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Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?
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If that is not pioneering, I don't know what is, Noobie, except maybe installing your own after market hydrogen fuel cell or perhaps a rocket booster?
Anyway, I would be very interested to hear of your oil analysis results and I applaud the efforts you are taking to maintain your engine. If you have read any of my past posts, then you know I also take this seriously. I would also like to know what you learn about pre-oilers.
4000 mi. should roll around in early to mid April. I'll keep you posted.
-David
Does anyone know what type of filter they use? Hope it's not FRAM.
http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/showthread.php?s=de2987f3ea11f7e45- 52f0012002d2a66&threadid=9528
The Toyota filters are especially fascinating.
Gee I don't know, but if they use the Super Tech filter that is real good!!
should have been in the "out of work comedian"
section.
Those are some of the reasons so many of us do our own oil and filter changes.
As to filters, well, more and more evidence seems to be cropping up that it makes no diff what you use or how often they are changed, they basically do nothing as the particle size is too small to capure and th eoil holds it in suspension and is doing all the work.
Cut one open after your next change. If you expect to see a ton of gunk and particles you will be surprised to see nothing there (assuming that you have not used a cleanign agent in the oil)
Not having microscopic vision, I'll stick with the indirect evidence approach, based on science.
However, with regard to dealer oil changes, I still think you are in better hands with the dealer than with Jiffy Lube. First, my dealer lets me watch the oil change. I like that. Second, at least the dealer will use the oil grade called for by your car, not a standard 10W-30 for everyone.
Well, wait. If your dealer is Ford or Honda, and that means they give you 5W-20, maybe you are better off with Jiffy Lube.
And I hear about oil analysis showing 5W-20 is okay. What is it really showing? The oil was thin when it was new and now it is still thin as water. Great, I'm convinced LOL.
In the case of the Super Tech (AC Delco PF44), not only are they synthetic, but are made by Champion Labs. The information is right on the box!! They meet the standard for the AC Delco premium ULTRA guard or UPF44 which is a neck and neck competitor of the Mobil One filter.
Thanks,
Ken
I think your conclusion is pretty well on the mark. I mean why would you engineer a filter differently EXCEPT for the size issue?
I also have a TLC (whose filter requirement was down sized by the OEM) that basically got down sized from a Fram PH8A filter to a AC Delco PF53 application. (bigger than a softball size to slightly smaller than a baseball size. Frankly other than a PH8A filter requiring almost a half quart more oil than the PF53 there is virtually no discernible operating difference. That being so I think the manufacturers opted for the economy of scale and selling more and having to inventory less sizes. (faster inventory turns)
I also have a PF44 application and in my estimation, not only is the SuperTech equivalent size (PF44, FRAM 2.50-6 dollars etc) cheaper (1.97), but the filter is on par with the AC Delco UPF44 (premium filter) at $8.00. (Mobil One filter competitor $9-13.)
I for one, see a greater benefit here. In my case, a 4 to one savings and premium quality for commodity pricing ! I like that!
ROTFLMAO
For comparison-Purolator is about .009. That's why I don't use the Purolators.
What I am leading to is that if you have an engine that once used a bigger filter and the car maker went to a smaller filter for a different engine in their lineup and decided to use the smaller filter in other engines in their lineup to simplify the inventory, then you get stuck with a smaller than ideal filter. BUT if the engine always used that filter from the beginning be careful, as there is a lot more to a filter than base diameter. Hope this helps explain how this happens, sorry for rambling on. Ed.