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Also, still don't know what component could "reset" after everything goes dead - I understand fuses and fusable links, but I am unaware of anything that works like an automatically resetting breaker.
I will put getting the alternator checked out on the list of suspects, thanks!
Something is shorted out in there. This overloads the headlight circuit and trips a circuit breaker.
Turning the ignition off and then back on resets the breaker and things work for a while.
Once you are sure that your main power is good (if that isn't your problem), then you can start to isolate further by checking the voltages when it fails. The good thing (now that you are home), is that it apparantely is very easy to recreate the problem by turning things on....so you'll have an easier time in troubleshooting.
Keep us posted, as to what you find.
When you say the left turn signal was "stuck (left on)".....do you mean that the turn signal level was turned on and it didn't reset to neutral when you turned the wheel back, or do you mean the lever reset to neutral postion and the left turn signal light kept flashing, or do you mean the lever reset to netural position and the left turn signal was ON, but not flashing?
And how does "Few other lights were also off" tie to the previous statement, because the previous statement was talking about lights being ON, not OFF. Confused by what you are trying to indicate.
On your last statement about "all" rear lights. Are you referring to just the lights that come on when you turn on your headlights, or are you also referring to your brake lights, your turn signal lights, and your reverse lights as well.
If you have a volt meter, you can verify that there is voltage at the socket. If you have voltage, bulb is bad. If you have no voltage, then a fuse or relay is bad.
If you don't have a volt meter, replace the bulb(easiest to do), or swap it with the other headlight bulb (doubles the work).
I don't have any electrical schematics for your vehicle, however with that many items out I would look for a larger 'upstream' fuse or fuseable link from the smaller fuses. Look to see if your manual calls out a fuseable link (either in the cabin, or engine compartment).
You may have to find a set of schematics or service manual for your vehicle, if no one else chimes in to help.
I'd look first at any fusable links or larger upstream fuses, as you can visually inspect them to see if they are okay. If you don't see anything blown, you can try wiggling the key to see if any change in symptoms. Beyond that, get a set of schematics or take it to a shop where they have online manuals they can look up.
Edit....Actually in re-reading your orig note, you say your brake lights and door locks don't work. The brake lights are definitely not related to the ignition switch and would be powered all the time, and door locks as well (or else you'd never be able to remotely open the doors). Back to looking for an upstream fusable link or large fuse.
Traced it after I got a factory wiring diagram and saw that all of the failing circuits (horn, cig lighter, tail lights, dome lights) were fed via this circuit.
KJ
This is the original battery. Could there be an internal battery problem that would cause this. If so, why would an external jump start "fix" the problem?
And, when the switch went out, it would not disengage the cruise.
Get in the vehicle, have someone watch the brake lights and push on the brake pedal. If you don't have brake lights, the switch is probably bad.
On one of the failures, a Sheriff followed me home and just told me about not having brake lights. No ticket, just told me.
No Explaination except it must have been corrosion in the connection.
Thank you for your help!!!
Therefore, have the 'codes pulled' and see what the computer is 'seeing' as an invalid value from some sensor, etc.
After market parts sales places (Autozone, etc) will usually 'pull the codes' for free.
This will at least give you some idea of what might be happening.
is it doing it repeatedly? it's better if it is.
if you could get another battery and throw it in there and do a test. maybe the battery isn't filtering the change in voltage the over-all system is experiencing when the engine is turned off. you know a voltage transient causing the power-lock or alarm modules to go into reset or something like that.
possibly the voltage regulation (diode assembly) on the alternator.
possibly a loose connection or ignition switch issue.
i'm just a car owner like you, but i guess this is where i'd start. maybe someone else will have a better idea or some other things to check.
Any ideas???
Somethings not right with their installation...take it back to them to fix....it's a reputable shop so they shouldn't have any problem.
if so, it sounds like there's a problem with the radio or amp, and putting the faceplate on, energizes the radio, and something sinks a boat-load of current (really surprised a fuse isn't blowing if the voltage is being dragged down).
suggest you bring it back to the installers.
2)Now we hear about after market remote starter.
(Personally, I would never, never put a remote starter into a vehicle.)
Both of the above involve significant cutting into and addition of wiring and modules. By 2000 models, even something like a stock GM radio (mainly speaking from what I've read about Cadillacs) is closely intergrated with the main 'serial port' that handles the communication between and among the multiple 'control modules' (computers) in a modern auto. These include modules for motor, transmission, body, security, etc. And, you've replace the radio with an aftermarket one....
So - you may have some strange electrical problem related to a wiring failure, or a failure of the radio or remote starter module...
Another possibility. The symptoms of dying and then not restarting (but restarting later), and not setting a check engine code - this is strongly indicative of Crank Sensor failure. And, for Cadillacs, they had a lot of these failures in model year 2000 (and you have a GM vehicle which probably uses the same components). The can be one or two of these sensors. They are rather easily accessed, and are not too expensive, about $60 or so. I would consider just having the crank sensor/s replaced, and seeing if this solves the problem. I would also use GM parts, not aftermarket ones for something critical like these sensors.
Good luck. For intermittent electrical failures, you usually need luck.
Another possibility (that doesn't really seem to fit) would be that the stereo subwoofer was installed with some big capacitors that were wired poorly - that can cause weird problems.
it could be you have serious nasties in the bottom of the tank (water?).
you could have an intermittent fuel pump, or connection to same.
Well, it took me a few weeks to track down a used piece of window glass, so the car sat for awhile. During this time, the battery would not hold a charge. It tested fine at Autozone, so my assumption was that something was draining the battery. Since I installed the new window glass, I haven't had any more battery problems. But, I now have some issues with my stereo.
When driving to work on the highway, occasionally, my stereo will turn completely off, then back on again. After this, all of my guages go haywire. The needles all drop down to zero, but not very smoothly - they jump alot on their way down. Because the gas guage is now reading empty, my gas light comes on, as well as all the other lights that would come on it the car had stalled - only the car is still running and driving along at highway speed. After a couple of seconds, the guages raise back up to the correct readings. This happens sometimes two or three times on my way to work, but does not happen every day.
Is it possible that some wiring in the door got damaged during the breaking of my window? Or, is it possible that electrical damage was done to my stereo? My biggest question is, could electrical damage to the stereo cause the guages to go crazy? Or am I looking at a much bigger problem, like an alternator? This is an aftermarket stereo, with a removable faceplate.