even then some splitting accidents occured, but I can't remember that being evident in looking at the disassembled samples.
That's certainly not the case with the different types of Pure filters and the AC Delco filter had looser but deeper pleated filtering media, but all Champion Labs filters looked pretty much the same to me.
Also, looking at drawings at K-Mart I was unable to see much difference in their Castrol filter and the K-Mart (Penske) brand. Both have a rather typical Wix look to them. Am I missing something here? Is the filtering media, if not the construction different?
Other folks in our company have more contact with Wix than I do. Even if I'm working on something for Wix, I often don't know which filter they are using the sheet for.
I've told everyone before that the customers often take a grade we are already selling them and put it in a different filter. If it works OK, then they most likely wouldn't even tell us that they have done it. We would just see a new size that we have to cut that grade into on our slitter. Or, maybe even the same slit width that they are already ordering would work for that new application, if the filter design requires the same height in the cartridge.
So, in this case, I just don't know. Sorry.
tom
I compared it to a AC filter (Walmart version).(I am using a PureOne this time..
The Castrol paper is obviously thicker, the Castrol cannister 'visually' seems thinner, the length of the Castrol cartridge is shorter than the AC, the pleats are fewer and deeper than the AC, the cartridge had been compressed by the tensioner spring so the pleats showed some compression deformity (not bad, but obviously a tight fit), the Castrol has a separate spacer to separate the anti-backflow valve from the cartridge which sits on the cartridge metal to metal...the cartridge has a raised pattern pressed into the endcap at that point which looks like keeps the spacer from sitting flush against it...looks like it may let a little oil through there which would be bypassing the element but given the tension probably is not a major factor...
I change oil at 3k and this time the oil was definitely dark, seemed darker than normal,,,BUT,,,,I started using Havoline this time also, used CastrolGTX up until now, could be that the Havoline detergents are cleaning up stuff that the Castrol was leaving behind.. Maybe so but it looks like the filter started bypassing before I changed it , or if it didn't bypass then the better looking paper doesn't actually filter any better than the normal paper?....I think I am leaning towards using normal filters (AC in this case) which are not as efficient at the beginning but don't seem to bypass at all, and just let the normal carbon/debris just add to the paper media to increase efficiency by the time the filter is changed anyway....
any thoughts folks?
If you're using MOBIL1 I think you're doing good to change filter midway, I learned back in school (WAR EAGLE!) that you need to filter as much as neccessary but no more due to back pressure constraints..(reduced flow)....sometimes a mediocre filter is better in the big picture...the dirt in the filter adds efficiency(restriction) after the filter gets a little used...good example my water filter under my house..or the air filter for the furnace..
I'm also wondering if the Havoline oil is cleaning up stuff left from the Castrol though...I'll see after a couple k miles on the new change
hear from ya shortly
Rando
Everybody doin' OK?
tom
Rando
1998 Jeep Cherokee with I6 4.0L motor. I bought it used with 50K miles on it so I'm not sure of it's maintenece record though it looks as if the previous owner took good care of it.
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/OilFilterConversion/OilFilterConversion.htm
I found this site that indicates I can use the Mobile One M1-301 instead of the specified and smaller M1-204. I have not been able to find all of the specs such as bypass valve opening pressure, but am assuming that it will be close enough. I hate assuming though.
The question, is there any reason not to run the larger filter?
The reasons why I want to run a larger filter. I am going to run Mobile One synthetic oil. I have heard that it will clean some of the deposits out of the engine. The larger filter will have more capacity for the debris and should also flow better.
I tried to cross reference those filters to a Pure One Filter:
http://www.pureoil.com/NewFiles/ecat_frame.htm
No matches. PL14670 is the Pure One filter for your vehicle. If you get to an auto parts store you can get the Purolator Book and go to page 930 and look for another filter with the same head and relief specs. I'll check it out today if I get a chance.
thanks
Later
Al
-David