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FYI, I just did the first oil change on my 04 EX this weekend heeding all of the advise previously listed here. Went smooth, but the old filter gasket stuck on filter mount as I expected. It came off easily but I can see people (even dealers) not checking this as it is somewhat blind. My advice it this: WHENEVER YOU BRING YOUR V IN FOR A CHANGE, CAUTION THEM TO DOUBLE CHECK THAT THE OLD FILTER GASKET IS REMOVED. MAKE A HUGE DEAL OUT OUT THIS, TELL THEM IT HAS CAUSED MAJOR PROBLEMS. In my opinion, leaking/spraying oil is probably the culprit to the fires we have heard about here. BTW, the new filters have the same gasket design that can come off the filter. Toyota for example, uses an O ring integrated into the filter metal housing so it can not come off. Honda should do the same
varmint "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" Nov 22, 2003 12:10pm
Thanks,
And I might have made a wrong decision to have this crv. Riding in NY city almost like off-road riding that is not a crv designed for.
By the way, I can hear and feel some metallic noise from breaks (sounds like uneven friction or sticky) when I move my crv out and into my garage at very low speed with lots of breaks. Is this normal for a new car?
What is e-break?
varmint "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" Nov 25, 2003 1:25pm
Stevec10 - How are the tires?
Have you had the rear differential fluid changed? It can cause a low rumbling or grinding sound from the rear end when making a tight turn. If you do it yourself you'll have to get the special "dual pump" fluid from a Honda dealer, as it's neither a transmission fluid nor gear oil.
Good luck.
Your gas mileage will likely improve as your engine breaks in.
regards,
kyfdx
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I did not do any break jobs on my new EX myself yet, but I did a lot on my old cars.
Of course, I may not diagnose your problem on-line. But if you believe that your brakes are 'sticking' there is a good old test for it.
Find an even flat surface like an empty parking lot. Move with low speed, put lever on neutral,
Do not touch the breaks. Car would slowly move until it stop by itself.
If your breaks are 'sticking', at last stopping moment you would feel like a slight pull back
(or kick back). If there are no 'kick back' breaks are o'k. If you are not sure, make this procedure several times after different braking patterns.
Another test: After driving on a highway for a while do not break hard, stop and check the temperature of the rotors. Touch them carefully - they might be very hot. Actually you may moisten your finger with saliva and quickly touch. Normally rotor is warm but not very hot. If rotor is sizzling hot without hard breaking, it might indicate a problem - so watch it for a while and/or contact your dealer.
If problem persists and you ignore it - your rotor might get warped and nothing would help (not even turning it - if crystal structure of metal changed (steel get tempered), rotor need to be replaced. Rotors are made of soft steel ). Warped rotor give you a distinctive pulsating feeling on a break pedal.
Sometimes new breaks are sticking, sometimes old rusty ones (if not used for a while). Old needs cleaning and light greasing the grooves. Sometimes problem would go by itself after new breaks are 'settled'.
HELP!!!!!!!
Anyway, I did a search on Cooper Lifeliners and found some mixed reviews. Some were fine with wet traction, but there were enough complaining about snow and slush to give me pause. The link I mentioned had a few. I did not find test data on Tire Rack, but you might try similar sites for controlled test results.
Longer lasting tires tend to be made with harder rubber compounds. Soft rubber is what you want with a good snow tire. I would start by investigating the tires. While the CR-V is not a perfect snow vehicle, the majority do not find it as "squirrely" as you have described. See if you can find more information about those tires. If you don't find good results, get rid of them before next winter.
I think I've read questions about VINs here in this thread most often.
http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/maintenance/maint_recalls_show.asp?c- ampaignMasterNo=L55&url=Campaigns%2FL55%2Ehtm
===============================================
May 2002
Recall Campaign: Ignition Switch
Dear Honda Owner:
Your car is affected by the ignition switch recall that was recently announced.
Electrical contacts within the ignition switch can wear prematurely, which can eventually cause the engine to stall without warning. When a stall does occur, the engine can normally be restarted immediately. An affected vehicle typically experiences difficulty in starting for a period of time before experiencing any engine stall. Most customers will not experience any problems prior to the repair--less than 3/10ths of one percent of affected vehicles have experienced switch failure. There have been no reports of accidents or injuries related to this issue.
good luck, hope you figure it out.
http://www.hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x98-050e.pdf
Unfortunately they did not include any instructions (usually they do). I would appreciate if somebody would refer me to the source were I could get such instructions. I want to do the break job myself (this is a matter of self-respect and not 'save a buck' effort).
I always did break jobs myself on my previous cars (and proud of it). I examined the breaking system of CR-V, and I understand ,of course, how to handle the job, but I need some additional info like torque values, etc.
It's a pretty straightforward job providing you have the right tools and a bit of know how.
You can also check those "cheap" maint. manuals in Pep boys or R&S if they have the latest edition. I know they give torque values and should give you some ideas. Or else get the "real Honda Shop manual" from Helm if you are going to do all the maint. its expensive but worth it.
That is a big IF - to qualify for the warranty coverage, you must follow the Honda recommended service intervals, including the major and minor services. It doesn't have to be done by Honda, but you must have documentation of the service being performed.
"One thing, my plug had paint or sealant on it and it caused the washer to stick. I had to use a razor to get it free so i could remove it. "
Thought you might be interested.
By the above statement, I think the writer was saying the drain plug had paint or sealant on it causing it to stick to the drain pan. Nothing to do with the oil filter. When did my o/c it was obvious (but not a problem) that the drain plug and crush washer was installed then paint applied. I'm not saying this was a problem. Mine didn't even stick, I just noticed it was black since the new washer was silver.
The first oil change was done in the shop.
Second o/c I did myself and found that plug washer was black like yours (I assume that they did not painted it black during o/c - just left the factory's washer). No harm was done - I replaced it with silver one. But I am thinking (I follow Sabrina9 post) what would happen if they would put a new one on top of old one?
Next time when I'll go to that shop I'll ask them - Is it a standard procedure to apply black paint/sealer on washer during o/c?
But I doubt that I'll get the truth.
Not sure how I feel about it being left in there but at least it's not driving me crazy every time I make a turn.
Good luck out there to all the CR-V owners. I absolutely love my 2004 EX 5spd manual.
It was the drain plug washer that had been painted stuck. Good catch!
I forwarded this information to the NHTSA. Found out that they are opening a formal investigation into these problems. The case number has not been assigned yet, but we can look for it in the near future.
You also mentioned a "clunk" noise from the rear diff since purchase. The most common noise from the rear diff is more like a grinding sound. The problem and solution are both described here. Take a look and see if this matches what you are hearing.
varmint "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" Nov 22, 2003 12:10pm
I hope they ask the following questions:
In addition to the ones known, exactly how many engine fires (whatever the cause) are you aware of on every year CRV model, but especially on 02, 03 and 04 models? What was the determined cause? What are the VIN numbers. What have you done to prevent further ones?
Those answers would be good, I think. If they are zero, it should be easy for Honda to release the info, don't you think?