Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

timhonda

I picked CVR over Rav4 just because I have two teenagers who can sit in the back. For two people, either will do fine.

stevedebi

I always wondered: Is the 72 CU FT of space in the CR-V with the rear seats all the way back? If so, they would have several more feel with the rear seats slid all the way forward.

theracoon

According to the Honda website: 33.5 cu. ft. with the seat up, 72.0 with the seat down.

stevedebi

So the question remains, 33.5 cu. ft with the seats slid forwards, or backwards?

I suppose I was getting the cargo area confused with my old Odyssey with 3rd seat folded... or just getting old...

icvci

It was in my daughter's hand.

varmint

Steve - That 33.5 figure is with the seats pushed all the way back. There used to be an article on the MSN auto site where this was mentioned, but it has since been removed. I believe the author (Daniel Heraud) took a job elsewhere. He was citing Honda's information in the article.

Anyway, in theory, you could slide the seats forward a bit, gain luggage space, and still have as much leg room as small rigs like the RAV4.

varmint

I've spent some quality time in several 2nd gen CR-Vs (my own is a '99 model). None have had noteworthy rattles. FWIW, the CR-V was an initial quality winner last year and this is where rattles often show up. But I agree that every example is different. Not every vehicle is rock solid when it leaves the factory.

autosaurus

wow..looks like I got a lemon and everyone elses CRV is picture perfect!!!...

As for the RAV 4 I dont sit in the back seat either but if you remove the rear seats the space is pretty impressive. Its obvious the CRV is bigger, but that doesnt maske it better, especially in my case.

Since everyone is so impressed with their CRV, I'll be I'll get near sticker when I sell it next year! If my back holds out that long!

stevedebi

>>As for the RAV 4 I dont sit in the back seat either but if you remove the rear seats the space is pretty impressive. Its obvious the CRV is bigger, but that doesnt maske it better, especially in my case. <<

Well, you obviously don't have kids. They might object to sitting back there with the seats removed!

If you think the space in the rear is impressive in the RAV4, remove the CR-V seats and check it out!

autosaurus

mmm.. I was told you couldnt remove them..how would you go about doing that? with the RAV 4 you just tug on a handle and out they come! I cant see any way of removing them in my CRV

and If I had kids I probably wouldnt get either car..a mini van is much more useful.

icvci

I've got one kid and a minivan would be overkill even with two. Seems some of us can't remember a time when you had to make do with a car. If the CR-V isn't big enough for a family of 4, dad needs to go back to packing 101. Unless of course, we're talking about towing something. But that wasn't the argument.

My CR-V hasn't been perfect (had to replace the blower motor on the HVAC system within one month of purchase). But, it has been absolutely flawless since.

Many back problems can be fixed by strengthening the stomach muscles.

stevedebi

I've never done it, but it can be done by removing the pins that hold the seats in. Wouldn't be worth it if done often, but if you intend to leave it out, it would be great.

Plus, the CR-V has flat floors. Not so sure about the RAV4 - I think it has a "hump" back there.

autosaurus

thanks for the back problem solution.. I own a fitness studio in NJ, I'll make sure to remember that tip and start to incorporate core work in my clients workouts..:)

and just a thought.. if the CRv is so perfect, why are you in THIS discussion group?..*L*

BTW.. just drove home in this awful storm..my CRV slid around more than I'd like..I know the tires are small but did anyone switch to winter tires and if so, was it a marked improvement..
Thanks

tomk17

I posted a while back about snows. To me it's a night and day difference in real snow (more than 2"). I bought the Hankook W401 snows before the season, $50 each at Tires.com. In my opinion they turn the V into "almost unstoppable" from merely "OK and somewhat stable". Braking is much better as well. Several posters mentioned the marginal braking with the stock tires. One even hit a tree.

icvci

and just a thought.. if the CRv is so perfect, why are you in THIS discussion group?..*L*

If it was only people with problems, you wouldn't get any answers.

I replaced the tires on our V about 3 months ago with a set of Yokohama Aegis LS4. They are MUCH better everywhere except for road noise. They are a little bit louder than the Duelers. But, grip, wet, dry, snow and ice is much improved.

kay1864

I've seen several posts that all four doors don't unlock with the key, despite what the manual says.

Easy solution: Add the keyless entry! It costs about $90, takes about 10 minutes to install, simple plug-and-play. The peace of mind and convenience alone are worth the small price.

Here's my post from the Accessories forum:

I installed the keyless entry on my '04 LX last night in about 5 minutes. Although the instructions say to disconnect the battery, I didn't bother (this on the advice of an electrical engineer friend). I just plugged the existing connector into the receiver unit. As a result, NO programming required, NO resetting of the auto-windows, NO resetting of the radio or clock. And no dirty fingers from the battery terminal :-) Once it was plugged in, I just pressed the key fob, and voila.

Like I said, it worked for me, but YMMV. Some more knowledgeable than I might say this was a Real Bad Idea, but I wasn't too worried about plugging in a 5-pin connector.

Also-- I compared prices with handa-accessories, and cheaphondaparts.com was a bit less--plus if your order is over $200 (easy to accomplish :-)), it's a flat 19.95. Nice people too--they let me add two items to the order (order hadn't shipped yet, since it was after 5 on a Friday), with essentially free shipping, since I was already over $200 with the keyless and cargo cover. Nice guys to deal with!

----------

Follow-up for those uncertain about doing your own installation: I can't emphasize enough how easy this was, and much cheaper than paying your dealer $250 for it. Take out ONE screw from the CD storage pocket, pull the bin out (that's actually the hardest part), and plug in the keyless receiver. Put the bin back in, press the remote, and you're ready to go.

coco

it has around 115k miles on the car. when the car is driving at a constant speed (or accelerating slowly) anywhere from 30 to 50, on certain road condition, the frond of the car will go shaking, very much like when you launch a manual car hard from a stop (ppl call that axle tramp(sp) or wheel hop (?!?) ). only when i let go the pedal the shaking will go away. that has been happening for a year or so occasionally (few times a week).

there has been a lot of other noise coming from the front suspension which i dont' think is related to this problem. (<-brake and steering related) road here is really bad, bearing(twice) bushings tie rods links and all the locks have gone bad in the last few years.

appreciate anyway feedback!

autosaurus

tomk17 -
Thanks for the info, my CRV slid all over yesterday and I was driving pretty slow. The stock tires aren't that good at all..marginal at best. I'll take a look at the ones you mentioned

icvci - I didnt think your question was dumb at all! and I'm glad your here for the answers!

icvci

Keep doing those sit-ups.

kyfdx

My first impression is bad CV joints.. 115K would be a normal time for those to go bad..

regards,
kyfdx

varmint

Coco - This only happens when you have your foot on the gas? Is the "front end" shaking? Or is it the engine "lugging"?

First impression: Have your fuel filters checked. I had a Subaru with clogged fuel filters. It would buck a little bit when I stepped on the gas, but rode fine while coasting or under light throttle.

autosaurus

ICVCI - *L*.. I'm thinking that since i'm constantly bending over to look under my CRV to determine where the rattle is coming from has to count as core training??.. what do ya think?

coco

the vibration(up and down in high frequency) happens when i'm either driving at a constant moderate speed, or accelarating slowly at moderate speed. fuel filter has been changed and i dont' think it's related to the filter. it develops gradually in maybe 1-2 seconds, from slow vibrate to higher and higher frequency until let going the gas pedal which stops it and it will drive well again. nothing dangerous, but i just find it annoying sometimes.

icvci

I think you're a candidate for a 24 hour test drive. And make sure you drive the entire 24 hours so you know whether you like the vehicle or not BEFORE you buy it.

Rattles? Sorry about your luck.

varmint

Coco - Okay. Not a filter problem, then. However, I still think it may be fuel related. Maybe the fuel pump? It doesn't sound like anything in the suspension or tires, though.

autosaurus

you seem upset that I dont like my CRV... and if I drove it for 24 hours I wouldn't be able to walk for a week.

cybernut04

I posted a couple of weeks ago about the '04 CRV seats. I've experimented with using a folded bath towel to try and see just where I need additional support, and it's definitely my lower back.

I went to a local Healthy Back Store (http://www.healthyback.com/) -- I wasn't going to buy anything online without trying it out first. And they were great - very helpful - let me take several different types of back cushions out to the Honda and try them. Nothing worked. They were all too big for the seat and too thick for me to use - they pushed me too far away from the seat and too close to the steering wheel. Herzogtum71 suggested a thin lumbar-support pillow and that seems to be exactly what I need ... I just have to find the right one.

My next stop is an orthopedic doctor a friend recommended.

It's a shame. Other than the seats, I think the CRV is a solid SUV, and just the right size for us. But my back has me wondering how much it would cost to rip those front seats outta there and replace them with something better. I've driven a fair number of cars and trucks over the years, and this is a totally new experience for me!

varmint

Cybernut - Pardon me if this has already been mentioned, but have you tried sitting more or less bolt upright in the seats? If you try to sit like most other cars (with the seat leaning way back), you'll suffer. If you haven't done so already, position the seat more like a dining room chair, rather than a recliner. For many people it makes a big difference.

bshel

Cyber, That is unfortunate that none of those worked. My mother has a back cushion from her MD that she uses in her car - I know she will hate the seats in the CR-V as they are very firm in comparison.

I hope that the doctor can find one for you that is thin enough. I know that if I were to need one, it would have to be quite thin - my legs need the support of the seat and I don't want to have to sit closer.

Please post what you find out.

cybernut04

"...have you tried sitting more or less bolt upright in the seats?" Thanks, Varmint, but yes, I think the seat is very straight, although I think this is great advice and I'll double-check the seat back this evening. When driving any vehicle I tend to keep the seat back fairly straight - I find it more comfortable that way. But maybe the seat in the CRV isn't as straight as it could be.

As far as I can tell, there's something just a little off on the seat design ... if the back were a little wider or more flat or had some give to it, I might be okay. But there's some characteristic or combination of characteristics of the CRV seat and my back that make the two incompatible.

I could understand it better if I had a history of problems with car seats, but I don't. I have a fairly ordinary build (about 5'10", 155 lbs.) so it's not like I'm either overwhelming the seat or getting lost in it.

We have a '94 Civic (I *love* those seats), a '99 Escort, an '04 Sienna, and the CRV ... and the CRV is the only pain in the back of the bunch.

autosaurus

Cybernut - I've experienced the same thijng in my car.. I dont have back problems at all but the seats cause some back discomfort..I do drive it alot but there is something that just isnt right about the seat design/position etc..and I cant figure it out. I do find it's more comfortable if it's straight up but it feels so akward at first.. great car except for the seats..and in my case, constant rattles!

Good luck with yours

bshel

Anyone have an opinion on whether to repair a small crack in the windshield versus replacing the whole windshield? My new V - falling ice off trees on the way to work put a small crack in the windshield the other day.

If they repair it - it will pass PA state inspection next year.

kizhe

Define a 'small crack'.
Keep in mind that small crack would, probably, grow
(esp. when it's very cold or hot).
My son had a small crack in a very inconspicuous place ( about 1" from the bottom left corner), but he failed inspection and was compelled to install a new one. I would not recommend repair. Be more careful next time.

rjpreuss

My 1999 CRV is due for a tune-up. My mechanic recommends that I stick with the stock NGK spark plugs (called V-Power). I am looking to put in better plugs, ones that last longer and give better performance…any suggestions? Perhaps platinum or iridium? Will either platinum or iridium make a huge difference?

varmint

Changing plugs does not have a significant impact on performance. You may find a brand with longer life, but if you are interested in performance gains, look to something other than plugs.

defielding

I have tried many different types and brands of spark plugs over the years on motorcycles and cars and have been the most satisfied with the NGK V-power plugs (which happen to come standard with the CRV).

slugline

Changing the type or brand of plugs doesn't make much of a difference. (Swapping in fresh plugs in the place of worn out plugs is noticeable though.)
I am running my 2000 CR-V on Bosch Super plugs. Pep Boys had them on special awhile back for $.60 each, so I walked in and bought the sale limit of 16. The car is running great and I probably will never have to buy plugs again for the CR-V.

defielding

I have tried many different types and brands of spark plugs over the years on motorcycles and cars and have been the most satisfied with the NGK V-power plugs (which happen to come standard with the CRV).

rjpreuss

defielding, just curious if you have tried the NGK GP Platinum plugs. These are the ones that I am thinking of getting and they are only a few dollars more than the V-Power plugs.

defielding

I have tried other brands of platinum plugs but not NGK. They will probably be a good choice as well, but be careful gapping the plugs. If you regularly use a disk style gapping tool that gets bigger as you go around the outside of the tool, it will rub off the thin coating of platinum, (or so I have been told by the suplier).

patlisa

I recently brought a Honda CRV and I've been noticing a funny rotten egg smell after 15 minutes of driving. Is this usual? I took it back to the car dealer and they told me that I need to take it on a long run for the smell to go away. Is this true because at times, the odor is a little bit overwhelming. In the beginning, the smell would last about 2-3 minutes. Now it last for about 1 minute or less. How can this happen to a brand new car????

tntitan

Patlisa....do a search and you will find this has been common with new vehicles and goes away after a while. My CRV never had the problem but many have. Enjoy your ride!

patlisa

Thanks. I was getting a little paranoid but I did do some research and found that a lot of people are having this problem with new cars. You're so lucky you didn't have that problem.

sfsmith

A couple of suggestions. I use a massaging seat cushion that sits on top of the seat and plugs into the outlet for power......it works pretty well for long trips..In my Miata I use two inflatable air bladders that are between the seat cover and foam[these are a permanent installation]...one for the low back area another in the seat area. They 'pump up' the same way a blood pressure cuff does. They work very well. When I drive the Miata long distances I use the them in conjunction with the massaging cushion.

kurtq1

I own a 1997 CRV. I have 100,000 miles on it. I get a metallic buzz vibration noise at 2ooo RPM when I'm driving in D4. I get it very slightly in D3, but I think that's because it passes thru 2000 RPM very quickly. Any thoughts.

varmint

Wow, I haven't heard that one in a long time. Your timing belt is adjusted too tightly. Did you just have it replaced? For a while, belts had too much tension right from the factory, so I'm a bit surprised to hear this problem with a high mileage vehicle.

kurtq1

Thank-you Varmint. I will definitely get that checked out. Is it an easy thing to get checked out? I had the timing belt replaced at 100,000 kilometres(62,500 miles). I'm from canada. It's been making the noise for quite a while now. I had the dealership check it out but they couldn't find anything.
One more problem I have is a clunking from the front end when going over bumps or potholes. I know it could be the ball joints, tie-rods etc. Is there a best way to check it out so as to minimize the cost. I don't trust my dealership as they have charged me for needless repairs in the past.

varmint

There's an old TSB notice reagrding a possible problem with a nut/bolt on the upper control arm, but that's another defect that was typical of new vehicles. It's not something I would expect to develop over time.

Here are a few suggestions from another site.

Ball joints. The CRV has two at each front wheel, on the upper arm and on the lower arm.

- For the top ball joint, grab the top of the front wheel when the vehicle is on the ground, and push and pull, in and out, hard. If you feel looseness, it&#146;s the top ball joint.
- For the bottom ball joint, the front wheel needs to be off the ground with the vehicle well supported. Grab the bottom of the wheel and push and pull, in and out. If you feel looseness, it&#146;s the bottom ball joint.

- Tie rod ends. With the vehicle on the ground, grab each side of the front wheel and push and pull (as if to steer the wheel). Looseness is the tie rod end. You can also sometimes feel this if you turn the steering wheel enough to reach in at the rear of the wheel and twist and shake the rod that&#146;s right there. Sometimes you also feel this in the steering wheel. If there&#146;s looseness, that&#146;s likely your problem.

If you&#146;re past those, it&#146;s time to inspect the stabilizer bar links. You might also suspect these parts first if the clunk comes only when one wheel hits a bump but not both. For example, when both wheels hit a speed bump at the same time, there will be no clunk because the stabilizer bar is not twisting, but if you move over on the lane and only one wheel hits the bump, and you get the clunk, it&#146;s likely the stabilizer link (but, sigh, could also be others parts as above). Another, reason to suspect the links is that they have synthetic bushings, so they are going to wear.

Send me an e-mail (the address is in my profile) and I can direct you to the full article. Good luck.

auburn63

Have you looked at the exhaust shields for the noise? If so and they were fine I have also seen the exhaust gaskets get hard and make noise like that..
 As for the noise over bumps we mostly see that one as strut noise and find them to be leaking..Good luck

kurtq1

Thanks auburn63. I'm taking it to a new mechanic tomorrow. He also mentioned the exhaust shields. Hopefully that's it. I'll let you know.