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Comments
IIRC, I was told [SoA] that 2 tea cup overfill should not yield any side effects.
-Dave
Greg
You might want to torque the lug bolts on your wheels to spec. It's felt that overtorqued lug bolts cause warped rotors.
Welcome to the family and enjoy your new Subie!
Jim
1. Clutch chatter/shudder - it only chatters in the morning for the first couple of shifts and sometimes even after the car is warm, first time the dealer replaced the clutch fluid to get rid of the bubbles in the clutch oil, second time they just told me "it's normal, they all do that", but I've had 5 cars with manual transmission before and never had this problem so to me this is not normal. Is it going to get worse with time? how long will the clutch last like this? Is Subaru going to do anything about this?
2. Steering wheel vibration - it comes and goes as I drive on highway, curves in the road and lane changes seem to affect it. I replaced one tire, then I balanced all of my wheels twice, then I tried two other different wheel/tire sets ( which I know were good ), no change, then the dealer replaced the front drive shafts which helped for 2-3 months then it came back.
Just recently the dealer did 4 wheel alignment, it was better for 1-2 days now it's back. I had couple of different mechanics/shops look at this problem and noone seem to be able to help me. I don't know what to do now, I've been fighting with this problem for over 2 years. I know two other legacy owners with the same problem, is this typical of this car? what else can I do?
3. Burning rubber smell - This smell comes through the vents and is most noticable when it's wet outside, it's not the undercoating burning, dealer confirmed that. Funny thing is that when I had a loaner a 2003 Forester, it had the same smell. Where is it coming from?
My bumper to bumper warranty runs out at the end of the month so I would appreciate any help, thanks.
I had the techs drain the engine and refill. This time, I had them put in 4 qts and then take a reading - the dip stick is right at the "F" mark. Granted, there is some oil in the filter, but I am beginning to think that the 4.7qts specified in the owners manual may be a touch high. From here on I think I will have them fill to 4 qts, then take a reading, and then add if necessary.
Cheers,
Outbike
To answer questions you raise here and on the Subaru Problems page (why two separate boards? Surely both are the same)
1. Clutch judder is an infuriating characteristic of Subarus. It is worst on cold damp mornings and is supposedly the result of non-asbestos clutch facings taking up moisture on cool nights. It is the biggest hassle of Subaru ownership and puts even the most enthusiastic of fans into the grumps. Alternative solutions including moving to Alice Springs (okay, I'll allow Arizona for you although this may be a bit far from Canada) or buying an auto next time have been considered. Replacing the clutch appears to do nothing
2. Noise from front suspension on cornering probably means that the sway bar bushes are binding. Ask your dealer to remove and lubricate. When this happened to me, it was infuriating.
3. Steering wheel vibration may be tyre pressure baing off left to Right. For some reason, Subarus are extraordinarily sensitive to inequalities in pressure (even one pound pressure difference) and all sorts of wierd behc=vaiour manifest themselves. Get a good quality tyre gauge and check pressures regularly
Cheers
Graham
;-)
Steve
My wife's 2002 Outback suffered the same problem, and had the new clutch parts installed at 15K miles. Her 2003 Outback, which replaced the '02, now has about 6K miles, and exhibits the chattering situation. I checked with the dealer and found that the new parts were incorporated into production in early 2003. Unfortunately, our VIN # is within the last 20,000 or so units with the old parts, so I'll be taking it in for a replacement (with the new parts) soon.
Given all this, you'd think we'd have sworn off Subaru manual transmissions by now. Nope. We still prefer the responsiveness of the 5 speeds to the automatics we test drove before buying each of our Subies. Like Steve said, it's part of the quirkiness we learn to live with. And, I must say that in my case, they are fantastic vehicles, other than this odd characteristic.
Len
I don't really know what the cause is, but here's my theory: it is undercoating burning off.
Now here's my explanation: when the car was new I would get that smell on a fairly regular basis; the dealer, and lots of people on this and other boards, came to a consensus that it was caused by the heating/melting away of the cosmolene-like goo Subaru sprays on the undersides of the vehicles to prevent rust and protect the vehicle from corrosive elements. Overspray on exhaust and other components would heat up, stink up the joint, and then be gone.
So why do I still smell it, and why only in wet/snowy weather? Because that is the only time my center differential really gets used, and therefore that is the only time it gets hot enough to get the cosmolene goo on/near it up to its 'stink point'.
So that's my theory. In any event I don't let the smell bother me too much. Anyone else have ideas?
Cheers,
-wdb
Since it has proven to be a reliable smell (every time it is driven in heavy rain/snow), I actually find some comfort when it appears. Now I can add in that the car's AWD is doing its job! Perfect!
The last of my Subaru mysteries solved!
Ralph
-mike
IdahoDoug
Jon
Funny that you mention about hood deflectors. It's a topic that has only featured three times in the previous 1596 posts and all positive.
The other complaints mentioned are also unusual.
Not sure why but could it suggest that you are about to have three Little Billy Goats walk over your bridge.
Cheers
Graham
Mike-
Sounds like you have inadvertantly put the system into valet mode.
Try opening the driver's side door, depress and hold the "UNLOCK/DISARM button for 2+ sec. That should take it out of valet mode, if you system is the same.. Otherwise, see your owner's manual.
-Dave
Took it to dealer. They started taking out plugs and found (can't recall # right now, but first plug on left side on engine) a badly fouled plug. None of the other plugs showed any problems, so tech. replaced spark plug wire. CE light stayed on, so tech. replaced coil for that cylinder. CE light went out and stayed out. All symptoms gone. Car now runs great again.
That's the good news. Now the bad news: $378 for fix, $198 for labor. I complained about the 2 hour labor charge. I changed my plugs at 30K and it took much less than an hour. I told service mgr I would expect them to be able to pull all plugs, diagnose, and replace bad parts in about the same time, especially since the plug wire and coil are so easy to replace. He took $50 off the labor total which made me happier. I also asked if this was a warranty item, but was told plugs, wires, coil etc. were tune-up items and not major powertrain items.
Also, the routine the service dept. went through to diagnose the problem is almost exactly what I would have done on any of my previous cars that showed those same symptoms. I was scared away by the CE light and the fact that this is the first car I've bought new.
Don't be fooled. If you've worked on cars in the past, or experience this problem yourself, save some money and check the spark plugs first and work back from there. Plugs do tell a lot about what's going on.
Thanks for all who relayed their own experience.
-Brett
Steve
If they still sell it as an accessory, they must be convinced that it's sturdy with the revision. Ask if the dealer will update yours for free. Or call 800-SUBARU3 and ask them to.
-juice
On the CD player issue, I have noticed in times past that when using homemade CD's with stuck on labels, they sometimes get snagged.
Jon
-juice
Jon
If you prefer Michelins, a couple of us here have switched to the Pilot Sport A/S and have been very happy with the increased traction and road handling, especially under wet/snow conditions.
You might also want to check out the Energy MxV4 Plus - I believe they are purportedly 'quieter' than the PS A/S, at least according to the Michelin website. My PS A/S are markedly quieter than the original Wilderness tires.
(2001 Outback)
Ralph
Brian
Ralph
Greg
Greg
Greg
I had an intermittent on/off CEL a couple months ago. Double-checked the gas cap at each refill but inevitably it would come on. Took it to the dealer and the OBDII indicated the oxygen sensor had gone kaput. Replaced under warranty. Service order read "rear O2 sensor".
Maybe take it to AutoZone for a free diagnostic.
I'm sure your tire pressures are correct so it could be the alignment spec (Subaru's) is too broad.
Jim
Thanks for any suggestions.
Jon
Looks like you'll have to do what we all have to do when that happens
that's, stick your hand between the back rest and bottom of the seat and feel/search for that pull tab. It'll be attached to the [~center of] seat bottom.
-Dave
Jon
It's a shame I don't have my OB, but I do have the OBS which I'll take a look.
The pull tab shouldn't be deep under the seat. Should be in the vacinity of the edge.
Stay tuned
-Dave
OK, pull all the seat belts away from the center. Stick your hands behind the seat bottom from the passenger side [not too far in] at the edge. Run your hand across towards the center. Your hand will be stopped by the pull tab. Feel for the strap. If none, then it may have snapped off, so you'll have to feel for the square-like rocker to release.
Happy hunting
-Dave