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I am a first time member and need a little help with my 1999 Coupe. The car has been with my family since it was purchase back in May 1999 (meaning only one owner). The car currently have 93,235 miles, and it gets its regular oil change and maintenance on the schedule due date or mileage requirement.
The Problem :
Since the mid - end of last year (2005) I have been having problems with the car shutting off on me and then taking a few minutes before it starts up back again. First, the problem was extremely intermittent - meaning the car would shut off and once it started again it wouldn't shut off until 2-3 weeks later, sometimes a month or two would pass. Then all of a sudden it started doing it a little more frequent.
Since the beginning of this year (2006) it started shutting off on me every other day in the first week of January (on 1/3/06, 1/5/06, 1/7/06), usually when it shuts off it is when I have come to a complete stop at a light or a stop sign. But, then, on 1/14/06 at 6:53pm I was actually driving on a local street and the car just gradually slowed down until it stopped right in the middle of the street, I waited a few minutes and the car started and was fine. On 1/22/06 it shuts off on me 4 times, it shut off again on 1/24/06, 1/26/06 four times. On 1/31/06, 2/1/06 four times, 2/4/06 two times and today 2/5/06 three times.
Today, like some of the days, the car would shut off and then when I wait a few minutes (usually 2 minutes) it would start and then on other days I could wait five minutes and more and it wouldn't start, the car wouldn't turn over.
Furthermore, I notice that when I try to start the car once it shuts off and it doesn't start, the key light will flash.
:mad: Things I've done:
I have visited the dealership (same dealership the car was purchase from almost seven years ago) numerous times regarding this problem and they can't locate the problem; they have done numerous diagnose testing and nothing register on the test, nor does the computer stores any codes indicating a problem. They almost always cannot have the car duplicate the problem; on one visit did the car duplicate the problem, but it immediately started and they couldn't duplicate it again.
I know that it is not my starter because I had the starter changed 4 months ago, the mounts changed almost 2 months ago, and the alternator was changed 1.5 - 2 years ago. I have had a transmission flush, tune-up, the whole works for the car, but can't find the problem.
The problem is extremely frustrating to me and it is making the car unreliable in my opinion. No one can tell me what is the cause of the problem or why it is occurring. I can only get people spectate on what they might think is the problem, nothing for sure. I taught the dealer would know, but they can't find it.
:confuse: Weird Facts About the Car :
What is so weird is that the car wouldn't shut off when it is at the dealer, they have kept it overnight once and had one of the technician drive it home and it never acts up. Also, I tend to notice that the car would jump excessive when moving down gears (like it would do if the mounts are bad - but for me worst than when my actual mounts were bad) and then later after driving off it shuts off. But, on a regular when it is having one of its normal days, there isn't any jumping when moving down gear. It just happens usually happens when it will shut off within 10 mins of starting and diving, or when it re-starts from shutting off and is going to shut off again. The car have never (not that which I can recall) shuts off after starting from a cold start. Sometimes I smell gas after the car shuts off and it re-starts again (this has happened three times so far) which is also weird to me!
Also, since recently starting on 1/22/06 when it shuts off and I go to restart it won't start, and when it does start, it immediately shuts off again, & I have to wait a few more minutes before it will start & I'm able to drive off. This happen on 1/22/06, 1/26/06, 2/1/06, 2/4/06, & today (2/5/06).
Is there anyone out there who has or is having the same problem has me and if you had this problem what is the cause and how can I fix the problem for good!!
Can someone please tell me what is wrong with the STUPID POSSESS car, Please!! :sick:
I will appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
P.S. The car ignition switch had a recall and the dealer changed it in September 2004
Can anyone advise what is wrong please?
The occasional airbag light is related to the remote start unit that recently started acting up. It starts and runs the vehicle fine, but occasionally it doesn't turn on the accessories (heat or a/c) and at the same time the airbag light is lit. Once I disable the remote start unit (hit the brake) the airbag light goes off. May or may not be related? (I had the speedometer problem before I had the remote start problem)
My first thought would be the fuel pump becoming intermittent.
There's another possibility. Quite often there's a relay between the ignition and the starter solenoid so the ignition switch doesn't have to switch all the current that the soleniod needs to operate the starter. It could be intermittent also.
reading and could come across anyone with the same problem im haveing but
you where the closest. I tried instuling a car sterio and i didnt
work , the power wouldnt come on the unit when everything was wired
correctly . so i figured that this wasnt going to work .I put back the
original one and now my dash lights and my keyless lock and unlock
flashing lights are not comingon and now also the service vechlie soon
light is on too now so,
but everything else is working fine .. what did i do wrong and
how can i fix this do you know plz help me i dont want to give
my arm and lag to the dealer
If you can give me some solution or give me some idea i would
really be greatful ty and by the way I have a 2004 alero
I love car dealers: Honda Emissions Service Update - do they just change a bunch of parts that are probably still good?
Having oil around the spark plugs shouldn't be a factor. It probably means that the valve cover is leaking (not surprising on a 10 year old car). Oil is seeping out and running down to the plugs.
Can't do much over the net, but if it was me this is what I would do:
Carry a voltmeter in the car. The next time it happens I would immediately check the voltage on the battery. The at rest voltage should be 12.6VDC (or close to it). The fact that you can hear the fuel pump run, and you can hear the starter "click" implies that power is getting where it needs to go. The click you hear, as long as it is coming from the starter, is the solenoid engaging the starter gear, and at the same time it closes a set of heavy contacts inside the starter to turn the starter motor.
If the battery voltage is good, I would check the main supply cable from the battery to the starter. It's not the same as the wire going to the solenoid, which is smaller. I would look for corrosion or bad connections.
If the voltage is low, then it means that the battery is bad, or that it's not being charged when the engine is running, or that there is a draw from the battery when the car is shut off. This could be as simple as a light being left on or a trunk or glove box light staying on when it should be off. It could be more serious like a module drawing current when the car is off.
Sorry I can't be more helpful. Problems like this can be very difficult to find.
I have not looked at the starter connection,as it's very tight down there.I think the lights should work even if there are starter or alternators issues-?I looked for an inline fuse but could not see any near the top.
I hate to take this to a shop,without having some idea of what is causing the problem.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Some fusible links are only special lengths of wire and must be cut out and spliced in again with new ones; other links are plug-ins.
5 mins later it happens again, this time the heat seats stop working. Another few mins pass it happens again and the dash map, radio, clock, trip odometer and other components stop. Within 20 mins of this I was down to only headlights working no turn signals, no highbeams, no fog lights, no interior lights when I opened the door. I turned the car off, restarted it immediately and all was normal - for 4 months.
Yesterday it happened again. 3 hours into highway driving with everything on - boom. "What did you hit?" asked my husband. Nothing the car is electrical failures started again. I got to the nearest exit as it learched again - and turned it off. It is like everything just stops for a split second even the engine. I waited 10 mins to stop shaking - and all is fine again. Drove 8 hours straight with no issues.
The Dealer found a faulty "rear module" and a low battery the first time based on some codes. This last time they said there were no codes and could see no sign of any "issue". Any thoughts?
Thanks
Can someone tell me what is up and whether I can fix it myself?
Thanks,
jb
the first thing you could try, and should try would be the following: have one person start the car in park. you open each door one at a time and manually depress the plunger of each switch a few times and ask the person in the driver's seat if the door ajar light goes out and comes back on when you activate the switch with your finger. do this also for the tailgate.
if the light goes out and comes back on as you activate the switch a few times, then that switch isn't mechanically activating when that door is closed, and it may be adjustable or it may not. but you've isolated the problem.
if the light doesn't go out, close that door and proceed to the next door (and eventually the tailgate).
follow?
let's assume that by doing this on every door and the tailgate that the person in the front seat doesn't see a change in the door ajar light, now you have to do some more work (if you are capable and willing), because you probably have a bad switch or wiring to one of the switches.
i'd remove each switch (one at a time) and check that their continuity changes state when the plunger is pushed in, and allowed to pop back out. perhaps by pulling one of the switches, you find a wire connector that has fallen off the switch itself. ureka! confirm using the method above.
to verify the operation of the switch, i'd disconnect the switch and use a volt/ohm/ammeter (in the ohm or resistance measuring mode). you can purchase one at radio-shack, home depot or lowes. they should be about 12 to 19 dollars. a cheap but powerful tool.
hopefully it is a switch which is faulty that you can replace. if not - if all the switches check out fine, then it's possible you have a broken wire somewhere between one of the switches back to the wire harness where they come together (probably somewhere behind the dash).
it's possible that a wire has fallen off or out of it's connector, i.e. vibrated free from the connector (either at one of the switches, or at the harness where the wires come together).
perhaps a wiring diagram of your vehicle would aid you in your diagnosis. google it. you could probably find one in one of the service manuals available at a car parts store.
if the simple check didn't find the problem, i'd be looking for a problem at the wiring harness i guess. if that wasn't it, then i'd proceed to the individual switch removal and test.
do the simple checking first and maybe you'll get lucky.
if not, you'll have to decide if you want to do the additional diagnosis yourself or maybe have an independent quote you the cost to do the harder diagnosis for you.
may you be lucky.
any ideas?
jb
You did check to see if the belt running the alternator wasn't too loose or too tight.
I'd check that the oil level isn't too high (way above the top mark).
I'd check my engine air filter because if it's clogged you can be running rich. Remember, an engine is a big pump - an air breather.
Could be a marginal O2 sensor resulting in a too rich mixture as well, or MAF sensor which is bad.
A vehicle with a clogging cat convertor will exhibit problems going up hills, but the cause could be many.
Sorry I can't add more.
so here are my questions:
1- familiarity with electrical drainage in this vehicle?
2- prices. prices on what it costs a dealership to buy a brand new mb battery [if that even makes a difference], price on what it would cost me. price on repair. the mb speialist of beverly hills who came to jump start my car both times my "luxury dealership" was low on staff and couldnt help me, told me about my refurbished battery, told me there is something draining my battery life and it could have to do with the electric console thing on the interior roof or possibly the motorized seats. told me if i decide to go independant of the dealership ill be paying a lot per hour and theres no definite time for them to figure out the issue- could take 5 minutes or 5 days. and then id have to pay for labour and parts for them to fix once its found. thats ridiculous considering i just bought the car 30 days ago!! i just think my dealership is only in it for a quick and easy fix. putting a bandaid on a car they really know nothing about.
and non-related- i wanted to know how often i should get my oil changed and what the cost is for that as well. is it best to go to mb specialists for the service/oil change? if i did that $20 jiffy lube thing would that ruin the car?
and lastly, just to clarify- im using 91 gas at the 76 station. it eats my gas up pretty quickly. i dont know the lingo for it but my gas lasts me about a week when i fill up the tank [which costs me about $46 to do] and im driving about 20 miles per day on the street. i couldnt give you an actual amount because i have never had the car in my possession for a full week! its always at the dealership getting "bandaged"!!