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Comments
* Great driver's seating position in GT, poor in Corolla (for me)
* Value
* Smell (GT smells like leather, Corolla can smell like rotten eggs due to oft-reported problem with catalytic converter, which I experienced first-hand on a rental)
* Warranty (Corollas are reliable, but not trouble-free; check out the Corolla forum to see what troubles owners of the '03 have had)
But it's not my decision. You said you don't want a car that will break. The Corolla has a better reliability record than the Elantra (although my '01 GLS, one of the first 1000 shipped to the U.S., has been as reliable as any Honda or Toyota I've owned) so you might be happier with it. Especially if the first time the Elantra has a problem, you would tend to say "I knew it! Cheap Korean piece of trash!" and regret your decision. But I encourage you to drive both cars, since many people have reported the driving position on the Corolla is uncomfortable and that it has a rotten-egg exhaust smell (it was really bad in the rental I drove last week).
I chose the Elantra GT. I'm very happy. Drive 'em both.
I'd add to his reasons the practical aspects of a 4-door hatchback and the nice features of the GT like leather seats.
Elantra GLS Automatic: Invoice - $12,605
Accessory Group 4: Invoice - $1,173
Destination Charge: $525
Total Invoice: $14,303
Dealer offered me the car at $14,064, Tax of 1139.24 (8.1% tax rate here), a 229 document fee and 267.17 for license. That brings the car to $15,700. Apply the current rebate of $1,500 and his out the door price to me is $14,200.
I'm flexible with respect to financing. I can either pay cash or take any special financing they may have. Just wondering what the thoughts of others are regarding the offer made to me. Any room for further discounts off the $14,200? Thanks in advance for any responses!!
I agree on your assessment of the doc fee $289 does seem excessive! I think that is an area I can further reduce the cost when I meet face to face with the dealer!
I performed my research on Edmunds prior to contacting the dealers. It has come in handy as my negotiations have progressed. There have been some inconsistencies with regards to invoice/msrp, etc, however, the bottom line has been progessing in the right direction. All of my request for quotes have specified the need to receive detailed specifics on the base cost of the vehicle, options, destination charges, T+T+L, and any “Applicable Fees”.
I’ve had several offers, one of which quoted me an out the door price of $14,200. Today, I had another dealer quote me the same configuration at $14,066.00 out the door! Roughly $135.00 less! I’m probably nearing the event horizon regarding the dealers ability to drop their prices, however, I’m thinking of dropping in on the dealer and making a cash offer at ~$500 less than the quote of $14,066.00. I have other options that I am researching at this time and don’t think that I stand to lose anything with this strategy.
Quote: $12,498 less $1,500 rebate for a total of $10,998. TT&L in Texas is $881, so the drive out price is $11,879. What do ya'll think?
I, as well as others, will tell you to avoid St. Charles Hyundai AT ALL COSTS. They are awful and they really, really put the squeeze on anyone that test drives a car. They called me for two weeks after I drove mine.
There is a new dealer open in O'Fallon somewhere offering some extra deals (a cruise, IIRC) that you may want to check out also.
I bought from Suntrup and will do again with my next car.
Not sure if it is still going on. Anyone have experience dealing with them?
Bummer
Unfortunately, it does not seem like many of those to choose from here in Houston. I'm getting the AUTO (wife can't drive manual) and hopefully the ABS/moonroof package.
The pricing I have gotten so far is just slightly higher than invoice. I'm looking at right under $14000, which includes the $1500 rebate, but not TTL or destination.
Hope I don't make that same mistake when I sign on the dotted line!
Predelivery inspection and paint/fabric warranty, $399 ad fee, and $99 for license and title (a temp license and the form to apply the title yourself). That is about $1000! According to its internet manager, those charges are backed by the owner and charged to all customers by any Hyundai dealer. Watch that...
The part about "any Hyundai dealer" is absolutely not true. I paid (nor was asked to pay) any of these charges when I bought my Hyundai.
Maybe I won't be so willing to shill for them
$16700 (sticker + dest)
$13700 was my price (1500 rebate applied)
$900 TTL and various fees
$1100 extended warranty & gap insurance
$15700 before financing fees.
FYI the 10yr extended warranty was 1259 and I asked if he could give me a better price and did, for 959. I had a hard time deciding to get the warranty or go with breakdown insurance with GEICO. I figured it would be alot less hassle and more piece of mind, let's hope so.
$13995.00 out the door. That's what I wrote the check for.
There was no price break for a cash deal.
I'd say right around 11,500, after rebate and destination charge, but before TTL and fees. Any cheaper would just be icing on the cake.
I purchased a new 2003 Elantra GLS Automatic with Option 2 package of upgrades...cassette stereo, trunk cargo net and floor mats ($400.00). The sticker was $14,500 and I was able to get $500 over invoice. I was not ready for the hassle of my life, however. I believe that every trick in the book was tried, and in the end I can truly say that it was not worth it. The buying experience was HORRIBLE.
The car was purchased for my college aged daughter, and we went in JUST to look (you know how that goes) while enroute to do other things that day. 4 hours later, we finally drove out. I blame myself because I got up to leave, but my daughter and wife really wanted to get a car. I should have done as I first had the mind to do, and go elsewhere. I had to do the negotiations, because I could see how this outfit operated. Their plan was to go as deep into my pocket as possible, all the while acting as though I didn't know what they were doing.
First off, I like to make the first offer on a vehicle I intend to buy, but the dealer insisted on making the first offer. They initially marked the car up $2000.00, saying that that was just in case I needed some room on a trade or had poor credit (a likely story). It was designed to set the tone and peel me off the ceiling, and hopefully cause me to feel good about paying MSRP. No such luck. I stuck to my guns and demanded to see the invoice. 30 minutes of stalling and it finally came out.(13,500). I offered $500 over invoice (should have stayed at 300.00 over), minus the 1500.00 rebate, for a total of 12,500 + tax license and various fees.
Then I was asked "what kind of monthly payments I wanted", effectively trying to turn me into a "payment" buyer. I saw that one coming and stayed on course as a "cash" buyer. They are masters at the art of deception...or tried to be.
Along the way, I was offered a warranty designed to increase the bumper-to-bumper coverage from the factory supplied 5 years/ 60,000 miles, to 5 years 100,000 miles...only trouble was, they wanted 1500.00 for that..NO WAY. It was a struggle from beginning to end, and not one I would likely repeat again with these guys.
I DID opt for a $400 GAP insurance plan to cover the vehicle in case of collision loss or theft. It will make up the difference between the low blue book and the owed amount. I agonized quite a while over this one, but with a youthful driver as primary operator, I relented at the last minute in finance.
All in all, it is a great car, but the deal really sucked, when you factor in the aggravation and general overall "grinding" that took place. They don't give me any warm fuzzies about the way things are run.
There is one revenge though...the CSI (Customer Satisfaction Index marks are coming, and I will get my pound of flesh..(sad as that may seem). If I had a car to trade in, or had a low FICO score I could see that. But we have excellent credit, and there was no reason for treatment like that. I don't think anyone should put up with that, and I won't again.
By the way, the selling dealer was TEAM Chevrolet / Hyundai in my home city of Vallejo, California. They are part of the Barber Group of dealers in this area. I bet I get a call once these scores go in. They are already buttering me up for good scores by sending letters from the manager and salesman asking for favcorable consideration. Kinda late for that in my book.
GSEREP
I brought in my peoplefirst.com check so I don't know if that helped me any. The salesman was very insistent on getting good marks on a survey I will be getting since he claims he gets $150 or so per Hyundai he sales directly from Hyundai, so long as his rating is good. Besides, I went with what they were advertising in the newspaper so they didn't have much room to screw with me, I think!
MSRP: $15,689.00
Offer: 14,896.00 after rebate!! (technically $200 over MSRP)
Trade in value: $4,500 for 2000 elantra GLS, AT, 37,000 miles (I still owe $6000 on it)
At first, they tried to tell me they were giving me a great deal..it was only going to cost me about 270/month. So I asked them to show me a print out of how each figure they were working with, and that's when I saw the horrible price they were giving me on the car, plus the 72 month loan they calculated it with. They were shocked when I said I wanted a better deal, and when I told them the price was high and I didn't want to lose money on my trade-in, they beat around the bush saying I'm not losing money on my trade-in (which i'm obviously losing $1500 on). The manager even came out to bargain with me, but made no remotely reasonable offer. The dealer I dealt with was Dickson City Hyundai in PA. Please let me know your opinions on this, and what sort of deal would be reasonable for my situation. I was hoping I could get a good deal on the trade in, but in reality I'll most likely have to sell it to get a fair price for it.
As for the price on the new car, Edmunds.com's TMV calculator says that for Dickson City (18519), the TMV is $14,553 for a pewter GT equipped as you said. That's before the $1000 rebate. So if I were you I'd set $13,553 as my maximum price. But you are in a great position because it's almost the end of the month. In fact, I've heard from authoritative sources that the best time to buy a car in any given month is a couple of days before the end of the month. I don't recall the exact reason but it has to do with dealer incentives to sell certain numbers of cars. So what you might do is go to the dealer on Thursday night, TMV report in your pocket, and tell them you will buy the car that night for, say, $13,250 (below invoice, but they can still make money due to holdbacks and dealer incentives). If you can arrange financing, bring a cashier's check for $13,250 with you. That will show them you mean business. If they say no and refuse to give you a reasonable counteroffer, say thank you, pick up your check and walk out. And see if they call you back on Friday. I'll bet they do.
Invoice: $15371 ($362 more than Edmunds)
they offered: $15271
rebate: $1500
Total: $13771
tax (3%): $413.13
tags: $61
doc fee: $289.50
No mention of other fees or charges, a plus for the dealership, but when I went by on Monday, no GT hatches at all, let alone 5sp.
I don't want to pay the doc fee, but I'd pay that if they agree to use Edmunds.com invoice instead of theirs (where did they get that invoice #?) Of course ideally I'd get Edmunds invoice and no doc fee.
Am I crazy?
In a word--no. But miracles do happen sometimes.
Re the doc fee, it's outrageous. What I would do is ask what it covers, and if it's for running paperwork to the courthouse etc., offer to take it there yourself.
As for the invoice not matching Edmunds, I've heard of some dealers adding an "advertising fee" to the invoice. You can ask if that is what they've done here. Some dealers consider it non-negotiable, which is fine, but IMO they should make it clear that they are charging it. Some dealers don't charge that fee. Also, see my note above re buying at the end of the month. For the next couple of days you have maximum leverage. They'll really want to sell you that car now. So stand firm.
P.S. I wish I lived in your state--$61 for tags and $400 tax on a $15,000 car is great! I'd pay about $300 for tags and nearly $1000 in tax.
Our local Hyundai dealer advertises "outlet pricing" and seems to have given me a pretty good deal right off the bat, particularly considering the fact that he doesn't have any GTs on the lot right now, so he seems to be moving them pretty quickly.
As for the tax and tags, they're nice and low, but we make up for it with the gas tax.
Add to that Tinted Glass on all 5 windows for $13995.
Tax is 6% in MI
No Doc fee
No advertising fee
Vehilce MSRP: $15639.00
Check w/ www.carsdirect.com
www.brownautomotive.com
If this works, this board will have saved me about $250 on the purchase price (assuming I purchase one, since I have yet to drive one). Thanks!
Sticker was $16,214. Found the same car on another lot, and got a quote from both. After all was said and done, the lot that I test drove the car gave me a price of $14,670. Subtract out the rebate, and it came to $13,170.
Thought maybe they'd get me in doc fees or something, but the fee's were posted in the F&I manager's office at $52 for all transactions, very fair IMO. I did end up adding gap insurance for $3/month. Wife needs to cosign the loan, then I pick up the vehicle on Thursday.
Very happy with the process. Terry's Hyundai in Tinley Park, IL. They were low pressure and a pleaure to deal with.
Thanx in advance for all your responses.
Why don't you take them up on this great offer? It does sound too good to be true, however. Are you sure it doesn't have some very small print on it, such as a special "loyalty rebate" or other discounts available to very few people? Is there a vehicle serial number on the ad? That would indicate it's a "one only" offer. You can always call them and ask them if they have any vehicles in stock to which the offer applies.