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So if you put a voltmeter +red lead on the + side of the battery terminal, and a -black lead on the - battery terminal, you should see the 13 volts. The - cable runs from the battery to probably your engine block. So if you moved the -voltmeter lead over to the engine block...you should still see the same 13 volts.
Corrosion in a cable, will show up as a higher resistance to the cable than normal. Voltage = I(current) x R (resistance).... so if you have any additional 'R', when there is a current draw thru that resistance, you will have a voltage drop. So if you ran your headlights (so there is a current draw thru the circuitry), and you metered your battery and it showed 13.4 volts, and then you moved your -lead from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block and the voltage read dropped to 12.0 volts, then that would be because of extra resistance in the negative ground cable.
Great care needs to be taken if you are not familiar with electricity, to not short out the battery....as it is capable of delivering a very high current.
Was the corrosion at the battery end, the starter end, or did you just replace the cable?
The dealers mechanics are not trained for electrical trouble shooting. They basically do not want to touch this vehicle.
Since it is still under warranty keep driving it until it catches on fire. Pull to the side of the road, briskly exit the vehicle, and then move at least 100 feet way in case of explosion.
Collect your insurance. You do have insurance, right? And 'gap' insurance if you are upside down on the value of the vehicle?
In the meantime, if anyone else has an opinion of flashing the engine ecu, in case the wires aren't melted (like I could get someone to troubleshoot that) let me know.
Bolivar, this is not discounting what you said, just looking to see if someone else has experience with this. Thanks for your forthright info.
he stated the radio was "so weak that it was if it had almost no power going to it",
What is weak? The voltage going to it? The sound? The reception? If it is the voltage, then how weak is the voltage? And if the voltage is "weak", then that is a clear indication of a problem and will at least give you a starting point.
What was the voltage through out the entire fues panel?
I mean, come on, that is first year apprenticeship stuff.
Find where the power drops off and go from there.
This shouldn't be that difficult to isolate, just not sure why any of the shops are getting in deep enough to figure it out. My suspicion is the accessory relay, then key switch, then a connector in the wiring....but only a meter and some digging in will show for sure.
Here's a couple options to try, since you can't seem to find a competent technician
- Take it to a Toyota dealership in larger metro area
- Perhaps check if there is a local college or tech school where they teach electrical enginerring. Talk to the instructor to see if he/she would be willing to take a look at it as a lab project to help the students diagnose the problem. They should certainly be able to do the things I sent earlier via email. Have them obviously stop short of tearing the dash or wiring apart. You have access to the schematics which is a huge help.
- Throw some parts at it. I don't normally do this until proving what is wrong, but given that you are considering some drastic measures it might be worth doing this. Replace the accessory relay, it's the last of the 4 items in the circuit as identified in previous email. This is an item that could be pulled and metered/tested with basic electrical skills, but worst case you could just try replacing it. Not sure what a replacement relay would cost for that vehicle.
also, can someone please explain in simple terms what you meant by the comment on the radio sounding as if it has little power. does that mean it works, and yet the volume it generates in the speakers is low?
and is that the only thing that isn't working properly at this point?
right hand page
The coloring is mine (and a little sloppy), which highlights the circuit in question. Robin reports that there is 13.3 volts at the battery, but 12 volts at the cigarette lighter. Circuit is the battery, thru a 140 fusible link, thru a 40 amp fused link, thru the ignition switch, thru an accessory relay, and then to the cigarette lighter (has the low voltage). That line also picks a relay which turns on the power accessory outlets. Circuit starts on the left page, runs over to the right page, and then back to the left page. Open two windows, and put them next to each other.
This should be a very easy circuit for a technician to troubleshoot.
Which audio system do you have?
- Navigation and Audio System (Access/Standard Cab)
- Navigation and Audio System with RSES (Double Cab)
- Navigation and Audio Ssytem w/8 speaker (Double Cab)
- Audio system for separate amplifier (Access/Standard Cab)
- Audio system for built-in amplifier (Access/Standard Cab)
- Audio system with RSES (Double Cab)
- Audio system w/8 speaker (Double Cab)
- Audio system w/6 speaker (Double Cab)
Looking at a couple of the radio system schematics, they appear to have 3 power feeds to your radio. Rad#1, Rad#2, and Rad#3. If you look closely at the schematic right beneath the cigarette lighter fuse, you will see Rad#2 fed off of that same suspect circuit. So my bet is you have low voltage on your radio as well, which is why you can't get any significant volume from it.
If you give me the radio specifics, I'll verify.
one thing worth considering... it's possible to incurr local heating on the contacts of the acc relay. i personally doubt the relay contacts can handle 7.5 Amps, but assuming they could, and the circuit was pulling a lot of current, it's possible the relay contacts burned / experienced mechanical deformation. if so, it's likely there is now a voltage drop there as well. maybe this explains the voltage difference from the battery to the acc recepticle.
i like your theory w.r.t. the radio being low output. it's possible one voltage feed is for clock / tuning / pre-amp and other functions, and one is for amp power. so maybe there is a blown fuse there.
Looks like on the double cab, this relay might be behind the kickpanel on the left, hard to tell. On the standard cab the relay is up under the dash.
AccCut Relay Location
But both of your back brake lights work, and both of your back parking lights work, and both of the rear blinkers work? Are the back blinkers, blinking very slow?
It's suspicious that your back blinkers are working correctly if the fronts are out, if that is really the case. It's also suspicious that you have lost all of the lights in the front, even though some of them would be on the same circuit as the backs. Have you looked at your fuses to see if any are blown?
So as previously noted in the marked up schematics, a low voltage on the cigarette lighter circuit, would also effect the radio thru one of those 3 power feeds.
You're probably headed down the path where a tow to the dealer is required to fix.
All the lamps are burning. I replaced the lamps thinking that it might be a problem with a lamp. All three new lamps still flash at a faster rate. I have removed and re-attached the plugs to the three locations thinking it may be a corroded or dirty connection. Still no luck. Some have said this may be a flasher problem, but why would the left side and emergency flashers operate correctly if the flasher is bad?
I have checked grounds, but can not find any open ground on the lamp holders.
I am concerned that wiring check will be unproductive since the same lights work properly when the emergency flashers are operating.
Any help would be appreciated. I would like to troubleshoot this myself if possible. Suggestions?
Had you replaced the bulbs before this started?
Easiest test is to get a new bulb and replace each of the side bulbs that are flashing faster and see if it cures the problem.
If the wrong bulb is in there, it will cause that symptom.
Not likely it is a flasher problem, as it would affect both sides.
It is a good possibility that one of the grounds isn't good.
Are all the bulbs duel element? Meaning they operate the running/tail lights too?
If so, try this. Turn on the headlights and turn the signals on the side that flashes fast. When the other lights flash on, do one of them go out? If so, that is the problem circuit.
You need to remember that the front bulbs turn signal, are on the same circuit as the back. So the problem can be a bulb in the front, affecting the bulb in the back.
Focus on the two bulbs on the right side (front and back), and since you've replaced the right rear start with the right front.
The bulbs have not been replaced before this. I have tried replacing all of the lamps on the right side as you suggest, but this did not help.
The lamps are not dual element, the brakes, turn signals, and running lights are all separate. The front signal lamp is dual element, but only one filament burns for signalling.
I have checked the grounding both with the lamp in the holder and the lamp holder alone. The front measures 1.6 ohms to the negative battery terminal, the mid side light measures 1.1 ohms to the negative battery terminal, and the rear lamp measures 1.4 ohms to the negative side of a power outlet in the trunk.
Front is a dual element, although I believe only one is used for the turn signal process that I can see. The side and rear lamps are single element and do not indicate running, or brake lights.
I have checked ground as well and can not find an open ground at the lamps or lamp holders.
Then turn off the parking lights, turn on the right turn signal, and look at the filaments again. You should only see the brighter higher wattage filament.
It is also possible, that the side marker bulb is bad. If that is lighting, but drawing toooo much current, that would have the same effect. Take that bulb out, and see if the fast flashing stops.
When I turn off the running lamps and turn on the right signal, the brigher of the two flashes, yet still faster than the left.
I removed the side marker lamp from the holder and still the flashing is fast on the right side.
I believe you say you replaced the lamps on the right. Is there any chance that you have a wrong type of bulb in than the car calls for? One diagnostic thing you could do to prove it is not the bulbs, is to switch the right bulbs to the left, and the left to the right. If the problem moves to the left, then you have proved that one of the bulbs in the problem. If the problem stays on the right, then you have proved that it is definitely not the bulbs.
Beyond that, you might have to get a set of electrical schematics. I just checked HelmINC who have cheap access charges for online service manuals, but they don't have VW's. Not sure where you'd go to find a set.
Most cars only have one flasher that is used for both the right and left. I don't know if that is the case with a Jetta as well. Can you find the flasher, and is there only one? If there are two, and they are the same part number, can you swap them to see if the problem moves?
During today's replacement that you suggested, I noticed that the right rear lamp that I replaced was not the same size as the left side lamp that was flashing correctly. The base fit correctly, but the globe was a different size.
One explanation could be that the previous owner replaced the right rear lamp with something on hand and either did not notice the flasher speed change, or did not care and left it as it was.
What is not clear to me is why the different lamp would not work correctly on the right side and would work correctly on the left side.... It seems to me that an incorrect lamp would cause similar problems on whichever side it was installed. Thanks for hanging with me on this.
The bulb was what kia and I were getting at and suspected.
There are electronic flashers available that aren't affected by resistance. They are more a timer flasher.
0patience is on to something, you could have 2 flashers in the vehicle, and one was previously replaced (one being a timer flasher, one being a current sensing flasher). So the problem is actually the combination of a current flasher, with an incorrect bulb. Change the combo, and the problem goes away.
As a side note, timer type flashers are typically used for vehicles that are going to tow things. Adding a trailer with lights changes the current draw, and to avoid blinking fast you need it to be based on time...versus current.
What I would suggest to totally wrap this problem up, is to replace the rear bulb which you suspect is the incorrect one with a new one. Owners manuals typically list the correct bulbs for the vehicle. That way this problem won't come back.
Congrat's on getting this fixed!
Still don't know why a lamp would light up, but possess just the wrong amount of resistance to cause the flasher to flash incorrectly, but this proves it is possible.
When I installed the new lamp on the right, and the correct existing lamp on the left, the flashers all worked at the slower, what I believe to be correct, rate. Thanks to you and 0patience for helping with this.
Any ideas on what is causing this? Any suggestions on how to fix it?
Thanks.
Gideon