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More persistent people got the whole thing covered by Honda, even out of warranty and at 90,000 miles. Honda knows about the manual "defect" and is willing to cover these repairs on case by case basis.
IF you want Honda to cover it, take it to the dealer, then call Honda corporate and be persistent. They have covered other people. How much they cover will depend on your negotiating skills.
I don't think keyless entry is related to the battery. 1996-1998 Honda Civic EX had the keyless entry in the stock radio. Honda stopped that practice in 1999.
You options to get the code are:
1) Contact the original selling dealer, sometimes they maintan a database based on the VIN number.
2) Contact the original owner, they may still have the card.
3) Look in the owner's manual, if the previous owner read it, there is a spot to record the security code.
4) Open the glove box and look for a sticker on the sides, or in the fuse compartment. Sometimes dealerships place a second sticker there, for when the techs work on the cars.
5) You will have to remove the radio and get the serial number off the back of it. Give it to your dealer, they will provide you with the security code for FREE, with proff of ownership. The removal of the radio on Gen 1 is a very involved process and requires tearing the whole center console apart. The instructions are available on the net, HandA, this site sponsor has them.
Thanks,
Dorey
Not sure what the rules of Certified USED are, but NEW Honda's come with two regular keys, two remotes and valet key, and OWNER'S MANUAL. I would expect a certified used to have the same. When you go to trade the car in, they deduct $60 for each missing key and a manual. So, you should have gotten a $180 discount if you have only one key and no OWNER'S MANUAL.
As far as the light goes, certified used should have come with a warranty. I am not sure if youhave a $100 deductible that they were talking about. But the light itself is a $0.05 piece and does not require too much labor to replace. If you are handy you can do it your self. You would need to remove the lower dash cover (2 screws), gauge bezel (4 clips) and the gague cluster (3 screws). The bulbs are on the back of the cluster.
I agree with all of what blueiedgod said, except that the remotes only came with the EX models, so if your's is an LX it wouldn't have come with the remotes. As a Honda Certified Used vehicle it should have come with two regular keys and one valet key and an Owners Manual.
Good luck.
So I guess that's another question... Time to consult the manual.
Thanks, Mike,
Dorey
I don't notice any hesitation, but I rarely use full acceleration either.
Thanks
Any small 4 cylinder engine will hesitate with the a/c on. Do you have parking brake on? When was the oil changed? What oil was used? What gas are you buying? Did you ever use a fuel injector cleaner? Did you ever buy gas on an Indian reservation? Do you buy qaulity gas or the cheapest you can find? Do you have allot of stuff in the trunk that can be left in the garage? What is your tires air pressure?
Thanks
Joor jamb sticker.
I will be taking it to my mechanic next week and will have all servicing done (fluids etc and have the basics gone over) so also any suggestions of possible problem areas to make sure to check would be fabulous.
Thanks in advance! S in MT
Is it different from other gas stations? I drive near Indian reservations fairly often, and it would be good to know why that might be a problem...
Make sure the timing belt has been changed. It should have been done at 105,000 miles. If it breaks it will cause considerable ($$$) damage to your engine.
The dealer was pleasant to deal with- AHMc customer service was anything but. It appears the Dealer is not happy having to do the work for AHMc at “no profit”- AHMc did not appear very happy having to talk to me and I certainly not happy- so I guess this is a “win” for American Honda.
AHMc has not responded to my request for reimbursement of $740.00 for the replacement of a defective SRS seat back sensor. No one is interested in resolving a ignition switch hot key issue from the day the vehicle was delivered. The best explanation is “it is normal“- or “it is the type of key“-or “it is my imagination“- but I ask everyone I see in parking lots getting in or out of a V and they say their ignition key does not get hot.
Like VW did in the past it appears Honda is getting away from their heritage and reputation for building quality reliable cars and caring for their customers in order to save a few dollars on manufacturing costs. Once the reputation they have spent years building is tarnished it becomes difficult if not impossible to regain.
Is it different from other gas stations? I drive near Indian reservations fairly often, and it would be good to know why that might be a problem...
I guess not all indian reservations are created equal. The one by me sells horrible gasoline. My girlfrien'd fuel pump, that was functioning properly, died after filling at the reservation. I had Civic Si at the time, and it would not run as powerfull on reservation gas as it does on Mobil, or even BJ's gas.
Dealer said we needed new rotors as the original equipment, warped and corroded.
Whole job including pads to be done under warranty.
I've seen earlier posts where the owner was stuck with a cost to turn th erotors.
Hopefully this means that Honda has ID'ed a material or design problem and is stepping up.
At least I hope they are not replacing with the same parts.
I avoid all the no-name stations.
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There is a Hondamedic in Rockland county. I haven't used them as I do my own work. But heard that they were good and charged half the hourly labor rate Honda charges. I want to say they are on Rt. 59, or whatever is the route that is perpendicular to I-287 by the Palisades mall. It is north of the mall.
Thanks, Coudiebug....
Thanks, Coudiebug....
I believe it is H4 or 9004. You are probably better off looking it up in the manual for the replacement, but it is not difficult. Definatley not worth paying $40 for the dealer to do that.
You need to squeeze the connector to release it, pull the rubber boot off. Push the spring loaded holder in and out. Take out the bulb. Put the new one same way the old one came out, making sure it is flat and level. Press the spring loaded holder in and up to lock it in. Boot the rubber boot back on and click on the connector.
Expect to get your hands dirty and greasy. :-)
Engine light came on again 2 days ago. Took it to my mechanic to read the code, which was a code P1706, automatic transaxle, however, I specifically told them not to reset. Is this related to the transmission? The warranty is an extended one on the powertrain, which expires September 1st. It's going back to the dealer on Friday. Should I tell them I know what the code is ahead of time? Also, they're only covering a warranty on the replaced transmission until September 1st, basically they're only guaranteeing it for 6 weeks!
I've been told by a friend that dealerships don't like you to contact the corporate office (in this case AHC) because they can override whatever the dealership is trying to do (like screw you over, for instance). So I'm wondering, should I be contacting them about the warranty on this replaced transmission, and if so, what is a reasonable warranty for something like this? I'm thinking it should be for at least a year, but now I'm wondering if they didn't just stick another problematic transmission in there thinking it would be out of warranty by the time it acted up. Any advice, or thoughts on this would be appreciated.
VANESSA
Call Honda regional. Others here have done that and Honda regional paid for most of the repair if not all.
My 2003 has had a hot key since day one, no problems so far...
Good luck.
1. During acceleration the engine accelerates smoothly until the VTech tries to kick in. When this happens the engine hesitates
2. Yesterday I heard a loud noise (ka-thunk!) in the engine as I was parking the car at a friends house. :sick: When I left I noticed the air conditioning was no longer working so I figured the AC compressor had failed. So I called the dealer and talked with a service rep. He told me they were three weeks out on repairs so since the car was no longer under warranty, I should just go to another local mechanic if I was in a hurry. Mind you, I live in Hawaii and we're in the middle of August!
Before proceeding, I decided to do some internet research and thanks to this forum, I realized that I'm not the only one who has had an AC compressor go out around the 50,000 mile mark.
About an hour into my research though, i received a call from my friend where the problem had occurred. He said he found a car part lying in his driveway and wanted to know if it was mine. So I went and picked it up and started looking where it might fit on my car. Well, it turns out that it's the clutch assembly which goes on the outside of my AC Compressor and the bolt which was sheared off.
Honestly, I've owned four Honda's and I'm not used to parts falling off of them at 52,000 miles. So I called the service manager at the dealership and explained the problem. I then gently asked if it wouldn't be better if I called Honda America and he agreed that was a better place to start. So I called Honda and the customer service agent stated that the car had to be diagnosed by the dealership. When I explained that the service manager had told me to call he was none to pleased. I then explained that after all my years of working on cars I didn't need someone to diagnose how a compressor clutch assembly came to fall to the ground with a sheared off bolt. He finally agreed to start up a case file and I'm now awaiting a call back from a case manager.
Any advice at this point would be great. Did the compressor seize up and thus shear the bolt off?
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon: After hearing the other complaints here, I'm beginning to think this is a defective part which needs to be recalled. Either that or a class action suit by owners of these defective parts seems to be in order.
Thoughts?
Again, thanks all for the help -- I would have been stuck with the full bill otherwise. Actually, I still may get stuck with it but I hope not.
VANESSA
A) Learn to type with mixed letters, not CAPS alone. People don't like to be yelled at!
Just wait on Honda America. They're done the right thing for folks that have posted here, but be persistent with them and the dealer.
And drop the class action lawsuit stuff as that would only put most of the money in the lawyer's pocket.
First off, VTECH is a phone, VTEC is something Honda invented. When you say VTEC is trying to engage what RPM's is this happening at? The i-VTEC you have is not the same old VTEC Honda had on 1991 NSX and through 2000 Civic Si. The i-VTEC is different in a way that there is no one engagement point. Bellow 2200 RPM your engine is in a 12 valve economy mode similar to VTEC-E from 1993 Civic VX. From 2200 RPM to about 5000 RPM you are in full 16 valve mode. From 5000 RPM your lift and duration change to accomodate high RPM operation. Which VTEC mode do you feel the hesitation? People have reported VTEC actuator failing. This could be the answer. IF the VTEC module fails, then your engine goes into "limp mode," the revs are limited to 4000-5000 RPM. Could it be the tranny? Do you have auto or manual?
2. Yesterday I heard a loud noise (ka-thunk!) in the engine as I was parking the car at a friends house. When I left I noticed the air conditioning was no longer working so I figured the AC compressor had failed. So I called the dealer and talked with a service rep. He told me they were three weeks out on repairs so since the car was no longer under warranty, I should just go to another local mechanic if I was in a hurry. Mind you, I live in Hawaii and we're in the middle of August!
Honda has covered most poeple's A/c repairs if they had proof of maintenance performed as per owner's manual.
Any advice at this point would be great. Did the compressor seize up and thus shear the bolt off?
After hearing the other complaints here, I'm beginning to think this is a defective part which needs to be recalled. Either that or a class action suit by owners of these defective parts seems to be in order.
Yep, that is what has been happening with A/c compressors. I doubt anyone would win with a class action suit but a sleasy lawyer pocketing millions in settlement fees, while the owner's get a free oil change certificate. Class action suits only benefit the lawyers, not consumers. Honda does cover the repairs on "case by case" method. A recall is onyl done if the item in question is related to safety. A/C is comfort item, and is in no way related to safety. Unless you can prove in court that by sweat beading down in your eyes causes you not to see the read and results in an accident. Chances are the judge will send you to driving school, rather than say that A/C is a saftey item and look like a fool.
Why would maintenance have anything to do with a complete compressor failure? There isn't any maintenance on those.