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Mazda6 Sedan



  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    silver 6i without the sport package and with the 16 inch alloys. I always prefered the non-sport package cars. The best looking 6 is without the sport package and with the 17s IMO.

    I was going to get the 17s, but I have gotten used to the 16s and I decided that I didn't want to mess with having two different sets of tires (winter and summer) like I did with my Protege. I know the tires that come on the 17s are all seasons, but they're low profile and they ride harsher than 16s with the 60 series tires...that, and the fact that I have rust. Don't know how long I will have this car.
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    for a 6 at Flemington Mazda in Flemington, NJ. Yo There's a 2,000 dollar Mazda rebate and 2221 dollar dealer rebate. Without the rust factor that would be a great deal.

    I haven't seen many 6's lately. Maybe the dreaded rust issue is making its way around I did see a red fire 6 with sport grille and spoiler on Thursday though.

    About the 04 MPV I caught a brief view of it my local Mazda dealer. At first it looks overstyled. I really liked the 2000-2001 MPV. Maybe the 04 will grow on me.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    the rust won't be as obvious
  • ...a new place to discuss RUST, and everyone had agreed to go there!

    I feel for those of you that have it, but the rest of us that don't would really like to just talk about the car!

    Thank You.
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    I saw a blue 6 parked in a lot the other day. You can even tell if the car is a Mazda 6 in the dark.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    saw it today...pebble ash

    a really light metallic beige.

  • I don't think it's fair to absolutely exclude people who want to discuss rust on this particular board. I, for one, think the rust issue made this board remarkably interesting. Without it, it's just lotsa guys talking about Mazda6 sightings. Nice to hear, but not very creative or provocative. Remember, it isn't just about rust, it's about the continued existence of Mazda. This issue could sink the company--the hysteria could affect other models. Aromas, where are you??????!!!
  • I really want a Mazda6 2004 or 03 with sports package with the $500 rebate and that low interest rate deal that they have until december. Anyways i dont want to deal with the rust so i want to know which mazda6s dont have the rust issue? Thanks.
  • At this point, we don't know. As far as we can tell from reports and looking at new vehicles at the dealership lots, the factory is still pumping out cars with rust/staining on them. For the time being, I would recommend holding off on the 6.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    Mazda hasn't even admitted it's rust yet, and it seems to be found on cars that are outside of Mazda's range of affected VINs. So basically if you buy one before they problem is resolved you're rolling the dice. Do you feel lucky?
  • Well, I must admit, if I needed a new car, I'd buy a Mazda6 now. The discounts are just too good. I could probably score a leftover 2003 for $14,700--can't beat that. For that price, you're getting a sedan that handles almost as well as a 3-series with superb crash protection too. I'd be willing to overlook the rust issue b/c of other huge advantages.
  • Nice to see people not able to keep the stain issue to the problems/solutions board. It's always the same two or three posters, saying the same two or three things... "Mazda hasn't admitted..." "We don't know what the solution is..." "It hasn't been fixed in the factory yet..."

  • redkey1redkey1 Posts: 270
    While I agree that I was getting tired of hearing the same complaints about the rust, these posts were in response to a question regarding if now is a good time to buy. I am sure many people are faced w/ the same dilemma: good deals vs possible rust issue. I am among them.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    recklaz asked a question about when to buy. We answered it with our opinions. Should we ignore certain problems (or potential problems) that will be resolved in the future, in a discussion about when to buy? I don't think so. I'm waiting for a resolution in this question myself, though I may get tired of waiting and buy the Mazda3 or something else if it takes too long. Too bad, because one of my local dealers finally has a Mazda6 with exactly the options I want.
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    He will have a mazda6 soon, he just placed an order for one.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    That's why he doesn't want to hear about the rust. I wouldn't either. ;)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The best thing to do if you find a message that doesn't interest you is just to skip it.

  • 1wiseguy1wiseguy Posts: 120
    Well, the snow could start falling any day now and I need to change the tires on my 6 since I've got 17" alloys with low profile tires.

    I plan to buy steel rims since the salt can pit/cause real damage to alloys. Does anyone know if I need to replace the 17" wheels with other 17" wheels? Since the 6 can also be configured with 16" wheels, I was wondering if those would work for the winter.

    And if I change the wheel size, will the speedo/odo readings be accurate (i.e will having 16" tires mean I'm going slower than the speed on my odo or faster?).

    Finally, anyone have any suggestions for a tire that's quiet, has good winter performance, and isn't too soft (since most winter driving is on dry pavement and I dont want to replace the tires after one season).
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    I don't think it does effect other Mazda models. The only Mazda model thats affected to my knowledge is the 6. I mean the Protege doesn't have rust neither does the Miata. Eventually Mazda is going to have to owe to up the rust issue in some shape or form. When they do it it won't be pretty. Its been 2 months now when is Mazda going to owe up to it? If I had rust on my car I would be mad.
  • ian2ian2 Posts: 168
    You're better off with 16" wheels: cheaper and better traction in snow.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Get the 16s. You'll want a higher profile tire anyway in the winter to reduce the shock of potholes. I'll bet 60/16s have close to the same diameter as the 50/17s, or whatever is on the sport package.

    Gosh this place is slow.
  • I'm currently 15 and a half an am currently looking at a 04' 6s for my car. I now what your thinking, what the hell is a 16 year old doing with a 27k car?! I have been looking for something that is safe and affordable and also would last me past college. I have come to a stop with the 6s. I am in love with it, but now that I hear problems about rusting, transmission issues, etc, I'm a little concerned. Can I have some guidance please?
  • aromasaromas Posts: 314
    twinturbotim: Yeah, buy an RX-8. Although no one your age should want a 4-door car. Better yet, wait about a year and buy yourself a used G35 Coupe, well made and it looks hot. The chicks will come running and at your age that's all you should care about. Man I wish I grew up with your parents, heck I'm 35 and I wish they were my parents now at least they would buy me a new M6 without rust.
  • Man I would kill for an RX8 but the prob is theres a price difference of about 7k with what I want in it. I looked at a volvo s40 and s60, but insurance was 5.5k a year! I am now debating between the 6s and the accord. I mean the accord may have a few more amenities and a 20 more hp horsepower with better pickup off the line BUT ITS A HONDA. Everyone drives a honda. I wouldnt be suprised if 3 out of every 5 cars were hondas. I want something that not everyone has. Plus the 6s has a sportier look to it and from what I hear better handling. Insurance is also a lot cheaper then the volvo, and a few hundred less a year then the accord. The reason I looked at the 6s is the fact of its good safety rating, and plus adding side airbags and curtains would give me the sense of security I need when Im driving. Where I live if your goin 3mph over the speed limit they'll pull you over. Dont get me wrong Id love to speed, but where I live i dont know if its necesary to get such a responsive car such as the accord. Thats why I went with the 6s. Good performance, good handling, good safety, and overall, appealing looks. I just hope all these defects I hear about wont kill my thoughts about this car.
  • Well, Tim, we can safely assume by your young, impetuous age and your screen name that you will (most likely) crack up your first car. All kids do. So, quite frankly, I don't recommend getting a brand new car. Aromas is correct--perhaps you should buy something used--preferably a Hummer.........but seriously, I don't recommend the RX8. The insurance for that thing for a teenager would be crippling. Besides, despite its four doors, it still can't carry much stuff. And it's not an all-weather machine. I'm also leery of rotaries--the mileage is poor..........Were I you, I'd strongly consider a base Mazda6i stick. It'd be at least $1500 less than the Accord and it'd be far more unique too, and sportier. And it would be less to insure than the Accord. (People don't realize that the Accord's insurance is always very high.).........don't bother with a V6, uses more gas and the torque steer might kill you and that leadfoot all you teens have. My point is, you're gonna get bored with your first car in a few yrs, so why spend huge $$$$????.......anyway, drive safely, slowly, and always belt up!!!!
  • aromasaromas Posts: 314
    I wouldn't get a Honda or Volvo either. No teenager should own one. You'll drive those cars when you're 40, no point of getting saddled with one now. Obviously you want a 4 door and are concerned with safety which is commendable. When I was 18 all I cared about was looks and speed but then again I was a typically shallow somewhat intellectually challenged(ie:stupid)teenager and insurance was under my father's name. God knows what mods would have been done to my 78 Monte Carlo with the money you have. Safe to say it wouldn't have been spent to increase safety.

    I would go for a 6 if your are looking for the sportiest 4 door out there but don't be fooled this car is deceptively quick once you get it going in AT and just plain fast if you get manual. Haven't heard anything about transmission problems and hopefully the rust problem will be solved by the time you buy one. The car is a hoot to drive and feels very secure on the road even at the highest speeds.

    Wait for the hatch to come out next spring, has a more youthful look and is more practical if that's your desire. Rust shouldn't be a concern by then. Since you don't have kids(I hope)get a stick.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    What about the new Mazda3's coming out? I think they'd be a definite option for you to check out. Or how about a Protege/Protege5? They have great deals on them right now due to the upcoming release of the 3.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    the 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege???? It's got the looks and the go fast goodies to match it, AND dealers are selling them CHEAP to clear inventory!!!

    go snag one up while supplies last!
  • The thing is I dont think I'd add any mods to it. I mean my bro has two cars, a tiburon and an older explorer. He added tons of mods to the tib (ie turbocharger, bodykit, etc) and dont get me wrong, its a nice car, but its a hyundai. See, where we live, snow is a factor. Thats why he has that old explorer. My family isnt loaded with money in any means, (perhaps im trying to compensate for an over-inflated ego) but I just want a car that nobody has and that is safe. Im just concerned about the mechanical defects and longevity of mazdas. Thats why I am completely clueless on what to do
  • 1wiseguy1wiseguy Posts: 120
    If you're under 16 then you should focus more on learning to drive. Get something with a manual transmission (like a Civic SI) and high reslae value so you can properly learn how to drive with a stick and have a lifetime to enjoy driving...and then buy something nicer when you've mastered that skill. My first car (1985)was an 81 Mustang (stick) and to this day I hate driving automatic.

    Save the power for when you're better equipped to handle it.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    twinturbotim Nov 18, 2003 8:09am

    " Im just concerned about the mechanical defects and longevity of mazdas. Thats why I am completely clueless on what to do"

    The Protege/P5 has been outstanding! The 6 is (except for the rust issue which will/should be fixed by the time you're ready to buy). The MPV and Miata are good too. If you're looking at any of these cars you'll be fine reliability-wise.

    But as everyone has said, unless you wanna pay more for insurance than for the car, get a used car. Seriously.

  • Bridgestone Blizzaks - best by far. Used them for years. And, just because you have 17" tires does not mean you have to go back with same. In the US - Discount tire or Tire Rack can help you with a proper changeover size - but a proper 15" will work if you get the right load range a close to tire height.
    Down side - if it gets above 50 degrees, or almost always dry pavement - you will wear faster.
    The first 50% of this tire is a soft compound great for ICE!!! The tread after that is better than an all season - but you do lose the ice traction after that. Depending on your driving habits - I generally can get two winters out of a set - I just leave them on after March of the second year and finish wearing them out.
    I used them on a Ford Ranger the first time - 2wd, and went places the 4wds were stuck in. Two foot of snow and ice were just regular pavement.
    Cannot reccomend a tire more highly.
  • What mechanical defects are you referring to?

    The staining issue gave me pause for all of about, oh, a minute before I continued along my purchase path of the 6s hatch. It's the sweetest ride available for the money, no doubt in my mind.
  • Bridgestone Blizzaks - best by far. Used them for years. And, just because you have 17" tires does not mean you have to go back with same. In the US - Discount tire or Tire Rack can help you with a proper changeover size - but a proper 15" will work if you get the right load range a close to tire height.
    Down side - if it gets above 50 degrees, or almost always dry pavement - you will wear faster.
    The first 50% of this tire is a soft compound great for ICE!!! The tread after that is better than an all season - but you do lose the ice traction after that. Depending on your driving habits - I generally can get two winters out of a set - I just leave them on after March of the second year and finish wearing them out.
    I used them on a Ford Ranger the first time - 2wd, and went places the 4wds were stuck in. Two foot of snow and ice were just regular pavement.
    Cannot reccomend a tire more highly.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    saw my first 6 hatch on the toll road/66 today. bright blue color, regular 16in alloys, with funny looking (IS300 style) taillights. didn't even notice it was the hatchback until i saw the rear window wiper, for real.

    the pics online were much more impressive. the car had 30 day tags, but they wern't red, they were blue. usually here in VA the 30 day temp tags are red. perhaps blue temp tags are from MD or DC?

    anyway, i didn't expect a hatch 6 until spring!
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    It could be a Euro-SPEC car that Mazda is showing to its dealers in secret. They did the same with the Mazda3 in Canada.

  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    because several years back, on the same road, there was a 626 wagon right next to me. and we NEVER got a 626 wagon here in the 90's as far as i can remember....

    there are two Mazda dealers close to 66 and the toll road - Rosenthal Tysons and Rosenthal Arlington. maybe is was a "special" car as you mentioned....

    they need to scrap those aftermarket looking taillights, and put the car in an elegant color. could be a hit out here in the burbs!
  • You guys got me to thinking about that. So I just called up my tire place and inquired about snow tires for my 6. I would be going from the Sport Package 17" to whatever they recommended. They recommended specifically the Bridgestone Blizzaks, 16" on a steel rim with hubcabs. Total cost installed $662.50. Said it wouldn't affect my odo/speedo much, if at all.
  • qddaveqddave Posts: 164
    Hate to sound like a broken record, but listen to the experience here, don't buy a new car. You gave many good points to support this, you have an overinflated ego, and you don't come from a family of excessive wealth. I'm 25, I bought my first car in Feb. 2002, a '99 Civic SE Sedan. It was my last year of university with no job prospects. I would have given my life for a 2002 Pro5, but I restrained and thought about the big picture. The "what-ifs"! What if I didn't get a job, now I'm stuck with payments for 5 years, which by the way would be the only way to afford one. Plus, because I'm locked in for 5 years, I would have ended up paying a ton of interest. That's just not finacially feasible. So, I bit the bullet and bought a dog of a car, but I knew I was getting a car that was in great shape, with some warranty left on it, should have been reliable (which it has been), and should hold some resale value. Well, guess what, I just payed off my 4 year loan two weeks ago, 1.5 years ahead of schedule, and it still runs like a dream. I added some mods, intake kit, new pioneer deck, leather wrap for the wheel and leather knob, and a set of 99-00 Si rims. It's way different than so many other SE/DX's on the road. It's slow, but it gets killer mileage and I get a sweet deal on insurance. And the most important thing, I don't owe anything on it. Trust me, you don't want to be the only one in your class that can't go out on friday because you have to save up to make car payments. go and get a 2002 Pro 5 or sedan, it's more than enough for a teenager.
  • Ive always wanted stickshift, but where I live, it snows a considerable amount sometimes. How does stick perform on ice and in snow? (Not to mention traffic jams, which its a pain)
  • I know this sounds messed up coming from a teenager, but im actually concerned about safety. The way I look at it, a few thousand is nothing in a lifetime, and you cant buy yourself back when your dead or maimed. The protege has a bad safety performance and this is still why I have my eyes on the 6. I dont know now whether about the s or i. I can afford insurance (of course with help) i just refuse to drive a civic and i dont know of many safer cars out there. Another thing is I dont want to get a used car. I know insurance is better and all, but im going to have this car past at least a 4 year college (so about 10+) years. I want something I can never get tired of (aka civic) and I want something with longevity. This is why I still think i should get the 6. If you want to try to persuade me otherwise I'll be on the Mazda Chat tonight
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    soemtimes sticks in snow are better. you have better control over what gear the car is in and the clutch allows easier power control to the wheels.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    That's news to me.

    I live in Canada and have a stick and have never had a problem with it. I actually like it better...more control over what's going on, IMO.
  • 1wiseguy1wiseguy Posts: 120
    One of the big advantages to a stick is downshifting instead of hitting the brakes. This is crucial in snow/ice. Take it from a Canadian. You have a lot less control when using the brakes- especially if the traction is different at each of the wheels, which could cause a spin out. I know you can downshift an automatic, but reacting to a bad situation is often a function of instinct, and people who drive a standard are more likely to downshift since it's part of the driving routine. I know very few AT drivers who ever change gears.
  • In manual mode on the automatic, downshifting is pretty easy. However, you can't control it nearly as well as you can by slipping the clutch. In fact, the sudden downshift that the automatic does is probably as bad as using the brakes.
  • seafseaf Posts: 339
    It sounds like the car you're looking for twinturbotim. Mazda is known for making pretty reliable cars, right up there with Honda & Toyota. Just some bad associations with Ford cars in the past that have caused problems, mostly because they were ford vehicles rebadged as Mazdas, which not the case with the 6.

    All this talk about snow tires and MT vs AT in the snow. Just drive slow in the snow, don't try anything stupid like going over a 2 foot high snow bank or taking an on/off-ramp at 55 mphs and you'll be fine. Most people drive too fast when it's slippery outside. Practice in a icy parking lot how a car handles when it looses traction and it can do a lot more for you than snow tires or 4WD will in terms of safety.

    I've gone through my share of Minnesota winters, all on regular FWD cars with AT and all-season tires, never had any accidents. A few times stuck in snow (once every 2 winters), but mostly because the streets haven't been plowed in the morning yet, and those situations could've been avoided too if I had stopped to think before plowing ahead.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I live in Minnesota and I've had 7 cars, all of them manual transmission. Slowing down in snow and ice is definately easier with a stick. You don't even necessarily have to downshift, sometimes just letting off the gas until you're going slow enough to use the brakes is good.

    I don't really downshift to slow down, I just let off the gas and then use the brakes. Compared to an automatic, I figure I've saved a a lot of brake pad and rotor wear by just letting off the gas and leaving it in gear when slowing down.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    "Slowing down in snow and ice is definately easier with a stick."

    You guys are great drivers, I found going over .5mph on black ice to be hazardous to my health.

    I actually drove a stick for 12 years. You have more control in snow at the expense of inadvertently causing slippage.

    But I never felt safer as I did with my 4WD. The 4wd will brake all wheels at once and 2 feet of snow never slowed me down.
  • What ever happened to a quick grab of the Emergency Brake followed by the loose condition powered out of with full lock at 5,000 RPM?

    In fact, the stock 16" on my 6s actually handled a 6" snow storm up here on Monday with 40 mph winds quite nicely.

    Mark. :)
  • qddaveqddave Posts: 164
    I too have a manual, and yes, I feel it is a great advantage in the snow. I also have Blizzaks, which helps. But Tim, in no way was I suggesting you buy a Civic. I don't think I'd ever recommend one to someone who dares post in the Mazda6 thread. In fact, the reason I'm so IN to Mazda is because of the first time I saw a Pro5. A year later, my girlfriend, now fiancé, was looking for a new car. She bought a 2002 Pro LX Auto, with a little helpful cross-shopping from yours truly. I would recommend this car to anyone. It's a hoot to drive.
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