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Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?
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As most know Allied Signal owned FRAM. They have just recently sold it to Honeywell. It remains to be seen what changes the new managment have or will put into play.
Yep Allied Signal is a very interesting organization.
I would think that the time you would need an exceptional filter would be if you were doing extended drains. If you are changing at say 5k mile intervals, then the oil change is like an oil filter. But if you are going 25k miles between changes with synthetic, then the filter is really taking the place of the changes in terms of keeping the oil free of debris. Do you think this is the case?
I am just wondering, if I am going to change my oil every 5k miles using Mobil 1 oil, is there much advantage to using a Mobil 1 oil filter over a Ford provided Motorcraft filter?
A thicker steel canister.
A synthetic filter media vs a paper one.
Greater dirt holding capacity.
Filtering efficiency down to 10 microns.
Tons of available SAE information and data from Mobil vs only generalizations from Ford.
Sexy gray painted canister vs white.
Silicon valves on the full line, not select few.
3X's the cost of a Ford.
Amsoil,Pureone, Hastings, and AC Delco Ultra pureists might disagree, but it's hard to find a better filter than M1.
Cynics say your car can't tell the difference.
Fleedwoods: I think you hit it on the head too. And the little ole Walmart SuperTech @ $1.97 may be the best buy out of the whole bunch. But you still need to watch each application carefully. For example, the SuperTech filter for my Maxmia is a tiny 6607 model # (I think). Aint much bigger than a golf ball. Honest. So in that case, I'd choose the Champion-build STP, Bosch or (as I actually do) the Mobil One filter in stead. I even prefer all those over the Nissan OEM. If SuperTech had an oem-sized application for a Nissan, I'd have to rethink what I do. Now on my Ford vehicles, I happen to like the way Ford locates the by-pass valve at the opening. I haven't found any Champion-built filter that does the same. They all appear to be at the opposite end of the filter. Call me picky, but for that single reason I stick with a Motorcraft brand. The irony is that if you find one of the older SuperTech filters (blue box, not the new black ones) that fits a Ford, say a SuperTech 2A that cross references with a Ford FL-820S, the old SuperTech filter had the valve at the opening. But it got moved with the newer line. Darn!
You can drive youself nuts trying to figure out which filter is the best. Whether my choices are the best, I don't know. But I don't worry about it either anymore. Following these posts now is just entertainment!!!!
By the way, how did you bold print your little thingamajiggy, whatshamacallit, dohinky:
by-pass filter would help,I use the amsoil one,
this goes down to 1 micron (approx).It also increases oil capacity from 1 to 3 qts. depending
on which element you use.On small engines with a
4 qt. capacity that makes a difference.The other
one I know of is the one that uses the toilet paper in a canister,they can be found on ebay.
just thought I would throw this out there and see
what opinions come back.
Wix, Purolator, Hastings, even a few select Fram models (like the Tough Guard), and if you're so inclined, By-pass setups, are all decent choices too.
The is no Holy Grail of oil filters. 2 different people driving the same car, using 2 different filters can both be right.
a clogged or restricted filter=an oil starved engine.
You must have passed over my posts about preoilers and oil bypass filtering and the reference to Amsoil vendors that sell them. If 60% of the engine wear happens at start up and double filtering removes the other 30-40% (not totalling 100%) DUE to particle size and or oil filter ceasing to filter,(ie bypass value functioning) that as a minimum could give an engine about double the life, i.e. (250k range x2) So for a lack in 100-400 dollars in aftermarket products/systems, engines wear down twice as fast as they should.
So that to encapsulate, 1. synthetic oil, (Mobil One, Redline, Amsoil)2. bypass oil filtering system (two filters: main and bypass filters) 3. preoilers (preoiling surfaces whose oil has drained due to shutdown, app decrease in long range wear=60%)And that gives the tools for long distance mileage engine longevity.
First of all there is no doubt that the Mobil One is the better filter than the Ford Motorcraft. That being said one needs to evaluate whether or not the price performance ratio is a concern.
A personal example on a high performance machine: Corvette Z06. The stock filter is a AC Delco PF44 (app $ 2) synthetic media oil filter. This is the oil filter that has been tested and certified thru GM engineering and testing procedures for "statisticallly, the longest life" Mobil One makes a great filter application for this also( app $10-12) . As does AC Delco under the name ULTRA guard UPF44 (app$ 8-10) Upon doing research on the WALLY Mart application Super Tech (app 1.97), LO and behold the AC Delco Ultra guard (which as been discontinued for my application) HAS the same specs as the Wally Mart Super Tech application. When you put them out SIDE by side ONLY the graphics are different! So in my personal research AC Delco PF44 and/or Wally Mart Super Tech are my choices.
(The Wally Mart is made by Champion Labs. The discontinued AC Delco UPF44 points to Champion Labs. The Mobil filter seems to be made by Champion Labs.)
Americanflag: You want the best? Go with Mobil One and don't look back.
And what is the additional cost of the mobil 1 filter? $12 Mobil 1 - $3 Motorcraft = $9 increased cost. $9 X 3 oil changes per year = increased marginal cost of $27 per year. Cost of vehicle is $30,000 including financing costs. I think I'll use the best, and so far I have been very happy with the Mobil 1 (5W-30) oil and the company's candid advice.
Jack
my 92 mirage would be totalled if a shopping cart hit it. LOL
I haven't had a chance to read all the post but hope to get around to it.
I always thought Fram was a good oil filter brand.
Then I read the oil filter study and looked for an alternative.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
I didn't find one of the recommended filters locally without doubling or tripling the price I pay now. I am sticking with Fram for now.
I have 198,000 miles and have been using the cheapo Fram filter with castrol 10wX30 for as long as I can remember. Doesn't seem to burn any oil. It smokes occasionally on startup and take off. I am kind of lazy with the 3,000 mile changes and it has been driven hard. I think I will personally know when this engine goes because I am keeping the truck until it does.
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OTOH, why pay three times as much for something that is no better. The SuperTechs appear to me to be as good as any commonly available filter out there.
If there is something better it would be in the $12 to $15 range, or a commercial filtering system.
I will look into supertechs. I don't care to ever go inside a wal-mart, so I would have to be able to find supertechs somewhere else.
I guess the 6X range is what I meant. I was wanting to avoid spending $12 vs the $2 I pay now. It was about a year ago when I looked at other filters. Right now I am sticking with what has worked for me. I don't want to spend more money if I don't have to.
"I guess I will have to put my vote towards filters not really making a difference."
Based upon my cutting open too many filters and never seeing any evidence that they are full or plugged up (or even trapping dirt and wear metals) etc I feel that if you change your oil every 3000 miles it doesn't make any differnece what you use for a filter, in fact, IMO, no filter will produce over 100,000 miles in todays engines. Oil does all the work, filters are a useless appendage only good for catastrophic events.
I'd suggest then that you go to Autozone and get an STP at about $3. They have Bosch also, but they are no better than the STP's and cost 50% to 100% more. Personally, I'd swallow that grudge and slip into and out of Wal-Mart before anybody saw me. It'll save you about 33% on an excellent filter.
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armtdm
" filters are a useless appendage only good for catastrophic events."
Darn cheap catastrophy insurance at about $4 to $6 a year. If you keep stray metallic fragments out of other parts it can save a lot of money from something going south all of a sudden.
I did hear from someone that with today’s engines and roads that you don't need to change filters. I agree that it is cheap insurance and will continue to change my filters.
Although, I think it would be a fun experiment to run without changing the filter. I may have to try it. Not on my Jeep of course, but my 13 year old truck I may not mind doing it. I would think the only way to really know the condition of the engine is by taking it apart?
Anybody want to sponsor me?
I've used Mobil 1 filters before and feel they are probably among the best filters available. But I'm not sure if they are really worth the extra money, and I don't use them any more.
Also, how do I get an oil analysis, I am getting interested. Guess I must be becoming a nerd (uh, sorry, no offense, guys...0
Also, how do I get an oil analysis, I am getting interested. Guess I must be becoming a nerd (uh, sorry, no offense, guys...)
Should I really spend $18 dollars to see if I can save $10 on an oil filter? Have you seen Frank Hunt's filter study? He has taken it offline right now because of very high traffic. I made my decision that the Mobil1 is superior based on his study and am willing to spend a few extra pennies to make sure my oil remains as clean as it can be so that I can maximize the life of my oil. This notion that the filter does nothing is insane. What evidence is there that supports that?