None of my gauges (speedometer, tacometer, gas, oil, engine temp) are working at all on my 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L SE (150K miles). I washed in self wash and afterwards it stalled out and would not turn over. After letting it sit for about 9 hours it restarted but now the gauges are dead. Most other electrical (other than radio) seem to be working fine. Any thoughts?
I need some help with a strange problem with my 1996 GMC Safari conversion van (120,000 miles).... Shortly after placing van in "Drive" (especially in the morning) my electric power seems to momentarily go out (if lights are on, they will blink - just once, then everything is fine).... It has done this for some time now, and has not really been a problem, however, lately, a few times it has actually killed the engine....I usually pull over, and it starts right back up... The clock resets to 1:00 and I have to set the time on the clock.....Sometimes, several of the "idiot" lights will blink while this happens too... It has not become a major problem yet, but, I am wondering if anyone has seen this before? It only does this shortly after putting the car in drive (never in reverse)..... I really like the van and plan to keep it for a long time (I think GM made a mistake by discontinuing this van), however, if it becomes unreliable, I need to replace it rather than spend a whole lot of money on it... Thanks in advance for your help, this really is a great website.....
When turning on the ignition, a popping sound was heard either from the inside of the car or under the hood. After that happened it was as if someone disconnected the battery, no ignition, lights etc. After about ten minutes everything came back to normal, lights on, car started. After this happened I noticed my automatic door locks became inoperative and my automatic window washer was not working correctly. I think that I might have had some type of overload and that caused those two problems. My question is, does this vechile have an in-line circuit breaker? So far, the problem has not returned. Any help would be appreciated.
My last resort was to remove the connection harness from under hood on fire wall. This I did with only fair amount of difficulity being removing the clip-on-snap-on covers over the harness and the one screw that holds it firmly to the fire wall junction. Found the male and the female connections real gooked up. Cleaned both with engine cleaner and rinsed well, then lubed with electronic cleaner. The story doesn't end that ,that cured my problem. As I was allowing this job to sink in. I procceded to see about removing the fuse block under the dash. While observing the possiable way of removing the fuse block itself, I see 2-wire's.,one orange one white actually not even related to the fuse block but had a mid wire connecter right under and near the fuse block. These two wires went strait down to the floor board under the carpet toward and under the seat as if they went to the dome light so I placed my dome light bulb in it's position and it was burning as usual. Then I unplugged the split line plug near the fuse block. Guess what? The dome light went out. I procceded to replace my courtesy light bulb's to their sockett's and guess what? When I close the door's the light's go out. You might call this story (When the light's go out in Georgia). The floorboard under the carpet is wet. Due to a mysterious leak when it rains constantly for a while. But I'll proceed to remove the continuation of the wire from the connector to the light to fine the ground or open unprotected connection causing my problem. Thank's to all of you. Problem Solved, Bozie PS-How do I get this one problem removed from all the forums that I'm posted in? By the way cleaning the cable connecter to fire wall seem to have made the motor run smoother and more power.
the power seat control will no longer move my seat back and forth. up and down control still works fine. is there something i can do short of taking it to the shop? thanks
I own a Ford Windstar 2001 and have continual problems with driver side window and two rear vent windows. The driver's window motor has been replaced FOUR times(under warranty) and is acting up again. The two rear windows, work one day and not the next. Not for a week and then for a month, one works, one doesn't. It is just the strangest thing. Any ideas? :confuse:
Check the fuse for the power seat circuit. Check that there is nothing caught in the rails under the seat, jamming it. (Someone posted a funny story about the used condom.....)
If these are ok, it could be a switch or wiring problem.
But power seats usually have at least 2, usually 3, or more, motors and cables under the seat. So it could be a motor or cable problem.
Electrical problems mean using schemetics or diagnoistic testing steps as outlined in a service manual. Which means having a voltmeter and at least accessing connectors, probably under the seats.
The electrical moon roof on my 1994 4Runner is stuck in the open position & thunder storms are headed our way! There is no manual way for me to close that moon roof! I thought it was simply a fuse problem, but after checking the owner's manual, the other features supported by that same fuse still work. The security switch seems to be stuck in the depressed position. OK...so I'm an idiot, because I tried prying off that overhead plate cover so I could get a good look at the wiring and at the housing plates of those switches, but I couldn't find a way to even remove that cover without damaging it. How do you remove that panel without breaking it? Also, before I messed with it, the roof's motor still made noise when I pushed the button in the open position (it just didn't make noise when pushed in the closed direction). Now, since I tinkered with it, the roof's motor is not making any noise at all !!!
Do I need to head straight to the dealer's over-priced repair services, or does anyone have sound and simple advice for a novice?
I have a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. My battery keeps being drained to dead. Chrysler say's it is the Alarm System, they disconnected it. Now I have no Alarm, Remote doors, etc. and I spent $350 on a new Alarm System, because they said my old alarm system was causing the problem. Something is causing the battery to drain when the Alarm system is connected. Any one have any info?
I have a problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan. It all started with a car wash. The vehicle went dead and refuesed to start. After trying for couple of minutes it started and four lights, AC, Ventilation and other two for wipers constantly blink for about 15 minutes and automatically stop. Everything else seems to work fine and even the AC and the Wipers work normally. Can anybody tell me what could be wrong? Is this a major problem or something, which is easy to fix. Thanks in advance for your help.
i found a couple good spots to look for electric problems with radios and other stuff one is www.the12volt.com and the other is www.installdr.com these 2 places give wiring diagrams and other info. the one called the12volt you have to sign up for but its free just takes a couple minutes
just within the past week my 1996 Ford Explorer XLT started acting strange. I leave the windows down when the car is in the garage and when I backed out of the garage and tried to roll them up nothing happened and didnt work with the switches on any of the other doors either. So I shut the car completely off and turned it back on and they worked again. Didnt think much of it until it happened again but this time I noticed while driving down the road that the lights in the console for the 4Wheel drive kept changing between 4wheel drive and 2wheel drive. I did replace the door lock mechanism for locking/unlocking the driverside door with the button or remote. But I was very careful and believe something else is going on. I am an Audi Tech and have been a Mechanic since 1974 but dont know how the American cars work exactly (mechanically yes, but wiring and computers no). And noone in my area seems to want to give me any advice they just basically snub me. Any help?
1997 Suburban - the following ceased to function simultaneously : remote key power door lock button , rear hatch window release button on the dash , all 4 power door locks .
Did a visual check on the fuses located within the fuse panel at driver left knee . Fuses looked AOK . Verified 12v at each fuse with 12v test light . Which of the 24 fuses should control power door locks ? The chart within the fuse panel did not specify .
Looking for electrical common component to troubleshoot .
Is there a relay somewhere ? Electrical schematics anywhere ? Guidance ?
I have a '92 Merc Grand Marquis and it's gone through two alternators in 3 months. The last one I installed was a rebuilt one. It has just started whining like crazy, just like the other one did before it blew. Somethink seems to be eating it up. It is not being overloaded with excessive sound amplification or any other add on equipment. Where do I begin???
:confuse: I too have had a weird experience with a T&C van. It went dead, battery was replaced. Now the rear washer and wiper light blink at starting, the air conditioning lights dont work. After about 10 minutes the lights stop blinking and the air ones come on. Those items still work fine even though the lights are doing weird things. It does make one crazy though. We also have done the fuse checks. There has to be some type of reset or something that is causing the problem.. Anyone solve this yet???
I knew someone who owned a GMC Safari Van and had similiar problems including power lock failure. The alternator was one problem they fixed and had limited success but still had other problems. So you might have the alternator checked to rule it out (or in). If you live in a larger city take it to the local GM dealer and tell them about it. Chances are they know the problem. If they want to charge you a lot to fix it, hold out. You will at least know what it is and can check around and see if you can get it fixed for less money.
You might check out http://the12volt.com/ it has a lot of info on wiring diagrams and if they don't have it, maybe they might know who would. Hope this helps.
We have a 2002 Windstar and it's doing the same exact thing. It blows a fuse 2 in a week and then nothing for months and then 3 more times. Usually when trying to open a window. They replaced the driver's side window motor 10 days ago and I've had to replace 2 fuses so far. Now I don't have to do anything for it to stop working. It's in the shop right now as I speak but I'm sure they won't find anything.
Have you gotten any other responses about this? What does the dealer say?
Ok guys I know its an old car. but it still runs :-) Here are the 2 problems: 1) The doors light - lights inside the car that goes on when you open the door doesn't work. (little problem) 2) My brake lights don't work. The windows brake light is as bright as a new car but the regular brake lights don't work. At night, you can see my tail lights a little bit, but when I hit the brake, even they die out. On releasing the brake pedal, the tail lights (albeit dim) come back on. Where shud I start looking ? Thanks in advance.
this is a duplicate post. Try not to do that if you can avoid it. Your question is answered in the "Let's Talk About Brakes" forum that you already posted in.
Edmunds is a well-traveled and well-monitored board. We won't neglect you :P
Well, I've been having starting problems. My mechanic replaced the fuel pump and the electric ignition switch on my 94 Chevy Astro with no results. Now I've suddenly noticed that when I'm on the road if I honk the horn, the engine dies. Did my mechanic mess things up when he installed the electric ignition switch (that probably didn't need to be replaced) or is this strange symptom part of the reason why I am having starting problems. Any ideas?
THis morning I almost din't get my truck started, it turned over fine but cranked 15seconds or more before firing. Revved great after that. Pulling out of drive it quit, but started up with little problem. On the way to work in the dark, I noticed my lights going bright then dim, at the same time my voltage guage fluctuated from 13V ( normal ) to 16-17V. Truck ran fine for the entire drive (approx 26 miles) with no engine miss or other noticeable mechanical problems. What could the problem be & how should I go about checking it out? :confuse:
First thing I'd do is have the battery load-tested, and then check the output of the alternator if the battery is determined to be good under load. Your engine's computer does not like weak voltage and will do all kinds of crazy things.
Yes, 13V is marginal for the computer and it's the fluctuation that creates the problem not so much the baseline. Regardless of its effect on the computer, you have a problem there anyway if the voltage rises and drops quickly, back and forth. Voltmeters are normally very steady.
You could also check for a bad battery ground strap or engine to frame ground strap issue.
hey i have the exacte same problem; i opened mine the other day and when i tried to close it the lock seemed to not unlock the toggle switch, i cant figure out how to get the plastic cover off either. If you got any advice let me know. If you want to close it there is a flat head screw if you open your card holder, turn that counter clockwise and it will manulally close the roof.
This problem has gotten worse. I had the battery & altanator check twice and both checked OK. I got the truck started again but it only ran for a few seconds then the voltage dropped from 15V down to nothing then the engine quit and will not start back. It does turn over but does not hit a lick. Removed a spark plug to check for fire but it had none. Could this be a coil, ignition module, or some other small problem that I just can't find? Is there some way to check these things without removing &/or replacing one by one? :confuse:
I fixed mine tonight, i got fed up. The cover has three locking mechanisms. When you look at it from the drivers seat looking forward the back edge has a .5" plastic tab that you can free by sliding it forward and pulling down. The other plastic tab in the front will free also. The left side nest to the card holder has two brass tabs, if you use a 1.5" putty knife you can press these in and free the whole cover. The switch is then visible and easy to get to. I fixed mine by just taking out the locking mechanism. Hope this helps.
Oh I'm sure there is a step by step diagnostic process but I don't know your truck well enough and of course there is little standardization on vehicles so giving electrical advice is risky online. I'm kind of confused by this voltage drop issue, as if your ignition is just cutting off like you took the key out. I'd need to be there to say something useful about it, sorry. Maybe someone else who knows this vehicle more intimately has some ideas for us.
I have a 99 Mountaineer. The interior lights, wipers and windows do not work. This was intermittent and then they all stopped working completely. However, if I turn on the wipers, they'll run for three strokes, then stop. I found (in a rainstorm!) that if I hit the door lock button, the wipers will run for three strokes and then stop. I can do this continuously but driving in the rain and working the door lock button to make the wipers work isn't too safe. :>) Anybody have a solution before I take it to the dealer to get reamed for a repair? Is there a relay that controls all these items? Is the GEM replaceable by me? How can I test it? Where is it located and where can I obtain one (if it needs replacing) that isn't marked up to the dealer 3x price?
Found the problem. I had a broken wire in a connection under the relay box. There are three red wires with a white tracer connected to a single wire in the wire bundle coming out of the relay box. You have to cut the tape off and peel back about 6". This connector is taped seperately and mine was wet and had green corrosion are the junction and up into the wire itself. The single wire was broken off and no power was getting to the Auto Shut Down Relay or the Fuel Pump Relay. Found the solution on a Dodge Forum. Hope this helps someone else out in the future.
Good detective work! Well that goes to show you what a rat's nest you can get into trying to solve what "seems" to be a simple ignition problem. Who would have thought of such a thing?
But patient diagnostics, step by step, to isolate the problem, is the key. You could have randomly swapped out every part of that car and not fixed it.
one thinks there should be a special DIY award offered by the hosts for bizzare problems sluethed and solved like this one. then again, aharper MUST have lots of personal satisfaction - that '94 must seem like an '05 right now.
Now you know what mechanics have to face sometimes. They roll up the shop door each morning and now and then crazy problems like this roll in and beat up everybody. The mechanic ends up putting in way more hours than he can charge, the owner sees nothing different about their car except that it starts and he has a huge bill, and everybody wonders if another weird problem is lurking nearby.
I have a 2002 Taurus and the trunk was left open in the garage for several days. The 1 year old battery is now completely drained from the trunk light. When I turn the key, there are no warning lights or clicks of any kind. Should a jump start from AAA and driving the car around for an hour bring it back or should I have the car towed to the dealer? I've heard that the alternator cannot recharge a fully drained battery and that the engine computers lose settings that the dealer needs to reprogram if the battery is drained for an extended period of time.
No, don't let the alternator charge up the battery. Take the battery out, get it fully charged, restart the car and see what happens regarding everything else.
I have a 1995 Chev. G-20 van. The battery went dead and when we jump started it, the speedometer started acting like a tach. After replacing the battery, the speedometer doesn't work at all. Before the battery went out, the speedometer worked fine. (The odometer works fine.)
Does anyone have any ideas as to what needs to be done? My son wants to use this for his learners permit, so I have to get it working again.
Hi folks! Here's a big challenge! I discharged my battery last week. 1st sign: radio goes off when starting the fan(or other accessories). I stopped the car and was not able to start again (my battery was dead and probably my alternator too! ) So I boosted my car... It work (than I tought I had a good alternator... and big current leak). I went to the shop to verify and charge the battery... It was good (I was supprised a bit). I re-installed it and of course the car started. (It had to be a leak!) I disconnected everything that was installed after I bought the car. 3 days later I experienced the same "1st sign". I took off the battery and charged it at home. Fully charged, I re-installed it. The car started (I thought it was the alternator that was dead). I took the voltage without the key in: 12,86V. With the key in but just before the ignition: 12,77V (so far it was good!) I started the car and the voltage increased to exactly 14,00V. ... very confused now... The alternator seems to work perfectly. Is it possible that an alternator gives voltage without giving current? (cause 14V should prevent the battery to go too low) Is the diode bridge is part of the alternator or is it a independent part?
97 jeep tj lately seems to turn over more than it should, first start ok,when engine hot seems to roll over for bout 10 secs, Jeep only has 47k on it. Engine lite not on.
In general, it looks like your charging system is working ok. A little less than 13 volts is about what a battery should indicate. 14 volts while running should be enough to charge the battery.
Has the battery been 'load tested'? Not just re-charged, but a heavy load placed on it to see if it has capacity to put out a large charge for some time. It may recharge enough for you to get a few starts out of it, but is not really in good enough condition to recharge significantly and put out a lot of current.
Or, you have a short that is discharging the battery when the car is not running. You said 'I disconnected everything that was installed after I bought the car.' This indicates someone has been cutting into the electrical system, putting in that big radio, amp and speakers, Yes? Someone that did not know what they were doing. Now you are going to have to find that short and fix it, or the car will continue to eat the battery.
Hello all, the turn signals and hazards on my 2002 Intrepid SE stopped working today. The level cancels normally. The turn signal indicators on my dash do not work. My hazards do not work. My turn signals do not work. Everything else, including parking lights, headlights, brake lights, etc, work.
Hi. This is a long message but I really need help! I own a 99 Toyota Celica GT with 80,000 miles on it. On Sunday it wouldnt start. I consulted a few people (only one of them being a mechanic) and they all seemed to think it was the starter. I tried jumping it, just to make sure it wasnt the battery and it still wouldnt start. So yesterday my boyfriend put the new starter in, and of course, it didnt work! It turned out that it was not the starter. He decided to make sure it wasnt the battery, so we hooked it up to his car for 15 or so minutes... and my car actually started. He needed to rev the engine a bit, and a bunch of black smoke came out of the exhaust. Surprisingly, it still started this morning, too. So I drove my car to return the starter, and when I got home my car was smoking! I opened up the hood and it looked like it was coming out near the engine coolant thing. I was hoping someone might know what the problem is. Ive heard battery, alternator, fuel something.... but this new smoking thing makes it seem like a worse problem. Please help me!!
As a quick guess, your orgininal non-start problem was the battery - since a "jump" got it started. The smoke afterwards should not be related - not knowing what was done in the installation of the new starter. (Good luck trying to return the starter. Electrical parts are not usually returnable.) The smoke could be from a throughly "flooded" engine and might clear up. Also, the playing around - push starting, etc. - could have caused the timing to jump.
Comments
None of my gauges (speedometer, tacometer, gas, oil, engine temp) are working at all on my 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L SE (150K miles). I washed in self wash and afterwards it stalled out and would not turn over. After letting it sit for about 9 hours it restarted but now the gauges are dead. Most other electrical (other than radio) seem to be working fine. Any thoughts?
I've tried replacing fuses but with no luck.
Thanks,
I think that I might have had some type of overload and that caused those two problems.
My question is, does this vechile have an in-line circuit breaker? So far, the problem has not returned. Any help would be appreciated.
Any ideas? :confuse:
Check that there is nothing caught in the rails under the seat, jamming it.
(Someone posted a funny story about the used condom.....)
If these are ok, it could be a switch or wiring problem.
But power seats usually have at least 2, usually 3, or more, motors and cables under the seat. So it could be a motor or cable problem.
Electrical problems mean using schemetics or diagnoistic testing steps as outlined in a service manual. Which means having a voltmeter and at least accessing connectors, probably under the seats.
Are you able to do these things?
The security switch seems to be stuck in the depressed position. OK...so I'm an idiot, because I tried prying off that overhead plate cover so I could get a good look at the wiring and at the housing plates of those switches, but I couldn't find a way to even remove that cover without damaging it. How do you remove that panel without breaking it?
Also, before I messed with it, the roof's motor still made noise when I pushed the button in the open position (it just didn't make noise when pushed in the closed direction). Now, since I tinkered with it, the roof's motor is not making any noise at all !!!
Do I need to head straight to the dealer's over-priced repair services, or does anyone have sound and simple advice for a novice?
I have a problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan. It all started with a car wash. The vehicle went dead and refuesed to start. After trying for couple of minutes it started and four lights, AC, Ventilation and other two for wipers constantly blink for about 15 minutes and automatically stop. Everything else seems to work fine and even the AC and the Wipers work normally. Can anybody tell me what could be wrong? Is this a major problem or something, which is easy to fix. Thanks in advance for your help.
these 2 places give wiring diagrams and other info. the one called the12volt you have to sign up for but its free just takes a couple minutes
thanks for reporting back and sharing that info!!
Shifty the Host
Did a visual check on the fuses located within the fuse panel at driver left knee . Fuses looked AOK . Verified 12v at each fuse with 12v test light . Which of the 24 fuses should control power door locks ? The chart within the fuse panel did not specify .
Looking for electrical common component to troubleshoot .
Is there a relay somewhere ?
Electrical schematics anywhere ?
Guidance ?
Where do I begin???
Thanks!!
Don
it has a lot of info on wiring diagrams and if they don't have it, maybe they might know who would. Hope this helps.
Have you gotten any other responses about this? What does the dealer say?
:mad:
backup, turn signals, brake lights okay electric windows work a\c blower motor but no cold air works electric rearview windows work
came home from work,parked it went to get back in it in the morning and nada
2002 jeep liberty ty
Here are the 2 problems:
1) The doors light - lights inside the car that goes on when you open the door doesn't work. (little problem)
2) My brake lights don't work. The windows brake light is as bright as a new car but the regular brake lights don't work. At night, you can see my tail lights a little bit, but when I hit the brake, even they die out. On releasing the brake pedal, the tail lights (albeit dim) come back on.
Where shud I start looking ?
Thanks in advance.
Edmunds is a well-traveled and well-monitored board. We won't neglect you :P
You could also check for a bad battery ground strap or engine to frame ground strap issue.
Thanks!
Eric
But patient diagnostics, step by step, to isolate the problem, is the key. You could have randomly swapped out every part of that car and not fixed it.
Should a jump start from AAA and driving the car around for an hour bring it back or should I have the car towed to the dealer? I've heard that the alternator cannot recharge a fully drained battery and that the engine computers lose settings that the dealer needs to reprogram if the battery is drained for an extended period of time.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what needs to be done? My son wants to use this for his learners permit, so I have to get it working again.
Thanks in advance,
DB
I discharged my battery last week. 1st sign: radio goes off when starting the fan(or other accessories). I stopped the car and was not able to start again (my battery was dead and probably my alternator too! ) So I boosted my car... It work (than I tought I had a good alternator... and big current leak). I went to the shop to verify and charge the battery... It was good (I was supprised a bit). I re-installed it and of course the car started. (It had to be a leak!) I disconnected everything that was installed after I bought the car.
3 days later I experienced the same "1st sign". I took off the battery and charged it at home. Fully charged, I re-installed it. The car started (I thought it was the alternator that was dead). I took the voltage without the key in: 12,86V. With the key in but just before the ignition: 12,77V (so far it was good!) I started the car and the voltage increased to exactly 14,00V. ... very confused now... The alternator seems to work perfectly.
Is it possible that an alternator gives voltage without giving current? (cause 14V should prevent the battery to go too low)
Is the diode bridge is part of the alternator or is it a independent part?
Thx 4 all!
Yanos3000
Has the battery been 'load tested'? Not just re-charged, but a heavy load placed on it to see if it has capacity to put out a large charge for some time. It may recharge enough for you to get a few starts out of it, but is not really in good enough condition to recharge significantly and put out a lot of current.
Or, you have a short that is discharging the battery when the car is not running. You said 'I disconnected everything that was installed after I bought the car.' This indicates someone has been cutting into the electrical system, putting in that big radio, amp and speakers, Yes? Someone that did not know what they were doing. Now you are going to have to find that short and fix it, or the car will continue to eat the battery.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for the help...
I own a 99 Toyota Celica GT with 80,000 miles on it.
On Sunday it wouldnt start. I consulted a few people (only one of them being a mechanic) and they all seemed to think it was the starter. I tried jumping it, just to make sure it wasnt the battery and it still wouldnt start.
So yesterday my boyfriend put the new starter in, and of course, it didnt work! It turned out that it was not the starter.
He decided to make sure it wasnt the battery, so we hooked it up to his car for 15 or so minutes... and my car actually started. He needed to rev the engine a bit, and a bunch of black smoke came out of the exhaust.
Surprisingly, it still started this morning, too. So I drove my car to return the starter, and when I got home my car was smoking! I opened up the hood and it looked like it was coming out near the engine coolant thing.
I was hoping someone might know what the problem is. Ive heard battery, alternator, fuel something.... but this new smoking thing makes it seem like a worse problem.
Please help me!!
knowing what was done in the installation of the new starter. (Good luck
trying to return the starter. Electrical parts are not usually returnable.) The
smoke could be from a throughly "flooded" engine and might clear up.
Also, the playing around - push starting, etc. - could have caused the
timing to jump.