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Mazda6 Sedan



  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    "But I never felt safer as I did with my 4WD. The 4wd will brake all wheels at once and 2 feet of snow never slowed me down. "

    4WD doesn't help you fact, the added weight of the 4WD system will increase your stopping distances on ice. 4WD is great for helping you to get going though.

    As far as I know, when I press on the brake pedal, all four brakes are being applied.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    MT is better on snow and ice (I'm a WI native and former CO resident).
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    protoge_fan - the 4WD used on Jeeps, the Quadradrive works in reverse as the car is slowing down. When you take your foot off the gas any wheel slippage is detected and traction is instantly sent to the wheels that are not slipping. Meaning the engine braking is always in effect as long as one wheel has traction.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Ohhh..I see! Never heard of
  • 3 questions: How does manual on sport AT work, and how is the quality of the Sport AT on the 6s? Also, I know its hard to know because of its recent release, but overall how are the longevity and resale of Mazdas? Thanks
  • I think that once it is in manual mode, you push forward to downshift/go into lower gear, and pull backward to upshift. I heard it doesn't automatically upshift for you so you can have better control up to redline. It would be more intuitive if you pulled back for downshifts IMO.
  • I know this sounds completely idiotic but how does the manual work without a clutch (does it just overide the AT so that you control upshifts/downshifts)?
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    ... the 'SportMatic' or 'Manumatic' modes in the Auto Tranny.

    It just lets you control which gear the engine will run in. A nice thing about the Sport Auto in the 6 (4 speed Ford/Mazda unit in the I and 5 speed JatCo in the S) is that it WILL hold a gear upto redline and bounce you fof the limiter. So it won't dumb things down like the Lexuses or Acuras of the world by shifting intot he next gear for you.

    Ideally, of course, get the Manual - which DOES have a real clutch. Clutchless manuals are only available one xotic (expensive!) cars :)
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    See, where we live, snow is a factor.

    I just want a car that nobody has and that is safe.

    Hmm, how about a Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS? Basically all the goodness of the WRX with a torquey and well behaved 2.5-H4 engine instead of the WRX's insane 2.0-H4T. They are pretty rare, excellent in snow with the AWD, and the handling is great. Other than the missing hood scoop, they look nearly identical to the WRX.

    Disclaimer: the RS is not in the same class as the Mazda6, it's a smaller car and a bit less refined. But I guarantee it will keep a smile on your face just like the 6, only it might be a bit more mischeivious of a smile....

    I would NOT recommend a WRX for a teenager, it's just too powerful and can get you in a lot of trouble fast. The RS is like the WRX's calmer sibling.

  • seafseaf Posts: 339
    is basically an automatic transmission where you can override the shift points. Not the same internals as a manual.
  • Bridgestone Blizzaks - best by far. Used them for years. And, just because you have 17" tires does not mean you have to go back with same. In the US - Discount tire or Tire Rack can help you with a proper changeover size - but a proper 15" will work if you get the right load range a close to tire height.
    Down side - if it gets above 50 degrees, or almost always dry pavement - you will wear faster.
    The first 50% of this tire is a soft compound great for ICE!!! The tread after that is better than an all season - but you do lose the ice traction after that. Depending on your driving habits - I generally can get two winters out of a set - I just leave them on after March of the second year and finish wearing them out.
    I used them on a Ford Ranger the first time - 2wd, and went places the 4wds were stuck in. Two foot of snow and ice were just regular pavement.
    Cannot reccomend a tire more highly.
  • Would I do better just getting an all-season? That's what I've always had on my other cars. The only reason I want "snow tires" (or better tires for the winter, basically) is because the low-profile 17s that came with the sport package might not handle the snow alright.

    I've never had "snow tires" specifically in the past. Always just had all-seasons that I kept on year-round. Would all-seasons cost less? Plus they'd last longer probably. And THEY have a mileage warranty whereas "snow tires" don't.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    You already have all season tires. Why buy another pair for the winter? Why not buy real winter tires if you're going to have two sets of tires?
  • Oh! I didn't know the Michelins were all-season rated. I guess it's the lower profile size that makes them not-so-good for winter driving then? Which is why I'd be going to a 16" rim for the winter/snow tires.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    You could just drive it in the winter with the tires you have now. They are all season, but they won't be very good in the snow and ice, and the low profile won't cushion potholes as well as some 60/16 sized winter tires.

    Like my dearly missed 2001 Protege, your sport package 6 has low profile, high performance, all season tires....but you can't have great high performance traits AND great all season traits in the same tire. So what you get is a compromise. Compared to real, summer high performance tires, your all season high performance tires are step down. Compared to real winter tires, your all season high performance tires are a big step down.
  • aromasaromas Posts: 314
    I know it's better to be safe than sorry in the winter but I don't think I 've ever felt in danger of driving in winter with a FWD car. My 1st FWD car was a 1990 MX6 and when I drove in my 1st snow storm I couldn't believe how easy it was to drive in compared to the RWD cars I had. IMO as long as you drive with caution you will never have to worry. You can have 4WD and the best snow tires around but if you drive in the snow like you do in the summer you're still gonna end up in a ditch. I consistently see people driving the speed limit and tailgating cars in snowy weather and they end up rearending another car and cry foul. Well duuhhh, don't drive like a moron and see what happens. Unfortunately I've been rearended that way twice and the stupidity never ceases to amaze me. In fact I think snow tires and 4WD is a bad idea for alot of drivers because it gives them a false sense of security in the snow. BTW both times I got hit by SUV's.

    Then again if you live in an area where you get major snow accumulation the whole winter it may be a good idea to get snow tires to lessen the chance of being stuck on side streets but that's the only reason I would do it but even in Toronto I've never experienced enough snow to worry about getting stuck. The plows come pretty quickly.

    Makes you wonder how we got thru winter with our old RWD cars back in the good old days without traction control and such. Nowadays it's a breeze. It's not the cars it's the drivers.
  • With the tires on the 6s, is it worth buying snow tires for a Colorado winter. I dont want to pay for them plus pay for switching, etc.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    "In fact I think snow tires and 4WD is a bad idea for alot of drivers because it gives them a false sense of security in the snow."

    Driving like a moron in the snow is not limited to SUV drivers. Friend of mine with a SUV ended up in a ditch because a person driving a Honda cut him off. Rather than hit the car, he drove into a ditch. There was about 6 inches of snow on the ground at the time.
  • aromasaromas Posts: 314
    Oh I know there's alot of boneheads out there but I just seem to notice most speeders in the snow tend to be SUV drivers. The funny thing about my collisions was both idiots said the same thing "I don't know what happened I wasn't speeding". I reminded them that going the speed limit in this weather is speeding. Don't think they understood. Just gives me another reason to hate SUV's besides being the most boring driving experience out there.

    Tim: I assume Colorado winter's are pretty bad(worse than Toronto which is average) so if you are worried about getting stuck then I would but if not I found my 6 to be quite stable in snow. Just promise to drive with caution especially because you're a new driver. I've driven thru 19 Canadian winters and have never lost control of my car in the snow. Sometimes it's unavoidable but don't drive like a psycho and you'll minimize the danger.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    If you have FWD I wouldn't bother getting snow tires. I lived in Colorado Springs for a couple of winters without them. Then again I learned to drive in WI and think driving on ice is fun, so maybe I'm not a good one to listen to. ;)

    Seriously though, your driving skill is much more important than if you have snow tires or not.
  • aromasaromas Posts: 314
    Mazda6s: You shoulda used that smiley face with the wink for,ahem, you know where at least several times.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    Yeah, you got that right.
  • Well, part of the reason I want to get winter tires/rims is also because the alloy rims don't hold up well to salt, etc. over time. I guess with my first-ever brand new car I'm pretty protective of trying to keep it as "new" as possible, for as long as possible. So between our wonderful "lake effect snow" that is a daily term here in west Michigan along the lakeshore, and the salt used on the roads, and all the morons (not me) driving around like it's summertime, I'd feel better getting snow tires on 16" rims with this car. My old '91 MX-6 has all-seasons on them, and I've never had much of a problem, but being that my sport package ones are low-profile, they probably wouldn't do as good a job for me as my old car's. Plus the whole "pitted alloy" concern over time. Just gotta weed out room in our garage to store a set of tires now.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    probably because the drivetrain is mechanically so much more inefficient, compared to a pair of free rolling wheels?
  • I've had the chance to drive two different cars this week. In both cases, getting back behind the wheel of the M6 was a reminder of how amazing the M6 drives. Man, there are some really DULL cars out there...
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 34,919
    I think the point was having engine braking on all 4 wheels, not just a pair of drive wheels. So, with a stick, you can slow the car by taking your foot off the gas while in gear, and not have to worry about the rear wheels (on a FWD car) "freewheeling".

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • seafseaf Posts: 339
    The difference between the 16" all-season tires and the 17" all-season tires on the M6 is not much, the 17" is about 1 cm wider, so it doesn't "dig" into the snow as much in the winter, but provide better tracion 90% of the year, bumpy ride is a different issue with the 17" tires.

    As for alloys in the winter, just make sure you hose them down with water once every 2 weeks at least and they'll be fine.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    Not faster, more surefooted. Especially the Jeep QuadraDrive, one of the best 4WD full time systems for the money. Can deliver almost 100% torque to any one wheel with traction.
  • I have driven my alloys through each Upstate, NY winter in the 10 years I have been here. I place a coat of Nu-Finish on the wheels in the Spring and Fall. Wash them with a soft brush or sponge at least 1X per week when salt is being used and the temps are above 32 F.

    They will look as good in 4 years as the day you purchased the car.

    The only exception I would make is if you drive a lot of high speed expressway miles with the salt and gravel on the roads. This can have a sandblasting effect that no polymer finish will protect.

    Mark. : )
  • When i check in Edmunds, it only gives me one invoice price of $17,297. I dont know if thats for Automatic or Manual. Another thing since i'm only interested in the sports package, will it be a good idea to just get a BASE model and have the sports package with spoiler installed and the 17inch wheels. Would i be eligible for the $2000 cash back if i do that? Or will i still only get the $1000. I'm buying this car soon so i'm asking the mazda experts ;) Thanks for your help.
  • According to Mazda's website, the 6 does not have any cash back deals right now, just 0% financing for 60 months. This is available only on 2003 models WITHOUT the sport package.
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    on the 6 has just been upgraded to 2500 dollar cash back or you can choose 0% financing from the commercials I have seen. Not sure if thats just for 03 models(non-sport package) though. I don't know about 04 incentives on 6's though.
  • Where is this information? I'm still only seeing $2000 on here (Edmunds), and the Mazda site doesn't even show a rebate. $2500 is making it even more tempting!
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    Carguy is right.

    I saw a commercial advertising it last night during the Dolphins/Skins game. It said $2500 cash back or 0% for 60 months on select 2003 6's. NOT 2004's. Fine print that I didn't bother to read appeared at the bottom.

    Edmunds also shows the $2500 rebate for my region. Only on non-sport models. Maybe it's just not available in yours?
  • It's not available in my region. I called Mazda and the first thing they ask you is your state. It's only $2000 in Louisiana. The same in mississippi; but $2500 in Alabama. Guess the places where it's more have more 2003's left. It's weird, because they still have a bunch around me!
  • Is it possible to Buy a non sports package 2003/2004 non sports package Mazda6 to get the 2000/2500 rebate and then have the sports package installed. Or better yet, is it even worth it?
  • LA and MS are in the Mazda Gulf Reagion, AL in the Southeast Region.

    The "aero kit" of the sport package can be dealer installed. The aero appearance pieces come pre-painted.
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    to dealer install the sport pkg items would well exceed the rebate savings....when we purchase those type of parts from mazda the dealer wholesale cost is often more than MSRP when factory the part prices do not include installation costs at the dealership.
  • ramped1ramped1 Posts: 159
    Posted this a couple of months ago and never got a response. Guess everyone was dialed in on the rust issue by then.
    Anyway, my question to current 6 owners concerns oil changes away from Mazda dealerships. Do the independent shops or Jiffy Lubes handle the oil cannister without any problems? Aside from the rust issue, that is one of the reasons I may not buy a 6. I can't change the oil myself anymore, and I don't have a lot of confidence in local shops doing an oil change effectivfely on anything other than a standard filter.
  • seafseaf Posts: 339
    You can always buy the filter from a mazda dealer and have someone else install it. And hopefully as Future ford models based on the MZ6 come out, the 6i oil filter will be more common.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    If your Mazda6 is the V-6 version, it is based on the Ford Duratec 3.0 block and uses the same size filter. I just checked an internet site and the Fram size for the Mazda6 V-6 is the same as for the Ford Taurus Duratec. Fram number is PH2.

    I use the Motorcraft OEM filter on my Taurus as I have a filter cap wrench that fits the knurling on the end of this filter and is easier to use than a strap type wrench. The filter is a bit tight to access on my Taurus, but relatively easy with the cap wrench. You can buy the Motorcraft filter at many discount parts places for usually less than $4. The Motorcraft filter is FL820S. Any oil change place should have plenty of filters to fit the V-6 Mazda6 as there are a lot of Duratec Tauri out there getting oil changes every day.

    I have no idea what filter is used on the 4 cylinder Mazda6.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    "Aside from the rust issue, that is one of the reasons I may not buy a 6. I can't change the oil myself anymore, and I don't have a lot of confidence in local shops doing an oil change effectivfely on anything other than a standard filter."

    Sounds like you've already made up your mind. I have a 6i and change my own oil. I used to work at oil change joints. Like you, I have no confidence in those places OR the dealership, ESPECIALLY considering that the 6i uses an internal canister filter. That's why I do it myself.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    Well, its not that bad. Autozone and others already have a part number for it in their database. Mazda dealers always have it in stock. Oil change places figure out how to use it - take it to someone you trust (local mechanic preferred over oil change place) and watch/supervise it being done.

    There are MULTITUDES of threads, with diagrams, maps, instructions and photographs on some websites already! I've had it done at my local mechanic's garage once, watching the whole time, as he and I figured it all out together, and done it at a friend's place on ramps once, so far. Not that difficult.

    Of course, I bought my own filter each time, and my own Mobil 1 0W20 Synthetic oil. The mechanic charged me $15 labor only.
  • ramped1ramped1 Posts: 159
    So, am I to understand that the 6s V-6 uses the same filter as the Ford Duratec, so there is no cannister involved? Since I would buy the 6s, that would seem to eliminate the cannister concern. Am I correct?
  • That is correct. The V6 has a regular oil filter.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    The FL820S is what I use on our Escape. It's pretty big making it easy to screw on and off too.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    ... for the V6 filter, get the K&N version which has a small bolt on the bottom, making it easier to turn and remove/install.

    Some people have had a tough time taking the first filter off for the first change - they stabbed it with scredrivers, chopsticks etc to get better leverage!!!

    The 6i filter cartridge is also on VERY tight, so I had mine done at a shop the first time. I since found a tool at the Mazda dealership parts dept. that opens the filter easily.
  • seafseaf Posts: 339
    I'm always suspicious of "special tool requirements".
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The 4 cyl filter tool is probably different and "special" compared to what you could buy at pep boys.

    I haven't seen one, but I'm guessing that it's some kind of cap that fits over the fitler canister cover just right. The canister cover is plastic, so I wouldn't use metal tools on it unless they fit perfectly. I don't use a tool, I've been lucky enough to unscrew it with my hand, even on the first oil change. I struggled pretty badly the last time though, so I might have to check out what ashu is talking about.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    over at YouKnowWhere

    Admittedly, I haven't used it yet, but Todd described it perfectly. And its the same hard plasticky material that the cartridge and our intake manifolds are made of. Not metallic.
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