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Mazda6 Sedan

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Comments

  • Ford was considering the Atlanta plant, but instead chose the Hermosillo, Mexico plant. Ford will expand and significantly update the Mexico plant and will employ an additional 2,000 workers there. This plant may also build Lincoln and Mercury vehicles built on the Mazda6 platforms. The Mazda6-based cross-over may be built in Atlanta, but another strong contender for that vehicle is the Oakville, Ontario plant. UAW workers are certainly not happy.

    Personally, I would rather buy a Japanese vehicle made in America than a domestic vehicle made in Canada or Mexico. I don't remember seeing anti-American protests in Japan, unlike the other two countries.

    On an interesting note... the new Nissan Titan is more American-made than the Dodge Ram, Chevy Silverado, and GMC Sierra.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    the Mazda6 based SUVs will be built in Oakville, Ontario, not Atlanta.

    The Mazda6 based SUVs WERE going to be built in Atlanta, in the new plant that Ford had planned to build for Futura production when Nasser was still in charge.

     http://wardsauto.com/ar/transportation_ford_build_two/
  • Our government continues to allow Japan to dump steel and automobiles @ in our Country. The biggest form of protest the Japanese have exhibited would be the tariffs they've applied to our imports, and their refusal to purchase our goods. Mexico is feeling the bite because their jobs are leaving for China. Our high tech jobs have gone to India. Cars made in Mexico are almost pure profit for big business. I've advised my Daughters if they decide to buy foreign, their form of transportation will not be allowed in my driveway. My allegiance is to keeping jobs in the USA and $ in America.
  • The article I was referencing was a Detroit News article dated 10/7/03, near the bottom. It actually could be taken as both the Atlanta and Ontario plants may build vehicles off this platform.
  • "I've advised my Daughters if they decide to buy foreign, their form of transportation will not be allowed in my driveway. My allegiance is to keeping jobs in the USA and $ in America."

    And the best way to do that is to buy a product that was made here... one that pays workers here... one that supports our economy.

    A large manufacturing plant is a big boost to the economy and has a much larger impact than the profits earned by the parent company. Go ahead and stop buying made-in-the-USA Honda's, Toyota's, Mazda's, Hyundai's, Mercedes's, BMWs, Mitsubishi's, Nissan's, etc. They'll close their plants here and hundreds of thousands of AMERICANS will lose their jobs. Keep supporting the domestic manufacturers as they export more and more jobs out of the country. Sure, the profits come back here, so that they can open up more and more foreign plants.
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    What is this 1985? This is 2003-2004.

    The Buy American Theme is old school and played out.
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    "I've advised my Daughters if they decide to buy foreign, their form of transportation will not be allowed in my driveway"

    Show me one car that doesn't have some foreign influence please.
  • I don't have a problem with Mazda...they're associated with Ford.
    Carguy I wish this was 1985...unfortunately Americans that were protesting are now sleeping, errr or dead.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Okay, folks, let's get back to the 6 now. I'm sure you can find appropriate places to continue this conversation on our News & Views board.

    Thanks.
  • I'm buying a SIX!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Guess what folks?

    I meant what I said. We need to get back on topic here.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Great! You can buy mine.

    It's a silver 03 6i, manual transmission, 16 inch alloys, alarm, power driver's seat, with 5700 miles and 35% tint. It still smells new inside, and it's absolutely flawless except for some rust developing in the sash cavities of all 4 doors. Let me know when you want to pick it up!
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    I'm sure it'll sell for a pretty penny. All the best.
  • I'm buying a Hatch in Pearl White.
    Sheeesh younger generation!...if you had offered to deliver it...I would have accepted.
    I have to rest my voice now....in a few days I'll be singing...the SIX Days of Christmas...fa la la
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    I'm a buyer....how much do you want for it?
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    buy MINE. I want a hatch :) 6 hatch, of course - although th 3 is tempting.

    Or maybe an RX-8 - drool!
  • waydewayde Posts: 198
    I think I remember someone saying production starts this month - ??
    When is the car expected on lots?
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Well, you're a dealer, so you wouldn't give me much for it since you probably already have BRAND NEW 2003s sitting on your lot that you're trying to sell. Edmunds says it's worth $11,500 to a dealer and about $12,500 for private party. YIKES! Good thing I got a good deal on it. How much should I deduct for the rust?
  • Has anyone in here installed a custom cd deck? If so, how much does it cost? I want to put one in, but with the way the dash is made i dont know if I can.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    $10,000 with rust?

    forget it.

    why are even trying to accelerate the depreciation on our own return on investments?

    Note: I know purchasing cars is not an investment, it is an expense.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    "why are even trying to accelerate the depreciation on our own return on investments?"

    It has nothing to do with me or what I say here. The damage is done, the word on rust is out. Anyone who reads this townhall crap has already read about the rust issue and can look up the value of my car their selves if they want to. It's no secret, so me talking about it doesn't really affect anything.
  • I can't verify this right now, but there is mention that a stop-sale order has been issued on all remaining 2003s until the recall has been performed.
  • There's pretty much an involuntary stop-sale order don't ya think?
  • Well, you're certainly doing your best...
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Anybody got anything helpful for twinturbotim Dec 16, 2003 9:47pm?
  • Do you have the Bose system or the standard? Bose wiring can be tricky. I would recommend going to a reputable car audio shop in your area and have them take a look at your wiring, especially if you have the Bose.

    Anybody aware of any aftermarket head units available yet?
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    we are sold out of 2003's...so I could use a used 6..

    also, I heard that navigation will be available on the MZ6 this spring.
  • ian2ian2 Posts: 168
    I saw a picture of someone putting a head until in the top compartment on the dash. What's wrong with the OE unit? With Bose, there are preouts so you can add a aftermarket amp or sub with ease. Personally, I find the Bose system good enough. The only thing I'd add is a MP3 player, but I don't want to swap out the CD changer.
  • OK, I heard some more information on the recall. The recall affects 2003 Mazda6 models built between 10/2/02 to 8/6/03. It will call for an inspection of the fuel system, particularly through the access panel underneath the rear seat. If your fuel system is determined to be leaking, replacement parts will be ordered.

    If your fuel system is leaking, it is more than likely leaking small amounts of gasoline fumes, possibly into the vehicle. It sounds like this recall came about from owners complaining of a fuel odor. Mazda will be contacting affected owners in mid-January.

    If your fuel system is determined to be leaking, it is best to not drive your vehicle until the leak is fixed, which should take between 2-3 days depending on how quickly your dealership can obtain the parts. You should insist on a loaner for that time period. If your dealership refuses, call Mazda and they should take care of the problem with the dealership.

    This problem with the fuel system can also trigger engine codes and active the check engine light. If you have been getting a lot of CELs even after the PCM flash recall, this could be the problem.
  • XM radio, in dash...
  • ian2ian2 Posts: 168
    Just out of curiousity, how many people are willing to pay $10 a month for radio? I don't think I would.
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    and I do.

    I look at it this way. I get a much better variety than typical radio. I get ESPN radio that barely comes in on my AM station.

    Some people argue that a cd changer is better since there is no fee. But how do you fill the changer? $9.99/month is less than one cd.

    And I won't count people who create mp3 cd's from downloaded music. It's an option, but not one that I agree with.

    So in the end, I get the benefit of hearing things I couldn't otherwise hear as well as save money vs. buying cd's.

    Sure it might not be for everyone, but it's far from a waste of money.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Posts: 2,287
    I would NOT pay $10----for that you get commercials on most of the music streams. But I GLADLY pay $13. I would find it very hard to live without Sirius. Once you have had it, going back would be like going back to watching over the air tv with rabbit ears, or going back to dialup after having had broadband.

    Also, if Mazda EVER starts factory installs, they are a Sirius partner, not XM.
  • I have XM and love it. There are commercials on some XM stations but hardly enough to complain about when my local stations play 10 minutes of music, 30 minutes of commercials, and 20 minutes of talk in the morning.

    BTW: If you purchase your subscription by the year you can decrease the cost to $7 per month. I will probably buy a 1 year contract when my 3-free trial months are up.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Posts: 2,287
    Heck, yeah.

    EITHER XM or SIRIUS beats the fire out of FM.

    Like the difference between color tv and black and white!
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    a one year old car. That thing lost almost 50% of its value in one year! I know Mazda's depreciate heavily but not this bad.
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    I don't know where this $11.5K number came from, but a 2003 Mazda 6 that sold for $23K (and stickered around $24.5K) is definitely worth a lot more than $11.5K.

    - Mark
  • replayreplay Posts: 11
    I just went through edmunds appraisal of my mazda 6i. Came up with up about 14.5k. Thats for one with 10k miles on it. Its still kind of high depreciation. But a lot better then 11.5k.
  • A base 6i automatic does better than the Camry LE auto according to kbb.com but not quite as well as the Accord.

    03 6i auto w/ 15k in good cond: $13,800
    03 Accord LX auto with 15k in good cond: $15,500
    03 Camry LE auto with 15k in good cond: $13,200

    Out of the 3 cars the Camry has the highest MSRP at $21,064 while the Accord and 6 are hovering just over the $20,000 mark.

    Increase the options and the Camry XLE is worth $600 more than the 6 and nearly $3000 less than the Accord.

    03 Camry XLE with leather/roof: $15,700
    03 Honda Accord EX-L auto: $18,025
    03 6i auto with leather, abs, side airbags, roof:
    $15,200

    MSRP's are as follows:
    Camry XLE: $26,000
    Accord EX-L: $24,700
    Mazda 6i with options: $24,000

    So compared the to Camry the 6 is actually doing pretty well. Nothing to be ashamed of.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    when I checked the value of my 6i manual with premium package. $11,500 was for a dealer trade, but I just checked it again and now it's $12,800 for a dealer trade. Either I screwed up the first time, or my car is worth $1,300 more to a dealer this week than it was last week. Private party value is $13,900 and dealer retail is $15,794, which seems kinda high because I bought the car brand new for $16,800 @ 0% for 60 months at the end of June.
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    newcar31, thanks for the clarification - it illustrates what happens when one person pulls a trade-in number for a low-end model, assumes it is a high-end model, and comes up with "50% depreciation in a year" to prove a bogus point.

    $16.8K to $12.8K is 25% in a year, about in line with most cars when you use wholesale values for the trade. And your retail cost includes a subsidy for the 0% financing so it's slightly inflated which makes the actual depreciation slightly less.

    All cars within a given class depreciate similarily. They'll vary some, but it will be 25% vs. 27%, not 25% vs. 50%. It makes betting on depreciation one of the least important factors in choosing a car brand.

    - Mark
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The sticker price of my car was $19,900 and some people paid that, so some people's depreciation is much worse.
  • Sometime early in the New Year, I'll be getting a 6i. I don't know how this rust issue will resolve itself; I just know that the 6 has everything I want. It's better-looking than the Accord, sportier than the Camry, and cheaper than both. I had mused a bit about buying a Focus 2.3L (as sorta a 'cheaper' 6) but I really don't want a Focus. What I really like too is that the 6 did splendidly in crash tests.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    "And your retail cost includes a subsidy for the 0% financing so it's slightly inflated which makes the actual depreciation slightly less."

    Not sure what you're getting at here, but there were no rebates in lieu of 0% financing when I bought at the end of June. I got all possible rebates except for the recent college grad (I used that on the Protege) and the 0% financing. As far as rebates and special financing are concerned, usually it's either/or, and the dealership is less likely to negotiate off sticker, but I was fortunate enough to get $1,800 off sticker before $1,250 in rebates, AND get 0% for 60 months. This dealership was a "no haggle" dealership and had the $19,900 car marked at $18,100. I knew I qualified for $1,250 worth of rebates and the 0% on top of that, so I figured it was a fair deal and I didn't really want to haggle because I didn't think I could get that much better of a deal to make haggling worth it. If I didn't take the 0% financing, the price would have been more because I wouldn't have gotten the $250 rebate for using Mazda financing, so the 0% financing was not subsidised by the purchase price.

    There have been higher rebates on the car, but you couldn't use 0% with any of them.
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    I see what you're saying, but let's say the 0% financing were not available. Then you'd have to pay the finance charges so in effect the car is effectively costing you less than the price you paid because you would have paid a finance charge if you had selected another model.

    IOW, 0% financing has some value and to be rigorous, this value must be included in the depreciation computations.

    - Mark
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Posts: 2,287
    Why?

    Are you saying if the owner had paid cash, an imputed interest rate should be added to the sale price, since the buyer lost the time value of the money?

    Sorry, such complex accounting will never satisfy most people, who only want to know how fast a car depreciates...
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    If Mazda gives you 0% financing, then compared to paying cash, you get to keep the money in your pocket rather than pay for the car. So you could put this money in an interest-bearing account and earn interest on it. This earned money is an additional discount on the price.

    Alternatively, if you were planning on financing the car, the 0% financing saves you the interest charges on the loan.

    In either event, 0% financing is an additional discount on the price of a car.

    If this doesn't make sense, then let's call it a day.

    - Mark
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    "In either event, 0% financing is an additional discount on the price of a car.

    If this doesn't make sense, then let's call it a day."

    Obviously the higher the interest rate the more you pay each period. The more you pay the greater the total cost when the loan is paid off.

    Two identical cars in terms of options, and mileage will fetch the same price in any given area. So the car that was financed with the least amount of money will obviously net the owner a bigger chunk of money. However, the rate at which both cars depreciate is the same.

    The lost economic opportunity of some of these transactions, which some people would liken to your kids college education expense just isn't there. Obviously 0% financing on the loan is the way to go, preferable than paying cash, barring that I'd take 1%, barring that I'd take 2%..etc.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I thought you were trying to say that my dealer jacked up the price of the car to make up for the 0% financing. That is the case a lot of the time, but not in my situation. I would have paid the same amount for the car if I had paid cash, but as you have already pointed out, if I paid cash, I would be losing out on the time-value of money. If 0% is available, it only makes sense to pay cash if there are additional rebates in lieu of 0% financing. The only way you realize the full benefit of 0% financing is if you keep the car through the whole loan period just like the only way you pay all finance charges if you're paying interest is if you keep paying off the car for the entire loan period. You'll have to figure out what the 0% financing is worth over the loan period compared to the finance charges you'd pay if you didn't use 0%, and compare it to the current value of the rebate available in lieu of special financing. Sometimes it's a better deal to take the big rebates instead of the financing if they're either/or and pay cash. Where's my Texas Instruments BA-35 when I need it?
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