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There is an ABS sensor in the differential housing that causes Rangers to do strange things relating to the cruise control and the overdrive light. A Ford mechanic should have seen this problem before and get it fixed directly....
This sensor isn't hard to fix. Just remove a bolt holding it in and pull it out.
Your mechanic is just screwing you, wanting the addition markup he quoted for the cable. I would expect he is not buying a Ford part (if any after market Autozone, Pepboys, etc carry the cable) and it should be cheaper than Ford's price. In any case, a mechanic gets 'wholesale' prices from Ford and aftermarket parts purchases, so he will 'make money' one the 'retail' price he puts on a ticket. This looks like he 'made up' some price to charge you, and isn't going to back down when you challenged him on the price.
I would have my car dragged out of there to someone else. And make a complaint to AAA if he is a 'certified' shop.....
Intermittent 4x4 System, Power Windows, Rear Wipers
^ ELECTRICAL - LOSS OF 4X4 SYSTEM
^ LAMP - 4X4 LAMP ILLUMINATED
^ LAMP - NO INTERIOR LIGHTING
^ MOON ROOF - INTERMITTENT OR LOSS OF POWER
^ REAR WIPER - INTERMITTENT OR LOSS OF POWER
^ WINDOWS - INTERMITTENT OR LOSS OF POWER
1997-98 EXPLORER, MOUNTAINEER
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to correct the Service Procedure Steps.
A flashing 4X4 lamp and/or a intermittent or loss of:
^ Power windows
^ Interior lights
^ Rear wiper (if equipped)
^ Moon roof (if equipped)
^ 4x4 system (if equipped)
may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by an intermittent Battery Saver, Accessory Delay or One-Touch-Down Relay operation and possible chafing of vehicle wire harness.
Repair the affected circuit, and/or replace the Battery Saver, Accessory Delay, or One-Touch-Down Relay. Refer to the Diagnostic/Service Procedure for details before replacing any components.
I'm searching for an electrical connector to match an existing underdash connector. The shop manual labels this connector as "Van Conversion Provision" with no C- number. It has 4 wires: 2 fused high current wires, a control wire from the ignition switch, and a ground wire. I'd like to find a source for the mating connector.
Thanks -- W6DWF
Ok, my local garage is just about stumped, and before they start to replace till it's fixed, I thought that I'd try here.
When headlights are on, when either turn signal is turned on, the front signal works correctly, but sometimes fast. However, both rear brake lights flash along with the center brake light, and the turn signal does not work.
With either turn signal on hit the brake pedal, turn signals glow along with the center brake light.
Headlights off, sometimes normal turn signal operation. Hit brake pedal while turn signal on. Front signal fine. Back signal stops flashing on correct side. Brake lights slowly pulse along with turn signal on the other side.
Occasionally, with headlights on, and brake pedal depressed, turn key off but car keeps running. Not always, but at least 3 or 4 times.
Lastly, when I have parked the car (car turned off), foot still on brake pedal, open the door, a warning buzzer goes off (like I've left the headlights on). Foot off of brake, buzzer stops.
Other than throwing the car away and not experiencing Farfugnugen, any help??!!
OK, another symptom. I noticed when I just got back from the store, with the brake pedal depressed, and the car off, gauges were functional, and all the indicator lights were glowing (just like if the key was in, but the car not turned on).
Ok, a little more info.
I noticed something else this morning. Got into the car, BEFORE I put the key in, put my foot on the brake. All of the indicator lights (trouble lights, oil, temp, engine light, etc.) glowed faintly. These are all of the same indicator lights that go on when you put the key in and turn until just before starting or starting the car.
When I got to work and turned the car off, I then put my foot back on the brake. All of the prior indicator lights glowed again (this glowing is visible, but certainly fainter than when starting the car), and the needles for engine temp and fuel also moved to reflect current engine temp and fuel level.
I'm sure (well, as much as I can be), that the brake pedal is somehow involved. Is there a switch that might be bad? Or a common ground through the brake pedal?
We took it to the local Dodge dealership and they told us this was fixed by a factory recall - I think they replaced a computer chip and we haven't had any problems since. There was absolutely no charge to us - the service was done about 4 months ago in Aberdeen, Washington (Dwayne Dewee Dodge) and we have 142,000 miles on it so warranty is long gone.
Hope this helps.
The VW's computers were smart enough to know that the car was decelerating too quickly without getting a brake signal, and illuminated the Check Engine light (the cruise control also stopped working). If it knows that much, why not just illuminate the brake lights continuously while the ignition is on once a failure has been detected? This would be much safer, as other drivers would know your brake lights aren't working properly well before you have to make a stop.
All you need to do is start your van. Then slide your temp lever all the way to full cold. Then turn the Mode Control to the one that sends air to your face only. Then turn the 'blower switch' to all the way to full. Now go to the leftmost three buttons. Press the top one (rear wiper on constant) and the bottom one (rear wiper washer fluid). Hold these two for a few seconds. Once the lights come on solid then begin to flash, you can let go. The AC will now calibrate. You will feel the air blow out of all the different zones at different intervals and see lights come on and go off. Then after a minute or two the top button you pressed will be slowly flashing. This means it has been completed. Press the last flashing button and you are done. Turn off the van and started it back up and see now you don't have those infernal blinking lights anymore! Hope this helps! Oh, be careful with the battery, it is very touchy on Dodge Caravans and can blow out any electrical thing so it is better to take the battery out and charge it and don't charge it directly. One guy mentioned it blew his on board computer just accidently touching the wrench and grounding the battery so be careful with the battery.
Two minutes in the car with your message printed out and voila!!! Fixed !!
I love the internet!!
How did you check the relays exactly?
You might also check with the dealer to see if there are in-line fuses or links you don't know about.
Do you have a visible ground strap that grounds the engine to the frame? Is that in good shape? Do you get a good flow of volts into the battery when the car is running (simple voltmeter test across battery poles).
So you think I fried something?
when drivivg or the car is running the back lights will flash three to five times and will keep on doing that what could the problem be i need some one to reply on a A.S.A.P