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Good luck.
I went on ZAG.com to the "Drive your Dream Car" link and I got a quote for $26,736 for 2011 Sonata Limited with Navi + CARGO NET (CN) + CARPETED FLOOR MATS (CF) + SUNROOF WIND DEFLECTOR (WD)
I have never used ZAG.com before, I plan to buy this sonata only If I get the 24,813 or something in the neighborhood. Do I need to some member of some company to use ZAG.com.
Please guide friends. I'm from TX houston.
The prices are different in every state.. In nj, its 24,183 for the same car through the zag program...
You can always drives to a different state to purchase it for a cheaper price. All up to you.
By the way, I did not put any money down. Only $327 first month OTD.
23500.... OTD 24700.
I used zag.com
I was just shopping around of the 2011 Sonata SE with Nav. I was being offered it for $ 25,826 (Out the door price) in Illinois. Anyone get it for anything less in the IL area?
That'd be helpful, thanks!
Transfer title - $148
Taxes (Dupage county) - $2107
Total (Out the Door Price) - $ 25826
Thanks for all your inputs
I see quoted here the MF and resid for a 3 yr / 15 k lease - what if I want a shorter or longer term, and fewer miles? Specifically, I'd like to know the exact #s for lease tlengths between 24-48 months, and 10,12.5, or 15 k miles - if it matters, Chicago area
Thanks, D
The 2.0 shocked me off the line, Had to take a left out of dealership across threee lanes of traffic into a turn lane...I said holy......when I took off. The acceleration is fantastic.
Unfortunately, I was driving during rush hour, so I did not take it onto the freeway. Plan on doing so soon. However, it seems there is only one dealership in the bay area that has any of these vehicles at the present time.
389 processing fee
672.15 VA tax
44.81 Dealer license tax
63.00 ?
---------------
23,184.96 Total
-500.00 current Hyundai owner (2001 elantra - 171K miles and still strong) rebate
---------------
22,684.96 OTD
usaa (zag.com) pricing
How did we do?
Fairfax Hyundai - Fairfax VA
I'm buying my first car.
I received this deal from one of the dealer in Tampa. The prices as follows:
Vehicle: 2011 Sonata 2.4 Limited + Nav + Optional Accessories = $24,866 (includes destination fee and regional add fee)
Tax: 7%
New Tag: ?
Doc fee: $599
Finally the dealer gave me the OTD price of $27,300
Is it really a better price?
Anyway is it good price? Thanks for your reply.
van
Total car price: 2011 Sonata Limited with Nav and all optional accessories: $23,902
Total car price with All fees: $26,600
I think, I can negotiate to $26k. But due to lack of patience, I took the vehicle with $26,600
I can sure, next buyer may ask the dealer for $26k
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
RUN to the dealer & grab that deal; it will be a long time before you see a Ltd. Turbo sell for $3717 off MSRP.
I have an 09 and am thinking about getting a 2011, but the prices I'm reading about on here are way higher than what I paid. I paid $19,200 for an SE V6 with the option package. I think the MSRP was around 25-26k. Now it looks like everyone is paying much closer to MSRP?
Mine was a demo car with 4k miles on it, I'm sure thats part of why I got such a good deal. I was hoping to pay close to that for an 2011 Turbo but it looks like that will never happen. My model (SE V6) is the higher output engine so I just assumed the higher output engine model of the 2011 would cost around the same, but it looks like I'm looking at around $5-6k more, right?
Yes. The new design is proving to be much more popular than the prior generation, leading to lesser discounts and rebates. And of course, a demo with 4K miles will cost less than a new car with 3 miles on it.
Why trade a 2-year-old car? Is it worn out already? Personally, I really liked the 2009 SE, with the 5-spoke wheels.
Agreed, I like the wheels. But I'm not super impressed with the suspension, or the drivetrain lag in my '09. The I4 has much better throttle response. Driving the V6 is kind of like driving a rubber band car. You push the gas and nothing happens, then half a second later it snaps forward. Its very hard to drive the car aggressively without spinning the tires.
I've ridden in a 2011 a few times, the suspension is much improved, and I'm hoping the throttle response is also. But it sounds like its going to cost me about 6 grand more than I paid for my '09, so I will probably end up keeping it.
Can any know what is the invoice price of 2011 Sonata limited wt Nav ??
MSRP 29865
Avg paid 28870
INVOICE 27897
Dealer cost 27023
Best: 26897 (164 miles from Dayton)
truecar dot com
Prepare to pay more, wait, or walk for the highly desirable TURBO model!
Power (esp. with I4 vs. I4)
Fuel economy
Warranty
Standard features e.g. Bluetooth
if yes any tip and tricks ??
(that's because that is how much Zag charges the selling Zag dealer for the Zag lead.)
Same with the other lead-generating sites, who "pretend" to give you a big price advantage when you take the "referral" to the dealers that are participating in their program.
I have mentioned this numerous times on these forums: "Save an additional $300 and DON'T buy your vehicle through one of these lead-generating services." At least not within 3 months of getting the referral.
Or use a fake name/address when getting your Zag referral; and be sure to use this bargaining power with the dealer when getting down to nitty-gritty pricing. i.e. that you have NOT used Zag or Costco or Sams or TrueCar or Yahoo or one of the many lead-generating sites out there that'll add $300 to their costs. Hyundai's own site is okay to use, to get any info about the model you want. Also Consumer Reports' own pricing service, which YOU pay for and not the dealer (as is the case with Zag et al) is probably the best fifteen bucks you'll ever spend in your car-buying search: no hidden agenda or motives, no b.s.; just the up-to-date facts about what the car really costs the dealer.
I am not associated with CR nor am I a shill for them; just an experienced new-car buyer with close friends in the industry.
It is just amazing to me when I read these forums, how much money customers leave on the table yet walk away thinking they got the deal of a lifetime. Well .... good for them, I guess: a happy owner is ultimately the goal, eh? . _ And good for the car dealers too, who need some healthy margins (profit) after these last few years of drought.
Most important: enjoy your car once you drive it off the lot, and don't continue to price-search afterwards: you'll just diminish the enjoyment when you learn how many thousands you overpaid.
I'm currently considering buying a 2011 Sonata (GLS w/PEP2) and assuming I sign up for CR and I get the dealer cost for the vehicle and all the options I want, how close should I shoot for negotiating with the dealer to the cost I find on CR? (i.e. within 5% of cost? 10% of cost? etc.)
From what I've read, it seems like 20,000-21,000 seems to be the going rate for OTD price on my model and options, but I don't want to not ask and run the risk of overpaying. First time new car buyer here and would be very grateful for any insight you can provide along these lines.
And various dealers play this against you, sensing a customer is afraid to stick to a certain price or customer's reluctance to make an "insulting" offer.
If you get the custom quote from CR, they give you help with how to use it, too.
Really, if you're spending over twenty grand, why not spend a few bucks for a tool that will help you get the best possible price?
Remember, there's NEVER any reason to "feel sorry for" the salesperson or the dealer: they have ALL of the factors in their favor from the start, and they'll do just fine, even if you manage to buy the car at absolute, actual, true dealer cost. and don't forget that the salesman of record will get an extra nice little spiff directly from Hyundai if you answer Hyundai's post-sale questionaire about the salesman with 100% satisfaction scores. So even if he/she doesn't make a single dime of commission from your transaction, they'll STILL do fine with the bonus that comes directly from Hyundai.
.
Just don't be afraid of hearing "Don't be ridiculous" or "No possible way" or "we'll have other customers willing to pay more." Remember, these people are SKILLED at what they do and experts in getting YOU to pay the highest possible price. Also remember this is a comodity that's availble at dozens of retailers within a few hours' drive; and all it takes is one.