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Needless to say I'm happy in my Elantra and look forward to driving it for many years:)
I bought a manual GT in February with Package 7 (that's with moonroof only) for $12,650 before TTL.
But the MSRP for the GT you are considering, with its automatic transmission and its Package 8 moonroof, anti-lock brakes and traction control , is about $1,400 more . So $14,600 is in the ballpark. Especially considering that the manufacturer's rebate on the Elantra in February was (as I recall) about $500 more than the current $1,500.
My feeling is that, with some persistence, you might be able to shave $150-$200 off the $14,600 price-- but probably not much more.
I just found out Fort Worth just became the 19th largest city in the U.S. Surely someone else from Cowtown reads these boards....
There was some confusion over pkg 8 and dest. fees on the GT auto. My offer, looking at invoice etc, is about 12,750 before taxes etc.. His offer works out close to 13,500 before taxes etc.
I'm done with this for now, too much number-crunching!
I was looking around with my son (he's a freshman in high school; this purchase will likely be the car he takes college). After looking at the Spectra5, the Elantra & the Suzuki Aerio & Reno, we went over to the Scion dealer, since I've been looking at the xA. While there we decided to check out all the Scions. If it was just for me, I would prefer the tC coupe.... very very nice, especially for the price, about $17k, including a two-pane sunroof. I figured we would be settling on the xA, and my son saw the xB. He asked, "What's *that*?" so we had the salesman open it up for us. He got in and he was sold, and I have to admit that I was too. There is just SO MUCH room in there, and the materials used on the Scion interiors just seem to be better quality than the Korean models. The auto writers say the new Korean models are up there with the Japanese models. The auto writers lie.
I guess I can save some money up front buying Korean, but the Scions get much, much better gas mileage. I haven't driven the xB, so that could change my mind, but my other son's 95 Escort with 110,000 miles rides a lot better than any of the Korean choices... and has much better acceleration.
I know what you mean about the xB boxy look. I kind of hate it myself, but it's *so* nice on the inside, I am willing to consider it. Aesthetically, it's ugly outside. Inside, it's so functional (I have three six footers in my family), I almost want to cry.
There are three aspects to the Elantra and Spectra's ride qualities that turned me off: 1) NO acceleration off the line. Lean into the accelerator...wait until the engine winds up a bit..listen to the rpms finally kick in as you slowly start to roll...then finally get some decent acceleration. Way too long. My son's Escort Wagon 1.9L is a LOT quicker from a dead stop. 2) Corner lean. Both cars felt like they would tip over. Again, compared to the Escort Wagon with 110,000 miles, I would take the Escort. Sport-tuned suspension in the Spectra5? Really?!? 3) The shimmy that was discussed on this board. I have driven precisely two cars built on the Elantra chassis, and both of them had it. They felt identical on the freeway, and both had a shimmy at 70 mph. There is debate as to whether this is a common problem in these cars. It may or may not be common, but it happens enough that Hyundai/Kia should FIX it.
Maybe my Escort Wagon has trained me to like Fords. The Focus is starting to look more attractive. I drove that and it didn't stand out at all. Maybe that's a good thing.
I do appreciate the time you've taken to respond to my posts, backy... and maybe I'll change my mind before I buy. But the Korean cars are not my preference at this point. I really *wanted* to like them, but I was disappointed.
I respect your opinions, but my wife and I have a 1997 Ford Escort and a 2004 Elantra GT hatchback. We switch cars about once a month so we can both drive the "new" car and I have to disagree on this point. I don't get the same impression you got that an Escort is a dragster compared to the Elantra. The big difference I notice is the Escort engine is noisy compared to the Elantra both during acceleration and cruising. Maybe the noise gives a perception of speed. Also, I haven't driven it, but I would guess the Scion xB and its 1.5 liter, 108hp engine isn't exactly going to rocket you off the line either.
Anyway, I know this is off-topic. I'll stop. I just wanted to input my reaction to the Escort / Elantra comparison.
This could be true, I wouldn't argue these points at all . . . I just posted in reaction to the accenting of the word "LOT".
On the shimmy, the thing to do if you do decide to revisit the Elantra or Spectra is to buy a car that doesn't demonstrate that behavior. I've driven about a dozen of them over the years and none of them have had a shimmy, including the two Elantras I own. So you can find them.
I replied to the acceleration issue on another discussion, since you cross-posted.
In a minute I will write-up and then post here a description of the great rock-bottom price I negotiated -- and successfully closed -- on a 2005 Elantra (Trim Package #1) this afternoon, July 1st, 2005.
Surely there are MANY other viewers of this forum -- like me! -- trying to go through all the posts here with a fine-tooth comb in preparation for deciding on a rock-bottom number to pitch to a local dealer.
Because of that, please indulge me in that I have three important big fat gripes:
-- Buying reports that you post here about your recent purchase are absolutely USELESS unless all the relevant details are included -- Hatchback vs. 4-door sedan; non-GT or GT, manual transmission vs. automatic transmission, and Trim Package Number! -- Plus it is very helpful (but I guess not essential) to have an indication of the portion of the out-the-door price that went to taxes and documentation fees, etc.
MAYBE THE MODERATOR can post a suggestion that asks people to list ALL the relevant details of their new car as cited above. (Please do it!)
-- I wish that posts here would adhere more strictly, tightly, and narrowly to the limited and stated topic -- PRICES PAID and BUYING EXPERIENCE.
-- This last one's asking a lot, but people answering other people's posts should RE-CITE the buying details of the post they are responding to. It's hard as heck to go back and find the previous post they are referencing.
Now with great enjoyment I will write and post an account of my "Prices Paid and Buying Experience"
I can see your post is well-intentioned, sure, occasionally a post here and there strays off just pricing & buying experience. I suppose it's ok to post a gripe post here, unless there's a gripe forum (I haven't checked). As long as we are griping, it would have been easier for me if you numbered your gripes instead of placing -- in front; there are other -- 's in your post, and I couldn't tell what's what.
1. You're right about full details on the purchase, GT, auto, 4dr/5dr, options. Price breakdowns. But when it's not clear, seems people have asked and received responses. As long as I am doing research, I don't mind having to go to a little extra trouble and look up post trails. Some posts that aren't strictly about pricing & buying have helped me learn a bit more about what to look for on the vehicles, and can be an unexpected bonus. Who knows what piece of information may help the next buyer?
2. Kinda self-defeating, huh?
3. I like the threading feature when specific topics are replied to; when starting with the first post, I can clearly see the subsequent trail. Re-citing the post isn't a bad idea, if it's clearly demarked, but can easily get confusing if you can't distinguish the original post and the response.
Forgive my sarcasm, but what does the 17 mile separation between your two beltways have to do with Pricing & Buying Experiences, any more than Tom Cruise's Scientology?
> between your two beltways have to do with Pricing & Buying
> Experiences, any more than Tom Cruise's Scientology?
That is an informal way to identify the geographic U.S. location
where this particular purchase occured.
-- Matt Lauer
PS -- Too late to write up my account now; will do over weekend.
It's been about 24 hours. That's a long minute.
Here is how the $12,700 broke down:
Elantra = $11,635
tax = $945
title/tags, etc = $120
Car was purchased at Columbia Hyundai in Cincinnati. The dealership seems very respectable. They did not try to play any games.
I am in Southern California and I offered to 3 local dealers on Elantra GLS (very basic version without any option) on out door price as $12,700. But no one can accept that and seems their best price will be around $13,500.
Did I offer a "too low" price? I think it's reasonable. What do you guys think?
Bunch of thanks!
In general, it seems you can get a markdown upto $2,000 over invoice in addition to all incentives.
You should be able to find a basic GLS (no options and manual transmission} for about $11,896, plus tax and license and document fees. The automatic would be about $785 more.
It sounds as though the "unacceptable" offers you made were for an automatic.
For a manual, an out-the-door offer of $12,700 should be acceptable at most dealerships, whatever the TTL.
If $12,700 is your limit, might consider opting instead for the manual. It gets better gas mileage and, in my estimation, the Elantra is one car that is more fun
driving with a manual transmission.
Right to the core of it, I purchased on Friday evening a basic no-options
Elantra sedan (manual) for an out-the-door and over-the-curb price of $11,399.
(destination fee, taxes, documentation fee, title/tag and all that included)
Purchase was made in the Washington DC/Baltimore corridor.
This is the short version of the post. My next one will be in depth.
It's an interesting story and -- even though I haven't bought a car in
13.5 years -- I think I have some handy suggestions on how to buy.
PS -- As I only pitched them that final number ($11,399) and stuck to it,
I'll have to go back now and see what the price components are and will
report --
It looks like I got the actual new car itself for less than $10,100
(but see later post for confirmation or correction of this).
no rebates / just dealer discount / 0 percent financing
decent price???
I'm feeling in Elantra showroom brag mode now.
I think I struck the Elantra Forum "Deal of the Month" by
getting out the door with a Package 1 manual sedan for $11,399
No loyal customer $750 discount involved!
The car itself was about $10, 050 !
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
#1060 of 1066
Purchased: GLS Elantra Sedan (Package 1 / Manual) -- Jul 03, 2005 (1:19 pm)
Right to the core of it, I purchased on Friday evening a basic no-options
Elantra sedan (manual) for an out-the-door and over-the-curb price of $11,399.
(destination fee, taxes, documentation fee, title/tag and all that included)
Purchase was made in the Washington DC/Baltimore corridor.
This is the short version of the post. My next one will be in depth.
It's an interesting story and -- even though I haven't bought a car in
13.5 years -- I think I have some handy suggestions on how to buy.
PS -- As I only pitched them that final number ($11,399) and stuck to it,
I'll have to go back now and see what the price components are and will
report --
It looks like I got the actual new car itself for less than $10,100
(but see later post for confirmation or correction of this).
> the Month" by getting out the door with
> a Package 1 Manual sedan for $11,399
Achieved this with Floor Mats and Rear Wheel Mud Flaps thrown in, too.
Had included Permaplate $495, front end mask (bar) $125, Kenwood CD player $299, and window tint $150. Now up to $16,208.
Rebate $1500 Now down to $14,708 price of vehicle. B4 TTL
Negociated down to $12,440.00 Taxes and other stuff $1012.17
Final price $13,452.17
I still have to pay off the difference of trade in in financing thru my leader. That's OK.
There is more to the story. I haven't mentioned the !st dealership and the deal I got from them.
$ 14992 MSRP
$ 8492 plus tax license and document fee.
$ 9714 Out the door price
Price reflects Hyundai factory rebate and current Hyundai owner loyalty rebate. The selling dealer discounted the price a hefty amount too. Why? .......Who knows? I did not ask why.
There was no trade-in.
This is the best deal found on any Hyundai board. It was posted in May.
#936 of 1072 February price for current year Elantra <57% x MSRP by averigejoe May 14, 2005 (8:41 pm)
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Replying to: nortsr1 (May 12, 2005 4:30 pm)
Net selling price $8492. Sound like a good deal? (plus tax registration and $296 document fee) Out the door price $9714. MSRP was $14992, no dealer adds at all. Included cruise, CD upgrade, anti-lock brakes and floor mats. Perfect new condition. 14 miles on odometer.
This will help others to see what is possible at the low end.
Averagejoe's report [post #1073] was truly amazing!
I might have been interested in a GT model, but my summer
weather preference is to drive in warm weather sometimes with
the windows open, and on my original GT test drive with leather
seats, I found out how easy it is for your back to get a tad sweaty
against the leather in warm weather.
That made me desire to go for the cloth seats.
Anyway, in January I bought a 2005 Elantra GT Sedan with auto, moonroof, ABS and traction control, mud flaps and floor mats for $12885 out the door. It had installed option and only 9 miles on the ODO.
I got the price to $13950
Taxes, doc fees and registration came to $1185.75
Total price is $15135.75
Minus rebate ($1250 at the time) and competive owner discount ($1000 for Suzuki Aerio SX)
Out the door price of $12885.75
Happy motoring!
You mentioned something about a trade-in. Would you tell us about it?
I didn't trade in any car when I bought my GT for $13950. I was thinking of trading in my Aerio SX but I knew the dealer wouldn't give me a fair price. I ended up selling it in June.
Happy motoring!
For a new car purchase In AZ, the sales tax on an amount equal to the trade-in allowance is not charged to the buyer. So, I guess if you trade in a car and are allowed the KBB trade-in value plus sales tax, then you got a fair deal for your trade. Anything less than that could be considered an increase in the selling price of the new car.
If the most important consideration is your total transaction cost, then its always best to negotiate to the lowest possible new car price before you ever mention you want to trade in your old car. Only then can you really know what the dealer is allowing for your trade. If it is equal to or greater than the KBB trade-in price plus sales tax, then you are probably better off selling it on your own if you can afford to have an extra car until its sold. Or, better yet, collect a cash deposit when you enter into a (carefully worded) contingent sales agreement with a private buyer(s) before you even go to the dealer. Unless the new car dealer who sells you a car offers more than the private buyer, then the private buyer gets it. If the dealer allows more, then your private bidder gets a chance to increase his offer above the dealer's offer.
Was it the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price you quoted at $1440 ?
Thank you. The trade-in info lets us know more about the true cost of your new car. I like to use the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price to determine the true value of my used car.
For a new car purchase In AZ, the sales tax on an amount equal to the trade-in allowance is not charged to the buyer. So, I guess if you trade in a car and are allowed the KBB trade-in value plus sales tax, then you got a fair deal for your trade. Anything less than that could be considered an increase in the selling price of the new car.
If the most important consideration is your total transaction cost, then its always best to negotiate to the lowest possible new car price before you ever mention you want to trade in your old car. Only then can you really know what the dealer is allowing for your trade. IF THE ALLOWANCE IS LESS THAN the KBB trade-in price plus sales tax, then you are probably better off selling it on your own if you can afford to have an extra car until its sold. Or, better yet, collect a cash deposit when you enter into a (carefully worded) contingent sales agreement with a private buyer(s) before you even go to the dealer. Unless the new car dealer who sells you a car offers more than the private buyer, then the private buyer gets it. If the dealer allows more, then your private bidder gets a chance to increase his offer above the dealer's offer.
Was it the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price you quoted at $1440 ?