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I'm certainly no expert though, just passing on my anecdotal experience, and perhaps someone can make a good argument why to buy before Saturday.
Care to explain how that happened?
"Dealers sure are a work of art. How can you play with them at their game and on their premises and expect to win?"
You don't play on their premises at all. If you do, they have the advantage. Deal through the internet and avoid the sales pressure and hassles. I go to the dealers for test drives, but I won't play their games in the showroom.
Good point. One should know what he is willing to pay before entering the lion's den. Local Salesman in Bridgport, CT thought he had a "mark" because I was referred by someone he leased a car to. This was early April, before the '06 was available. I was going to buy that day. Sticker was $19,594. Salesman said there was only $1150 mark-up (after the $500 adv fee) and he would knock off $500 in addition to the (at the time) $1500 rebate. So he was offering $19,594 less $500 discount, less $1500 rebate, plus $398.50 dealer conveyance fee for a price of $17992.50 before TTL. It took at least a half hour to get a price from him, with all the qualifying stuff he was trying to do (after I told him my credit score of 766 and that I would be putting $7 to 7.5 thou down).
He wouldn't budge giving the line of crap about how limited the GLS SV was, blah blah. Told him I'd pay no more than $17K plus TTL and that I thought he was $1 to 1.5K too high. After wasting 1.5 hours, I walked and said I'd get back to him. 3 days later he called me & I didn't take his call. He called the next day, again I didn't take the call. Fifth day (Sunday) he called and left a voice mail saying they just got a new load of GLS SV in just about every color. Meanwhile, on Friday, my father in Naples, FL contacted O'Brien Hyundai, told them what I wanted and that they'd have a clean deal with no Barbara Streisand if the deal was fair. Monday morning, just before I was going to call Bridgeport guy, Naples guy faxed me an offer & I jumped on it. O'Brien's price was $16705 including $479.50 dealer conveyance before TTL. OTD was $17826.
Bottom line, Edmund's TMV and CarsDirect gave me an idea of approximately how much I should pay. Do your research through the internet or other sources and tell them how much you will pay. Don't let the salesman tell you how much you will pay AND don't get sucked into the "it's only $10 a month more" scheme for 60 months.
It did help that my brother-in-law knew some "good" people.
I'm really turned off buying a new car, it's a lousy experience and it would be no different with any other make. I'm going to wait another year when Camry and Accord release their 2007 new design. By then Hyundai will fix all the flaws currently wrong with the 2006 Sonata and the competition should heat up.
Even with the advent of the internet, the car industry is still a snake pit.
That probably is still true, but from my car purchase experience I think it's at least a mitigated snake pit. We tried both in person negotiations and internet/phone last year. The in-person experience was HORRIBLE and the internet/phone negotiations led to a purchase with no stress at all. I don't expect they're all like that, but the difference was so stark that I can't imagine the in-person ever being better than remote negotiations. I won't ever set foot in a dealership again until I have a price established via email/phone first.
kirstie_h
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OTD: $17,900 after $2000 incentives
How's the deal?
I have visited 11 Hyundai dealers and they are all the same. They are like vampires-waiting to suck your blood. Is there one dealer you know of that will treat you like a customer and not a patsy to be plucked, fleeced, ripped-off, etc...etc!
Is there any dealer that doesn't play the 4-square game? Part of the 4-square is the finance office which has to be the biggest con of all. Make sure your underware is firmly secure to your body because they will take these also.
This process is only as difficult as you make it. Sending out blast faxes to 30 dealers and going in on the defensive is going to make this a very unenjoyable experience for you.
Remember that a dealership is open to make profit. It is not a bad thing in and of itself. That said today is the last day of the month. Everybody could probably use that one more sale.
I did pick-up the car already. Is there a way of resigning from lo jack and "gas and go" in this case?
I'd appreciate your enlightening me, as I really do not know too much in that area..
Thank you.
But found a fair place Global Auto Mall in North Plainfield that gave me a fair deal with a little bit of drama but I got what I wanted for the price I wanted.
Do your homework and walk when you are being treated badly.
What is the process of switching from financing to leasing if I still owe on this car? How do the interest rates vary--are they significantly lower when leasing than financing? I've asked dealers this question but can never get a straight-forward answer. If anyone can help with this, it would be very helpful.
And also, if anyone has any idea on how to get rid of my atrocious vehicle please let me know.
Given you owe on it and no sane person wants a second-hand Neon, about your only option is to drive it off a cliff. (Don't forget to wear a parachute - you might change your mind.) Kidding aside, you're gonna take a bath selling or trading that car. But, the longer you wait, the worse it'll be. Also, do you owe more on your Neon than it's worth? If so, guess who's gonna have to make up the difference one way or another. What this means in simple terms is if you find a dealer willing to take your Neon in trade and buy down your remaining loan, that amount (and maybe more for administrative costs) will be tacked on to your replacement car's lease.
Thanks again.
On the other hand, I have been told by various dealers that the interest rates for leasing is significantly lower than financing, so maybe I still have that to look forward to.
Once it goes over the curb, the car is yours..
regards,
kyfdx
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There is no siggle word about cancellation in the contract, though..
Rick
Hyundai 6 years service "Gas and Go" $ 1,000 (has a small list of minor excluded items and gives VIP card with discounts);
Satelite Lojack $ 1,295;
5 years Vehicle Theft Replacement policy $ 2,295 (covers up to $ 5,000 of the difference between the car value and a book value payable by the insurance - couldn't cancel that one).
Including other fees of 220.50 and tax 2,159.50 it comes to the total of $ 26,165.
Dealer financing rate 5.69; will refinance with my bank to 4% and pay it fast.
That is my first experience with car dealers; I'll be better prepared next time. However, I've learned today, how tricky the warranties are and that the most important items are covered for 1 year only and after 3 years that list is reduced much further.. That is why I kept "gas and Go" service, but got it $ 1,000 cheapper this time.
You can get GAP insurance from your car insurance company for cheap and that will cover collision and other causes of loss in addition to theft.
The longer you own the car & make payments, the lower the GAP will be between ACV and the amount owed. Depending on the % you finance and additional prinipal payments you make, the GAP may not exist for very long.
I'm not familiar with "gas & go" but $1K sounds like an expensive dealer add-on. $1300 for lojack also seems like the dealer is taking you for a ride. If your car is stolen and the bad guys smash it up, you will have paid $1300 to find the smashed car plus $2300 to cover any GAP that may exist. That's $3900!
Is there a history of cars being stolen in your locality? Looks to me like the dealership is selling you a bill of goods. If you already bought the car, you may be able to cancel the extra junk the dealer loaded you with.
I realized after the fact that I don't want that 5-year anti-theft policy, but I was told, that it cannot be cancelled and that there are engravings on my windows done after the deal was signed. So, I am aware now (to late unfortunately) that I was maneuvered into spending money on something that is good for the dealer and not really for me. Gas and Go for 6 years covers (except brakes and small items) all the major parts, including those covered only for 1 year under the normal warranty. Initially it was 2 K, reduced to 1 K when I wanted to cancel. I was told, that it is specifically important for all the electronic equippment, including the computer, that is not covered for that long under the regular warranty.
About lo jack he said, that there are different types and that the one I have installed is satelite and more expensive. I didn't know about lo jack before and liked the idea, so I paid the price for lack of knowledge and trust...
I could still walk-out yesterday, but going there back and forth and all that emotional exhaustion - I finally gave up and have to pay for that comfort...
I really didn't know that there are such sharks out there; didn't buy any car from the dealer yet.
Thanks again.
I'm an independent insurance agent and you wouldn't believe some of the BS I've heard from clients, told them by a dealer, when the client is buying a car. In the future, if a dealership tells you that X or Y will do certain good things for your insurance premium, check with your agent before signing for the (sometimes) junk they are trying to sell you.
It's odd how upset some people get about a $100 increase in the cost of their insurance with an agent they have been doing business with for a long time (agents don't set the premium and can't negotiate the way car dealers do) and think nothing of paying big bucks for dealer add-on that are, at best, of questionable value. Some people even get mad at their agent because they do not get an insurance discount that the dealer "promised" them. They've dealt with an agent for years and then go buy a car, usually from someone they just met, and then get mad at the agent for not being able to get a dealer promised insurance discount. Something's not right with that picture.
Thanks.
About insurance: for 10 years I was with Country Wide, had only one small and no-fault accident and good account standing.The day I purchased the car I called my broker - no response (office closed, as I found out later). I then called the main office and nobody there wanted to help me with an insurance for the new car.
They kept sending me back to the broker and when I finally got someone to listen, they faxed me the form, I sent it back and that was it. Didn't pick-up the phone anymore. So, I could not pick-up the car, went home and got on-line to purchase ANY insurance.. Unbelievable, but true ! I got a policy for 6 months from E-surance (I find it very expensive - even for NY) and will shop for another policy once I'll get a registration and a title. All together that purchase wasn't a nice experience, but I finally have my car and found this Forum, where I see people, who are willing to take their time to give advice and/or share their experience. That is valuable!
Thank you.
Don't the headlights turn off by themselves when you shut off the engine? I'm surprised if they don't, as Hyundai has had that feature on even their less-expensive cars for years.
Hope you enjoy your Sonata for many years!
I'm interested in buying the LX V6 with option 2 in about a month. I received a quote of 19,565 plus tax, dest., tags and MV.
I also received a quote from another dealer for an LX demo with 3,500 miles for 19,995 plus tax, dest., tags and MV.
I do not have good credit as I have never had a credit card or credit history.
Are these good prices or can I do better? What should I avoid before signing the dotted line? I'm being very cautious as this is my first car purchase.
Thanks for your help.
I like this car even more now!
Congratulations on your new Sonata. When you get a chance, stop by the Sonata Owners Club and share your experiences with other owners.
kirstie_h
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Thanks for the information. We are looking to buy the same 2006 Sonata LX with sunroof/CD changer package. We are not sure if we will go with the Deepwater Blue or the Steel Gray. Which rebates did you get? How much did you pay for TTL? Does anybody know if cars are usually cheaper or more expensive in New York vs. down South (Texas)?
I'm going to guess the $1,000 Hyundai Owner Loyalty rebate plus the $1,000 HMFC financing rebate.
Additionally there is a $500 general rebate . . . so it could even be $2,500 off if you currently own a Hyundai.
Imagine, I was checking on Edmunds the prices and did some car comparisons, but at that time I didn't notice The Forum. If I could read some posts before my purchase, I'd know what I needed to... Well, now I try not to think anymore about "add ons" and enjoy my car. The other day I tried the option "automatic lights turn-on". It was at the dawn, but lights didn't light. Did you try it?
Thank you.
As close as I can tell you payed $425 over invoice.
There is no such thing as advertising fees. But if the dealer tells you that is what the $425 is for, you feel better. Advertising fees are a cost of doing business, it comes out of the dealers gross profit. It does not get passed along to the buyer.
The $425 you paid goes to the salesman & sales manager. Fleet sales will usually be cheaper, say $150~$250 over invoice.
Target price for the Sonata is invoice - rebates.