Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

theracoon

If the original damage is indeed a "chip" caused by something hitting the hood then it's unlikely the dealer or Honda will pay of the repair. But it can't hurt to ask and/or demand. The worst they can say is No.

mir

Thanks varmint. By the way I read some of your posts before I bought that car. It is my third Honda: Prelude, Civic 94, now CR-V 04. So you can tell my mind was set for it, still it was nice to read details ablout history and RT4WD. Thank you for the posts.

silver_bullet

Actually, I've noticed the same thing both on the CR-V and the Civic Si hatchback - there seems to be almost nothing shielding the wheel arches from the engine compartment. I've looked under the hoods of both of these cars after a few thousand miles, and the engine compartments seem exceptionally dirty, I'm guessing from wheel splash and spray. My '97 Nissan pickup has fully shielded wheel arches, and a front splash shield. Even after driving in a heavy rain, the engine compartment stays clean and dry. This is one of the few CR-V "features" I'm not happy about. It seems unfinished, especially for a vehicle that might reasonably be used on the occasional dirt road or trail.

richk6

My first winter in my 02 EX convinced me there is a need for some protection in the wheel well openings. The back half of the engine bay had quite a bit of road salt.

Unlike the opening at the bottom of the engine bay, these openings get whatever the front tires directly toss into them. Especially when turning.

I installed rubber "mud flaps", a variation of what CR-V owner Chris Walker designed on his web site.

     http://www.cwbr22088.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CRV-WEB/

This flaps stopped a fairly large portion of road debris from coming in the engine bay. After a winter, the outside surface (facing the tires) of these flaps are coated white with salt.

If you drive in an area that hasn't winter road salt or don't drive off road in muddy areas, they probably aren't needed. That's just my opinion.

varmint

This is one of those issues that people just need to make up their own minds on. But this has been my experience.

1. You haven't seen a dirty engine compartment until you've seen the inside of my CR-V. My '99 has closed wheel arches. They don't stop anything.

2. The same wheel well design has been used on all the new Civics and the Element. Dodge and Chevy have used similar designs on their pick-up trucks and SUVs. This is not something new. Engine compartments are designed to get dirty.

3. I have never heard of anything bad that has happened as a result of dirt in the engine compartment. I take mine offroad (dirt trails) quite frequently, and I will also take the occasional trip into "real" offroading (Paragon ORV Park most recently). Anyway... I have plenty of dirt in there. If dirt were a problem, my mechanic would have told me. The crotchety old bugger complains about plenty of other stuff...

The whole issue seems to stem from the notion that dirt or salt is somehow bad. I have seen nothing to prove that. Now, if you're the type who likes to have a nice clean engine compartment and washes the treads of your tires, then go for it. You won't hurt anything by installing those gaiters. Your mechanic will look at you funny (mine does for my sound insulation), but that's no biggie, either.

richk6

Varmint

I certainly am not paranoic about wanting a clean engine compartment.(Didn't miss the sarcasm about clean engines and washing tire threads). I know dirt and engines go together over time. I also think the majority of people on these forums do appreciate and would want a clean engine compartment.

Salt is another issue. Salt + metal + time = corrosion. The firewall of the V is painted metal that is not undercoated and is directly in back of these well openings.

If you trade in vehicles every few years, I'm sure as you say nothing bad will happen. I keep mine a long time and won't mind if my mechanic will look at me funny.

mir

Richk6, I appreciate your instructions. It is great to see someone took on the subject seriousely. I will sure try to use them - thanks. Varmint I see you might not put it on your priority list, still in Chicago it can get snowy. Certainly, it will not hurt to have that "extra" protection from salt. I just bought it last Saturday, so I am trying to take care of it, since I have the will and time. I will prioritize it over the soudnd proofing the car, but if I still have the time and will, I will be glad to do it as will. If you have posted on it already, I will glad to read it. If not I would appreciate few words on it. Tahnks.

isellhondas

If a flying rock hits your hood, it'll leave a chip. The make of car has nothing to do with this.

drive62

How does everyone who has modified their suspension pass through know that they aren't doing damage somehow? I tend to think the Engineers who designed the vehicle know what they are doing. Vehicles are designed with many components to be interdependant on others. Change something and something else may not like it. I may be wrong. Doesn't bother me in the least and I live in the rust belt too. I've heard of (and experienced) body panels rusting from salt, never heard of an engine doing it.

varmint

Drive62 - The modification (if done properly) shouldn't cause any damage. It's just a slotted, flexible guard. I suppose if a piece breaks off it might get lodged some place where you wouldn't want it. But it's equally possible for that to happen with a piece of debris from the road (a stick, branch, or something).

Here's a thought. Go to Paintscratch.com and buy a can of clearcoat. Spraying that on the sheetmetal in the engine bay is probably a good deal easier than constructing custom gaiters.

I live in the Boston area and drive north during ski season frequently. So I see my own share of salt. My CR-V has accumulated 95,000 miles over the past 5 years and I have no rust in the engine compartment. I do have a bit of rust here and there on the suspension and support members under the car. Probably because I've nicked the paint off those parts while scrambling over rocks.

I do take pretty good care of the outside and interior. No problems there except the same rock chips mentioned above.

I've cleaned the engine compartment a big once since I bought it. It was about a year ago. I'll never do it again. Water got past the plastic bag I was using to cover the electricals. I paid out $500 for a new distributor and a few other electrical parts as a result. After I've gone off-roading, I'll hose out the radiator. I'll do it from the inside out, but I'm very careful about not splashing water near the engine.

It's like I wrote before... People can (and will) do whatever they want. The gaiter certainly shouldn't hurt anything. But there have been many designs (a lot of off-roadable trucks included) that have similar holes in the wheel wells. I figure if it were a problem, the designers would know about it by now.

BTW, concerns over this were brought to Honda's attention. I think it was a Civic owner who made the inquiry. Honda responded that none of their testing showed a problem with debris accumulation. The response was posted somewhere in this forum (or maybe the main CR-V thread) a few years back. You might find it with a search. I could be mistaken about this next part, but I think they even claimed that the increased air flow could keep the engine bay cleaner. I'm not sure I believe that one.

Hmm... note to self... I should dig up that response and publish it in the FAQ thread.

drive62

Very good post varmint. I guess it's my philosophy not to mess with the design of a vehicle. Cosmetic things sure. But that pass through was put there for a reason and as much as I like to think I know about cars I'm not going to alter the design of someone who does it for a living. My $0.02.

mir

I am going to Honda service/dealer on Tuesday, I will try to find out their view on it. Will keep you posted.

buckwalter1

I do most of my own work on my 97 "V". Oil change routine includes Mobil 1 and filter every 5k miles. After dropping the oil, I spray the back of the engine and chassis parts with a mix of dish soap and water to let the oil from the filter mount glide off the car and then remove the oil filter from the top, driver's side with my channel locks. After installing the fresh filter I go back underneath to wipe off the residual oil and soapy water and drag out the catch bucket. This works best for me.
Getting ready to swap out the timing belt, anyone recommend changing the water pump and tensioner spring while I am in there? Has 97k miles now. Works good (like a Honda), and feels like it can go up walls with four Blizzacks on steel rims for winter driving in central PA.
I also have the 1997 shop manual and a fax/copy machine....

alphajc

I own a 2004 CR-V, and had a factory alarm installed at the dealership. I think the alarm is malfunctioning because it turns on by itself.

1) I turn off my ignition, remove my key.
2) Open any door, and close it.
3) The alarm light starts blinking rapidly for 30 seconds.
4) The alarm switches on, but door remains unlocked. (car can be disarmed at this point with my remote)

I could swear that it didn't switch on automatically before but I can't be sure. It's becoming a pain when I pump gas (car alarming by itself) and when I take it to a car wash. Car has to be disarmed after I close my door. Can anyone with the factory alarm tell me if the automatic arming is a standard function or a malfunction?

Thanks.

defielding

I to do my oil changes every 5000 Km. (I know, I could get away with extending it for longer intervals) on my '99 CRV. I use Fram oil filters with a material on them that make them easy to grip with your hands. I put them on hand-tight (no filter wrench except for that 1st ultra tight filter from the factory)from under the vehicle while it's on solid wood ramps. While I am at it I always spray all constant velocity rubber boots front and rear of the vehicle with silicone spray (this extends the life of the rubber by keeping them from drying out and cracking). I have washed the engine compartment several times and It looks like brand new, (of course it helps having an engine that is as oil tight as this one is). Varmint is correct though, it can be costly spraying water near any of the electrical components. I know a lady who drove her 2 year old Ford Taurus through a puddle in a storm, thus making a big splash all over the electrics. The car immediately lost all power and after it was towed was determined, (presumably by Ford since it would still be on warranty, otherwise by her insurance company), to be so completely destroyed as to be written off, No Lie!

norne

Is there a way to remove the fine finger nail scratch marks around the door handles?

kyfdx

Boy, do you have great timing. I was over at a friend's house on Saturday. He does all his own car work.. restored an old MG, etc..

As usual, he was ragging on my car care skills (non-skills), and I have a black CRV which has a bad case of those fingernail scratches. He used a product called Imperial Glaze. He says the car care pros use it. Just rubbed it on and buffed it with a rag.. He says you have to put a good wax job over top of it, or it won't last, but the difference is unbelievable. If I can come up with some specific details on availability, I'll post them here.

I don't think it actually removes the scratches, but you sure can't see them after the application.

regards,
kyfdx

llofgren

3M Scratch Remover....works like a charm. Got it at an auto store but may be available at wal-mart.

silver_bullet

The product your friend used is 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. It is a good product, and should work well to remove minor scratches. Fingernail scratches can also be removed easily with Meguiar's Car Cleaner/Wax (red bottle liquid), which will leave some wax protection behind. Make sure the car has been washed before applying any polish, glaze or wax, please :-)

buckwalter1

I am getting ready to change out the timing belt on my 1997 V. It has 97,000 miles. I have the valve cover gasket kit and timing belt. Anyone got advise like change the tensioner spring or water pump while in there?

buckwalter1

Anyone know the background on why Honda offers a free tune up (plugs, plug wires, etc...) and oil change for my 1997 V once it reaches 75,000 miles? I took the letter and car in and they did the work, zero charge and no comments?

kyfdx

Sounds like something your dealer does.. Did you buy it there?

Did they try to get you to change the timing belt? Or, have you already done that?

regards,
kyfdx

skipii

My daughter's 2001 CR-V engine stumbles pretty badly after she has been driving ofr a bit or when she tries to restart it after a short stop. My guess is either fuel filter or fuel pump? Any ideas on how to diagnose? Are there any on-line DIYs for replacement of the filter and pump?

Thanks for any help.

icvci

Buy a Helm manual. www.helminc.com They are the best books you can buy for car repair.

varmint

Alphajc - Try the owners manual. With most alarms, there are several "modes" you can program into the alarm. My 1st gen CR-V doesn't have a factory alarm, so I can't help you, but that is exactly the kind of stuff they hide in the manual.

Skipii - Is it an automatic or manual? I think you're on the right track with the fuel filter and pump. I had an old subie that acted this way. Turned out to be the filters. If the car is a manual, you might check to make sure the clutch is in spec.

alphajc

I have a Honda Security System installed in my 2004 CRV-EX. The system was originally preset into "Manual" mode, but recently it switched to "Auto" mode by itself. Now the car arms itself automatically after 20 seconds.

Can anyone with the Security System manual help me out? I want to switch my system back to "Manual". My dealer never gave me the manual, and also when I visited them today, they did not know how to switch the settings nor have the manual with them.

Thanks.

skipii

I have looked in the spare tire well and do not see anything. I am assuming the pump is on the top of the tank and is lifted through the wheel well.
Help?

kyfdx

Most fuel pumps are inside the tank.. and are actually cooled by the fuel...

regards,
kyfdx

mikefm58

I've got a '99 CRV with 96K miles. Intermittently the doors will not unlock when I hit the unlock button on the remote. I can hear the click and the door lock post moves slightly, just not enough "juice" to unlock it. Any ideas?

varmint

Wacky. I have a '99 CR-V and just rolled over to 96,000 miles on my way to work this morning.

Will the doors unlock if you use the buttons from the inside? I would assume the power buttons inside the car activate the same servos that engage the window motors, but it's worth checking.

buckwalter1

Bought the CR-V in Kansas City, letter came from Honda, took letter and car to dealer in Hershey, PA, he did the work/no questions asked/no charge. I am thinking Honda is recovering from something...

The timing belt is my own idea and effort. I do most of my own maintenance, except sometimes when it is offered free by a dealer. Got the belt, gonna install it next time I get a day to do it (routine maintenance @ 100,000 miles). Wondering if I should refresh the tensioner spring while in there...

silver_bullet

In general, it is a good idea to replace the timing belt tensioner and often the water pump as well when doing this job. When I worked on BMWs equipped with the M20 engine (the only time BMW used a belt as opposed to a chain), it was a rule that the tensioner and belt were replaced together. Since replacing the water pump means disturbing the belt, proactively replacing the pump while dealing with the belt makes sense since you'll avoid duplicative labor.

kyfdx

I agree with the water pump... They are cheap, and you are already in there... You know if you don't, Murphy's Law dictates that it will fail within six months.

jeannie3

I don't know if anyone else has experienced this problem, but I sure have. I started to hear noises when I made a sharp left turn only, it sounded like I was dragging cans under the car. Took it to the dealer... first time they couldn't find anything wrong with it or hear any noise... second time I had the manager drive with me until he heard it. They said the motor mounts needed replaced. Of course its covered under warranty, but they told me that it may happen again due to the design of the car. Now, its not even 6 months later and I hear the noise again. Is anyone else having this problem, or is it just MY CRV? I love this car and I'd hate to have to replace motor mounts every 6 months... NEEDS HELP IN PA.

mikefm58

Yes. No problems unlocking the door manually, either from inside or outside using the key. Only using the remote. Is there a battery in the remote that might be going dead?

mikefm58

I think I might have a short somewhere. Sometimes when I lock the doors using the remote, I can here it continually click, as if I'm hitting the lock on the remote over and over.

buckwalter1

Thanks for the advise. What you say makes me think you have experience on E30's w/ M20's. I have change the belt on my 89 325ix twice, both times changing the tensioner, once replacing the water pump. So far/so good. Always kinds hold my breath a bit the first time I take it to red line after that work, with the interferance fit and my amateur skills....

silver_bullet

You must be doing something right I doubt you'll have any problem working on your CR-V. I haven't replaced the T-belt on a Honda, but on the BMWs we'd often replace the cam oil seal while we had everything apart - we saw plenty of oil leaks that soaked the belt, and caused the belt to delaminate and shed teeth... a very expensive problem as you know, when the cam timing slips and pistons whack the valves.

buckwalter1

You rattled my brain with the cam seal comment, I did replace the cam seal the second time I was in there to stop a small leak. Also replace the head gasket to stop an oil leak overboard, had to swap in the new head bolts anyway, but the bear job was changing the front main seal in the automatic xmission...that took a week of evenings and two weekend. I have a notion the Germans were not dialed in on seal technology in the 80's. (waiting for someone to club us for digressing....)

sg7

Hi all, I posted a note somewhere else, but no response...maybe it's a bizarre question and no one wants to play. I tested an CRV EX 5M and adored the car, but had a strange ergonomics thing going with the BIG bucket seat and my arm hitting the edge of it each time I shifted. I have never had that on any manual before (don't want auto) and was wondering if any other woman who is small has experienced this and if there is an easy solution-besides eating my Wheaties-as I love this car! I was pretty sore in my neck and legs after driving (not a good sign for a day)despite attempting to adjust the seats this way and that. Kind of embarrassing to post, but I am going to try another manual as this one also had 700 miles, which made me a bit suspicious as I know they sell fast. I would love to hear from anyone even if you rib me...no pun intended.

bshel

Hi sg, I wish I could help regarding the seat interference. I'm 5'10 so I don't have an issue with it while shifting. Maybe you could fold a towel and sit onthat and see if it helps you clear the side. Not ideal but they are pretty wide/large seats.

sg7

Hi, thanks for the thoughts and for taking the time to respond. I told a friend, I have a feeling this would not be an issue for someone 6' or so. I wonder if there is some way to change a seat out, or if the LX seats are smaller. I am going to have the hubby drive it today and see if it bugs him to. I am really sad as I do love the car and really don't want to settle for an automatic. I have one now and really miss the control of the manual.

edunnett

We just brought a new 04 CRV. It drives well but we have noticed that it drifts or pulles to the right when you let go of the steering wheel. The dealer service department told me that there is a natural pull to the right on these cars. I have never heard of this has anyone else? Also does anyone know if the moonroof wind sheild adds wind noise when the roof is closed?

theracoon

We just brought a new 04 CRV. It drives well but we have noticed that it drifts or pulles to the right when you let go of the steering wheel. The dealer service department told me that there is a natural pull to the right on these cars. I have never heard of this has anyone else?

Yes, I've heard of it. The problem was common enough with the 1st Gen CR-Vs that it was often referred to as PTTR (PullToTheRight). It is not a safety feature. It is a problem and should and can be fixed. Have the dealer rebalance the tires and do an alignment. Sometimes rotating the tires also "fixes" it.

Good luck.

bshel

Moonroof shield adds no noise when closed. It is a great accessory to have.

cybernut04

I asked on this forum this past March (shortly after buying a CR-V)about changing the seat (problem with my back and the front seats of the CR-V), and was advised not to go there - "I know of one owner who replaced the seats with the ones from an RSX. But you can bet that any modification like that won't pass the standards of federal law. In the event of a crash, you'll open yourself up to lawsuits from anyone who rides in the passenger seat."

If you pursue this and find out that you can replace the front seats without this issue of liability, please post something to this forum about it. Me and my back would appreciate it!

sg7

Hi, thanks for writing. WOW! So it effects you also. It is strange, this has never happened in a car before. I took another manual out again and it was just like the first day. I am feeling it today. Not a good sign and I would have no idea how to modify that. I tried an automatic, but I did not like the way it drove. I can't tell you how this saddens me, as this was THE car and I was ready to buy it. Had everything I wanted sporty-truck like feel, stability and room for gear. I don't like the design of the Forester...it's so....PLAIN...but...Now I think I am going to wait I think now for the 05 and see if there is anything different as there is nothing to read yet. Big secret or something. Thanks so much again for writing

sg7

Cybernut, my first writing just vanished...I just went and read through your March postings. WOW! I am grateful to have read that as I can see that if this is showing up after a 6 hour day, then I am pretty much doomed if I buy it. Like you, I keep my seat always in the most upright postition when driving (not a lounger) and this has never been an issue for me in all my years of driving. I can almost feel it as I am driving because of the way it "forces" you to sit. After sitting in the Forester seat which is more comfortable then any couch in my house, it was something to compare. I could also see that although rare there is something that does effect some of us and since I am an outdoor type...I don't think it's my stomach muscles Tears streaming down my face now, as I was ready for the trade in and the new HONDA! Uggg...do I have to get the utilitarian Forester...? Thanks for letting me know about your March post!

isellhondas

It depends. All cars will slowly drift to the right if you let go of the steering wheel!

Big difference between a "drift" and a "pull".

kizhe

I had NEW 2004 CRV EX. It NEVER pulled to any direction. If yours does - this is a problem.
Need alignment check. IMO - balancing the wheels
is not a problem here - you got new tires anyway.
I rotate my tires every 5k and balance them every 15k. My EX is 27K now and my (stock) tires looks like new. They are little noisy IMO, but it's another story... .