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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • My 99 with 63,000 did indeed need the rear differnetial fluid changed. It was getting to the point that on any rather sharp turn, (especially at very low speeds) would start a large vibration throughout the car. Today they changed it and I can turn at 1 mph in a parking lot with the wheel fully turned and all is nice and quiet.

    Still am shocked the Honda is not sending us a letter on this. Such an easy fix for something that could cost hundreds of dollars to fix.

    I'm a bit concerned that my rear differential is somewhat worn out from me going so long with this condition.
  • Thank you so much, Varmint.

    I'll ask my service dept. about it. Hopefully they won't need to hear it, because it sounds like by the time I drive there the heat will have nullified the problem.

    Luckily, I could bring my new-car-purchase survey and suggest that I'll fill it out while I wait for them to "fix" the clips. ;-)

    It's not too bad once I know that the car isn't going to crack in half. Knowledge is comfort, sometimes.
  • cam3cam3 Posts: 6
    Has anyone experienced a metal to metal sound at 2000 rpms on a 2001 crv? I thought it was the heat shield but it wasn't. The exhaust is OK?
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Check your timing belt. The tensioner can become loose.
  • cam3cam3 Posts: 6
    It sound like it's coming from underneath the driver side. The car has 71,000 miles.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Back in 2000, this was an issue with vehicles that had relatively low mileage. Many posters reported hearing a sound they described just as you did. It sounded like a loose heat shield. The RPM range varied, but they always quoted something well below 3,000 rpms.

    When they took the car into the shop, the mechanics addressed the problem by adjusting the tension on the belt, or replacing the belt tensioner.

    Of course, I cannot be certain that the belt tension is the problem. However, you've described a known problem using almost exactly the same words as were used by others in the past.
  • My CR-V in Hong Kong of 2 years old with 40,000 KM normal on-road drive. It was susprised that 2 out of 3 engine mounts have been completely broken. It is sure a product quality and design problem of Honda. Other owners are advised to inspect their engine mount before their warranty expired.
  • I just bought a 2003 CRV with 38K+ miles (so out of original new warranty).

    I am trying to decide whether to purchase an extended warranty (from CarMax, $1700 to take me an additional 6 years/60K miles).

    I've always bought warranties in the past, but keep hearing that Hondas are so mechanically reliable that to do so will be a waste of money.

    On the other hand, the only reason I traded from my 95 Volvo was to avoid the constant money on repairs I was getting into....

    I know this is a typical "to insure or not to insure" question but if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 64,692
    If you have the $1700 on hand, put it in the bank and keep it for a "repair fund". Chances are, you will be way ahead in the end.. And, you'll be able to shop for the best deal on repairs, and not worry about dealing with a 3rd party warranty company..


    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • Hello
    After just reading an article about my CR-V catching fire after an oil change, I thought I would find a forum to ask some questions. The article said that there had been reports of fires in the engine compartment due to sloppy oil changes or if the gasket wasn't removed properly. The oil would fall onto the exhaust pipe and flame up. I have 47,000 mi. on my '02 Honda. I have had Honda and Valvoline change my oil. Thus far no fires.
    The article mentioned the problem occurring on 2003 and 2004 CR-Vs. I called my dealer and asked them about this report, which they were aware of, and why my '02 wasn't involved. They told me that the oil filter location changed after 2002. Is this true? Why would they change the engine layout after 2002? I'm not really complaining here but the answer didn't sound right. Is it physically impossible for my '02 to catch fire due to an improper oil change?
    Thank you
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    < why my '02 wasn't involved >

    That's the question no one can answer as there were no design changes from 02 to 03 or 04. You're dealer is full of it. The mystery has to do with the first oil change. I'd say your better than most, but logic also tells me you're at risk simply due to the location of the oil filter. I wouldn't ret it though.
  • Sounds like you read the same article as I did today (11/11/04 - "Click & Clack" - Tom and Ray Magliozzi - "CR-V oil fires should be a concern").
    I, too, have a 2002 CR-V and have also been wondering why the situation does not include the 2002.
    We did have a serious oil leak episode immediately following an oil change at a local Honda dealership, but thankfully no fire. The genuinely concerned and rather puzzled technician replaced the filter with yet a second one, cleaned-up the oil covered undercarriage and the problem seemed to be solved. No "second gasket" was involved, as I looked at the suspected filter myself.
    I also find it hard to believe that the location of the oil filter was changed after 2002 when that year was the first of a complete redesign of the vehicle.
    These concerns have been E-mailed to the authors of the article indicated above and hopefully some of them will be answered. Stay tuned.
  • nornenorne Posts: 136
    I agree. Paying $1,700 for additional 22k miles of coverage is insane.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 64,692
    well.. I think he was getting another 60K miles on top of the 38K, but still not a good deal.. Hondacare sells the same warranty (granted, he can't get that, since he's already out of warranty) for about $1000.

    Third party warranty companies are a real crap shoot.. Until a solid insurance company like State Farm or Prudential starts selling it, I wouldn't take a chance.


    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • cam3cam3 Posts: 6
    I had my mechanic check out the noise and they think it is an internal transmission problem. I don't sense a problem with the transmission at all. The noise does sound like it's coming from underneath the driver side. My mechanic only works on Hondas and Acuras.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Well... I'm not a mechanic and, given that I've never seen your car, I'm not qualified to make a judgement on many levels. So at this point in time, I think your best bet is to go with what the professionals have to say.

    That said, I'd suggest that you mention the belt tensioner if you haven't already. I won't hurt to have them check it out.
  • I knew it didn't sound right that the oil filter location would have changed the following year. I just needed confirmation. The part that bothers me is that my dealer, whom I've been doing business with since 1982 (civic) gave me a line of #@*$!
    This certainly sounds like a design flaw and a ticking time bomb!
    I'm curious, what has Honda USA said about this? Now I have to confront my dealer and get their full & honest explanation.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "I knew it didn't sound right that the oil filter location would have changed the following year. "

    Well, I think they may have gone to a different model of filter. Maybe that is what they meant.
  • <may have mis-understood explanation>
    No, I'm pretty sure that the service rep explained quite clearly that the location was different than the 2003-2004 models.
  • g1mang1man Posts: 1
    I'm new to the board, so if you have discussed this b4 please forgive. My 03 Ex 4x4 door panel says tire press. should be 26 psi. Dealer performed rotate and balance and I noticed rough ride afterwards. When I checked tire pressure, they had sey it @ 30 psi. I went back and service rep said 28 psi. Who is right? As most of you know, Ford and Firestone can vouch for under-inflated tire problems. What do you reccommend? Also I have Bridgestone Desert Duelers(CRAP) and when the tires are cold the whole car vibrates for 1st 5-6 miles until tires warm up. The dealer says some soft Michelens would fix this. Have any of you changed to Michelens or have any other suggestions? Tyvm, G1man
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    26 psi is the correct pressure. Many owners bump it up to 28 or 30 psi based on personal preference, but ultimately, 26 is the recommended psi set by the engineers who designed the vehicle.
  • Honda also recommends 35 psi for very high speed driving (100 mph). With this in mind if one is doing 80 on the freeway, it probably would be prudent to bump up the psi from 26. :-)
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    I keep mine at 35; it is well below the maximum allowed for the tire, and produces better gas mileage.

    I doubt that the engineers decreed 26 PSI; it was probably the marketing people, who wanted the softer ride.
  • This is my first post. I have an 05 SE, which suggests 29 lbs of pressure, likely due to the slightly wider tread. Should I bump up the pressure for highway travel? This car does 80-85 easily. Thanks
  • tntitantntitan Posts: 306
    I just went through a prolonged discussion on the "tires, tires, tires" forum about tire pressure. I got different answers from tire stores, manufacturers, experts, etc. Yes, you will get better mileage with higher tire pressure and a softer ride with less air pressure. However, after all of my research and discussions IMHO (and I am sure everyone has their own opinion which may or may not agree) I believe the best air pressure for my application (my biggest concerns are safety and longevity of the tires) is 28 psi for our 2002 CRV-EX. The recommeded psi is 26.

    I plan to monitor my treadwear for wear patterns and rotate religiously at 6K. If I was going to run 30-35 psi I would monitor treadwear every 2-3K miles.
  • kizhekizhe Posts: 242
    tntitan: I did not understand, what do you mean by "... I would monitor treadwear every 2-3K miles." .
    How do you monitor treadwear of your tires?
    BTW, I keep my tires (of my CR-V EX 03) at 34psi and do 5-tire rotation every 5K (usually at the same time as I do my oil/filter change).
    I do mostly highway travel.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "Should I bump up the pressure for highway travel? This car does 80-85 easily."

    Don't know about the 2005, but my 2003 said to use 35PSI at 100 miles per hour. I use 35 on all tires, since the freeways generally run at 75, and I like safety margins.
  • There is a 9 psi spread between the posted 26 psi and the 100 MPH psi recommendation of 35 psi. If one travels 80 frequently I surely would lean toward being closer to 35 than 26. There is not any guidance regarding the 9 psi differential. Keeping in mind what happened to Ford and Firestone I am running 30 psi and prior to a long trip I go to 32 psi. To be ultra safe run 35 all the time. But, check you tire wear.
  • tntitantntitan Posts: 306 monitoring treadwear I mean measuring how much tread is left on the tire (8/32, 10/32, etc) all across the tire to make sure the tire is wearing evenly. It is my belief that running your tires at a psi of around 35 will probably cause the middle of the tire to wear more quickly than the outer portion of the tread.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "It is my belief that running your tires at a psi of around 35 will probably cause the middle of the tire to wear more quickly than the outer portion of the tread."

    Well, I'll keep it in mind, but I actually wouldn't mind the stock Dueller tires wearing out...
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