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kiawah@carspace.com
daewoo lanos 1400cc
turn key you hear the 2 second pump noise buzzing and it starts 1st time usualy always'
go to it next time turn key dont hear the pump kicking in and no way will it start, the engine tries to start but wont
i have changed the pump and pump relay switch but hasnt made any difference
question.......
could it be the selonoid , it sounds as though it may be electrical and when i dont hear the noise it doesnt start as if it isnt getting a signal to the pump?
any ideas please could it be electrical
thanks
if proper dash indication, perhaps a loose fuse or loose connector / broken wires somewhere.
repeatible? i suppose a VOM checking for voltage at the pump, but you'd have to get access to the pump.
there was only 1 wire that was cut which was a pink one fairly thick so i have attatched that back together with a block,
now i dont have the starting problem that seems to have done the trick
but since i didi that... my indicators and hazard lights wont work i have checked the fuses there ok
also my airbag light is now staying on which it never did before
any ideas
thanks
CTRL-ALT-DEL time. that's what i'd try. :shades:
"My left turn signal only seems to want to work when it's cold. Once I turn on the heater or the weather warms up, the left turn signal becomes intermittent, and will only flash once then stay off until I hit the lever again, then flash once. Turning the ignition off/on usually clears the problem but not always. Sometimes, after I've parked and turned off the ignition, I find that both front and rear left turn signal lights stay on and the only way to turn them off is to turn on/off the 4 way flashers.
Any ideas???"
.............
I have the exact same problem in my 2000 grand caravan - any one figure this one out? As an aside, my left rear signal stopperd working, and the front signal light started flashing faster (as its supposed to) and the other problem went away. As soon as I fixed the rear signal light (loose connection), flashing speed returned to normal, but so did the problem. Hazards usually work with no problems, and right signal is never a problem.
Any suggestion is appreciated
thanks
You say the hazards work, but not the turn signals?
Well, one suspects either the multi-function switch (on the stalk), a wiring harness, perhaps turn signal relays if they exist or a flasher module.
Perhaps this will help:
http://www.dodgeforum.com/archive/threads/96-caravan-turn-signals-295115-1.html
I was thinking of a solar trickle charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter. However, the cigarette lighter only receives power when the key is in the ignition. Will the charger work in this case? I assume not, but thought I would ask.
Plan B is to connect the solar charger directly to the battery. Would I have to remove the allegator clips from the car battery before starting the car?
And recommendations for chargers or chargers to avoid?
I appreciate any advice you can give.
As far as disconnecting the charger when starting the car, read the manufacturers instructions. Usually there's a diode to keep the current from flowing the wrong way, but it's best to be sure.
If the lighter doesn't work with the key off, then the charger can't keep the battery up by using it with the key off.
I would just connect it to the battery with clips, route the wires under the hood in a safe location where they won't get damaged and shut the hood. The solar array needs to be placed in a location where it gets direct sun for most of the day to be effective. You may be able to put it inside in the windshield and route the wires through the door jamb.
My Elantra has 94,000 miles, 5-speed. The other day the air bag and gas exhaust lights came on, at the same time the headlights blew. After replacing the headlight bulbs, they blew again. I switched over to high beams and they also blew. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Get it back to the dealer, or if you want to manage resolving this problem yourself.....get the terminals cleaned on the battery, and then take it to an autoparts chain to have your alternator and battery load tested. They'll do that free of charge.
Let us know what you find.
From a bad alternator (actually, the voltage regulator inside the alternator).
I would NOT drive this car much at all. If you blew headlights, you are going to quickly fry all kinds of electronics on this car, if you already haven't done this. Voltage high enough to burn out headlights might make this car into a salvage vehicle if enough of the electronic modules are burned up!
I would actually recommend removing the alternator and taking it in to be tested, if you have the mechanical tools and capability to do this.
Bolivar would be correct, if you really did have that high voltage other damage could be done as well (like the cars main computer), a bunch of relays, really any of the electrical devices. I guess it is conceivable that you really could have that high of a voltage and the battery not yet boiled off.
Once you clean the terminals, if you put a voltmeter on the battery see what voltage you have. It should be about 2.2 - 2.3 volts per cell, and there are 6 cells in the battery. If you are sitting right around 14 volts, you should be okay to drive.
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/HeatingAirConditioning.html#ACCTemperatureSensor- NotOperating
...
... the overhead cabin light assembly.
I'm not making this up!
$3,000 a year maintenance.
For this amount, no break downs in 4 years does not give you any bragging rights.
Thanks
The reason I recommended a new battery (and this is just a long distance guess) is because you said the car would not start.
And, if a battery has low voltage, the dash read-outs start to do strange things in many cars because the component being monitored does not work correctly when it has low voltage. Especially if it has a digital dash display.
For this kind of maintenance expense, I still would have the battery 'load tested'. Or at least put a voltage meter across the battery with the car off and see that you have at least 12 volts. It actually should be 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. If you see down into the low 11 volts, the battery is questionable. 10 volts and you have a dead cell and definitely need a new battery.
When I was driving one morning to church, I noticed my turn signals dont work at all! I dont know where this came from????? The hazard signals dont work either....
I checked all the fuses, and they seem to be working just fine. No shortages.
If some could instruct me in this field, that would be greatly appreciated!
I work on my Camry all the time and keep her tuned up. Im finally stumped and admitting I need help!
Thanks for your time!
a 7.5A fuse labeled "Turn" in the J/B located under dash near the steering wheel,
a 10A fuse labeled "Haz" in the J/B located in the engine compt near the driver
front wheelwell,
a turn signal flasher module in the left (driver's side) kickpanel (possibly with the numbers 1,2,3 on it)
check the fuses and modules there, and also wire harnesses found for full insertion.
it's also possible the HAZ switch is broken.
If you have corrosion, clean it first. If you have a battery that is approximately 4+ years old, it's most likely on it's last legs.
A weak battery or problems with the battery cables, which means low voltage to everything, causes strange things to happen to the dash and warning/indicator lights. The problem actually is low voltaage to the 'computers' and various sensors, but this shows up as strange readouts on the dash.
If the battery is old, put a new one in it.
i'd specifically look for a loose ground connection at the point the negative (-) cable from the battery attaches to the frame of the vehicle.
also, i would specifically check that any large / main fuse (that might be present at the (+) terminal perhaps or in your fuse box) is seated very firmly.
If not, I'd check the fuse box itself, even remove it and looks behind it for signs of shorting in adjacent circuits to the gauge circuit.
Another prime suspect in fuse blowing is the dome light.
After that, if I were in your shoes, I'd locate the wires that go, say from one of the tailights and start peeling back panels or carpets in the trunk and following that wire lead to some sort of coupler or junction box. Then with a test light, test the coupler there. If that doesn't work, it gets hairier. You might need to get a test light with a needle probe and start peeling up carpeting and sill plates in the rear and poking those wires with the test light. You almost for certain need a wiring diagram, which you can sometimes purchase for car audio shops. You have to know the colors and where they go. Since you lost ALL the rear lighting I'm thinking it is a disconnected or bad coupler at some junction box. But by all means check all the fuses for starters, and look for corrosion in, or behind, the fuse box.