Electronic Gremlins - Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy



  • woojacwoojac Member Posts: 6
    Need some help with a strange starting problem on my 95 Dodge neon (5 spd) About 50K miles on it.

    The car will start well and immediately stop after 1/2 second. It will do this 2 or 3 times before staying alive. Giving it some gas will keep it going, but sometimes it will die after that again. Sometimes you turn the key and there is just a clicking noise. A dealer replaced a voltage regulator about a year ago and it solved the problem temporarily.

    I cleaned off the battery terminals to see if that was the problem. Seem to be getting good contact. Battery voltage seems fine. Battery is about 3 years old.

    Clutch is depressed all the way and held in (so in theory no interlock problems(?)).

    Many thanks for any helpful hints!
  • softfade64hsoftfade64h Member Posts: 1
    Intermittently when in stop and go traffic, my engine will just shut off. I am usually forewarned that this is about to occur because the radio will stop playing or pop several times. the car so far has started up immediately, even while in neutral and rolling along with traffic.

    Another "luxury" feature of the car is that the radio should play for 10 minutes after the car is stopped (until a door is opened). What I've had occur several times is that when the car is stopped, there is a 10 - 15 second delay before the radio will continue to play. This has happened sporadically.

    I took the car to the dealer. Of course they found everything else wrong with it and convince me that those issues were the problem. the alternator has been replaced, the injection system has been cleaned and air/fuel sensors has been replaced. Well, $800.00 later I'm still fighting this gremlin.

    Someone please help!
  • hhua1hhua1 Member Posts: 41
    Our Cont head lights sometime flickering in random interval. Does anyone has this problem or knows how to fix it? Thanks in advance.
  • mab91862mab91862 Member Posts: 2
    Wanted to post what finally fixed the Ford Aerostar problem. I did the subscription to www.alldata.com, and pulled up the schematics. It turns out that the "clock spring" assembly, behind the steering wheel, was the common point. I went to the Ford dealer, they wanted to hook it up to the diagnostic plug, for $95, and check out the "Fault Code". Using the schematics, I was fairly sure that it was the "clock spring" assembly, so I had them just change it out. It fixed all 3 problems. I asked for the old part back, took it apart, and saw the problem. The ribbon cable, that is wound up, had pulled off from one of the connectors in the assembly. It looks like the "clock spring" assembly is one of those components that is meant to fail eventually. If you hear of anyone having problems with controls mounted on the steering wheel of a Ford product, it would be a good bet that the "clock spring" assembly is bad.
  • clutchlessclutchless Member Posts: 2
    My girlfriend bought a used Escort Wgn in October 2001 and has recently (the past month) been experiencing a strange electrical gremlin. After she takes the key out of the ignition the parking lights will come on by them selves. You can't turn them off by switching them on and off, in fact the only way to get them to turn of is to open and close the tailgate (sometimes you need to do it a few times).

    The worst part is that sometimes you can get them to go off, but they come back on later (and drain the battery). We took the car to the local Ford dealer, he found nothing (could only duplicate the problem once).

    He DID say that Ford Rangers have had this problem, and the fix is a costly replacement of the complete headlamp assembly and switch.

    Any advice?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    it wouldn't be the complete headlamp assembly and switch, I don't think... but there could be an electronic module funky or some control switches dirty. there were a bunch of GEM module goofinesses in Exploders around 1999-2000 that caused wipers to go out and stuff, there might be a TSB out that pins your issue to the GEM or another module, check alldata.com. headlights are a safety item, also check the nhtsb.gov site for a possible recall, which could put the cost for the repair on ford. otherwise, try a junkyard for a salvage module.
  • redline65redline65 Member Posts: 693
    I need some help troubleshooting an electrical problem for my '99 Intrigue GL. Here is what is happening:
    When I have my foot on the brake and the right turn signal on, both front turn signals flash.
    When I have my foot on the brake and the turn signals off, my right rear amber turn signal illuminates, but does not flash.
    When I have my foot on the brake my left rear brake light doesn't illuminate. I changed the brake light bulbs, but it didn't help.
    Any ideas?
  • rudy2000rudy2000 Member Posts: 32
    I am an Avionics Technician by trade. I once had a Ranger that drove me nuts with electrical failures. Turned out that the engine wire harness were brital with age. When I would fix one problem, another would pop up. Ford offered no help with replacement lugs/spades, and finding them at electronic stores was not possible either. The dealer said the only fix was to replace the engine harness. But being an electrical type, I was able to reuse/find something close that would work. My point is finding intermittent electrical failures is difficult at best. There is no time limit on trouble shooting. The dealer will charge $45-$65 per hour to trouble shoot, and they might not have any more skill than you do! With that, I think an independent electrical repair shop might be a better choice for hard to fix problems because they charge less, and they specialize in electrical. Also, I think Ford's wire assembles are the worst in the industry, even MG's were better. Rudy
  • hhua1hhua1 Member Posts: 41
    Ordered the headlights switch from Checker Auto for $20 plus tax, replaced it, there was burn mark at the connector. I can feel the switch was very hot after taking it out, right after the lights was used for a while. So far it working fine with the new switch. Lincoln dealer checked the VIN# and it not under recall and want to check the car out at the rate $65/hr.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    If some of the brake/tail/turn bulbs on the Intrigue are two-filament bulbs, it is likely that a socket is bad, causing the brake and turn circuits to become cross-connected. If one of the lamp assemblies has been damaged or had water in it, I would check there first. It is also possible that a ground connection is loose or broken. In this case, moving the wiring harness for the tail/brake lights may reveal the problem. The combination switch on the steering column could also be the problem but I believe this to be less likely than the above items. Good luck.
  • gcorralgcorral Member Posts: 1
    I've upgraded the electric to a higher watt alternator with an electric voltage regulator. New battery. It was working great but all of a sudden when I turn on my stereo (an aftermarket CD player) if the car is at a low RPM, and then I turn on the lights or blinker or hit the breaks, the stereo shuts off. If I continue to drive at a higher rpm, it will turn back on after a few minutes.

    also - I thought it might be the voltage limiter on the instrument cluster. I had an extra one lying around. When I popped it in, the fuel and heating gauge failed to work. So then I put in the original limiter and STILL no functioning in the fuel and heating gauge.. WHAT DID I DO? The voltage gauge still works, speedometer, and all panel lights still work. Just those two items don't move at all.

    Thanks for any thoughts on this.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    A problem with the voltage limiter would effect only the fuel and temperature gauges (and oil pressure if you have an elec oil pressure gauge. I would look for a broken connection at the voltage limiter or open ground connection for the instrument cluster. The stereo problem seems to be unrelated to the instrument voltage limiter. Suggest that you check the system voltage; some stereos won't function below a certain threshold voltage - about 9.5 volts I believe. Recheck the voltage regulator and all of the associated ground connections. Good luck.
  • alohaphilalohaphil Member Posts: 1
    1999 mazda B-2600 pickup (same as ford ranger)
    One day my ABS and check engine warning lights came on plus the speedometer
    doesn't start until I hit about 35 MPH and you feel a little surge in power when the
    speedo starts. Disconnecting battery took care of the check engine light for one day
    plus it has come on and off by it's own a couple times
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    As you have spent enough for no improvement with the dealer, you have earned an interview with the Lincoln District Service Office representative. There is a basic "Safety" issue with your problem and pushing the "Safety" issue onto the DSO rep could result in their having the problem fixed and even paying for half of your $800 expense to fix one of their prestige automobiles. After I communicated with my DSO, they paid 50% of the repairs to our 94 TC with 97,000 on it. Give it a shot and let's hope you make progress with them.
  • a_l_hubcapsa_l_hubcaps Member Posts: 518
    I'm doing some work on my brother's 1977 Toyota Celica ST (20R engine, auto trans). I found that the backup lights come on in Neutral instead of Reverse. I imagine it's a faulty switch, but I don't know where the switch is. I took apart the console around the shifter and it's definitely not in there. I also looked on the trans itself and I didn't see anything that looks like it. My Haynes book shows it as a part that screws into the trans casing on a '78-81 Celica, but doesn't give an illustration for the '71-77 models. Anyone know where it is?

    -Andrew L
  • vorzal2001vorzal2001 Member Posts: 2
    I'm in desperate need of some help regarding possible electrical problems with my fuel shut-off solenoid in a Dodge Ram 3500 Diesel. I'd be greatly appreciative if anyone could give me a place to start. This is the only problem holding me back from getting my truck repaired.

    Full details are located here (I only need help with the fuel solenoid part):


  • gladicheckedgladichecked Member Posts: 93
    Sorry this is so long:

    I have a 2000 Protege ES (automatic). I have had the car for almost 2 years now and it has been flawless...nothing but oil changes until now. I took a trip to Nashville, TN (from Raleigh, NC) and on the way back it was raining hard for about 2 hours straight. The rain let up and shortly after I had the cruise control, AC, rear defogger, radio, and headlights on. Occasionally my headlights got brighter for a few seconds and then back to normal. At the same time there was a slight surge (or hesitation?) in engine power. As I was almost back to Raleigh my battery light starting coming on, then going back off (and I felt the hesitation). I noticed this as I exited off of the highway onto the exit ramp. It was 3AM when I got in so I didn't do anything about it at the time. The next day I checked the belts and battery connections and everything looked fine. During the next week I made several short trips (non highway) and the problem did not re-occur.

    Since I am moving to Nashville next week I took the car in to get this checked out before I make the 8+ hour drive. When I explained the symptoms over the phone to the service department they suspected the alternator. I brought the car in to the dealership today (wed) and the battery light came on as I was exiting the highway to go to the dealership (again with hesitation). This is the first time I had the car up to highway speed since my trip last week. They checked the car and said the alternator was fine. He also said he didn't have authorization to replace parts unless he could diagnois what the problem was (still under warranty). He said to pick up the car and if it happened again to bring it back in immediately. I told him this was not acceptable since I am moving and making the long drive to TN next week, and I want the problem solved. He agreed to have a mechanic take it on the road tomorrow to try and replicate the problem.

    Does anyone have a clue as to what could be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW, the car starts fine, so I don't think the battery is losing its charge (yet).

    I posted this at Protege problems forum yesterday. To update, the dealer drove the car for 40+ miles at various speeds (including highway) and they couldn't replicate the problem. They drove with the A/C and other power using accessories on. I HAVE to drive this car 500+ miles to Nashville, TN next week, as I am moving there next week. I feel like I am being set up for disaster.
  • deraltederalte Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the alternator and battery in my 85 F250 (460 V-8, Manual Trans) about 18 months ago (regulator checked out OK.) Earlier this week I noticed the battery gauge showed no charging while running, but a slight discharge. Took the vehicle to Auto Zone, who checked out the battery, regulator and in-car check of the alternator. Battery OK, including under load. Regulator OK. Alternator provided about 12.5 Volts at 9 Amps, well under specs. As alternator was under guarantee, they gave me a new one, which was installed this morning. Alas, exactly the same symptoms. Did I mess up the connections for the Field/Armature lugs? Is there a fusible link somewhere that could be the problem? Any other suggestions? (I do have a Haynes manual, which does have a kinda-sorta wiring diagram.)
  • guybostonguyboston Member Posts: 3

    I have a 1996 Mazda Millenia and the trunk and gas door opener on the door doesn't work. It just suddenly stopped. The trunk does open with the remote but in order to fill the gas I have to open the trunk, get out the car, and pop the trunk manually. I have done this a couple of times but it is rather annoying especially when raining. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also where would I find a wiring diagram for the car.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Brian, by now you have probably gotten this fixed, but if not, have the battery checked out for an intermittent short. One way to do this is to monitor the voltage of the battery while dropping it from about 1/2" onto a solid surface. Don't laugh, if the plates of the battery are deteriorating, this will show as a voltage change in the battery. A 12V battery has 6 cells of about 2.1V each. A sure sign of a shorted cell is a voltage measurement of 10.5V. On a small engine, you may not see a starting problem with this. Another possibility is that the solid state voltage regulator in the alternator is failing under load and temperature. Failure mode can be a sharp rise in voltage. The way to see this is to monitor the voltage at the cigar lighter. Under normal conditions, this should be about 13.6-14.6V. What I have seen is the voltage spike to 16+V when the regulator gets hot. Understand that the regulator can get hot from underhood temps, heavy electrical load, or both.

    Let us know what you find out, and good luck with your move.

  • shemzshemz Member Posts: 34
    Dear OPat. and all
    I have an electrical problem with my 95 NISSAN ALTIMA GXE 115,000 miles....the problem started when I wanted to replace my Alarm. I took the old one out (THE FACTORY ALARM)and was ready to put the new one in when all of a sudden the exterior front headlights and back brake lights, and interior dash,and gear lights all blink on and off for about 30 secons when the car is turned off and the doors are shut. But when I drive the car, the lights always blink...making an annoying click noise while driving...very Annoying. I am afraid that it will drain my battery and burn all my bulbs out. I also tried to take out some fuses...but unfortunatly didnt work. I wanted to cut the wire that was connected to the small red alarm bulb inside the car (By the way it also blinks so fast it annoys me too.)so i need all the advice and help i can get.
    thank you all
  • shemzshemz Member Posts: 34
    by the way..i never cut those wires that are connected to the red bulb, and please DONT TELL ME TO TAKE IT TO THE STUPID DEALERSHIP...they suck!!!
  • rudy2000rudy2000 Member Posts: 32
    Stop yelling and get over it. Just cut every wire and start over with new wires. BTW, why did you INOP your old alarm before you were able to install your new alarm?
  • shemzshemz Member Posts: 34
    Hey rudy, iam not yelling, sorry if you thought i was.
    I wrote in capitol to get my point across. and i know for a fact that cutting wires wouldnt do the thing...another words your not funny! but thanks for your ungeniusness..by the way, i wanted Opatience to answer or someone who knows what they are talking about..no offense.
  • shemzshemz Member Posts: 34
    My car got broken into and the theif stole my alarm keychain (this was in my drive way...i thought it was safe and there was no need for it) and my wallete and everything valuable...so i had to get another one.
    and by doing so my inner and outer lights started to flicker or blink, even when iam driving!
    but thanks for your advice.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    which is what is causing all your blinkin' issues. the ideal way to settle all this is to put it back the way it was and have any authorized dealer do whatever resensitizing is needed between the alarm module and a new magic-chip key, alarm fob, or whatever safing device is involved with Nissan systems.

    the "alarm module" is not the full system. the blinking tells everybody that the alarm has been tampered with, meaning another magic computer in the car also has a piece of the action.

    this is a design feature that appears to be working correctly in your case.

    add the cost of the alarm issues to the bills you are submitting to your insurance company, if this damage was covered.
  • shemzshemz Member Posts: 34
    Well, i need to take it to someone thats for sure. but something different happened now, The lights (thankfully) do not blink anymore! instead the inside red light (Alarm Light) stays on all the time, and it never blinks or turnes off?! Could this mean that the whole circuit is ok? or what does this mean.
    Thank you very much for your help
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    it is possible a code has stuck in one of the computers as a reminder that issues have occurred, and that clever engineers at Nissan figured the occasional owner would be hosed over so they transferred the "hey, bad cop, come and get me" flashes to the idiot light after X amount of time. but that's speculation, and if you subscribe to something like Alldata, or get your hands on a manual, you can confirm or condemn that thought.
  • conruaconrua Member Posts: 2
    I am guessing a bad relay. Would anyone know where the relay is located at??
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    Look for a switch attached to the brake pedal mechanism. If you have cruise control, there will be two switches. This sometimes get knocked out of adjustment or just goes bad. Disconnect the switch to determine which one is the brake. If a mechanical problem isn't obvious, replace the switch.
  • hookdoghookdog Member Posts: 6
    New electrical gremlin on '98 Regal, happened totally out of the blue and after an oil change:
    Lower settings on HVAC blower don't work but at the highest setting, the blower works fine. However, at high blower setting, headlights cut off and only come back on when a lower blower setting is selected (and blower not on). Also, overnight the clock on the radio stops working. All fuses and wires fine, from what I can tell. Any ideas????
  • craniumcranium Member Posts: 40
    A little bit of background: I recently recieved an 88 buick century as my "extra" car. I plan to use it for winter driving, and as a spare. I recently replaced the battery, because it was useless, and was not holding a charge. After I installed the new battery, I cleaned the terminals with a wire brush, and **may** have created a problem with a near by grounding wire.
    Now the problem: This car is in very very good shape 111k miles, but pulls like a tank. Drives great, but... now that i think i disturbed the ground, the headlights and other electricals wont work. I have no power locks, interior lights, headlights, lighter or horn. Once in a while the radio will come on, but it will not hold the stations in memory once the car is off. I do have power windows, cruise, fan, rear defroster, map light, brake lights etc.

    A few scenarios:
    The radio is on and working, and if I try to use the horn, the horn will not work, but the radio stays on.

    The radio is on and working, and I try the door locks, they work, and the radio will stay on.

    The radio is on and working, and I try the interior lights, headlights, or lighter, the radio goes out, and sometimes comes back on.

    The radio is on, none of the above mentioned works.

    The radio is on, but not working, and the volume is turned up. I press the horn and hold it, or try the headlights, or hold the door lock button, and I can hear static over the speakers.

    Resolution? I looked over a haynes manual for this car, but the wiring diagrams are foreing to me, and I'm assuming that these all have a common ground, but I'm not sure how to resolve the issue.

    PLEASE HELP, I hate to junk the car for this small problem.

    Oh, I should mention also, that sometimes when the radio is on and working, I will hit a bump, and it will loose power, and them come right back on again. This is obviously a short, and not a fuse.
    Thankx again
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    I'm guessing because you didn't post the engine size, but if it's a 2.8 or 3.1 one place to check is the stud where the positive battery cable connects to the starter solenoid. That's the takeoff point for most of the fusible links which supply power to various circuits. Pretty common for them to be badly corroded. Could also be a fusible link burned open, with the ends held together by the elasticity of the link's rubber insulator coating. Try stretching each of them. If one has any "give", the link's burned open.

    P.S. a "short" is a direct connection (short circuit) between battery positive and ground. Usually results in an electrical fire or blown fuse. Yours has an open circuit.
  • craniumcranium Member Posts: 40
    I assume its the 3.3 only because it says "3300" on the engine itself.

    Sorry for the nievate, but what is a "fusible link"? And you are definitely correct. It is an open circuit, and not a short.

    Thankx again for the help. I want to get this fixed myself, and put the least amount of $$ into it.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The 3.3's are the same. A fusible link is a section of wire which is 4 gauge sizes smaller than the rest of the wire in the circuit, with a thicker, flameproof covering. Usually red, upstream from the rest of the circuit wiring and load. Typically 4"-6" long. It'll burn through first in the event of a short circuit. There are several at your starter solenoid B terminal, where the positive battery cable connects. I'm assuming you've already verified no broken, loose or corroded wires at either battery terminal, and have done a visual of the area around the battery tray where you were working.
  • craniumcranium Member Posts: 40
    I've looked over the area where I was working, and visually see no broken wires.. I took off the ground, cleaned it, and put back, thinking that I may have disturbed the contact. I'll look tonight at the positive lead, and the solenoid. Hopefully I'll find something obviously wrong, and it'll be easy to fix, otherwise, I'll start wiggling those wires (hopefully there will be some red ones there), and watch to see if the headlights or dome light comes on!
  • gwm2gwm2 Member Posts: 6
    I want to sell my '97 Malibu LS but have two problems I'd like to rectify or at least be able to explain to prospective buyers. On the instrument panel display: (1)The "ABS" light comes on randomly but the braking sys. seems to work properly. And(2)The "Anti-Theft" light comes on and the car will not start (you must wait approx. 20 min. to restart the car). Since the car is out of warranty, I'm afraid to take the car to the dealer. Can anyone help me solve these problems? G.W.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    For the ABS light, any shop with a scan tool can check for stored trouble codes in the antilock controller. My first guess would be an intermittent open circuit in a front wheel speed sensor.

    For the no-start, try cleaning the contacts of the resistor pellet in the ignition key.
  • craniumcranium Member Posts: 40
    OK, I finally got to look at it yesterday. Took me about two seconds to find this:
    Off the positive battery post is the large wire which I believe goes to the starter, and a smaller wire. This smaller wire has "fusible link" written on it. This wire has a split in the sheathing, and a buldge in the wire.

    Am I to assume this is the culprit?

    Thanks again everyone!
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    and a good way to test it is find the other side of the link's connection (probably goes to the fusebox, but trace it anyway) and use a big testlight from there to ground to see if there is any power on the other end.

    by BIG testlight, I'm thinking anything from a taillight bulb to a headlight bulb (not a halogen capsule, the burn/shatter risk without the outside lens is too great). that will insure drawing at least an amp from the battery.

    no light, replace the fusible link. you have to match the gauge of wire, and the replacement has to be spliced with an eye to preventing corrosion for years. there are splice clips at parts shops like NAPA for the purpose coated with No-Ox-Id.
  • flyrod1869flyrod1869 Member Posts: 7
    1999 Toytota Sienna minivan. Possessed! It locks the doors by itself, usually it locks/unlocks the doors repeatedly, when driving down the road, even when nobody is in it! It started a few months ago, then quit for a while and is now back with a vengeance. The good news is that I do not have to ever lock it! But when I unlock the doors, with a remote or the key, it activates the "theft deterrent system"--loud horn and flashing lights. This always gets looks in the parking lot :) No help in the owners manual or from the dealers (on the telephone).
    Please advise on what may be causing it, how to fix it, or at least how to temporarily "deactivate" the alarm system.

    Sure I can take it into the shop, but I am asking for help BEFORE I take it in so I do not have to pay an excessive labor charge to pinpoint the problem.
    I am sincerely grateful for your help, thanks!
  • flyrod1869flyrod1869 Member Posts: 7
    It is a factory installed alarm system.
  • loamsloams Member Posts: 8
    I'm having an occassional problem when starting the car. Sometimes I have to turn the key 2-4 times to get "contact" to the starter. Is this an electrical/switch problem or is my starter going bad?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    if there is a bad winding on the starter, you will get the same symptoms that you would if the starter switch being hit by plastic dingusses in the Saginaw Gear steering column has had it.

    way back when my sister was having issues, the mechanic picked up a two-by-two and used it to whack the starter case right hard a couple of times. the car started. diagnosis: rotor windings.
  • cranecrewcranecrew Member Posts: 27
    It's happening more frequently now! ALL gauges go dead including tach, speedo., odom. and then red air bag light comes on. Any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem? 98 Cherokee.
  • takeetnatakeetna Member Posts: 1
  • a_l_hubcapsa_l_hubcaps Member Posts: 518
    I'm in the hubcap business, meaning I do a lot of pulling over to retrieve inventory off the side of the highway. I will generally drive a stretch of highway and spot the hubcaps first, then double back and pass by again to gather them.

    Since I know when one is coming up, I will get in the right lane, slow down, and flip on the hazard lights to make sure people get off my tail before I pull over. However, the hazard lights in my 1986 Pontiac Parisienne only flash when the brake pedal is NOT being applied. When I hit the brake, they just go on solid. They are actually supposed to be that way, according to the owner's manual.

    I want them to flash whether the brakes are on or not, because I think the flashing lights are more likely to send the message to following drivers that I'm planning to pull over. Can I buy a new flasher unit that will change the hazard light behavior, or is this a quirk deep in the wiring that I shouldn't try to mess with?

    -Andrew L
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    way back in the 60s, I had a car that had a 4-pole switch installed to make the turn signal lights into 4-way flashers... you flip the emergency switch, then turn on a turn signal in either direction, and the turn filaments flash.

    when the Gummint decided everybody had to make this happen, they decided you-all must not mess with the turn signal bulbs, having them flash while the 4-ways are flashing would turn other drivers to stone, or something. I am not sure if they are flashing the brake lights, in which case hitting the brakes puts 12 volts on the line whether or not you have a flasher trying to interrupt it, or if there is a lockout relay to affect turn signals as well. the wiring diagrams for my last 3 cars do NOT indicate a violation of Occam's razor in hacking with both signal systems, so I must assume the Feds mandated flashing the brake lights.

    this is dumber than a load of politicians running for office.

    this has kinda P'd me O for 30 years and more, and you are close to opening a wound here..... ;)

    I would suggest you get a lightbar to put on top and use that to indicate you are going for the booty lane, because the federal safety guys wouldn't know a warning lamp if it (characterization unrelated to customer actions deleted)
  • a_l_hubcapsa_l_hubcaps Member Posts: 518

    I figured it was some weird design issue. I know one hubcap guy in NYC who overcame this problem by installing two big red lights with an alternating flash relay inside the rear window of his Buick Century. I'm not quite determined enough to do something like that though. I was just hoping in vain that there was a quick fix :-) Fortunately I do have a big panoramic rearview mirror that I installed, so I can check and see what's going on back there before I brake and pull off. Thanks for the info though.

    -Andrew L
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    there are portable light bars that are sold to trailer types that are temporary-mount... like when you are towing a rotmobile behind you to the shop... that usually are plugged into a trailer connector and duplicate the normal taillights. spend an extra buck if you spot a set and buy 'em and get a matching harness pigtail connector... which you can hook to a flasher module and a lighter plug. then whenever you figure on pulling over, just pull the lighter plug up out of the edge of the cupholder, jam it into the socket, and you have flashers all your very own independent of what the safety guys had in mind (if anything)

    I still think it was a lousy idea to not allow 4-ways AND brake lights. always will.
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