Electronic Gremlins - Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
Got a short? Headlights flashing? Let's talk about your electrical maintenance and repair issues here.
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I have exactly the same dilemma right now. I have a '95 Camry that has 132,000km and I still have the original battery in it. The battery is ok so far since my car always start properly without any hesitation. The winter here in Toronto is a little bit on the nasty side (temp goes down to -20C sometimes). Now, since my battery is 6.5 years old, I am thinking of replacing it although it seems that there is really nothing wrong with the battery. I am more inclined to replace the battery since it is more than five years old but also at the same time I do not want to throw a good battery.
One of the mentioned relays is likely the problem, whether it be the relay itself or the connector.
Intermittent 4x4 System, Power Windows, Rear Wipers
^ ELECTRICAL - LOSS OF 4X4 SYSTEM
^ LAMP - 4X4 LAMP ILLUMINATED
^ LAMP - NO INTERIOR LIGHTING
^ MOON ROOF - INTERMITTENT OR LOSS OF POWER
^ REAR WIPER - INTERMITTENT OR LOSS OF POWER
^ WINDOWS - INTERMITTENT OR LOSS OF POWER
1997-98 EXPLORER, MOUNTAINEER
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to correct the Service Procedure Steps.
A flashing 4X4 lamp and/or a intermittent or loss of:
^ Power windows
^ Interior lights
^ Rear wiper (if equipped)
^ Moon roof (if equipped)
^ 4x4 system (if equipped)
may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by an intermittent Battery Saver, Accessory Delay or One-Touch-Down Relay operation and possible chafing of vehicle wire harness.
Repair the affected circuit, and/or replace the Battery Saver, Accessory Delay, or One-Touch-Down Relay. Refer to the Diagnostic/Service Procedure for details before replacing any components.
The info is on another page and all you have to do is click here
* Lights flicker when brakes are applied
* Dashboard door open indicators activate randomly - no doors are open
* Brake light failure indicator light comes on intermittently - all brake lights work fine
The car has been very reliable, and I would like to fix this somehow. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
If it's the light on the dash, I would suspect the little level indicator on top of the master cylinder reservoir. It sounds like it's getting stuck. Other than that, maybe some wear sensor is misreading. You might try disconnecting the level sensor and see if the light goes out.
this is a '93 S-10 Blazer, 4X4,automatic.
Maybe one of the techs who drop in here can offer further suggestions.
It is the only common denominator.
First thing the need to do is to do a draw test. Find out what is drawing the battery down. I think that once the draw on the battery is determined, the rest of the problem should be obvious.
To check for a draw, you disconnect the Negative battery cable, attach one end of a voltmeter or teslight to the battery terminal and the other to the battery post. If the light illuminates or the voltmeter shows voltage, there is a draw. Then it is just a matter of pulling fuses or disconnecting circuits until the light goes out to find the circuit that is the draw.
Once the circuit is determined as to what is the problem, then it is a matter of locating where the wire is shorting or what unit is causing the problem.
Off hand, I am suspecting that either the power plug(cig lighter outlet) or the wires in the back of the fuse panel are the culprits.
Dealers, the mechanics get paid a flat rate for warranty work, so if the manufacturer will pay warranty for throwing parts at it, then that's what they do.
I'm not saying ALL dealer mechanics are like that, but that is what they push for. I walked into a dealer once to have them check out a warranty deal on a truck that was making a noise out of the water pump. The bearing in the water pump went, I knew it, but the truck only had 18,000 miles on it and I had to keep from laughing when the mechanic brought out the scanner to hook up to the computer. An obvious problem and the mechanic (oops! that's tech) had no clue where to start. Now that gives you confidence, don't it?
Ok, I feel much better now. LOL!
1999 Mercury Mountaineer by catkins Jan 20, 2002 (01:01 pm)
I bought a 99 Mercury Mountaineer new. At a little over 2 years, the digital display
for the sound system went out. You can't tell time or what station or function you
are using with Mach One audio system. However, the radio, cd and tape deck work.
Also, the cigar lighter next to the sound system quit working. The accessory input
(2nd lighter) located on the lower right side
(passenger side) of center dash continues to work. All fuses are in tact. Dealer
refuses to address since vehicle is over 50,000 miles. I have been told that this is
not an uncommon problem with 1999 Explorers and Mountaineers. Has anyone else
experienced this problem, and what, if anything did you do, or do you suggest
the road the courtesy lights in the cab came on for no reason, and would not go off.
They finally went off after the 40 min relay timer took them off. On Monday the
odometer would not show up, and the cargo lamp on message came up in the
message center. The dealer had it for two days and could not find the problem. I am
thinking a loose ground, but I would have thought the dealer would have found that. I
have noticed that both daytime running lamps are out. Could this be related? Any
help would be appreciated.
The fuse as I recall, blew initially after I used the power lock switch(the one beside the driver). After the dealership changed those components that I mentioned before, the 40amp fuse got knocked out again AFTER I used either the power lock switch or the power window switch, I can't really remember which one. However, what I noticed is that the blown fuse occurred after I used these components...not during use.
Just replaced that 30A fuse(It was a 30A Fuse and not a 40A) this weekend. I exclusively used the power window and did not use the power door locks just to find out if the window's circuit is the one that's giving this problem. The power window unit worked for two days, however just this morning when I was about to open the driver side window, the power is gone again. Just to reiterate what I said before, this occured not during any operation of the windows but either during before or after using the windows. Many thanks for your help....
You are right , this bug will probably be hard to track down and eventually will cost me more big bucks and headaches in the process. Yes, the power windows and power door locks are in the same circuit and sharing this 30amp fuse(I've checked it myself on the Chilton Manual). I will give your advice a try and check the fuse box itself, maybe this is the culprit to the problem. I will keep you posted. Thanks again for your help...
I am not sure if Toyota uses a positive logic or a negative logic but your theory might be also the answer to this problem. As I recall, this problem occured when the mentioned components are not in use and as you said, a ground fault might be causing this problem.
The door entry for the harness is a good place to look.
a wiring manual is a major league help in finding them.
nowadays, however, there ARE a number of "general purpose" modules scattered around the place... the GEM in recent Fords controls stuff like the front and rear wipers, blower motor, etc.. and basically all that is really there is probably connection blocks and SCRs.
danger - airbag warning. yes, always, drop the battery ground lead before hinking around with anything that might in any way be connected with an airbag system. just because.
airbag stuff tends to be set alone and handled with greater care, since an airbag system is basically selected small explosives that stuff a punching bag in your face just before your face would knock the steering wheel off the column. if there are airbag problems and ANYthing else acting up at the same time, I bet on ground problems. find the common ground point to all the bad actors, take it apart, clean it up and replace bad crimp terminals if needed, reassemble with lots of internal/external toothed lockwashers and everything lightly coated with No-Ox-Id or grease, and try again.