Hyundai Elantra Prices Paid and Buying Experience

backy

What's the price w/o the taxes, tags, and fees? We don't know what those are in your location.

hellie1

Great experience with my dealership (Fairfax Hyundai) this past week. Ended up purchasing the GLS, demo model that had everything I wanted (sunroof, CD player, ABS, silver) OTD price was $12,500. They really worked with me, I ended up with a higher interest rate due to small credit history and they called back the next day to refinance at a 5% drop.

Needless to say I'm happy in my Elantra and look forward to driving it for many years:)

sisyphus

The price before the taxes, tags, and fees is $12,200.

backy

Invoice on a GLS automatic with pkg 1 (i.e. no options) is $13,629, so if you qualify only for the $1500 rebate and no others, that is a good price, just a few bucks over invoice.

jmdchien

I am about to purchase an Elantra GT Hatchback with package 8. Was quoted 14600 plus TTL. Fair price? Thanks.

jmdchien

After a long research, my mind is setting on Elantra GT 5dr with package 8. Got a quote for 14,600 plus TTL. Don't know if this is a fair price or not. I am in Houston Texas.Hopefully, I can drive one in the next few days. Please share some ideas, how much room for price negociation? Thanks.

cecropia

If the car you are looking at is an automatic, $14,600 (plus TTL) seems like a good price. After all, that's $1,675 below the posted invoice price for that package (which is $16,275).

I bought a manual GT in February with Package 7 (that's with moonroof only) for $12,650 before TTL.

But the MSRP for the GT you are considering, with its automatic transmission and its Package 8 moonroof, anti-lock brakes and traction control , is about $1,400 more . So $14,600 is in the ballpark. Especially considering that the manufacturer's rebate on the Elantra in February was (as I recall) about $500 more than the current $1,500.

My feeling is that, with some persistence, you might be able to shave $150-$200 off the $14,600 price-- but probably not much more.

doohickie

What about tranny? AT or MT? Assuming MT, your MSRP is $14,849, Options are $1445 & Freight is $545 for a total of $16,839 (based on my zip code; YMMV). They have rebates currently of $1500 dollars off until July 4 for a total of $15,339. Edmunds quotes a true market value of $14,232. So, yeah, I think $14,600 is definitely in the ballpark, but there may still be a little wiggle room. You may want to go to Hyundai's site and "Build Your Own" to see how it shakes out with your zip code.

doohickie

Buy the silver one; it won't look that bad and you'll get used to it. Think of it this way: You see the interior more when your driving anyway!

doohickie

Considering an Elantra. Went to West Loop Hyundai on Hwy 183 & Camp Bowie West (the old West Loop Dodge). I liked the salesman in that he very much let me take the lead and didn't try to pump me for information. He answered most of my questions, but thought the Elantra would be all-new starting in November 05 (which according to these boards is almost a year ahead of time). Anyway, does anyone have experience with West Loop Hyundai (or other dealers in the Manuel Auto Group)? Any complaints? What about other Tarrant County Hyundai dealers? Any recommendations?

I just found out Fort Worth just became the 19th largest city in the U.S. Surely someone else from Cowtown reads these boards....

moodgard

After a lot of negotiations, I asked for 14,000 OTD, and was offered 14,800 OTD. Salesman said he'll talk to manager & call back, but didn't call back - so there's at least one p***ed off salesman out there tonight.

There was some confusion over pkg 8 and dest. fees on the GT auto. My offer, looking at invoice etc, is about 12,750 before taxes etc.. His offer works out close to 13,500 before taxes etc.

I'm done with this for now, too much number-crunching!

doohickie

I will probably go back and forth several times before I buy since I don't plan on buying for a few months yet, but I test drove two cars today: The Spectra5 and the Elantra 5 door (although not GT). I was kind of disappointed by both. I mean, they are okay cars, but the interior materials and design still seemed kind of second-rate, and the ride of both left a lot to be desired. The most disconcerting aspect of the ride of both cars was that when I hit 70 mph I felt the "Elantra shimmy" discussed elswhere on this thread.... It was almost comical- I felt the shimmy with the Spectra5 and glanced at the speedo: 70. Same thing with the Elantra. I'm driving a Ford Aspire with 115,000 miles and it rides more smoothly at freeway speeds than either of those two cars, brand new. Bummer.

I was looking around with my son (he's a freshman in high school; this purchase will likely be the car he takes college). After looking at the Spectra5, the Elantra & the Suzuki Aerio & Reno, we went over to the Scion dealer, since I've been looking at the xA. While there we decided to check out all the Scions. If it was just for me, I would prefer the tC coupe.... very very nice, especially for the price, about $17k, including a two-pane sunroof. I figured we would be settling on the xA, and my son saw the xB. He asked, "What's *that*?" so we had the salesman open it up for us. He got in and he was sold, and I have to admit that I was too. There is just SO MUCH room in there, and the materials used on the Scion interiors just seem to be better quality than the Korean models. The auto writers say the new Korean models are up there with the Japanese models. The auto writers lie.

I guess I can save some money up front buying Korean, but the Scions get much, much better gas mileage. I haven't driven the xB, so that could change my mind, but my other son's 95 Escort with 110,000 miles rides a lot better than any of the Korean choices... and has much better acceleration.

backy

Everyone is entitled to his opinion, but Hyundais including the Elantra are often praised for their interior fit and finish. I doubt if all these publications, which include Consumer Reports, lie about that. The Elantra's interior is dated (almost five years old) but the Spectra's is quite nice I think, more than on a par with comparable models from other makes. But if you prefer the xB (I can't get past the boxy styling myself) go for it.

doohickie

Here's what got me on the Hyundai and Kia with respect to interior finish: The carpeting. I looks like the kind of stuff that most car companies use to line trunks with. In the Kia especially it was disconcerting because it was colored a light grey. It didn't look like it would last and seemed like it would show every stain. Maybe the rest of the interiors are better (I had a favorable impression before my test drive), but the carpets ruined it for me. I will grant that a similar material was used in the Scions, but it just seemed like a better grade of stuff (thicker).

I know what you mean about the xB boxy look. I kind of hate it myself, but it's *so* nice on the inside, I am willing to consider it. Aesthetically, it's ugly outside. Inside, it's so functional (I have three six footers in my family), I almost want to cry.

There are three aspects to the Elantra and Spectra's ride qualities that turned me off: 1) NO acceleration off the line. Lean into the accelerator...wait until the engine winds up a bit..listen to the rpms finally kick in as you slowly start to roll...then finally get some decent acceleration. Way too long. My son's Escort Wagon 1.9L is a LOT quicker from a dead stop. 2) Corner lean. Both cars felt like they would tip over. Again, compared to the Escort Wagon with 110,000 miles, I would take the Escort. Sport-tuned suspension in the Spectra5? Really?!? 3) The shimmy that was discussed on this board. I have driven precisely two cars built on the Elantra chassis, and both of them had it. They felt identical on the freeway, and both had a shimmy at 70 mph. There is debate as to whether this is a common problem in these cars. It may or may not be common, but it happens enough that Hyundai/Kia should FIX it.

Maybe my Escort Wagon has trained me to like Fords. The Focus is starting to look more attractive. I drove that and it didn't stand out at all. Maybe that's a good thing.

I do appreciate the time you've taken to respond to my posts, backy... and maybe I'll change my mind before I buy. But the Korean cars are not my preference at this point. I really *wanted* to like them, but I was disappointed.

smith20

1) NO acceleration off the line. Lean into the accelerator...wait until the engine winds up a bit..listen to the rpms finally kick in as you slowly start to roll...then finally get some decent acceleration. Way too long. My son's Escort Wagon 1.9L is a LOT quicker from a dead stop.

I respect your opinions, but my wife and I have a 1997 Ford Escort and a 2004 Elantra GT hatchback. We switch cars about once a month so we can both drive the "new" car and I have to disagree on this point. I don't get the same impression you got that an Escort is a dragster compared to the Elantra. The big difference I notice is the Escort engine is noisy compared to the Elantra both during acceleration and cruising. Maybe the noise gives a perception of speed. Also, I haven't driven it, but I would guess the Scion xB and its 1.5 liter, 108hp engine isn't exactly going to rocket you off the line either.

Anyway, I know this is off-topic. I'll stop. I just wanted to input my reaction to the Escort / Elantra comparison.

doohickie

Having slept on it, I'm a little more philosphical this morning. It could be that I know what to expect out of my Escort and Aspire. They lean, they are not pocket rockets, etc., but they are, at least to me, predictable. Maybe with increased driving, the Elantra would feel better. My sense was that first gear on the Escort AT is lower than the first gear on the Elantra AT... or maybe the Elantra 2.0 makes its torque at higher rpms. When I stomp on the accelerator of the Escort, it starts moving right away, while there was a lag to the Elantra. It seemed worse from a dead stop than from a rolling stop. If I could roll into it (say, like a left-hand turn), it responded much better. Like I said, with increased driving, these are the kinds of things that become instinctive. If you switch between the two models, maybe you're already hardwared to adjust for each.

smith20

My sense was that first gear on the Escort AT is lower than the first gear on the Elantra AT... or maybe the Elantra 2.0 makes its torque at higher rpms.

This could be true, I wouldn't argue these points at all . . . I just posted in reaction to the accenting of the word "LOT".

backy

The Elantra's carpeting IS thin, particularly on the GLS (the GTs seems a little thicker to me). But since I have the OEM floor mats, the thin carpeting has been a non-issue for me as all the wear is on the floor mats. The carpeting still looks brand-new. Even the nearly five-year-old floor mats on my GLS are still doing pretty good, with a little wear under the heel on the driver's side and some tar spots the only issues.

On the shimmy, the thing to do if you do decide to revisit the Elantra or Spectra is to buy a car that doesn't demonstrate that behavior. I've driven about a dozen of them over the years and none of them have had a shimmy, including the two Elantras I own. So you can find them.

I replied to the acceleration issue on another discussion, since you cross-posted.

lightsearcher3

I am writing from the central part of Maryland between Baltimore and Washington -- (a distance of 17 miles separates the two beltways).

In a minute I will write-up and then post here a description of the great rock-bottom price I negotiated -- and successfully closed -- on a 2005 Elantra (Trim Package #1) this afternoon, July 1st, 2005.

Surely there are MANY other viewers of this forum -- like me! -- trying to go through all the posts here with a fine-tooth comb in preparation for deciding on a rock-bottom number to pitch to a local dealer.

Because of that, please indulge me in that I have three important big fat gripes:

-- Buying reports that you post here about your recent purchase are absolutely USELESS unless all the relevant details are included -- Hatchback vs. 4-door sedan; non-GT or GT, manual transmission vs. automatic transmission, and Trim Package Number! -- Plus it is very helpful (but I guess not essential) to have an indication of the portion of the out-the-door price that went to taxes and documentation fees, etc.

MAYBE THE MODERATOR can post a suggestion that asks people to list ALL the relevant details of their new car as cited above. (Please do it!)

-- I wish that posts here would adhere more strictly, tightly, and narrowly to the limited and stated topic -- PRICES PAID and BUYING EXPERIENCE.

-- This last one's asking a lot, but people answering other people's posts should RE-CITE the buying details of the post they are responding to. It's hard as heck to go back and find the previous post they are referencing.

Now with great enjoyment I will write and post an account of my "Prices Paid and Buying Experience"

moodgard

Firstly, congratulations on your 2005 Elantra deal.

I can see your post is well-intentioned, sure, occasionally a post here and there strays off just pricing & buying experience. I suppose it's ok to post a gripe post here, unless there's a gripe forum (I haven't checked). As long as we are griping, it would have been easier for me if you numbered your gripes instead of placing -- in front; there are other -- 's in your post, and I couldn't tell what's what.

1. You're right about full details on the purchase, GT, auto, 4dr/5dr, options. Price breakdowns. But when it's not clear, seems people have asked and received responses. As long as I am doing research, I don't mind having to go to a little extra trouble and look up post trails. Some posts that aren't strictly about pricing & buying have helped me learn a bit more about what to look for on the vehicles, and can be an unexpected bonus. Who knows what piece of information may help the next buyer?

2. Kinda self-defeating, huh?

3. I like the threading feature when specific topics are replied to; when starting with the first post, I can clearly see the subsequent trail. Re-citing the post isn't a bad idea, if it's clearly demarked, but can easily get confusing if you can't distinguish the original post and the response.

Forgive my sarcasm, but what does the 17 mile separation between your two beltways have to do with Pricing & Buying Experiences, any more than Tom Cruise's Scientology?

lightsearcher3

> Forgive my sarcasm, but what does the 17 mile separation
> between your two beltways have to do with Pricing & Buying
> Experiences, any more than Tom Cruise's Scientology?

That is an informal way to identify the geographic U.S. location
where this particular purchase occured.

-- Matt Lauer

PS -- Too late to write up my account now; will do over weekend.

averigejoe

Hope you're enjoying your Elantra.
It's been about 24 hours. That's a long minute.

spohio

just purchased an Elantra GLS with automatic and package 5 (cruise, CD and sunroof). The MSRP was $16,179.... out the door price was $12,700. The worked out to about $2300 discount from the dealer's pocket, I also used the $1500 rebate and the $750 loyalty rebate.

Here is how the $12,700 broke down:

Elantra = $11,635
tax = $945
title/tags, etc = $120

Car was purchased at Columbia Hyundai in Cincinnati. The dealership seems very respectable. They did not try to play any games.

music315

:mad: Hi, Guys.

I am in Southern California and I offered to 3 local dealers on Elantra GLS (very basic version without any option) on out door price as $12,700. But no one can accept that and seems their best price will be around $13,500.

Did I offer a "too low" price? I think it's reasonable. What do you guys think?

Bunch of thanks!

moodgard

The post just before yours is a good guide for you. What is the final negotiated price before tax, registration, fees etc.? It's hard to compare out the door prices since taxes vary.

In general, it seems you can get a markdown upto $2,000 over invoice in addition to all incentives.

cecropia

You don't mention whether the GLS you want has manual or automatic transmission. Once you've settled on that, you can figure for yourself what a fair price would be.

You should be able to find a basic GLS (no options and manual transmission} for about $11,896, plus tax and license and document fees. The automatic would be about $785 more.

It sounds as though the "unacceptable" offers you made were for an automatic.
For a manual, an out-the-door offer of $12,700 should be acceptable at most dealerships, whatever the TTL.

If $12,700 is your limit, might consider opting instead for the manual. It gets better gas mileage and, in my estimation, the Elantra is one car that is more fun
driving with a manual transmission.

backy

Since you are in SoCal you might give the dealers in Las Vegas a call. When I've visited there I've seen very low advertised prices on Elantras--they seem willing to deal. Even if you don't want to make the drive you could use the pricing as leverage with the SoCal dealers.

lightsearcher3

Sorry for delay in posting my story as promised.

Right to the core of it, I purchased on Friday evening a basic no-options
Elantra sedan (manual) for an out-the-door and over-the-curb price of $11,399.

(destination fee, taxes, documentation fee, title/tag and all that included)

Purchase was made in the Washington DC/Baltimore corridor.

This is the short version of the post. My next one will be in depth.
It's an interesting story and -- even though I haven't bought a car in
13.5 years -- I think I have some handy suggestions on how to buy.

PS -- As I only pitched them that final number ($11,399) and stuck to it,
I'll have to go back now and see what the price components are and will
report --

It looks like I got the actual new car itself for less than $10,100
(but see later post for confirmation or correction of this).

music315

Thanks, what I am looking for is a auto and tax here is 7.25%, it's hard to get down $1,500 and $2,000 from invoice,

doohickie

It's been many years since I lived in L.A., but I thought you had to get CA emissions on a new car brought into the state. I moved there from New York State right out of college and had to have a car special-ordered with CA emissions in order to register it in CA. If someone special-ordered a CA emissions car in NV, my guess is that all the great deals would be off.

backy

If you go back aways you'll find a thread from someone who bought an Elantra in Reno and brought it into CA. As I recall, the car just has to pass the CA emissions check. Cars with CA emissions are routinely available in states that border the ones that adhere to the CAFE rules.

mike78

automatic with cruise and CD (13,700) + tax and title.
no rebates / just dealer discount / 0 percent financing
decent price???

backy

That's $700 under invoice--looks mighty good to me.

califmom

I just purchased an Elantra GLS in the San Diego area for $12,500 OTD. The car is automatic, pkg 3. We applied the $1500 rebate and $750 value customer incentive.

lightsearcher3

Congratulations on $12,500 out the door, but
I'm feeling in Elantra showroom brag mode now.

I think I struck the Elantra Forum "Deal of the Month" by
getting out the door with a Package 1 manual sedan for $11,399

No loyal customer $750 discount involved!

The car itself was about $10, 050 !

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

#1060 of 1066

Purchased: GLS Elantra Sedan (Package 1 / Manual) -- Jul 03, 2005 (1:19 pm)

Right to the core of it, I purchased on Friday evening a basic no-options
Elantra sedan (manual) for an out-the-door and over-the-curb price of $11,399.

(destination fee, taxes, documentation fee, title/tag and all that included)

Purchase was made in the Washington DC/Baltimore corridor.

This is the short version of the post. My next one will be in depth.
It's an interesting story and -- even though I haven't bought a car in
13.5 years -- I think I have some handy suggestions on how to buy.

PS -- As I only pitched them that final number ($11,399) and stuck to it,
I'll have to go back now and see what the price components are and will
report --

It looks like I got the actual new car itself for less than $10,100
(but see later post for confirmation or correction of this).

lightsearcher3

> I think I struck the Elantra Forum "Deal of
> the Month" by getting out the door with
> a Package 1 Manual sedan for $11,399

Achieved this with Floor Mats and Rear Wheel Mud Flaps thrown in, too.

miamixt

Does your Elantra have the Body Door Guards, Pin Stripes, Side Moldings, and Scotch Guard Protectent? In November I picked up an Auto 05 Elantra GLS for $10,995 plus the $ 495 Dealer fee. The Sticker was $16, 800 and I had them switch my Deal from a Car that had the Mats and Mud Flaps, to the Cruise Control Package, and they threw in the Mats anyway. My question is the Sport Package which is a Dealer Add on Item. No one in their right mind needs to pay for this Option, and I didn't. However I just saw an identical 05 Elantra without this Package, and it looked really plain. How many of you do have this Package which is always listed on the Aftermarket Side of the MSRP Sticker? It actually makes the Car look Sportier, aside from the Scotch Guard that you can't see, and probably isn't even there?

backy

The car comes standard with side moldings. The body door guards look tacky IMO, are worthless on the front doors (the side moldings stick out and are the first things to make contact with another object), and help only on the upper corner of the rear doors. I think pin stripes detract from the clean lines of the car. I bought a can of Scotchgard for a few bucks and have treated multiple cars with it over the years. That "Sports Package" is a huge waste of money and might as well be called the "Additional Dealer Profit Package". If you like the add-ons and don't have to pay for them, great.

miamixt

No, I think I can even beat that! In November with only a $1250 Rebate I paid $11,499 Out the Door! I picked up the A/T 05 Elantra GLS with Cruise Control, and that worthless Sports Package (I still contend it makes a Plain Car look just a little better). I paid no Tax, as it was a reverse equity Deal. However I did get reamed on my Trade! What is the extra cost for the A/T? around $1200? I know the Cruise Control is about $200. Keeping all this in mind, better Deals are out there now!

monowrky10

I return home today near Austin, TX with a 2005 Elantra GLS 5 Door (Hatchback), Champagne, 4 Sp Auto, standard package. MSRP $14,449 W/ Cruise Control $250, Carpeted Floor Mats $75, Dest Chrg $545 = $15,139 shown on window sticker.

Had included Permaplate $495, front end mask (bar) $125, Kenwood CD player $299, and window tint $150. Now up to $16,208.

Rebate $1500 Now down to $14,708 price of vehicle. B4 TTL

Negociated down to $12,440.00 Taxes and other stuff $1012.17

Final price $13,452.17

I still have to pay off the difference of trade in in financing thru my leader. That's OK.

There is more to the story. I haven't mentioned the !st dealership and the deal I got from them.

averigejoe

Brand new white current year Elantra GLS sedan bought in February. Factory equipment including manual shift transmission, anti-lock brakes and traction control, cruise control, CD stereo upgrade, floor mats.
$ 14992 MSRP
$ 8492 plus tax license and document fee.
$ 9714 Out the door price

Price reflects Hyundai factory rebate and current Hyundai owner loyalty rebate. The selling dealer discounted the price a hefty amount too. Why? .......Who knows? I did not ask why.
There was no trade-in.
This is the best deal found on any Hyundai board. It was posted in May.

#936 of 1072 February price for current year Elantra <57% x MSRP by averigejoe May 14, 2005 (8:41 pm)
Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
Replying to: nortsr1 (May 12, 2005 4:30 pm)

Net selling price $8492. Sound like a good deal? (plus tax registration and $296 document fee) Out the door price $9714. MSRP was $14992, no dealer adds at all. Included cruise, CD upgrade, anti-lock brakes and floor mats. Perfect new condition. 14 miles on odometer.

lightsearcher3

Thanks to all for your "low price Elantra deal" reports!
This will help others to see what is possible at the low end.

Averagejoe's report [post #1073] was truly amazing!

I might have been interested in a GT model, but my summer
weather preference is to drive in warm weather sometimes with
the windows open, and on my original GT test drive with leather
seats, I found out how easy it is for your back to get a tad sweaty
against the leather in warm weather.

That made me desire to go for the cloth seats.

spmrebel

Darn! And I thought I got a good price!

Anyway, in January I bought a 2005 Elantra GT Sedan with auto, moonroof, ABS and traction control, mud flaps and floor mats for $12885 out the door. It had installed option and only 9 miles on the ODO.

I got the price to $13950
Taxes, doc fees and registration came to $1185.75
Total price is $15135.75
Minus rebate ($1250 at the time) and competive owner discount ($1000 for Suzuki Aerio SX)
Out the door price of $12885.75

Happy motoring!

averigejoe

Just curious: Did you trade in a vehicle when you made your deal?

averigejoe

To make the numbers more meaningful, all posters need to include all info on their trade-in allowance and the mileage and condition of that trade-in.
You mentioned something about a trade-in. Would you tell us about it?

spmrebel

Hi AverigeJoe,

I didn't trade in any car when I bought my GT for $13950. I was thinking of trading in my Aerio SX but I knew the dealer wouldn't give me a fair price. I ended up selling it in June.

Happy motoring!

backy

You certainly got a great deal. I paid $14.3k OTD for my '04 GT 5-door ($13.2k before T&L, $17,414 MSRP plus a $499 maintenance package), similarly loaded except no mud flaps but including 3 years of free scheduled maintenance, and thought I got a good deal at the time. But it was the only Rally Red 5-door automatic with package 8 in the region at the time, and I really wanted that color, so my bargaining power was reduced.

monowrky10

trade-in: 97 Isuzu Rodeo with 162,000 miles. Fair condition. Split the cost of what I owed on vehicle $1661.07. Kelle's Blue Book at $1440.00 at Fair. I did not expect the dealer to give me that. I was pleased to get $800.00. The first dealer I was at wanted to add the total pay off price to final price for financing.

averigejoe

Thank you. The trade-in info lets us know more about the true cost of your new car. I like to use the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price to determine the true value of my used car.
For a new car purchase In AZ, the sales tax on an amount equal to the trade-in allowance is not charged to the buyer. So, I guess if you trade in a car and are allowed the KBB trade-in value plus sales tax, then you got a fair deal for your trade. Anything less than that could be considered an increase in the selling price of the new car.
If the most important consideration is your total transaction cost, then its always best to negotiate to the lowest possible new car price before you ever mention you want to trade in your old car. Only then can you really know what the dealer is allowing for your trade. If it is equal to or greater than the KBB trade-in price plus sales tax, then you are probably better off selling it on your own if you can afford to have an extra car until its sold. Or, better yet, collect a cash deposit when you enter into a (carefully worded) contingent sales agreement with a private buyer(s) before you even go to the dealer. Unless the new car dealer who sells you a car offers more than the private buyer, then the private buyer gets it. If the dealer allows more, then your private bidder gets a chance to increase his offer above the dealer's offer.
Was it the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price you quoted at $1440 ?

averigejoe

I should have proofread before posting. Please note the correction within the text:

Thank you. The trade-in info lets us know more about the true cost of your new car. I like to use the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price to determine the true value of my used car.
For a new car purchase In AZ, the sales tax on an amount equal to the trade-in allowance is not charged to the buyer. So, I guess if you trade in a car and are allowed the KBB trade-in value plus sales tax, then you got a fair deal for your trade. Anything less than that could be considered an increase in the selling price of the new car.
If the most important consideration is your total transaction cost, then its always best to negotiate to the lowest possible new car price before you ever mention you want to trade in your old car. Only then can you really know what the dealer is allowing for your trade. IF THE ALLOWANCE IS LESS THAN the KBB trade-in price plus sales tax, then you are probably better off selling it on your own if you can afford to have an extra car until its sold. Or, better yet, collect a cash deposit when you enter into a (carefully worded) contingent sales agreement with a private buyer(s) before you even go to the dealer. Unless the new car dealer who sells you a car offers more than the private buyer, then the private buyer gets it. If the dealer allows more, then your private bidder gets a chance to increase his offer above the dealer's offer.
Was it the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price you quoted at $1440 ?