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Are you losing fluid at all?
Have you bled the brakes lately?
Auto parts stores usually have those little brass plugs.DON'T DRIVE WITH ANYTHING DISCONNECTED!!!
My question is - should I drive the car for a mile or so after cleaning the wheels so that rust doesn't build up on the brake system or is it ok to continue to do what I have been doing?
At the very least, the brakes should be used enough to get warmed up to drive off the moisture. Also, driving will tend 'wiggle free' water that has puddled in unseen places. I often make it a point to get on the highway and drive over 60MPH to the next exit....but the above is only "between" real wash-waxing sessions.
It really depends on your automible maintenance procedure. When I wash with intent to wax, I use the following procedure:
Wash with Zymol auto wash
Rinse well
microcloth to lift the stubbern stuff (bugsplatter)
chamious to dry the surface
Apply Zymol wax in back-n-forth pattern (use LOTS of muscle to force wax into paint pores!)
Buff with orbital buffer
Use toothbrush in nooks -n- crannies
At that point, the paint surface appears about 3 feet "thick" (as measured with a yardstick).
Personally, I do not like "polishes" that make the surface shiney... it looks "plasticky" ,does not protect from rain-n-snow-n-ice and does not last.
Brake fluid is basically the same chemical formula as your antifreeze. It is designed to be Hydroscopic (attracts water). After about 3 years of use, brake-fluid gets saturated with water and then your brake-system starts to corrode from the inside-out
For this reason, most automobile manufacturers suggest replacing the brake fluid regularly.
BTW: There is such a thing as "DOT5" brake fluid which is basicly silicon oil. This stuff is totally impervious to water. The problem with it is that any water in the system will just sit in the low spots and corrode things even faster than "DOT3" or "DOT4" fluids. So, conventional wisdom says that it is BETTER to have a brake-fluid that attracts water abd holds it in suspension.
Perhaps you should have tried cross-drilled brake lines ;-)
http://www.kalecoauto.com/perf.htm
Let's stay on course please.
Some years back, a colleague of mine advocated the replacement of (at least) front disk pads routinely at 30K intervals. He claimed to never resurface his rotors. I am giving thought to trying that very thing on my Villager. Do you predict any particular problem? I suspect it just might work out.
Rotor replacement are needed when they are warped. Drums that are cut down, with a ridge on the outside edge also require turning. And either should be replaced when worn down past the minimum specifcation.
But with manufactors apparently putting rotors and drums of mimimum quality on new cars, there are not many cars now that will wear out pads without the rotors becoming warped.
My 2002 Malibu, with just under 40K miles, went in the shop recently for rear brake noise. Turns out what happened was the end piece of the brake-adjuster spring broke off, releasing a piece of metal that embedded itself into the shoe, breaking it to bits, and causing exposed screws to gouge the drum. Fortunately, although the mechanic thought the drum was toast, it was able to be turned satisfactorily.
I'm wondering - could this be a possible manufacturing defect in the strength/integrity of that steel spring, or could the damage been caused by something else?
Should I notify the manufacturer - could this be a potential problem on similar cars, or just my extreme bad luck?
Marshella
http://hometown.aol.com/peebs4u2/powerslot_after_3winters.jpg
Now, I am running Bendix rotors and time shall tell if they are any better at resisting the winter roadsalt.
As a reminder... the ORIGINAL Dodge Dakota rotors lasted thru only 2 Vermont winters.
Unfortunately, there are 2 things working against the reduction of roadsalt.
1) All those people that seem to feel it is their right to sue the state because of their own bad driving habits in the snow.
2) The beurocratic idea that if you do not use ALL of your calcide this year, you may not get allocated the same amount next year.
For me, I had a 1987 Toyota Landcruiser that went through three sets of pads ( 1 oem and 2 PBR's if anybody cares?
On a VW Jetta TDI, I am facing the same issue, whether to just change both pads and rotors when they are due and/or measure/calculate and reuse the old rotors. Technical data indicates a measure and reuse procedure. Projections indicate I can reuse the rotors. However, the good news and bad news is the fact that the rear pads tend to wear faster than the fronts. Some VW techs say change the rotors with the pads!! So I am projecting 90/120k miles rear pads and beyond that (120/150k) for the front pads.
This unnecessarry removal of surface material is most often wasted $$ and just takes life off of the rotor. (by making it thinner and more susceptable to warpage.) Also, many modern rotors are NOT SUPPOSED TO BE MACHINED because they are hard-surfeced and the softer inner metal may be exposed.
Under normal circumstances, just changing the pads is just fine. The new pads do not "care" if the rotor is perfectly smooth. Any scars in it will be concentric so they will not increase wear on the new pads in any way.
Of course, if the rotors are beyond wear-tolerance, then that needs to be addressed.
Brake Rotor Refinishing
Do not refinish brake rotors when performing routine brake maintenance such as replacing worn disc brake pads. Refinish a rotor only under the following circumstances:
There is a complaint of brake pulsation.
Important
Do not use a brake rotor that, after refinishing, will not meet the specifications shown on the rotor. Always replace the rotor with a new rotor.
There is scoring greater than 1.5 mm (0.060 in). All brake rotors have a minimum thickness dimension cast into them. This dimension is the minimum wear dimension and not a refinish dimension.
Accurate control of the rotor tolerance is necessary for proper performance of the disc brakes. Machining of the rotor should be done only with precision equipment. Machining equipment should be serviced on a regular basis following the manufacturer's recommended maintenance procedure.
This last time I ordered new pads (Satisfied Pro Ceramic, they suck, don't buy them) and rotors (Brembo, so far so good) from Tire Rack. The first time I got OEM Nissan parts and I had no complaints.
Dave
Specs are:
original rotor thickness 1.024"
minimum machining thickness .975"
discard thickness .945"
lateral runout .003" max
thickness variation .0004" max
caliper to bracket 29 ft/lb
wheel nuts 80 ft/lbs
So for example, if you can get 60,000 miles on a set of pads with some pad material left to go, and you use MORE than one MM, on the rotor; then if you anticipate 60,000 miles on your (2nd set of ) new pads, your rotors are projected to be PAST the discard thickness if you go 60,000 miles and or more!!! . This can of course have catastrophic consequences!!!. Now keep in mind you should do this for each axle changed, so even if one side is good the other side can easily cause you to change the rotors.
Conversely if the 60,000 miles on the pads use less than 1mm on the rotor, then both your new pads and rotors are projected to wear out about the same time at the 60k mile mark for the (2nd set) new pads and app 120,000 for the old rotor.
I don't make assumptions re specs. The numbers I posted are from the current Raybestos Disc & Drum Brake Spec book, which I refer to during every brake job and vehicle safety inspection I perform.
"Conversely if the 60,000 miles on the pads use less than 1mm on the rotor, then both your new pads and rotors are projected to wear out about the same time at the 60k mile mark for the (2nd set) new pads and app 120,000 for the old rotor."
Not necessarily. Look at the difference between minimum refinish spec of .975" and discard spec of .945". By my math Ford wants .030" left for wear, which clearly indicates they don't anticipate more than .030" wear of the rotor surfaces to take place during the service life of a set of pads. These numbers are fairly generous, as most manufacturers specify .015"-.020" to be left for wear after rotor machining.
One part of "not necessarily" IS "Projection." Again this is why I say that some mechanics and or shops recommend just changing rotors with brake pads.