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This used to be an intermittent problem. It would show up only when I started the car, but not every time I started the car. When it did manifest itself, it would go away eventually if I drove the car long enough. Driving the car over bumpy roads didn't make the problem go away, so I guess vibrations had no bearing on it.
I took it to a neighborhood independent mechanic and he guessed it could be the body computer module. I looked up some wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual I have (it's for the Toronado, Riviera, Eldorado, Seville and Deville) and discovered that all the gages but the tach get their data from the BCM. And due to the intermittent nature of the problem, I guessed it happened only when the car was cold. But sometimes the problem would not manifest itself even though I hadn't driven the car in a few days. I guess in those cases the car had been sitting in the sun and the BCM had warmed up.
On the advice of an online friend who's an auto tech, I removed the glove compartment to get at the BCM. When I did this, the problem wasn't manifesting itself. I pulled the rightmost of the three wiring harnesses going into the BCM to see what would happen; the result was somewhat similar to but not the same as the problem. I couldn't get enough leverage to pull either of the other two wiring harnesses. My test leads me to believe that it's not a loose harness.
Now, with the weather having gotten cooler, the problem seems to be permanent.
The mechanic I took it to said he would try to find a BCM from a junk yard or, failing that, a new BCM, but he hasn't called me back, even after I went back once to remind him of my plight. I took it to an Olds dealer, but this service department was so busy that it required appointments. I asked to speak to a service advisor because the problem was intermittent (still, at that time) and I was afraid it wouldn't manifest itself on the day of my appointment; he insisted that there was something wrong with the instrument panel. So I won't be going back to that dealer. I guess I'll try to find another dealer to go to, but I thought I'd post here, too, to get your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
What you are experiencing as well as everyone's reluctance to tackle the problem. Maybe some more poking around in there will produce results for you, hope so.
This switch would be the first place I would look.
Does your center, eye level brake light work correctly? If so, then the switch is probably the problem. The center light is usually directly controlled off the brake pedal, while the left/right brakes light go through the switch....
I'm going to ask this here.
Last Feb, my serpentine belt broke at 1 am on way home from aiport. Got towed to local station. Fixed next day. Summer comes and I try to turn on A/C. Doesn't work, just blows air, does not cool. Take it to dealer, also ask them to fix passenger side window (doesn't work). Pick up car next day, told me compresser broken in a/c and never fixed, would take a week to get part. schedule appointment for next week, I get to car to go home and window not fixed, they said they replaced motor on driver side because that wasn't working. (Side note: It seemed underpowered occasionally.) After I fought with them that they did not fix anything I left, and was out the money, drivers side window still underpowered. Finally last week take it to a different dealer, they troubleshoot it and tell me compressor bad, same as other dealer, however the computer also tests out bad. They tell me the computer is perfect except for the a/c portion. How can this be. They said that they will replace compressor and then see if computer works, but not to be optimistic. Well, I get compressor replaced today $675, and computer tests out bad. Tell me new computer is $875 + labor. Will replace tomorrow. My question is how can a computer be only bad for one part or the car and work on the rest?
Can i get a used computer for less at a junkyard or anywhere?
Another side question, since this summer, the passenger window and the rear passenger window now do not work. I have no idea why, I don't use the windows much, and the drivers side window seems underpowered (takes a long time to go up and down, especially in wet or humid weather). Any ideas or help.
After getting my A/C finally fixed to the tune of $1,600 can i fix the window issue myself? I pretty much of a know but I can follow directions.
If you do this be SURE to replace the plastic moisture barrier (tape it back in place).
2. Take the horn button off or steering wheel off and clean the "grounding plate" that completes the horn circuit when you press on it.
My once reliable, exciting, and powerful car that I once loved and enjoyed driving has become a great looking car all dressed up and can not or may not go anywhere.
Less than a month ago I had my Catera inspected, and did the normal 45,000 preventive maintenance, and had to have my sun roof serviced. This weekend my car battery was dead again (twice). On Friday I had it jump started by Cadillac road service, and on Saturday I had it towed by Cadillac roadside service.
Once more I have had four batteries installed, relays replaced, and something is still draining the power. Please help.
You have a bunch of fuses in the car. It is simple to pull a fuse and put an ampmeter across the fuse contacts and see if there is a large current flow. Doing this for each of the fuses will rather quickly find the fuse/circuit with the current drain.
It then becomes more difficult. But with the factory manuals, which show each component and connector, a knowledgeable tech with some basic electrical skills can dig into this circuit, unplugging components and connectors, to isolate the drain to a certain place.
Since this started when I expect the car was under warranty, it should be continue to be serviced under warranty.
Also, I think there was a TSB about a problem with the Onstar circuit in certain year/s which caused current drain and killing the battery. I don't know if it pertained to your car or not.
After exactly 2 years and five months I was told on today that I needed a positive battery cable. Of course I was told that neither the part or labor was not covered under my extended warranty that I purchased. Also, my factory warranty expired about five months ago. The service rep at the dealership did tell me that he would try to get some of this repair cost covered under the factory warranty. Needless to say, I will also have to cover the cost of a rental vehicle (4 days).
The part is expected to be delivered to the dealership on tomorrow, and my vehicle should be ready tomorrow afternoon. I have decided to trade in this vehicle for a new vehicle as soon as possible, and to also find another dealer.
Duh. The positive cable is probably the main thing between the battery and fuse box.
I think paraphrasing some of these things, and also directly telling them that this problem has been worked on for 2 years, should lead you to a demand for a cable replacement at no charge. And for a loaner car for the replacement time.
Have you paid for 4 batteries also? I would be taking some very firm discussions with this dealership, progressing into jumping up and down rants and raves......
I replaced headlight switch, but then tail lights went out. Took it to a shop, and they replaced the dimmer switch. Two days later, it blew a fuse. Has been okay for about one month, but now while in a bodyshop, they say no voltage is going to headlights. That sounds like a switch has blown again. If so, any ideas on what could be blowing them?
You could possibly test to see if current is going to your AC compressor clutch with a test light. You would pull off the plug at the clutch, move it safely out of the way. Attach a test light with ground, and then start the car and see if the light goes on. At least that would tell you if the clutch is any good.
I don't know on your specific car, but you can jump the cutoff relay and see if that starts the AC compressor. But where it is, I don't know on your car.
i'm having a unique problem with my 96 4runner headlights. when it's raining and i go to shut off my headlights, they stay on. i have to remove the fuses for both headlights in order to shut them off. i naturally assumed something was getting wet so i took it to both a mechanic and an auto & body guy. they both couldn't find where any water would be getting in. has anyone had a similar problem that could shed some light? thanks
Now the kicker driver side 12.v dim purple wire .21v green bright purple .17v green 12v.
If I put my lights on bright the left turn signal indicator on the dash comes on while on dim if i turn the fog lamps on the signal indicator comes on. while on dim everythings ok but passenger side light is still dimer.
Also the turn signal flashes faster when light up.
Please info on this Ron
Any other ideas?
Can you look at the fuse diagram and see if the brake lights run on their own circuit?