Electronic Gremlins - Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

ame529

I recently purchased a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante, while driving the battery and brake indicator flicker on and off(same time), sometimes they stay on for a while, and sometimes seem to turn off when I hit a bump. I have had the car at the dealer twice and they have replaced the alternator twice, and replaced the brake pads, no change. They said everything is running fine, and I have not had any problems with the way the car drives, just the annoying lights. Any suggestions?

99tahoe44

Yes, I did also replaced the ignition switch and now everything works like magic. Upon opening up and examination of the bad switch the contacts showed strong signs of burning. The old switch probably can not be repaired because it falls into a million pieces (springs, contacts) when you open it. I just wanted to make sure this was really the problem. Actually a shame on GM since all contacts were more or less affected. As I bought the E4 and E5 external torx at the Snap-On dealer the dealer new right away what I had on mind. "...Ignition Switch hey?..."-he asked laughing. So this problem must be quite common. Probably even a design flaw.

I always loved American Cars and this 99 Tahoe was always my dream. But it is definately going to be my last Chevy and perhaps even my last American car. America is a great country with lots of skilled people willing to work hard and do good work. But they are lead by narrow minded short sighted moron decision makers. GM stinks from the head. Sorry for the resulting loss of jobs.

By the way thanks for pointing out the issue with the white two-wire switch. That saved me lots of time and possibly even the switch itself. I just kept telling myself to remember to turn it and I found the way it has to go. Quite tricky. Most of my problems arised from disconnecting the switch harness, turn signal harness from the main harness.

Thanks for all of you contributing on the issue. And enjoy the ride...

99tahoe44

Also by the way: It is actually possible to remove the upper shroud without braking it. You have to remove the speedometer/radio/AC cover, you have to pull the height adjustment knob on the lower shroud to remove the lower shroud. Then when you just play enough with the upper shoud it will come off. Just make sure to completly tape off your speedometer so you don't scratch it. I ended up doing it actually twice. It works you just have to play with it. Never the less I just had to buy the lower shroud piece. Previously as I tested the ignition switch (forcing the shroud out of the way without removing it) it must have got slightly out of allignment. So it did not close snug. GM charged me $28 for the lower piece. They told me the upper piece is about the same.

nurseypoo1

help please! my jimmy's rear hatch suddenly started unlocking itself when i shift into drive and sometimes reverse. it doesn't do it all the time, but i'll be driving down the freeway and all of a sudden it will fly open. thought of taking out the fuse, but i'm not sure what else i'll disconnect. any help?

matpar

..I hope im in the right forum..I have a 96 old cutlass that starts everytime in the morning when its cool..then after 2/3 pm...i turn the key and nothing happens. Its been doing this for the last 2/3 summers. My mechanic replaced the ignition switch, and it stopped doing it for a while..and now its back to its old tricks again!! He put it on the computer, said it was fine..he even kept it one day and started it throught the day AND IT WORKED. Then when i get it home..well you get it. I'm thinking i cant be the only onethis has happened to..please..if you have ANY ideas..I'd love to hear them!! thanks!

matpar

cornellpinoy

The next time it doesn't start, tap the starter a few times with a broom stick and see if it starts up afterwards. I had a similar experience with our '94 Cutlass. Turned out to be a bad starter. Hasn't failed to fire up since it was replaced earlier this year.

torievans

Hi Guys, I figured if anyone would have an answer to the problem with my crazy car you guys might.
The problem started about 3 months ago. When I was idling or going below 15 mph the radio and all the electrical things on the car would just go completely dead for only a second. Then they would all just start back up. Sometimes this would happen 5 times in a row and sometimes just once. (The car would never die but it felt like it was about to) It would happen intermittently and never consistently. It would just happen randomly. This went on for a few months and I took it to the dealer. They could not find a problem. And of course it would not happen when they had it. Then about a month ago it would do the same thing but then everything on the dash would flash and a very loud beeping would happen until I would turn the car off. When trying to start it , it would not start. Nothing just dead…no winding no power nothing. After attempting a few times then it would start. Again the dealership could not find the problem. The battery was replaced and home I went. 3 days later it would not start at all. Tried to start it for over 3 hours. Dead Dead Dead. I could not even get the windows up. The tow guy came and he was unable to get the car into neutral the gears where frozen. After about an hour the car then started…then to the dealership it went, where it is now. For the past week and ½ the dealership has had it and they can not find the problem. They have replaced (I think we are up to about 8 parts now) and it still is not fixed. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it will not. Spoke to the dealer today and they drove it yesterday and before they got out of the parking lot it died. The dealer told me it is not the CSP because when those go bad the car at least will wind up. Mine just does nothing. They have went to the Mercedes Tec. Support and they have no records of a similar situation. Any advise would be wonderful. Thank you in advance.

4ducks

Recently, my Intrepid began blowing on high all the time. It even blows on high when you turn the a/c unit off. Any ideas? Maybe a relay or a resistor? Thanks!

In addition to the above, there is also a high pitch noise when driving. Another problem that started is that you have to jiggle the key in order to make to blower start (windows also don't work if blower doesn't come on). Any ideas???? Don't want to spend a fortune at a shop if there is something else I can try!
:confuse:

user777

i think the good bet is a bad blower switch or wiring to it. perhaps there are resistors in there. i don't know. can you get to the thing?

go to a pull-it place and get one. otherwise find out if one is available aftermarket.

dutchee

Help

We are on vacation and all 4 of our windows are down and wont go up. We tried everything fuses and such we have been working on it for 2 days does anyone have any ideas

2002 chey silverado 3500 dually

bodoggy

My backup lights go on when the brake pedal is depressed, but not when the A/T is in R.
To make things worse, whenever have some time to look at it, the backup lights won't go on at all!
HAs anyone reloved this kind of problem. I woiuld appreciate it, would stop everyone from bringing it to my attention at red lights!

islandergirl

I have a 97 Mazda Miata with power windows. The passenger window was hesitating to roll up. Then, one day it just quit rolling up! It's 115 degree's here :shades: and need to get a solution as soon as possible!!
Thanks,
Islandergirl in Lake Havasu City, Arizona :P

burdawg

You most likely need a new window regulator or possibly the drive motor & gears. The only way to know for sure is to take the door panel off and look into it. I would think the regulator is the most likely problem, it usually is on small cars since it's small and somewhat weak. If you can get the door panel off you may be able to push on the bottom of the window and get it to move up when operating the switch. If you do remember there's moving parts in there.
I was at my house in LHC last weekend. I think Saturday was the busiest non-holiday weekend on the lake I've can remember. We went out but came in after a few hours. It was just to rough with all the boat traffic.

islandergirl

Thanks for the suggestions. I have pulled the center console off and it looks like all the connections are good. but I am having a problem finding the fuse panel .
Its not where the owners manual says it should be. I realize its not a fuse issue but I should know where it is for future reference.
It sounds like I should take it to a shop here in LHC. My auto repair skills are not up to par! Do you have any suggestions?
Small world hu? I work on the Island. Been living here almost 5 years! Fun town!!!
Thanks for your help....Can we keep in touch, for future advice?

burdawg

The only place out there I have ever had any work done is at Brake Masters over next to Scotty's Broasted Chicken on El Camino Way. They repaired the A/C on the old Suburban I used to keep out there. That was some time ago though. This type of power window is the same as most other cars though so I don't think you need a special shop.
I think the closest Mazda dealer is Yuma or Las Vegas.
I had a trailer at Islander for years before building a house in 1998. Things sure have changed out there. I don't think they will be happy until it's just like Southern California. Early fall and early spring are still the best times out there.
Feel free to ask for help anytime.

boognishlovin

I've got a problem with the radio resetting itself in my truck. It will be fine for a few days and then reset itself when I start it up. Then the clock is set to 1:00 and all my presets are gone. I don't know if it is a interuption when I turn the truck off or it is when I start it. I can't find any consistancy so far, I've tried driving with the lights on all the time to use more power in case it's a low battery or alternator, but it still is random. It's not going to kill me but I like to keep it running nice so any help would be appreciated. Thanx.

gmoberg

I am unable to locate the "interior relay block" for my 1995 Hyundai Accent Hatchback. Fuses, resistor and the blower motor itself check OK.
Only thing left is the blower relay and I am unable to locate it.

dmitch2

I removed battery and cleaned terminals. When I put it back on, parking lights flash and red light for anti theft flashes and car will not start. Help please
Don

althepal30

Hello fellow toyota lovers/haters. My 92 4x4 v6 pick-up hass poor mileage and low power. i believe it is the smaller of the v6's but it should have more power than it has. When i am accelerating in any gear, i have low power and when i reach about 2700 rpm, my power suddenly increases by about 30% like a switch being turned on, this does not always occur but is obvious when it does, especially in 1st gear.There are no codes, i have replaced the throttle position sensor and tested the mass air box-serviceable. I have considered that the cold start mechanism is faulty. I sure would appreciate any help on this topic. Thanks for reading my question. Al

ripleyiii

I recently posted this to the MB forum.

I have a Mercedes ML500, 2002, and recently the Navigation System has been giving me a little problem. It may not come on when I start up the engine. There is a blank screen. After a while, it finally does come on. So if it doesn't work every time I start up the car, I've learned that if I wait long enough it will.

I had the car in the dealer's for something else. (Problem #3,490...) I asked if they would check the thing out. They did and said, the "ECU" needs to be replaced for $1,200 plus labor. (I later got them to give me the "good guy" price: $1,250 with labor. Whoopee.) The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) was for the Navigation System only. (There are many ECU's throughout the car, I'm told. This I know, because I had to replace the one for the electrics, and it was pretty expensive.) Anyway, it was "slowing burning out," they said and would soon be completely shot. I know very little about electronics, but I don't believe that an electronic control unit slowly burns out. In my experience they either work or they don't work. And when this thing works, it works. It may not come on right away, but when it does, it does.

So I asked if it were some hardware connector or something, and they said no. ECU. Replace. $1,200.

Here are my questions: (1) Where is this ECU? If I replace the entire CD-based Navigation System, does it also replace the ECU? Can I just buy a new navigation box and exchange the unit and all will be well? Or does it live somewhere where only ECU trained mechanics (an oxymoron I believe) know where to find it. (2) Can I buy the newer DVD-based navigation system, replace the old model and thereby fix the problem? Or do I need to replaced this ECU thing no matter what navigation system I have installed. Or.... (3) is this all a scam?

mrjohnny

i couldnt figure out how to post on here this is my first time here so i just clicked what i could lol.My problem is i have an 89 lincon towncar.Its my only car and i have to have it i have 3 small kids.About a month ago the blinkers and ac/heat went out all at once.I stopped at a store got some gas cranked it up and they were working again.The same day i turned it off again when i restarted it they dont work again.They havent worked since then.I replaced every fuse in the fuse panel and looked for burnt wires but i really dont know anything about working on a car.Any help would be great its really dangerous driving with no blinkers not to mention i cant afford a ticket lol
thanx alot in advance
Johnny

bolivar

That's a rather old and a rather complex car, so 'long distance' would just be a wide guess. Even hands on, I'm not sure I would know where to start.

Anyway, if you want to try - this sounds, in general, like a wiring failure of some type. Possible a bad ground.

If you can get to the bulbs and sockets for the signals you need to check all of these. And try to trace the ground side of the wires back, they usually are grounded via a bolt/screw into a frame or other heavy metal part of the car. If one ground is loose, it could shut down all the lights - blinkers do very strange things sometimes.

Of course, the 'multiple switch', called that because there usually are multiple things controlled through it - this is the switch on the 'stalk' you use to turn signals on/off, could be bad. This is pretty tough to replace sometimes, requiring dis-assembly of the steering wheel, etc.

I don't know why the AC should have gone out at the same time - but electrical circuits on cars are very complex and sometime strangely interrelated.

When apparently non-related things shut down, sometimes it may be the ignition switch itself, since it controls much of the electrical of the car.

As you can see, auto electronics are very complex. Look for an independent garage that specializes in electrical work. If not advertized as such in the yellow pages, call some and see if they appear to actually have some knowledge about electronics. And, you might have to take this car to a Lincoln dealer and pay to price to get the light and air working again.

twawro

Hi, I'm Ted and I'm hoping someone out there can help me with a headlight problem with my girlfriend's 1995 Geo Metro. Her headlights are not working. However, her high beams do come on when you "flash" them but not when you put them on. Daytime running lights, turn signals, rear lamps and the parking light on the passenger side all work. But the front driver's side parking light does not. I checked fuses and the wiring seems to be fine. Does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? Thank you very much for your help

Mr_Shiftright

I'd say the headlight switch itself. The parking light is probably unrelated.

larry2906

Drivers side low beam does not work. Both high beams work fine. I replaced the bulb and the low beam still does not work. Any ideas?

burdawg

Is it getting any DC voltage when you turn it on?

Mr_Shiftright

Some cars are fused in funny ways. Check the fusing, then do as burdawg says and check for voltage at the connector as it plugs into the light...sometimes corrosion gets in there.

boboli

I have a Ford Expedition. The interior lights stay lit, and the dummy lights say there is "a door ajar". I've narrowed it down to the rear passenger side door. I cannot find any switch on the door jam, and am not sure where to look inside the door, or frame. Does anybody know where to find the sticky switch before I pull apart all of the trim molding? THings like that usually upset my wife because I never put it back the right way.

Mr_Shiftright

isn't it in the lock itself on those cars?

boboli

That is a thought. That door also has a child safety switch that will lock itself at times. Any ideas on what to look at, or how to test?

Thanks for any help.

Mr_Shiftright

sorry no, I have just heard that this is where that dome light switch is. I'd suggest going to the Explorer topic (see make/model drop down window to left of this page) and then once there use the "search" feature and plug in "door switch" or "short in dome light".

autojunke

yes, the door ajar switch is in the latch, I have "fixed" several of them in the past (mostly on taurus's) by just spraying some penetrating fluid in the latch, and working it for a bit, in fact, out of the dozen or so I've seen, Ive only had to actually replace 1, dont even take the panal off, just spray directly into the latch and work it back and forth.

dmarick

i have a 91 mazda 323 tat will have spark from coil part time then will quit for a few min what will cause this? ive replaced the ignition modualer and rotor and cap and i have a new coil on order is ther something else to look at? :sick:

94grandcherlar

When any door is opened or the dash lights dimmer switch is pushed to ON, the interior lights come on but many other things don't work - radio turns off, pwr locks, map lights don't work. Another piece of this puzzle; when the key is turned off then turned on again later, the radio resets to 12:00 with the stored radio stations still there, but not any "recently" saved/stored radio stations. The radio is the original unit and I'm not aware of any electrical issues from the previous owner.

fanuttin

My 1992 Jimmy failed state insp.for no high beams. I have the dimmer located in the turn sig. multi-function arm,all other functions are good. When I pull back on the arm, no switch detent and no high beams. Is there anything I need to know B-4 attempting repair myself? spec. tools? procedure etc? :confuse:

alcan

Headlight Dimmer Switch
GM Blazer/Jimmy/Typhoon/Bravada 1983-1993

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the lower column trim panel, then remove the steering column-to-instrument panel fasteners and carefully lower the column for access to the switch.

If the ignition switch shares fasteners with the dimmer switch it may be necessary to remove it first.

3. Remove the dimmer switch-to-steering column retainers, then remove the switch from the column.

To install:

4. Position the switch to the column and loosely install the retainers.
5. Insert a 3/32 in. (2.38mm) drill bit into the adjustment hole provided in the switch to limit travel, then push the switch up against the actuator rod in order to remove lash.
6. Tighten the switch retainers, then remove the drill bit.
7. If removed for access, install the ignition switch.
8. Raise the column into position and secure, then install any necessary trim plates.
9. Make sure the ignition is OFF, then connect the negative battery cable.

shawn15

hello everyone. i have an 1994 astro with a vortec 4.3 tbi.it runs well with no trouble codes for 5-45 min.then all at once it will just shut off then if you wait for about an hour it will restart.i have traced the problem down to that it is not getting any signal to the fuel injectors.its getting fuel up to the throttle body and its getting fire but when i hook my noid lite to the injector wires its not flashing.then after i wait for a while and i try it the lite will flash and it will run.i have tried both changing both computers in the kick panels one at a time and putting the originals back in when it didnt help the problem.i have also tried a different map sensor.can anyone here help me with this one? i have asked in other forums with no replys.thanks guys :confuse:

libtechkid115

I have a 1995 mitsubishi eclipse, and recently it started doing this thing where i turn the car on and at idle everything works fine the car heats up to the temperature it should be at and the heater works great, but right when i start driving the Temperature gauge goes down and my heater gets cold.. but once i put it in neutral it starts acting normal again..anybody know whatt to do?

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like at idle you have a high vacuum situation but when you drive, the engine vacuum goes down...if your heater valve is vacuum controlled or if the various flaps that direct heat in your car is vacuum controlled, I'd guess you have a vacuum leak somewhere and your heater valve is closing as you accelerate.

You could test this theory---if you are driving down th road with a cold heater, put the car in neutral and just coast with your foot off the gas---if the heat goes back on, then there you go--you have some vacuum issue.

If it isn't that, I'd check your coolant level. Have you added coolant lately or opened up the system? If you did, you might have air in the cooling system that needs to be bled out. Low coolan might also give you this problem.

I don't think the thermostat could cause this, as you wouldn't have heat at idle with a bad thermostat if it were stuck closed....or if it were stuck open, you'd have heat idle or high speed.

alex36

Hi, I am Alex.I wonder if somebody can help me to solve the problem of my 1998 Linconle Continental. I do not know why the alarm system always alarms in the night without any reason. Somebody told me that it is because the low temperature. I sincerely hope that somebody here can tell me how to let the car stop alarm without any reason.

flashygrandam

1. 1999 PONTIAC GRAND AM
2. Engine size 2.4 L4
3. Transmission AUTOMATIC
4. Mileage 160000
5. Fuel Injection
6. ABS brakes
7. Cruise control CRUISE CONTROL, A/C, POWER STEERING

My 1999 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2dr 4cyl automatic transmission is messing up. When I open a door, bump in to it, turn it on or do anything that involves electricity the car lights start flashing and clicking and if I hadn't turned of my alarm horn it would beep sometimes. It will even start flashing when I come to a stop light, and the engine is still running. It does this every time! My pass lock light on the dash is constantly FLASHING. This all started happening a few months ago when I let my friend drive the car and the battery just died, I replaced the battery Did I completely mess it up and is there anyway to stop the flashing and clicking? It is driving me crazy. I have to turn my headlights on during the day so people will not think I stole the car. Is this my passlock? I can start my car every time and the passlock light is FLASHING not staying on constantly. Can I expect my car to stop starting any day? We tried to cut the yellow wire attached to the ignition but it didn’t do any thing because I can start it every time so I doubt it is my ignition/ignition sensor. Please help I don’t have the money or want to spend it on a dealer fixing it. I keep reading about installing a remote start to bypass the passlock but my car STARTS. What do I do?

Mr_Shiftright

I don't know your particular system but it sounds like your alarm is partially a motion detector and this is some kind of mercury switch that you need to find and disable.

toycam2

My high mileage Camry loses electrical power on occasion when attempting to start. I usually notice the problem when starting with the headlights turned on. Occasionally the electrical system will completely fail right after I start the car and switch the headlights on. On one occasion while driving, I turned the headlights off/on and the electrical system failed (while driving). All pos and neg leads from battery have been cleaned, cables and alternator replaced. Battery is 4 yrs old, yet tests good when analyzed. Usually after system fails, I disconnect neg and pos. cable from battery, wait a few minutes, reconnect and the car will start. Any ideas how to determine what the problem is?

Mr_Shiftright

I think your battery is shorting out internally.

luckytop

I have a 1971 Ford LTD. The radio works fine, but when I step on the brake, the volume goes lower. When I turn the blower up to high, the volume goes lower. I am thinking it is a grounding issue, but am not sure. Any suggestions to solve this problem?

user777

i'm thinking of a marginal battery, and/or alternator (or both). i think you can go to an advance auto or other and get a free check of both with an automated system they roll out to your car where they will hook it up, then load the battery down and see if it can recover and if the alternator still puts out proper power for charging.

kerra

when i turn the key on somtimes the radio,wipers and the power windows do not work, it seams like the secuity is locking them out it doesnt happen all of the time but it is getting worse, is there a relay the controls these items at the same time? the security light only comes on right before you start the vehicle and then goes out. if it does work after you start it then when you try to roll down the windows or turn on the wipers on, then it turns everything back off.

jsalas2719

I am having the same problem with my 94 Montero. he A/T temp light, brake light and battery lights are intermittently lit. I thought that a mouse had shorted something. Did you ever find out what caused this?

caerann

About 30 days ago I leased an 07 Dodge Caliber SXT Sport factory equipped with the MusicGate Power 458 watt Boston Acoustics sound system. A few days after getting the car I noticed static would drown out the right channel only (Assuming the passenger side speakers are the right channel, that is.) of the sound system for 5 to 10 minutes after the car had been operational for about 20-30 minutes. The problem occurs intermittently no matter whether the tuner or CD player is in use and eventually I found that shutting the engine off while the sound system is on and then restarting the car solves the problem. (Versus shutting the sound system off first and then starting the engine up again which does nothing.)

The car is at the dealership now and they of course can't duplicate the problem. An electrical diagnostic test checked out okay and the only possibility they can come up with is that the interference is caused by my cell phone. Why then doesn't it happen every time I use the car? My thought is it could be moisture related and it's been getting progressively colder and drier here in Chicago over the past 9 days so I have not had the static since Saturday Jan. 20th. I will have to wait and see if this occurs again but wondered in the interim:
Has anyone else experienced this kind of problem? Heard of it? Could it really be cell phone related??

Any ideas would be most appreciated.

Caerann

kjjones

This is a weird one. Took a trip last weekend in my 93 Chevy full-size (G20) conversion van with 5 other happy skiers. First problem noticed was that the transmission downshifted when the headlights were switched to high beam. After this happened a couple of times we just left the brights off.

Next evening, switching on the dome lights would kill all power - engine dies, radio resets, everything! No fuse blew, and when ignition was switched off for a few seconds you could start back up - strong battery, charging ok. So, checked battery connections (OK) and left dome lights off.

Day after that, coming home, stopped for gas. Switching on headlights now killed all power. Further investigation found that switching on dome light, parking light, and horn would all cause this failure. Other things were ok (brake lights, turn signals, heater fan).

Tryed removing fuses, but couldn't find a combo that would leave me with headlamps - finally came home with 4-way flashers on in the dark.

So, what the heck could cause this?!? No fuse is blowing (that I can find), and everything resets once the ignition is switched off. Right now I don't know what to look for and suspect that the whole thing could die permanently at any time.

Help!!!

KJ