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2013 and Earlier - Hyundai Sonata Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • Yankee4, when calculating an OTD price, you should really remove your trade and any money down as that is not a true representation of what you paid. What you really paid OTD was much higher than the $19,085.63.

    The only reason I bring this up is that there are many variables that bring the cost of a car down that others cannot duplicate. If you stick to the bottom line price they'll sell you the car for plus TTT and then take out rebates, now that will give folks a true representation of what you REALLY paid for your car.

    Your trade was truly just less out of pocket expense :)
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    What rebates did you get and what were the dealer fees?
  • OK your right so recalulating I paid $21,585 which includes the options and TTT. I believe this is OTD.NO TRADE
  • jack47jack47 Posts: 312
    The best and most meaningful way would be to break out the various parts:

    1. Negotiated price (incl. destination)
    2. Options (if any)
    3. Rebates (if any)
    4. Documentation fees
    5. Tags
    6. Sales Tax
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    I tried the in person approach to buying a car and that did not work. I then got the bright idea of using email and the only benefit is you can simply not respond if the deal is not going your way.

    I had three dealers respond to my request for a quote and it was a waste of time. The written word is subject to so much misinterpretation.

    My deal is simple: No trade in, no finance-strictly a cash buy. It is my observation that OTD is a stacked deck against you. Sales people are so evasive in giving you the numbers you are requesting.

    For example, I asked if the car is in stock and what the build date is. You think I was asking for the secrets to the Atom Bomb. I couldn't get a straight answer.

    My purchase will be an out of state registration but they keep including their state (NY) sales tax and inspection fee in the OTD price.

    All 3 dealers said they would take care of the documentation (TTL) but when pressed all I will get as far as documents is the in-transit certificate for me to drive the car to Vermont for registration.

    I'm learning. If you deal with OTD, there is no way you can compare prices. As we all know, dealers can be quite creative when it comes to the fees they charge and the gimmicks they use.

    It's my opinion whether you negotiate in person or via email, ask for the price of the car, then line item every dealer fee and you pay the TTL as a separate payment. It's less confusing that way. You have control how the numbers are presented to you. Make it simple.

    I have tried both ways and because it's easy for me to walk, I prefer the in person confrontation.

    I have seen the enemy and it's me.
  • Thanks so much, it looks teriffic. The gray interior is what I'm going to go for as well. I was worried that the black dash kit would uglify the interior, but it seems to blend just fine.
  • My story is the complete opposite of yours.

    My deal was the exact same thing (during the last week of Oct). Cash purchase, no trade in. I emailed 10 dealers that I was willing to drive to, asking for an out the door price inclusive of t/t/l, because that would be the check amount I was bringing. I told them the exact car & options I wanted (Sonata GLS w/ power/mats/flaps). A fairly common package for my area if the online inventories can be trusted. I did not care about the color.

    To me, this was the simplest way to go. I could care less if one dealer was charging me some bogus $5,000 shimmy-shine fee, I only needed to know what to make the check out for. How they slice up their fees is irrelevent. Very easy to compare this way.

    I ended up with 3 quotes for the car I specified. Not a good return. A few dealers never responded and the others told me to call (and said things like, "we will beat any price you get"). Not interested.

    Two quotes were under my target price. I picked the lowest quote (which also happened to be at a fairly close dealer) and picked out my color at the lot. I brought my check and bought the car for the amount agreed upon. The sales manager (who handled the email request) had even printed out my email (I also had brought a copy) for the salesman.

    I tried the in person approach with complete failure on another type of car. Those guys could care less if you walk.
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    You don't give any numbers, so there is no way of knowing how well you did.

    Today I went to Plaza Hyundai in Brooklyn NY to negotiate in person. I had received an email from their internet department with a quote of $17855 for the Sonata Unlimited Standard.

    When I got there the manager of internet sales greeted me and assigned me to a salesman. I then understood that this negotiation was going to go nowhere. The salesman knew nothing but was making outlandish claims about the good deal he was going to give me. The original quote of $17855 magically was bumped to $21899. It was a moot point because at the price I wasn't buying. And besides, they didn't have my color (steel gray) in stock. The manager then got into the discussion using the standard cliches which led me to

    Which ever way you go it starts off with the lie of a low ball quote so that they can get their grubby hands on you in their den of iniquity. That is a mistake, you can't win playing in their den.

    Of the two lousy ways to buy a new car, using email is the better way to go. At the rate I'm going, I'll probably reach 90 years of age before I allow dealers to fleece me. I've got 9 years to go to do it my way at my price. Good luck to me!
  • I agree. I have always negotiated via e-mail and have gotten everything in writing before going to a specific dealership. I also equip myself with the dealer invoice, advertising fees and hold-back dollars in advance of any conversations so I know what the car REALLY cost the dealer. By negotiating EVERYTHING in advance, the purchase is quick, enjoyable and without surprises. I purchased my 2007 Limited Ultimate and my Mom's 2006.5 Kia Optima this way too and my Mom said it was the most pleasant experience she has ever had in her 50 years of buying cars.

    I get a new car every 2 years and I have been buying cars this way since 1997 and have never been disappointed.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    "You don't give any numbers, so there is no way of knowing how well you did."

    Exactly, and that is why all figures should be disclosed. Email or Telephone quotes are virtually worthless for any great deal.
    Retail Selling Price
    Invoice Price
    Dealer add-ons
    Trade In Price (If applicable)
    Tax Paid & Tax Rate (If applicable)
    Tag & Title costs
    Miscellaneous State fees
    And to get the most car for your buck, deal down, not up!. Test drive a loaded one. Instead of the Salesman trying to upsell you, you make it clear that the extras are nice, but NOT worth the Money. If they are low on available units, or if this unit has been sitting on the lot for some time, you will be amazed what your Dealer can do for you!
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    I'm not kidding but in the NYC metropolitan area I get the impression that the dealers are not interested in selling cars to people who have some knowledge about the car they are buying.

    My experience at the dealer convinces me that they would rather deal with a "lollipop" client than with a sharpie. I was the only one in the showroom, they had ample cars on the floor and in their inventory, and yet they did not try very hard other than play the waiting game of salesman visiting manager.

    I'm thinking of giving up on the Sonata but would it be any different with some other brand of car? I don't think so.

    They are not to enthused if they can't nail you with the four square ploy. If you are buying a car for cash with no trade in, it leaves them little room to massage the numbers.

    The only chance of getting my deal is to wait for the end of the month and hope to find a dealer that needs to meet a bonus quota. This is the concept in the package called THE FAX ATTACK ($35). Instead of emails, you send faxes two-three days before the end of the month.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    No please don't give up!. You would love the Car. With New York City dealers what do you expect?.

    The perfect time to buy a Car is when no one else is in the showroom, or the end of the Month, or if the Dealer sold a whopping 28 Cars for the month, including mine. That was in February, and I was going to cancel my sale because they couldn't produce the Car that was getting "worked on" at the body shop. So my loaded LX cost me $9200 & one junky 05 Elantra. While the Car had a MSRP of $25K, I got it for $18K, with $700 Tax paid. They gave me $13.8K on a trade that was worth $9.5K at the most. The Elantra didn't even cost $13.8K new. I also received $3K in rebates, although HMFC kicked out. They did want an extra thousand back, and my Salesman and his floor manager were not working there 3 days later after a total management change. So they needed that Sale for reasons unimportant to me, and I just said NO to the extra Grand. And by the way, the Sale was supposed to be for a loaded V6 GLS. When they couldn't find it, I said I'll take that loaded LX or just give me my Elantra back right now!. But please know, the original V6 GLS & price is what I signed for. :shades:
  • dudenjdudenj Posts: 14
    This is what happened to me, i had called a few dealerships on the 30th in NJ, one of them returned my call on the 31st and told me that he was willing to sell me the car for 22,200 out of the door if i were to buy it that same day as he had to meet his numbers.

    I went to the dealer, he then tells me that he is selling the car to me at $2000 + below invoice, and he wanted me to pay a couple of hundred more, when i asked him dont you want to do this sale and how he would meet the numbers, he said he just had to sell 2 to meet his numbers and he would cheat. I walked out.

    I always wonder, are there so many people out there who are buying the car at a higher price that these dealers in NY and NJ really dont want to sell to people who are aware and knowledgeable about the market ?
  • GLS for $15000, stock # in newspaper, one car only. salesman told me that the dealer had to sale it at that price per advertisment, and it is not a demo or high mileage car.

    anything could be wrong? the car had dents during transportation?

    this is from a volumn dealer.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    More likely it's as the salesman said, a "one only" car to drive traffic into the store. But some lucky person will get a GLS for $15,000.

    Hint: if you go for it, take your cell phone along and call them from your car when you drive up. Talk with them as you are walking into the store and confirm the car is for sale. That way they can't play "bait and switch" on you. Also, if the car is sold when you get there, tell them you'll gladly buy another GLS at the same price TODAY (if you are really serious), and they might sell it to you for that--it happens.
  • sligg, any luck yet?

    For an 07 Limited Standard, I got an email offer of 19576 OTD (plus TTL) from a dealer here in the South. I'm not really trusting that number since it sounds pretty good. I'm assuming he misread my email when I said BEFORE the 1500 rebate...

    In the beginning of my research, before I discovered the power of the internet, another dealer offered 21600 before the rebate and fees.

    My problem so far with the email hunt has been the incessant calls from the dealers because I don't pick up (scared of em). So then they call me just to tell me they sent an email...

    I'm seeing if the nice dealer will match the cheaper price when I return my 24 hour test drive car tomorrow (it has wind noise above 60, but I still like it so far)and we'll see what happens.
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    No luck yet. I stopped looking. I'll start again the last 5 days of the month. If a dealer needs to make a sale to meet a quota, then you may have a chance to get a reasonable deal.

    And most importantly, before you make your pitch, you have to make sure they have the car you want in their inventory. Don't fall for the line that they will get the car from another dealer. This requires a deposit which effectively takes you out of the market and control of the deal is now in their hands.

    It's all very discouraging. Well, there is always Cars Direct-at least there's no haggling.
  • mcayne - is the price of $19,576 OTD or Plus TTT? It cannot be both.

    If the price is $19,576 OTD, the price is EXCELLENT :)

    If the $19,576 has taxes, title and tags added to it for around $21,100 on the road...the price could be much better :(
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    Remember mcayne just recently discovered "the power of the Internet". Now the emails and home phone calls won't stop!. :cry:

    Have you ever seen the unreadable fine print in Newspaper Auto ad's. If small type could be transmitted by Computer, Car Dealers would do so. In the mean time we must assume his price does not include State Tax, Title, Tag, License, Dealer Prep fees, Doc fees, Dealer Aftermarket Sticker "Sport Package" items like Pin Stripes, Scotch Guard, Door protectors, & Gloss treatment which can add up to $1500. That is why prices posted here are so ambigious. The true posted price should be what you paid for the Car in its entirety, excluding any DIO & Finance charges.

  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    Aside from being a Heavy Metal Rock Band...


    Stands for Dealer Installed Options :shades:
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    Sonata Limited Standard

    Cars Direct Quote: $19802

    Comments please?

    This is better than any price I got in NYC and Long Island.

    The only question I have is the destination fee of $650.

    This fee is $600 on the Monroney sticker.

    Does Cars Direct play the same dealer games?
  • Sligg, all I can say is that I bought a 2007 Limited with the Ultimate package, carpeted floor mats and mud guards for $20,770 including destination. $650 sounds right for the destination charge. The Ultimate package has a dealer invoice of around $1500 so, to me, the price still sounds over $500 high but may be a good price in NY. I am located in PA near Philly.
  • cableguy06, did you get a rebate?
  • Mcayne - yes I did. On the V6 they were running $1500 which is what I think it is still today. MSRP on my car was $25,600 plus the mats and mudguards.

    If you are unfamiliar with how to get dealer costs, if you tell me what you are looking at, I will be more than happy to help you with your research.

    Every dealer also has on their invoices "hold-back" fees and "advertising" fees. Hold-back can be up to 3% of the vehicle cost and advertising can range from $400 - $800.

    I also negotiated each of these OUT of my deal as well. You can see them in VERY SMALL print on the bottom of the invoice which your dealer should have no problems showing to you if they wish to be upfront.

    I never buy a car without first asking to see THEIR invoice so I can see all of my options regarding keeping more money in my pocket and not theirs.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    Rebate information can always be found at

    The main reason I did so well on my purchase is I collected $3000 in rebates. Is seems $2000 ($1500 plus $500 Loyal Owner) is all you will see on the "Unlimited Limited", as there are no limits to the amount produced.

    As far as "hold-back" fees and "advertising" fees. You can ask to see any invoice, however they print their own, unlike the Federal sticker. And advertising is a legit cost, although inflated. Holdback & Manufacturer Incentives of $1K or more is not for us too?.

    I drove my LX for two weeks before I needed to finalize the Deal.(Known as Spot Delivery). I knew I would be asked for an extra $1000 as the financing kicked. We agreed to $500 on the phone, and then I just said NO. They could have accepted a used Car back, which then can be sold again as new under Federal law. But I had a really good day that day, and dealt with the 'new' Manager. Since I had a signed contract,(which means NOTHING, read the fine print), I somehow walked away with the $24,895 loaded LX for under $18K. And due to the trade (which was a BIG factor in my deal) I only paid $700 in Tax instead of $1500!.
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    What dealer in PA and will they give an email quote?

    2007 Sonata Limited Standard

    Were there any dealer fees, doc fees, administrative fees, etc.
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    Did you buy the 2006 LX or the 2007 Unlimited Ultimate?

    How did you get $3000 in rebates?
  • sliggsligg Posts: 109
    2007 Sonata Limited Standard

    It's like asking someone how much do they have in their wallet. Knowing all these numbers, so what: They give you a quote, you counteroffer with your price which includes all the numbers you mention. The salesman looks at you as if you were crazy, the manager laughs and they wish you good luck as you walk out. I have been to 11 dealers (NYC)and offered $18500 (which includes the $1500 rebate)and I didn't get a nod, not even a rebuttal. The negotiation died on the spot.

    Ha! The magic of numbers.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    "Did you buy the 2006 LX or the 2007 Unlimited Ultimate?. Ha! The magic of numbers".

    The Ultimate magic # is your Credit score. I didn't even have a Job, yet drove off with the new Sonata :shades: . While I have the 2006 LX, for 2007 there are only 3 Models available in North America.:confuse:


    My 235 HP LX is now known as the Limited with only 234 HP. :cry:

    Rebates were as follows:

    $1000 V6 Model
    $1000 Hyundai Financing
    $1000 Loyal Owner
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