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Comments
We have a place in my city we call "dead man's curve". The traffic comes around the corner at about 50-60MPH, and you can't see them until the last second. The procedure there is - look left, look right, look left, pucker up, punch it and pray!
Blind intersections are always dangerous. I wouldn't be surprised if that shopping center has had many accidents at that street. Often it is shrubbery that blocks drivers' views.
What is the posted speed limit for the other driver? At 40mph he/she would not leave skid marks that long. Is there a sign on that side of the street warning drivers to watch for cars entering the street? It will probably be a "no fault" accident if there isn't a sign.
fowler3
The lawyer will sue the other guy for damages to your car. and if your lawyer wins, he might take a % of the damage claim to cover his fees and expenses. The good thing is that at least your deductible will be recovered.
Also, I find that the front passenger is far more comfortable than the drivers seat, which is exactly opposite of the protege.
thoughts...thoughts...
is there one?
that is the only diff i see.
but sitting comfort is more on the passenger side.
I dunno why.
I will investigate further and find out.
But, primarily, there's no way I'd call the passenger seat *more* uncomfortable, if I'm just sitting in it or the driver' seat. The lumbar support probably makes the driver's seat a tad comfier. Now, its a different thing if your seating/driving position make you uncomfy in the driving position you assume - but speaking for myself, I'm comfier (must come from being happier) while driving. And yes, I have already sat for extended periods in the passenger (and rear) seat while someone else drove my car. (Interesting story - an old college friend got so carried away, he was pulled over and nearly got a speeding ticket!)
ps: My butt NEVER inhales.
Mark.
but do u guys know anything about this
>>> A sunglasses holder on the left side of the steering wheel was convenient, <<<
it is mentioned in the full test drive by Edmunds.
If the other driver's car is fairly new it would have one. Might need a search warrent to see it.
fowler3
Does anyone know if the tabs that hold the brake light cover down are part of the brake light cover? I need to know if I need to replace the whole cover. I don't want the tint place to do it, so I am going to get them a part # and have them order it and I'll put it in.
The thing that bugs me most is that whoever did it, knows that they did it. They tried to glue the tab back on with a glue gun, hoping I wouldn't notice. IMO, if they break a piece, they should tell me about it and replace it and not try to cover it up, especially on a brand new car. I am about as picky as you can get when it comes to cars so they tried to pull something on the wrong guy. Morons!
newcar31, keep in mind that the part for your Protege probably needed to be shipped from Japan so it would typically take a little longer than just pulling one from a warehouse a couple hundred miles away.
I have no idea where the 3rd brake light housing for the Mazda6 comes from but I'm betting that dealers don't stock them yet and it's gonna take a while to get it. I don't think the plastic piece from the Protege came from Japan, I think it came from another solar system because the 4 months that it took to get the part seemed like 4 light years.
I tried this in another sequence:
lifted the foot off the gas pedal and then pressed the clutch, but did not like the car slowing down momentarily only to speed up again after shifting.
any advice?
person who enters the order: $5?
computer space to store the history of that order: $5?
the shipping materials: $5?
the warehouse space: $5?
the person going to the bank to cash the check from the dealer: $5?
and there's still some left over. Someone is overpaid.
That must explain why Proteges and other Mazdas are so out of this world
Right now Mazda has a monopoly on most of the replacement parts.
enjoying the auto/manual transmission.... yeah, the 4-cylinder isn't quite as powerful as i'd like, but that's OK.
paid $100 over invoice and then got the $1500 rebate, a pretty good amt. for my trade-in, and nice 2.29% financing for 60 months.
the red color is continuing to grow on me, and everything from Radiohead to Dave Matthews to Mahler sounds AWESOME in my new Mazda6!
have fun over the weekend.
Ahh but that's Mazda's (or anyone else's) cost and profit on it. Don't forget Mazda most likely doesn't make that part - they buy it from an injection moulder who built a factory near Flat Rock who has the same overhead issues and Mazda sold it to your dealer who has the same overhead issues. So essentially, the consumer may pay anywhere from 21-30 times actually cost using my example.
Also, if you can find someone to work for my company for $5, let me know!! :-)
I don't know how old you are or what you do for work so I don't know your experiences, but I once read that the average cost of processing and shipping a single order in the wholesale trade is in the area of $75.
Rich
My 6i AT feels smoother now too. I have no trouble merging onto hwy traffic, the computer keeps it around 4-5k RPM which is the sweet spot on the torque curve. The beauty is, the engine never sounds like it's struggling. All this while getting about 29mpg (3 fill-ups so far).
My perm. plates hadn't come in after 6 weeks, and I started pinging the dealer. They didn't know why they were delayed. Finally, 1 day before temps expire, they tell me the delay was caused by MD MVA requiring the car to be inspected. MD does not require new car inspections. What had happened was, the car had been BOUGHT and titled previously, but the person was then denied credit and had to return the (my) car, making it effectively a used car. Needless to say, I was not very happy as I had been denied this info. during the negotiation for the car. Happily, the GM of the dealership agreed that this was wrong and provided me with 3 years of free oil changes and tire rotations, free 30K sched. maint. and other things. I'm satisfied.
if not, then try and talk again.
You have no idea how long you will keep the car, especially considering it was used. So you may never actually use the "perks". You have no idea the true value of those perks and IF the car is actually serviced at those times. If they lied once they probably will lie again. Get cash back! A bird in the hand is better than perks in the bush. If he refuses talk to a lawyer. In fact, I would talk to a lawyer first, it's usually free, and then approach the dealer. The lawyer will tell you what you should demand.
If you think your car is serviced every time you take it in, some dealers don't service them. I bought a used VW Beetle from a VW dealer, took it in for service. Having heard from others to be careful, I wrote down the ODO reading and also marked the left rear tire with chalk, putting a mark on the tire and the ground. At the end of the day when I went to pick it up the ODO was the same, the chalk marks matched and the bill was $150.00! They refused to give me the keys unless I paid it. I threatened to charge them with fraud, in front of 10 other customers waiting in line, and they handed over the keys. The same thing happened with a Honda dealer years later.
fowler3
Have someone call the service department and ask how much they charge for oil changes and the 30K mile check.
Then come online and check the nada.com price for a used Mazda6 with 300 miles on it, also check Edmunds' used car values and kbb.com's used values.
Then compare those figures to what you paid. If the difference is larger between a used 6 and what you paid for the car (sold as new) compared to the cost of the perks, you will know how much you are owed.
If the perks to forget it are worth only $200 and the difference in price is $2000, you have a case.
The figures are what a lawyer will need to know.
Never haggle with a thief over how much he is going to refund from the money he has stolen from you.
fowler3