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None of my gauges (speedometer, tacometer, gas, oil, engine temp) are working at all on my 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L SE (150K miles). I washed in self wash and afterwards it stalled out and would not turn over. After letting it sit for about 9 hours it restarted but now the gauges are dead. Most other electrical (other than radio) seem to be working fine. Any thoughts?
I've tried replacing fuses but with no luck.
Thanks,
I think that I might have had some type of overload and that caused those two problems.
My question is, does this vechile have an in-line circuit breaker? So far, the problem has not returned. Any help would be appreciated.
Any ideas? :confuse:
Check that there is nothing caught in the rails under the seat, jamming it.
(Someone posted a funny story about the used condom.....)
If these are ok, it could be a switch or wiring problem.
But power seats usually have at least 2, usually 3, or more, motors and cables under the seat. So it could be a motor or cable problem.
Electrical problems mean using schemetics or diagnoistic testing steps as outlined in a service manual. Which means having a voltmeter and at least accessing connectors, probably under the seats.
Are you able to do these things?
The security switch seems to be stuck in the depressed position. OK...so I'm an idiot, because I tried prying off that overhead plate cover so I could get a good look at the wiring and at the housing plates of those switches, but I couldn't find a way to even remove that cover without damaging it. How do you remove that panel without breaking it?
Also, before I messed with it, the roof's motor still made noise when I pushed the button in the open position (it just didn't make noise when pushed in the closed direction). Now, since I tinkered with it, the roof's motor is not making any noise at all !!!
Do I need to head straight to the dealer's over-priced repair services, or does anyone have sound and simple advice for a novice?
I have a problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan. It all started with a car wash. The vehicle went dead and refuesed to start. After trying for couple of minutes it started and four lights, AC, Ventilation and other two for wipers constantly blink for about 15 minutes and automatically stop. Everything else seems to work fine and even the AC and the Wipers work normally. Can anybody tell me what could be wrong? Is this a major problem or something, which is easy to fix. Thanks in advance for your help.
these 2 places give wiring diagrams and other info. the one called the12volt you have to sign up for but its free just takes a couple minutes
thanks for reporting back and sharing that info!!
Shifty the Host
Did a visual check on the fuses located within the fuse panel at driver left knee . Fuses looked AOK . Verified 12v at each fuse with 12v test light . Which of the 24 fuses should control power door locks ? The chart within the fuse panel did not specify .
Looking for electrical common component to troubleshoot .
Is there a relay somewhere ?
Electrical schematics anywhere ?
Guidance ?
Where do I begin???
Thanks!!
Don
it has a lot of info on wiring diagrams and if they don't have it, maybe they might know who would. Hope this helps.
Have you gotten any other responses about this? What does the dealer say?
:mad:
backup, turn signals, brake lights okay electric windows work a\c blower motor but no cold air works electric rearview windows work
came home from work,parked it went to get back in it in the morning and nada
2002 jeep liberty ty
Here are the 2 problems:
1) The doors light - lights inside the car that goes on when you open the door doesn't work. (little problem)
2) My brake lights don't work. The windows brake light is as bright as a new car but the regular brake lights don't work. At night, you can see my tail lights a little bit, but when I hit the brake, even they die out. On releasing the brake pedal, the tail lights (albeit dim) come back on.
Where shud I start looking ?
Thanks in advance.
Edmunds is a well-traveled and well-monitored board. We won't neglect you :P
You could also check for a bad battery ground strap or engine to frame ground strap issue.
Thanks!
Eric
But patient diagnostics, step by step, to isolate the problem, is the key. You could have randomly swapped out every part of that car and not fixed it.
Should a jump start from AAA and driving the car around for an hour bring it back or should I have the car towed to the dealer? I've heard that the alternator cannot recharge a fully drained battery and that the engine computers lose settings that the dealer needs to reprogram if the battery is drained for an extended period of time.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what needs to be done? My son wants to use this for his learners permit, so I have to get it working again.
Thanks in advance,
DB
I discharged my battery last week. 1st sign: radio goes off when starting the fan(or other accessories). I stopped the car and was not able to start again (my battery was dead and probably my alternator too! ) So I boosted my car... It work (than I tought I had a good alternator... and big current leak). I went to the shop to verify and charge the battery... It was good (I was supprised a bit). I re-installed it and of course the car started. (It had to be a leak!) I disconnected everything that was installed after I bought the car.
3 days later I experienced the same "1st sign". I took off the battery and charged it at home. Fully charged, I re-installed it. The car started (I thought it was the alternator that was dead). I took the voltage without the key in: 12,86V. With the key in but just before the ignition: 12,77V (so far it was good!) I started the car and the voltage increased to exactly 14,00V. ... very confused now... The alternator seems to work perfectly.
Is it possible that an alternator gives voltage without giving current? (cause 14V should prevent the battery to go too low)
Is the diode bridge is part of the alternator or is it a independent part?
Thx 4 all!
Yanos3000
Has the battery been 'load tested'? Not just re-charged, but a heavy load placed on it to see if it has capacity to put out a large charge for some time. It may recharge enough for you to get a few starts out of it, but is not really in good enough condition to recharge significantly and put out a lot of current.
Or, you have a short that is discharging the battery when the car is not running. You said 'I disconnected everything that was installed after I bought the car.' This indicates someone has been cutting into the electrical system, putting in that big radio, amp and speakers, Yes? Someone that did not know what they were doing. Now you are going to have to find that short and fix it, or the car will continue to eat the battery.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for the help...
I own a 99 Toyota Celica GT with 80,000 miles on it.
On Sunday it wouldnt start. I consulted a few people (only one of them being a mechanic) and they all seemed to think it was the starter. I tried jumping it, just to make sure it wasnt the battery and it still wouldnt start.
So yesterday my boyfriend put the new starter in, and of course, it didnt work! It turned out that it was not the starter.
He decided to make sure it wasnt the battery, so we hooked it up to his car for 15 or so minutes... and my car actually started. He needed to rev the engine a bit, and a bunch of black smoke came out of the exhaust.
Surprisingly, it still started this morning, too. So I drove my car to return the starter, and when I got home my car was smoking! I opened up the hood and it looked like it was coming out near the engine coolant thing.
I was hoping someone might know what the problem is. Ive heard battery, alternator, fuel something.... but this new smoking thing makes it seem like a worse problem.
Please help me!!
knowing what was done in the installation of the new starter. (Good luck
trying to return the starter. Electrical parts are not usually returnable.) The
smoke could be from a throughly "flooded" engine and might clear up.
Also, the playing around - push starting, etc. - could have caused the
timing to jump.