Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

fussycrvowner

AllData has specs for checking the parking brake. The parking brake should fully apply when pulling the lever 10 clicks. If it travels more and doesn't hold, the cable and/or the parking brake shoes in the wheel may need to be tightened up a bit. Fortunately, the parking brake is separate from the regular brakes and shouldn't have been damaged too much.

jmowatt

:confuse: anybody have a shake on take off like a worn motor mount or drive shaft wiggle only under power then is gone at speed!!!! Its AT with 140 KM thanks Jack

jmowatt

worst thing will be overheated drums and shoes or pads and rotors check for color if they were hot they will be blue and shoiuld be changed but if no colors!!!!!!!!!! you got lucky .... just drive it..................jack

fussycrvowner

Honda has a service bulletin 04-070 addressing transmission vibrations. It is a matter of adjusting the rubber stops on the transmission mounts and gluing them into position. Seems to affect the ones built in England with VIN numbers beginning SHSRD...

fussycrvowner

Mine has that also. Nothing serious - just a matter of the brake pads shifting whenever there is a change in direction. I hear it and think the suppension is going to fall off any minute!!! A good place to start is to see if your library has access to a database called Alldata. Most of the service bulletins are posted there and you can access without having to pay the subscription fees.

kls

I just purchased a 2005 Honda LX 4WD vehicle. I have been reading all the correspondence regarding the “pull to the right” problem so I have been consciously on the look out for it while driving. I’m not sure if it’s really happening to my car or if I’m imagining it because the seed has been planted in my mind. My question is – is an obvious, impossible to mistake kind of thing, or could it be very slight and subtle? Sometimes I think it’s there and other times I’m positive it isn’t – I’m confused. Can anyone clarify? Thanks.

kathyp13

I just purchased a 2003 CRV for my college bound daughter. I was led to believe that it had ABS brakes and even registered it on the owner link and it popped up under the safety subtitle as having ABS. I am confused as to why on the LXS model you seem to get conflicting answers about this safety feature that I consider very important. What is the difference between the LX and the LXS models? The one I bought is the LXS with the optional side impact airbags. Got any ideas? Thanks!

jillstar

I just wanted to say I'm grateful to have found this resource. Thanks to this forum I found some helpful advise about calling Honda Corporate about my compressor problem and they are covering 100% of the bill with no hassle. If I hadn't gotten that suggestion I probably would have ended up paying for the repairs myself or spent time and possible anguish arguing with the dealership about it. You all have saved me lot of money and a lot of stress. I also found a great resource for tire reviews and comparison, www.tirerack.com.

Thanks so much!
Jill

mikefm58

From your description, your's sounds like a gentle drift, which can occur on any road based on many conditions. In the examples of posters who claimed they had the PTTR disease, it was a serious pull as soon as letting go of the steering wheel. They also noticed the arm they used to hold the wheel started looking like a tennis player's arm.

mikefm58

Good for you.........sorry to hear about the compressor going, looks like Honda is doing the right thing.
.
I too use tirerack.com, great resource for investigating tires and wheels. The prices aren't too bad, but the shipping tends to make the cost too much compared to local stores.

laurie_lu

Thanks for all the replies. I'm thinking I did NOT hear ten clicks when I pulled on the brake and maybe I didn't pull it hard enough to do the trick. I'll have hubby take a peek as suggested.

Laurie

laurie_lu

Holy Cow! You sound just like me in reguards to wondering if my new cr-v has the dreaded PPTR or not. If I had not read about this, I'd probably not even notice the slight drifting to the right I occasionally experience. I wonder if it is just the crowning in the road or the real PPTR. I am guessing I don't have it since I don't have to fight the steering wheel continuously. I try to find a totally flat surface in the road and I let go of the wheel to see what happens. Half the time I stay straight. Other times I go to the right. I find myself being obcessively concerned about it and am always testing the steering on flat surfaces.

I do however believe I have the steering torque issue. Whenever I am at a complete stop and press on the accelerator, I have a very strong pull to the right which lasts a few seconds and then the steering feels normal. I read this is normal but never noticed it in any front wheel drive car I've owned.

Laurie

chitowncrvownr

The alternator on my 2005 LX seems to cycle between 12.6 V (battery voltage), and 14.6 V during normal driving conditions, leading me to believe it's either full on or off (charging-wise). Is this normal?? Never saw this on any vehicle I've owned. Reeks havoc on my aftermarket audio amplifier. Looks like isolation diodes and lots of capacitance are going to be necessary...but I just wanted to confirm this alternator function was NORMAL????? Is this some attempt by Honda for gas-savings?

Thanks...~Rob

blueiedgod

I just wanted to say I'm grateful to have found this resource. Thanks to this forum I found some helpful advise about calling Honda Corporate about my compressor problem and they are covering 100% of the bill with no hassle. If I hadn't gotten that suggestion I probably would have ended up paying for the repairs myself or spent time and possible anguish arguing with the dealership about it. You all have saved me lot of money and a lot of stress. I also found a great resource for tire reviews and comparison, www.tirerack.com.

Thanks so much!
Jill

Glad it worked for you. I have always believed that Honda would stand behind their product. I was not disappointed.

kls

Laurie:

Thanks for writing - I feel better knowing someone else is experiencing the same thing as me. I feel confident now that I DO NOT have the PTTR issue and I promised myself that I am going to stop stressing about it and enjoy my new vehicle.

I love this forum - very helpful - thanks to all.

kls

mikefm58

" Half the time I stay straight. Other times I go to the right. "

My '99 CRV does that as well as my wife's '04 Highlander. And I'm sure both my son's vehicles would do that too. I think you're vehicle is fine.

skjhasahsuuu

Need a new battery for a 1999 CR-V. Because I use an accessory with a large current draw ( ham radio) I woudl like to install an oversize, possibly deep cycle battery to replace the puny one that came with the car.

Has anyone done this considering there is a fixed-size "platform" and limited space between the firewall and wheel well in the 99 CR-V?

Thanks in advance ....

blueiedgod

Need a new battery for a 1999 CR-V. Because I use an accessory with a large current draw ( ham radio) I woudl like to install an oversize, possibly deep cycle battery to replace the puny one that came with the car.

Has anyone done this considering there is a fixed-size "platform" and limited space between the firewall and wheel well in the 99 CR-V?

Thanks in advance ....

Put a sealed battery in the back and run gauge 8 or lower power cable to the front. You may also want to get one of those automatic battery switches they sell for RV's to keep both batteries charged without putting too much strain on the alternator.

On the second thought, if you are running high power accessories, you may want to consider upgrading the alternator.

fussycrvowner

Try one of the Optima batteries. It is a sealed unit and holds up better in higher current draw situations. I ended up installing one in mine because the stock battery would not hold a sufficient charge for winter starting. The alternator barely kept the original sufficiently topped off with accessories running full blast. A bit pricey at around $130 but piece of mind means a lot when you sweat having to jump below zero degrees...

fussycrvowner

Had that too on the '02. I had the shop perform the service bulletin where they remove the front struts and re-position the spring plates on top. With a complete alignment, I have no more problem with drift, unless it is caused by road crown. A way to test is to drive in the left lane for awhile and see if it drifts left. Sometimes, switching the front tires to verify if it pulls the other way will rule out a tire pull.

eilros

This morning I took a 2000 SE for a test drive. When I made tight turns (lock-to-lock), there was a knocking sound in the rear end. Is this normal? Does it have anything to do with the all-wheel drive system? Any help will be appreciated. Also are there any areas to closely check for wear? The CR-V I drove has 61,000 miles.

Thanks,
Dave

richk6

Any suggestions what to use for rubber gasket maintenance on my 02V? Is silicone spray harmful? The can states silicone in compatible with rubber, but the contents lists petroleum distillates and mineral oil. I thought oil products were harmful to rubber.

I want something to keep the gaskets preserved and pliable in th long term.

kyfdx

I've heard someone mention "lithium grease"?

Do a search here in Town Hall for it...

codyd

Greetings. Our 2002 Honda CRV Engine light when on 4 days ago after getting gas. It seems like we didn't hear the cap click 3 times at the station, but are not sure. We did not get the extended warranty. My husband is a disabled Vietnam Vet and right now we have no money to fix the car. The CRV seems to be running well. We have not noticed any engine problems at all. We have gone through the supposed 3 trips after tighening the cap and it is still on. I phoned the Honda dealer for general information and a diagnostic is $55.00. Then if it's in the emissions system like a sensor he said it could be $200-$300.00.....maybe. Only the catalytic converter and a few other parts are covered under warranty to 80,000. He said probably this problem is not covered. This is the first new car either of us ever had and we honestly never dreamed of having a problem with it at 3 years old. What are our options? Any help would be appreciated.

blueiedgod

This morning I took a 2000 SE for a test drive. When I made tight turns (lock-to-lock), there was a knocking sound in the rear end. Is this normal? Does it have anything to do with the all-wheel drive system? Any help will be appreciated. Also are there any areas to closely check for wear? The CR-V I drove has 61,000 miles.

Thanks,
Dave

Read the FAQ created by Varmint. This is a tell tale sign of rear differential needing fluid change. The worst case scenario is that the differential fluid has not been changed for a very very long time and this has caused permanent damage. Have the seller knock the price of the car down by the cost of differential replacement (you can geta qoute from Honda). Buy the car and change the fluid. You woul dhave to buy the fluid from Honda, it is called dual pump fluid, nothing else would work there. The cost is about $10 for 2 quarts. If that fixes it, you pocket the money the seller knocked off. If it does not help, then you replace the differential.

blueiedgod

Any suggestions what to use for rubber gasket maintenance on my 02V? Is silicone spray harmful? The can states silicone in compatible with rubber, but the contents lists petroleum distillates and mineral oil. I thought oil products were harmful to rubber.

I want something to keep the gaskets preserved and pliable in th long term.

I have used Vaseline on old cars that had leacky sunroovs. Never had a problem. Also use it on the door gaskest to prevent them from freezing to the frame in the winter. Vaseline keeps the water from getting between gasket and seating surface.

theracoon

I've heard someone mention "lithium grease"?

White lithium is used for mechanical components (door hinges, for example) but not for seals. Silicon spray applied to a cloth and then lightly rubbed on to the seals is what I use for my doors.

JM2C

mikefm58

I'd take it to your local auto parts store and they should be able to read the engine codes and give you a few possibilities. They'll do this for free. I did this with my son's Mustang and replaced an O2 sesnor for $60, saved about $200 compared to the dealer. You can also disconnect your negative battery terminal for a couple minutes so your engine codes reset. If it was the gas cap, the light won't come on again.

codyd

Hi Mike, Thanks for the help. We will try your suggestions and get back to the forum. It use to be my husband could fix and has fixed just about anything that went wrong with our old vehicles. Then we get our first new car ever and don't know where to start.

serenity4

I have a 2001 CRV and have been back and forth to the dealer for over a year. There is a noticeable vibrating sound somewhere in the rear of the car. They changed the differential fluid and still makes the sound. It happens when you accelerate, but not at any specific speed. It happens every time I drive. Once I increase the speed a little after it starts making the sound, the noise goes away for a little while. Any ideas?

quimbyts

Had the vehicle in at the dealer last week. A new CR-V on their lot had the exact same problem. He thinks it's a defective solenoid between the brake pedal and the gear shift lever. He is going to check with Honda on Monday but there certainly must be other CR-V's out there with the same problem.

darren_de_vos

I hear ya, wow, A/C failure seems to be a very common problem with the 2nd gen CR-V's - it is great to see all the feedback. I wish I had thought to review the forum when this happened.

July 11, 2005 - I took my 2002 CR-V EX-L VIN JHLRD78952C80......(77,511 KM - so out of warranty) in to Honda to have the A/C checked because it was blowing warm air ($92 CAD +tax to have this done). Since it was out of warranty, they quoted me $1739.55 CAD +tax for the repair - summarized below;
Parts required:
HO 38924PND006, SET SOLENO (Coil Set) = $144.18 CAD
HO 38810PNB006, AC COMP (Compressor) = $901.96 CAD
HO 38900PNB006, SET COMPR. (Clutch) = $353.41 CAD
HO 80872ST7000, O-RING 1/2 (2 O-Rings Req) = $6.50 CAD (each)
HO 80871ST7000, O-RING 5MM = $7.12 CAD
HO 91503SZ3003, CLIP,BPR A
NP R134A, REFRIGERAN (Refrigerant) = $50 CAD
Labour = $376 CAD

Feeling this was an unacceptable problem to have happen at such low mileage and with the dealer unwilling to help, I presued Honda corporate to see if they could do anything for me. I RECOMMEND PERSUING THIS AVENUE as blueiedgod has recommended as well.

In the end, after the dealership service manager worked with the Honda regional manager, they offered a "a three-way compromise - HONDA GOODWILL TO ASSIST" - Honda Canada would pay 1/3, the dealer would pay 1/3 and I would pay 1/3. Seeing as this seemed a little more reasonible (being out of warranty and all), I paid $500 CAD +tax for the repair.

It does scare me to see this being a common problem and so I have to wonder how long it will be before by replacement suffers the same fate. Luckily summer is rather short here in Canada so I may have to learn to live without A/C should it happen again.

I did get a quote from an independent garage and they quoted $1200 CAD.

________________
2002 CR-V EX-L, Auto, Canadian Model, Blue.
Costco Michelin X 205/70/15, OEM Fog lights, Roof Rack, Mud Flaps, Front Deflector, Rear Air Deflector, Heated Mirrors.

darren_de_vos

I hear ya, wow, A/C failure seems to be a very common problem with the 2nd gen CR-V's - it is great to see all the feedback. I wish I had thought to review the forum when this happened.

July 11, 2005 - I took my 2002 CR-V EX-L VIN JHLRD78952C80......(77,511 KM - so out of warranty) in to Honda to have the A/C checked because it was blowing warm air ($92 CAD +tax to have this done). Since it was out of warranty, they quoted me $1739.55 CAD +tax for the repair - summarized below;
Parts required:
HO 38924PND006, SET SOLENO (Coil Set) = $144.18 CAD
HO 38810PNB006, AC COMP (Compressor) = $901.96 CAD
HO 38900PNB006, SET COMPR. (Clutch) = $353.41 CAD
HO 80872ST7000, O-RING 1/2 (2 O-Rings Req) = $6.50 CAD (each)
HO 80871ST7000, O-RING 5MM = $7.12 CAD
HO 91503SZ3003, CLIP,BPR A
NP R134A, REFRIGERAN (Refrigerant) = $50 CAD
Labour = $376 CAD

Feeling this was an unacceptable problem to have happen at such low mileage and with the dealer unwilling to help, I presued Honda corporate to see if they could do anything for me. I RECOMMEND PERSUING THIS AVENUE as blueiedgod has recommended as well.

In the end, after the dealership service manager worked with the Honda regional manager, they offered a "a three-way compromise - HONDA GOODWILL TO ASSIST" - Honda Canada would pay 1/3, the dealer would pay 1/3 and I would pay 1/3. Seeing as this seemed a little more reasonible (being out of warranty and all), I paid $500 CAD +tax for the repair.

It does scare me to see this being a common problem and so I have to wonder how long it will be before by replacement suffers the same fate. Luckily summer is rather short here in Canada so I may have to learn to live without A/C should it happen again.

I did get a quote from an independent garage and they quoted $1200 CAD.

________________
2002 CR-V EX-L, Auto, Canadian Model, Blue.
Costco Michelin X 205/70/15, OEM Fog lights, Roof Rack, Mud Flaps, Front Deflector, Rear Air Deflector, Heated Mirrors.

blueiedgod

I have a 2001 CRV and have been back and forth to the dealer for over a year. There is a noticeable vibrating sound somewhere in the rear of the car. They changed the differential fluid and still makes the sound. It happens when you accelerate, but not at any specific speed. It happens every time I drive. Once I increase the speed a little after it starts making the sound, the noise goes away for a little while. Any ideas?

Bent rim
Tire is out of round
Wheels need balancing
CV joints are gone
Brakes are warped

Since you mentioned that it is vibrating sound and not actual vibration, are you driving with the windows all the way up or slightly open? Try closing the windows and see if the noise comes back. Also, see if your HVAC is in Recirculation mode. Having recirc on and openning a rear window will create low frequency pop-pop-pop noise.

Good luck.

theracoon

There is a noticeable vibrating sound somewhere in the rear of the car.

Is it a vibration or a metal rattling sound? If' it's a metal rattle check the heat shield on the catalytic converter.

Also, have you tried letting someone else drive the CR-V until you hear the noise while you climb around in the back trying to hear the exact location of the noise?

reb331

I purchased a used 98 CRV in May 2005 with approx. 60,000 miles on it.In the last few months I noticed a clunking noise which seems to come from the front and rear wheels when I go over bumps at any speed.I took it to a Honda dealer and they seem to think that it is the front and rear stabilizer bushings.It seems unusual that they would go so soon at this mileage. Do you think it may be because of the vehicle being seven years old?? Or something else?

epm1

May want to check circumference (not diameter) of tires- if there is a difference greater than approx. 1.5 inches between the smallest and largest- the vehicle will operate in AWD most of the time. It is a noticeable hum noise.

barbinkc

I have a 98 CRV with 76,000 miles on it and have not had this problem at all. I wouldn't attribute it to the vehicle's age. Since it's been used, it may have something to do with the driving habits of the previous owner (they may have used it more like an off-road vehicle, maybe). I'm just guessing here, but I bought mine used in 2002 with 34,000 miles on it and have not had this problem at all. BTW, I use my CRV more like a car than a truck. It hasn't seen any off-road driving since I've owned it.

blueiedgod

It hasn't seen any off-road driving since I've owned it.

You don't know what you are missing :-)

I am not ragging on you, but why do people buy SUV's when they use them as station wagons? They might as well save the money and buy a station wagon. Oh, did I say station wagon? I forgot it was a forbidden word in the US automotive lexicon. I meant sport wagons, sport cross, 5 door hatchback.. Oh oh, I said hatchback... another forbidden word in the US automotive lexicon. I meant Small Utility Vehicle, lol

reb331

Thanks for the input on my CR-v. I doubt if the previous owner was doing any off roading with this vehicle. It was and is in super premium condition. I looked under the vehicle and noticed that the rear drive shaft may be hitting against the metal drive shaft support.

serenity4

Thank you for the wise advice. I just got back from the Honda dealer and sure enough- it was a cracked heat shield. They said something about there being a doughnut shaped something that was supposed to expand, and wasn't expanding. As a result the heat shield cracked. Since I know nothing about cars, it is a foreign language to me. Howeve, after multiple attempts (and $85/hour checks to never figure out the problem) I am so happy to have it finally fixed! Thanks again.

barbinkc

Well, I had totaled out my Civic the day before I bought my CRV and needed a car pretty quickly. I wanted a used Honda wagon, but they are almost impossible to find if you want low mileage and excellent condition, and I didn't have that kind of time. I test drove this car, liked sitting up higher, and REALLY liked the all-wheel drive capacity which has proven invaluable during snow and ice season, without being a gas hog. BTW, my Civic was a hatchback, but it was too small with two chow dogs in tow, so I was looking for something a bit bigger since I was FORCED to buy another car, and the CRV fit the bill. Would I trade it for a wagon now? No. Would I still be driving my Civic if I hadn't killed it? Yes. I drive 'em till they die.

I would say, why do people buy full-size SUVs that get 9 miles to the gallon when all they really need is a station wagon?

barbinkc

Sounds like that may be your problem then. Good luck!

aehalz

:mad: Hey, all you 2000 CR-V owners. Has your CR-V started to stall, run roughly, even with low mileage? Does the dealer give you all sorts of solutions to the problem except the real one?? Just had an experience in the Nevada desert, miles from nowhere. Engine started running roughly, check engine light came on, then would not idle at all and would not start (car has only 45,000 miles). After some investigation and the help of a Honda mechanic with 20 years of experience found out that 1999-2001 CR-V engines were manufactured with very TIGHT cylinders and that they needed to be adjusted after the first 35-40,000 miles, not the suggested 105,000 miles. Unfortunately for me, had to have the cylinder heads replaced. I did make a deal with American Honda for 25% of the total cost as the car was out of warranty but also found out that the dealer did not have to pay for any of the parts needed for the repair and that American Honda picked up all of the cost. This is the biggest repair scam on the books. Jason Banks at American Honda Customer Service says "Honda has to make some profit on this, don't we?" , even though this is a manufacturing defect. Then he said that I should have purchased the extended warranty and when I asked why do I need a warranty when this type of maintenance wasn't even suggested for 105,000 miles? Didn't have an answer. If there is anyone out there who has had to have the cylinder heads replaced on their CR-V before 105,000 miles, take American Honda to task or take them to court. The courts do not look favorably upon auto manufacturers who have built-in repairs that happen just after the warranty expires, trust me. I've had success with the courts when it comes to this matter.

sky23213

Hi there! I hope someone would be able to give me an idea about a strange thing I noticed on my 2005 CRV SE. Has only 3000 miles, bought new in June. I noticed blueish stiff sprayed on the 4-tube-like thing just in front of the engine, right behind the radiator and the fan - I think it's the exhaust manifold. I wiped it but after driving appears again. I'd think it's the coolant, but never seen blue one, unless Honda uses something really special - the Manual hints to that, saying just about anything to use Honda fluids, oils, etc. But back to the issue - so the blueish spray is back every time. I idled the engine for a few minutes, but nothing happened, which brings me to the thought that there might be some veeerrryy small crack somewhere that gives in only under pressure. I'm seeing the dealer in about 2 hours, so I totally trust u to give me some insight.
Thank You again!

madriver

I agree with fussycrvowner...I was rear-ended in Nov 03 and my 2000 CRV had a LOT of damage (almost totaled). My daughter (passenger) hurt her back and neck, but it was nothing major; she was able to perform in the Macy's parade 2 1/2 weeks later. I was unhurt, although the driver's seat broke in the crash. The car took the impact well, I think, especially considering how fast the guy was going when he hit us (30-40mph). I'm still driving it with about 80K on the odometer, and will replace it next year with either another CRV or a Pilot.

BTW - The Saab that hit us WAS totaled.

madriver

Thanks to all of you for discussion compressor problems - mine literally blew up this morning. I have a 2000 with 78K miles on it. A mechanic friend is going to replace it for me so I'll get a good deal, but now I'll make sure he gives me a bill so I can push back on Honda for at least a partial compensation.

rigg

We purchased a 2000 CRV SE within the past 2 months and the battery wend dead yesterday. After replacing it I found out that the audio system doesn't work (CD,/tape/radio) and the keyless entry also doesn't work. I read the owner's manual to find out that I need a special 5-digit security "code" that came with the vehicle (new). I've contacted the dealership where we purchased the CRV about the card. The manual also says I need the serial number of the audio system. Do any of you know where this serial number is - will it require removing the CD,/tape/radio system to find this number??

Thanks!
George

blueiedgod

I would say, why do people buy full-size SUVs that get 9 miles to the gallon when all they really need is a station wagon?

Yeap. What is worse, these people buy a 2WD, RWD SUV's :-)

blueiedgod

Hi there! I hope someone would be able to give me an idea about a strange thing I noticed on my 2005 CRV SE. Has only 3000 miles, bought new in June. I noticed blueish stiff sprayed on the 4-tube-like thing just in front of the engine, right behind the radiator and the fan - I think it's the exhaust manifold. I wiped it but after driving appears again. I'd think it's the coolant, but never seen blue one, unless Honda uses something really special - the Manual hints to that, saying just about anything to use Honda fluids, oils, etc. But back to the issue - so the blueish spray is back every time. I idled the engine for a few minutes, but nothing happened, which brings me to the thought that there might be some veeerrryy small crack somewhere that gives in only under pressure. I'm seeing the dealer in about 2 hours, so I totally trust u to give me some insight.
Thank You again!

Read the previous posts! Honda antifreeze is BLUE. The car is too new to have a leaky hose, maybe the radiator cap is not tight ernough. Did you happen to remove it to look inside? Or someone at the dealer ship did prior to delivery? When the radiator cap is on properly, it should be parallel to the front of the car/ in line with the radiator.