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any aftermarket bumpa-thumpa amplifiers or alarms in there? pull their fuses, too, and make sure they are darn well off when you don't want 'em draining the battery.
one of these tips should get you farther between charges, and then you can chase the specific issues related to the item between the fuse and the big thingie on the end of the wire.
This morning I pulled the B+ cable at the starter-still draining. I've switched out batteries with a known good one-still draining. I don't have any extra stereo stuff and the security system is the factory one. I'm stumped.
I think an easier way to trouble shoot this problem is to remove the positive battery cable and put an ohmmeter from the positive cable to ground, hopefully you will find a low resistance to ground which verifies your problem, then start removing fuses, pulling connectors, removing bulbs, etc, until you find the source. If you have a light under the hood, don't forget to remove the bulb, ditto for the courtesy lights (assuming the doors will be open), so your not chasing ghosts.
You said you removed the 50A "battery" fuse and that seemed to help. Is that the fuse that feeds the fuse block for the accessories, or is it for the charging system?
A factory wiring diagram (part of the factory manual of course) is very helpful when trying to find this type of problem.
We discussed driving habits and because I drive a lot in town, the battery isn't getting charged enough to offset the computer drain. My solution: I hooked up a Battery tender tonight and I guess I need to do more highway miles! Thanks to all for your input.
i've got a problem with my fuse box. I CAN'T FIND IT!
it's an '81 parisienne.
one of my interior lights that is supposed to come on only when the door is open won't turn off, even when the car is off. i'm thinking of just finding the fuse for that light, and disconnecting it.
Which light is it that won't go out? I don't know if that fuse controls other functions, but it might just be easier to take the bulb out of the light. Anyway, good luck!
BTW Shifty, I didn't realize my email address got changed to private. Thanks for pointing that out to me...I've fixed it now. Just make sure you guys don't send anything TOO dirty to me! ;-)
i'm driving myself nuts looking for the fuse box. it's not where it's supposed to be. wish i had a digi cam.....
the weird thing is, it's the light under the passenger side of the dash...near the floor. it's supposed to come on when the door is open, and it won't turn off. also, the interior roof light stays on unless i turn the headlight knob to where it's supposed to turn it on! annoying. i hope this isn't an indication of electrical disaster soon to come.
the other thing you could do is take out the one (or sometimes two) bolts that hold that lamp socket assembly on, and take the goldarn bulb out.
hint: if you really want to chase the fuse box, whose location will be in the middle or back of your owners' manual, start the emergency flashers. GMs in the late 70s often had the e-flasher on the fuse block assembly, and since the parisienne was the old pontiac bonneville with new badges out of the ontario assembly plant, there's a good chance that will help you find it. follow the clicking noise. some of these GMs in the era, like my 76 skylark, had a little ring to pull that unlocked the fuse block, which you could then swing down. the fuses were facing the sky, and you saw the back of the fuse block, in cars so equipped.
Now, here's a bit of a kicker. At least, going by the manual in my grandmother's LeSabre, that fuse controls the "Dome, Sail Panel, Trunk, Reading, Vanity, Theft Deterrent, Powr MIrrors, Illuminated Entry Interior Lights, Automatic Door Locks, Rear Lighter, Memory Seats, Power Door Locks, and Tailgate Ajar".
The diagram lists the spot the fuse occupies as "13", and says it takes a 20-Amp (yellow) fuse. On the actuall diagram, it's toward the lower right-hand side of the fuse block, and has "DOME CTSY" stamped underneath it.
Keep in mind though, this was for an '85 LeSabre. So while similar, your mileage may vary!
Now I never had to mess with those courtesy lights under the dash on a GM car, but my '79 Newport had those same lights, and so does my '79 New Yorker. They're not hard to reach. I'd just pull the bulb out, instead of yanking the fuse and disabling all sorts of other lights and features your car might have.
Hoping you can help me with this one! I have a 93 Clubwagon. BestBuy put in a basic alarm system for me in 96. Van is hardly driven. Couple weeks ago, battery died. After jump start and driving around, died again. Since battery was a few years old, replaced it. Decided didn't need alam anyway, so turned alarm off by toggle switch, then pulled inline fuse under dash. Still, when I put new battery in got a pretty good spark when connecting black cable.
Van ran fine for a few days, then didn't use it for about a week. This afternoon tried to start - nothing but a few chirps from alarm(!?). Later in evening decided to try and pull plug to siren - but at siren no way to do so unless cut wires. Found under dash siren wires spliced into other wires - decided that if I unspliced them I might disconnect something important. So didn't mess with them. Tried again to start. This time, series of about ten rapid, short chirps then STARTED! Turned off, did again and again, chirps then delay, then start. ?? I can't figure it out. Anyone?
Thanks for your consideration!
The emergency flashers work all the time.
When I start the car and either blinker fails, I turn the ignition off, then restart again, and they work. I already replaced the whole turn signal lever. Still fails on occasion.
Any suggestions ??
either will work, but replacing the flasher is cheaper
and when you go across town with the truck, I'd use the approach of "you know, I've had these problems, and here's what I think they did with it... and I'd just like a fresh set of hands and eyes to walk through it again. the problem seems to move around every time I've been in."
rather than cuss until you stop turning purple, of course.
99 Intrigue interior lights above rear passenger doors and bottom of r/v mirror do not go off after shutting doors or starting engine. Ignition switch lamp and lamps beneath dash go off with "theatre" dimming as described in OM. Have pulled 15A fuse from panel for the time being. Any thoughts? Thanks.
If the lights you mentioned are on some kind of delay and normally stay on after the door is closed, then you have to hunt down the relay that controls that I would guess.
Thanks for your help and suggestion.
Rough running in a diesel could be a number of things. When was the last time you replaced the glow plugs? They DO wear out. Also dirty injectors and/or a valve adjustment are periodic maintenance issues on diesels.
Cruise control problem is probably the "amplifier", a little brain buried somewhere under the dash (used to be behind the glove box on older models but I don't know on yours).
Which "indicator light" are you talking about.
Sounds like your car is asking for a little better TLC. I think it's time for you to invest some money in a major maintenance effort. MD diesels are very forgiving but they do give you signals that they are in need of attention and I think that's what's going on here.
The lower two HVAC blower speeds on my Sunfire do not work at all (the two higher ones work fine). The dealer told me the blower relay was bad and would cost about $200 ($160 labor) to replace it. I declined and got the part number instead. I ordered it on-line for $5 plus shipping, but I don't have any information on where it is or how to get to it. The dealer claimed the front dashboard must be removed to replace it (which is how they justified the $160 labor). Can anyone help me with a schematic or instructions on how to access this part. It's a 1"x1"x1" cube with 4 heavy pins on one side.
Any help is appreciated.
The yellow ABS, Traction control Off, and Slip lights came up as I was driving! Tried to turn the car off and on, and then the brake light and another one (cant remember which one) came up!
What is going on?
Now only the ABS and the Traction Control lights come up. What is interesting is that if the revs are below about 1500 the lights go out and all seems normal. Step even slightly on the Gas and they come on!
Also, afetr driving for 30 mins all was back to normal. At my lunch break - same problem, for a while and then it fixed itself.
I am thinking maybe I have a problem with my alternator?
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
whim of GM. Any ideas on how to get GM to honour their Warranty in a timely manner would be appreciated.
Of course, I'm presuming this engineer as they call him is not a fantasy action figure and therefore a stall on the part of the dealer. You could call the GM Zone Office and find out more about this scheduled visit and make sure it's real.
Generally, the field rep comes when the dealer doesn't know what else to do.
I'm having a problem with my 1983 Toyota Cressida and my knowledge of electrical systems is quite limited. The battery was killed twice due to the key being left in the acc position overnight. It takes a boost fine and the battery(which is quite new) holds the charge. I tested the alternator(which also appears new) and it puts out fine. After boosting the car I let it run for 20 min to charge up. I then pressed the power locks and the car immediately died and had insufficient power to restart. Boosted again, let it run again, hit the power windows.....died. I'm left scratching my head. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You unintentionally dealt your battery two mortal blows.
one, TOTAL discharge is very bad for a battery. Two, charging a dead battery with the alternator can harm both battery and alternator.
So have the battery load-tested. I think this will solve your problem.
Next time, use a very small trickle charger, maybe 1 amp, and very slowly recharge a dead battery. Never never NEVER use your alternator to charge a totally dead battery. At best, you'll harm the battery, at the middle you'll fry your alternator, and at worst the battery will explode especially if it's run low on electrolyte or if the plates warp, overheat and touch. Remember, inside that battery is hydrogen gas (remember the "Hindenburg'?)
I noticed my stereo does not get good reception when the rear defroster is on. My car has the antenna built into the rear windshield so obviously something is clashing back there. The body shop says they didn't touch the rear windshield so I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what the problem could be. Could something have been knocked loose when I was hit?
Please help !
I doubt it is a sensor, as various light would come up when the car was parked, and I revved the engine past, about, 1500 rpm.
Interestingly enough, this lasted for a day, and now two weeks (and 700-800 miles) later I haven't seen the problem once.
What worries me is that I will be going on a long trip soon, and want to be fairly sure the car won't break down on me.
I'll be going to the dealer for an oil change soon, is there anything I should ask them to check?
I suspect the alternator was producing out of spec power particularly when the car was revved. Or maybe some computer was acting up.
If I remember correctly I was getting all sorts of warning lights - not just the ones related to the brake system.
However, a very funky battery might. Computers tend to go nuts if voltage falls just a bit. I think it's worse than even a little spike now and then.
Anyone have any experience or suggestions on getting this kind of repair done? The car is out of factory warranty so I'm trying to avoid having to pay the dealer anything. Thanks.