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After much thinking about this problem and analyzing the situation, it appears that it is more likely to hapen when I am in heavy traffic. This indicates that the engine compartment is heating up and possibly causing an electonics module to generate this noise which is being picked up by the copper cable to the trunk mounted CD. A few minutes after the vehicle has been moving at a reasonable speed (40-50 mph), the noise reduces in volume or disappears completely if the outside temp is at the low end of the range.
If I turn off the engine while there is noise coming through the CD and run the CD on "accessory", there is NO noise.. So it is related to engine electronics being active..
Any thoughts on this or do any other possibilities come to mind ?
also, replace any bulbs that are out or questionable.
you need to have the ABS system looked at if you don't find ground issues. I suspect you were whanged in the right front from the description of problems... the ABS sensor for that wheel in particular could be hammered, if you have an oscilloscope you should be able to read pulses as you spin the wheel by hand. if not, the sensor is sick and needs replacement.
you should also have the front end alignment checked. keep the bills in one place and submit to insurance for reimbursement.
Boy that is possessed! I've never seen anything like it - a van driving down the road with nobody in it!
Seriously, though, try leaving all remote controls behind and see if the problem does away. Sometimes, it can be something as simple as the remote control being somewhat stuck. Worth a try before taking the van apart.
Remove 1 retaining screw at the bottom of the tail light housing and remove the housing.
Rotate tail/signal bulb socket 1/4 turn counterclockwise and remove from housing.
Replace the bulb.
Reverse steps to install.
Shifty the Host
Since I purchased my Buick in July, 2001 I have experienced malfunctions of the two-driver memory settings (mirror won't return to pre-set position), automatic door lock/unlock feature, rear sonar back-up system, compass, and the door lock horn chirp feature.
According to my State Lemon Law, four unsuccessful repair attempts to remedy a "non-conformity" qualifies a vehicle as a "lemon."
My question is this:
Can I legitimately argue that all of the above features are functions of the Body Control Module, and thereby conclude that all of my service visits were unsuccessful attempts to repair the same problem?
Do you know of a consultant or company who would match my repair records with my GMPD extended warranty contract to give me a roadmap, so I could talk with GMPD Warranty Department about the continued electrical problems and the repairs I already paid on my 1999 Cadillac 4Door Sedan Deville? Who should I talk to with the extended warranty division of GMPD?
The Cadillac dealer who repaired my car, which had another problem this week, the dealer repaired 12 times before this week, the service manager for the dealer told me today the car has electrical problems, the he can't repair the car.
What type of settlements have you heard about
with GM Cadillac Division Warranty Department?
Desperately in need of suggestions!
The next morning after I released the emergency brake (I have manual transmission), the brake light turned off as usual and then several seconds later turned back on. I checked the brake again to ensure it was released all the way. Sure enough the light persisted. I began to drive without resistance as if the brake were on. Throughout the first ten minutes or so the light randomly turned on and off. Then after awhile it ceased to light. This happened on the way home as well.
This morning similar occurrence but less. On my way home from work no flicker whatsoever. The light cut off when I released the brake and never illuminated again.
The bahavior of it seemed more like an electrical problem than a mechanical, but you never can be too sure when it comes to the brakes.
I brake fluid is at an acceptable level.
Any insight into the demonic brake light???
Otherwise, if this light also monitors ABS, on most systems you can scan the ABS system for an error code I believe.
Experienced user may please give their opinion. My car is a Suzuki Verona 6 cylinder and has a 12 V outlet and lighter socket.
By the way the Car is doing excellent after 500 miles.
"Does it affect the alternator in the long run?."
It puts additional load on the alternater when the vehicle's started afterwards, and depending on how much the battery was discharged it might cause an alternator overheat condition.
works wonders for intermittents. don't forget to lift the battery ground cable first, and don't forget to figure out what all your radio codes, etc. are and write 'em down if you have "theft prevented" electronics.
my personal favorite weather issues usually clean up when I soak up a rag with windshield cleaner and clean the HV wiring, boots, and coil tops. I also pull each boot and skim the inside with dielectric grease to keep moisture out. works nicely.
on my fords, with distributorless ignition, I also back out the coil mount screws a little bit and retighten them, to break any corrosion that might exist. if I was a little more energetic, I would take the boogers out and skim them with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion and put 'em back. mind, I have never improved things with the screw routines, but figure it's a good time for a little PM since I'm in the neighborhood.
So it was an installation boo-boo. Thanks, I'll remember that one!
What caused to motor to be out of phase from where the relay expected it to be? Was the battery not disconnected?
When the light was removed, it was in the 'open' position.
When the new one was installed, it was in the 'closed' position.
Or vice-verse. Wouldn't that do it?
Or, when battery power is applied, the car assumes the light is in the closed position and it wasn't.
The above assumptions, etc might be referenced in the owner's manual.
the other 89 does not work. Can you replace the switch box with your original 89 and see if it works?
Does the window go up and down noticeably slower than the passengers side?
I have a 2001 GLE. Here's the problem - when I lift the driver's side window button all the way up (auto mode) the window closes and then goes down a couple of inches. It is as if the window does not recognize it has closed, but instead assumes it hit an obstacle and stops/rolls down a little.
When lifting that button just a little and holding it there (manual mode) the window closes just fine.
Does anyone know what might be wrong? How much is this likely to cost to fix at the dealer?
Actually I noticed on a cool day it works fine. Now that it is hot again it bounces every time.
Thanks for any help Mr_Shiftright!
If you could pop off the door panel and identify this microswitch or pressure switch or whatever it is, and if we could spray it with a "freezer" aerosol, we could identify if that's the problem.
Usually, when you temporarily freeze an electronic component, it will fail temporarily and then you know for certain.
Battery cables and connections are all tight. I'm assuming now that the answer is battery related (a short, perhaps), but I don't know where to troubleshoot from here on. Thanks.