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Last I heard the 2007 owner's manual doesn't list an oil change schedule, so it would be hard to follow, "dot" or otherwise...
the 2007 Manual says to change the oil when the oil life indicator says to do so, not sooner nor later for the break in oil.
Does anyone know from recent experience how long you can drive before the indicator gets to 15% in normal city driving?
Yes, but that is not a schedule for changes, such as was published for the Gen 2.
All your questions are answered in the owners manual in the part that deals with the maintenance minder starting with page 255.
It is the same engine, so, I don't see how it is comparing oranges to apples, it is more like comparing oranges to oranges and apples to apples. Under the skin, the two (Gen 2.5 and Gen 3) are identical.
I already use Chevron fuel... beyond that, are there good additives to use to help with this problem.
Thanks,
Jeff
The service reminder on Gen 1 and 2 is tied to the odometer.
Gen 1 maintenance reminder is purely mechanical. It is a disk with Green, Yellow and Red sections. At around 5,000 miles, the disk starts showing Yellow, and at 7,500 miles shows red.
On Gen 2, the reminder just counts the miles electronically. Starts flashing on start up at around 8,000 miles, stays on around 10,000 miles.
Gen 3, indeed, uses driving history data to calculate oil life.
Both, Gen 1 asnd Gen 2 have the capability to calculate instantenous and average MPG. It is just missing the read out. The EU versions have been getting MPG readout for years. For the US version, you can tap into the OBDII connections for the read out. I use ScanGaugeII to get the missing readouts, like MPG, engine load, air intake temperature, ignition advance/retardation, fuel pressure...
I already use Chevron fuel... beyond that, are there good additives to use to help with this problem.
Thanks,
Jeff
Pure dealer's bunk!
Since all CR-V's are fuel injected, having fuel system cleaned has no impact on the throttle body, or plate. The fuel never sees the throttle.
If you have carbon build up on the throttle body, check the PCV valve and use quality air filter (not K&N, not Purolator, Preferrably Honda air filter)
Yeah, that's what I suspected (dealer trying to profit from superfluous work); although, I didn't know enough about how the fuel system is connected (or not connected) to understand that the throttle body wouldn't benefit from a fuel system cleaning.
I've always used Honda filters; but, I'll check the PCV valve. Is your thinking is that maybe the fuel/air mix is not optimal (for some reason), and that the carbon/soot is a resulting by-product?
Don't waste your money. The dealer is just picking your pocket. IF there is carbon build-up in the throttle body you will notice it with poor performance. Sticking throttle, erratic starts, etc. Even more interesting is they already soaked you at 35k. Be aware that most dealers will find "something" unexpected to bill you for when they do a routine checkup. The "If it isn't broke, don't fix it" saying works most of the time. Common sense goes along way toward keeping your car running well. Most dealers are looking out for themselves, not you.
Enjoy
George
All good points. I've actualy wondered how they would have even noticed the "carbon buildup" in the throttle body given the type of maintenance I was having them do; the 50K maintenance is just oil change, tire rotation, etc. No inspection of the fuel or air intake systems are called out.
Yeah, I'll just hold off on anything until the check-engine light comes on, or I start having noticable performance issues.
PS: Fortunately, the throttle body replacement at 35K fell just inside the original warranty (which ended at 36K), so I didn't have to fork out any $$$ for that.
The only way for carbon, or anything to get to the Throttle body is through the filter or the PCV valve. With proper filtration, the dust entering the throttle body will be kept to a minimum. With properly functioning PCV valve, the oil entering the throttle body will be minimal as well.
You can check for broken air ducts between the filter and the throttle body, or shake the PCV Valve to see if it rattles. Other than those two, there is no way for dust, or cabon in your case to enter the throttle body.
Here’s the issue. My CR-V has a noticeable vibration noise and feel between 48 and 54 MPH, with the worst vibration being around 51-52 MPH. It seems to be independent of engine RPM. It vibrates at exactly the same MPH speed with the transmission in neutral (~800 RPM), in drive (~2000 RPM), and with the overdrive off (~3200 RPM).
Has anyone else heard of or experienced this problem.
Thanks,
Paul
The propellor shaft is supported by a rubber mounted bearing. Therefore, a bad prop shaft bearing could make some noise. Call me crazy, but I believe you could unbolt/remove the prop shaft to confirm the diagnosis.
Did you use Honda dual-pump fluid in the diff?
Have wheels balanced and rotate them regularly. One of the weights probably fell off.
Replace the tranny fluid with Honda ATF 3 times with 10-20 mile drives in between.
The main advice is to check rotor surface condition and runout, since rough or warped rotors are fairly common, and can cause some noise/vibration issues.
Obviously, you want to rule out tire/wheel problems first...
I ended up with the same crappy OEM BFGoodrich tires, which were serviceable, if nothing else.
Finally wore those out, and got Nokian WRs.. Which after 4K miles are pretty darn nice..
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for example (you could do more searching)...
you could go aftermarket:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?autoMake=Honda&autoModel=CR-V&autoYea- r=2004&autoModClar=
or you could go OEM:
http://www.handa-accessories.com/crvext02.html
On the first oil change for my new '07 CR-V, here's what they recommend. And it goes against what Honda says. I'll explain this after detailing the regimen:
-- Change the oil and filter between 1,000 and 1,500 miles. Do not switch yet to synthetic oil. Drive 2000 more miles and then change the oil and filter again, this time switching to synthetic. After that, change the oil every 4,000 to 5,000 miles despite Honda's scheduled 10,000-mile intervals.
Why the difference from Honda's scheduling? The guys I spoke with are interested in the engine being broken in fully and correctly -- and then lasting a long time. They don't like the idea of bits and flecks of metal running through the engine for 10,000 miles before that first change.
Honda, on the other hand, has to make allowances for the great majority of customers. Many of them would come here and complain of being ripped off by the dealer if they were asked/told to come in for an oil change after just 1,000 miles (heck, even if the dealer does the first one free, they wouldn't like the hassle.)
Am I following the advice of my local guys? I don't need to. I expect the engine to hold up just fine for the duration of my extended warranty that spans 6 years/100,000 miles. I likely won't be keeping it that long anyway.
But I expect the engine would last a lot longer than that extended warranty period with the break-in and maintenance my local guys recommend.
So, should anyone want to try it their way, I suggest just doing it yourself or somewhere other than a Honda dealer, and keeping only records that indicate you have adhered to Honda's schedule. Leave out your extra expense and effort.
Of all the problems I've ever had with any car... engine wear before 100K miles has never been one of them..
I'm thinking that internal engine problems due to poor oil change habits is about 1% of all vehicles. For those that actually follow the manufacturer's recommendation? Probably less than 1/10th of that..
(All statistics pulled out of you-know-where)
If you are trying to get 150K-300K out of your engine? Maybe you could try that hard... but, not me.
regards,
kyfdx
(not the host here)
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I'm inclined to view the issue this way. Honda has invested literally hundreds of millions of dollars in engine and vehicle research over the years. As a result, they build superior vehicles today. Conversely, the fellows in your independent autoshop have invested...$...? Honda WANTS us to keep their original oil in the engine for the first 10K miles. I accept that Honda has good reason to insist on that. After that first 10K, Honda doesn't really care how often you change your oil, so long as you don't exceed 10K between changes, but they do state that changing oil more frequently than they recommend is economically wasteful, does not improve engine performance or longevity, and harms our environment. Given Honda's superb record, I can think of no good reason to deviate from their recommendations.
The autoshop fellows' job is to sell oil changes. Unfortunately, even at my local Honda dealership, the kid working in the service department will look customers straight in the eye and say: "We recommend changing the oil every 3,000 miles." Well, his job is to sell oil changes too. I expect the kid knows perfectly well that's wrong information, but he's following orders and trying to keep his job. Sad, but true.
i don't think anyone realistically believes you should go 10K between changes with regular motor oil. synthetic? possibly. if i'm not mistaken, doesn't your schedule indicate changes every 7500 miles?
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I'm personally still at the 3K limit for all my vehicles.
As I understand it, their maintenance monitor is based on engine revolutions. It will tell a stop'n'go city driver to change the oil sooner than someone who is primarily a highway driver.
It makes sense to me. At best, mileage is a rough approximation of wear on oil. Engine revs may not be perfect either, but it's probably better than mileage. At 4,500 miles on my CR-V, the indicator says 70% left on oil life expectancy.
If you really care about your oil, you shouldn't be guessing - pay the $20 for an oil analysis.
Isn't that why you have an oil filter? I agree with the others, there are special additives in the oil when you buy the vehicle new to help during the break in period. Changing this too soon is not a good thing.
FWIW: i change my oil in my honda ody and accord at around 5K or so. i think i have some insight into why you conclude this, but it doesn't have to be true...
when shops change your oil, i suspect there is a good deal of used motor oil probably still in the pan and on the moving parts when they put the drain plug back in. hey, they don't want to wait forever and keep a bay occupied with a vehicle for it to drain do they? i can't blame them.
FWIW: i always let my pan drain till it's dripping (takes another 5 min they don't have but i do have when i'm doing other stuff around the house)... then i run a tiny bit more (1/4 to 1/2 a quart more) through and wait again.
this isn't necessary of course, but i personally do look at oil color as a sign the engine might uncharacteristically be mixing too much exhaust gases with the oil between changes.
factually, as you said - there's no way you or i are going to be able to measure and assess suspension unless we got a real (really bad) problem, right? so i'm with you on the oil analysis statement.
now then, through the majority of the 5K interval, my engine oil in both cars looks so clean against the sticks, it can sometimes be a challenge to guage the oil level (but i'm used to it). near the end, it tends to be amber. but the point is, it's not amber a day after i drive away from the service station.
i'm not using oil color as a means of judging when to change the oil, but rather as a "differencing" indicator that something may be out of the norm.
honda makes great engines!
if your CRV has a rear-differential / 4WD model, i think you *may* need to have that fluid changed maybe as often as every 15K... i'm not positive about that though.
It is not Folklore; the Honda Owner site does say this for the CR-V. It also said that for the last generation (which I owned). It recommended keeping the "factory" oil in as long as possible (up to 10K, of course). I kept mine in for 7500 miles, then used the "severe" schedule of 5K changes.
If you have not gone to the Honda owners site, you should; they will have recalls, plus other information (such as the "factory oil"), specifically for your VIN.
Also, Does putting your transmission in park everytime you stop at a stop light, etc. help with gas mileage? Does it do any harm to the tranmission, etc? IOW, are they any harms or benefits in doing so?