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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 02 echo, 37K, and haven't had any problems until recently. When I accelorate, there is a clicking, almost a vibration noise, when coming up on 15 mph, and again on 35 mph. But then fine after that. Also when I'm in drive, but stopped, sometimes, mostly in the morning when it's cold, it will do the vibrating, clicking noise. It will stop when I switch into park. I've taken it to a shop, and they've looked it over and can't see anything wrong, and just said the sound was, "weird". I did have a tune up, 30K service done on it recently, but the sound started about 2 weeks after, so I'm not sure if they're related. I dont want to spend a lot of money to have someone take my car apart and not find anything. Has this happend to anyone else? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been driving with it for 2 weeks now, without it getting better or worse. Help?
  • I have a 2000 Echo with 168k miles on it. For a long time, while going on the freeway there is cold air coming in on the passagener side. It is more noticeable in the winter due to the air being colder outside. Is there a solution for that? It is a great car and very little maintence has been needed. Please help. Thank you ;)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Have you checked the weather-stripping on that door? That would be my bet - either it is broken, or it is just not working effectively any more due to its age (there will have been lots of door opening and closing in 168K miles!). It shouldn't cost much to have a shop redo the weatherstripping, and it will help keep moisture out of the car too. I assume the air is not coming through the vent, right?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Did they check the tirs for a bolt or nail in them? That will make a clicking noise. Id also check the boots on the CV joints (axles) If the axle goes bad it will click also but usually on curves.
  • The nose isn't coming from my tires, it sounds like it's coming from the driver's side dash.
    Today while driving it on the freeway, I noticed when I would let off the gas and coast, it would make the sound, but sounded like something was squeeking as it rotated. Taking the car on curves doesn't seem to have any significant effect to the sound, but I'll have the axles checked regaurdless. Thank you very much for the advice. I'll go from here.
  • That is a great idea about replaceing the weather stripping, but the cold air is coming from the center counsol. I should have made that more clear. Thanks
  • I`ve got a 2000 Echo. I had a high pitched squeal when I tried to accelerate quickly, or the weather was damp.

    Tried a new aftermarket belt, but that did not help. I chewed that belt up within 2 months. Upon investigation, I found that the power steering pump or water pump, ( I can`t remember at this point) was misaligned with the plane of the belt, causing the belt to ride the edge of the pully. I shimmed one side with a washer and tried a new belt once again. The belt lasted, but still squealed although not as much. I then went with the Toyota belt and have had no problems since. The Toyota belt seems to have a fuzzy surface that rides the pully. I`m guessing that is why it is quieter.
  • I have a 2000 Echo sedan with 250,000 kms on it. Love the car and have never had any mechanical problems. A few years ago I did encounter a slight pinging sound at low speed and low load. It sounded like the timing was off. I know these cars have the variable valve timing and adjustments are non-existent. I did the routine maintenance by changing plugs, air filter, etc. The problem did not completely go away. It turned out to be belts that were loose and slipping. I had the belts tightened in the meantime but eventually replaced all the belts with Toyota parts. All went well until about two months ago. The pinging has returned and now I notice it at all times and all speeds. On the highway there is no pinging unless I put the car under slight acceleration. I never go over 100 kph. I have had the belts tightened and cleaned but the problem still persists.

    Any ideas?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Could be carbonization in the combustion chambers (this has the effect of raising your compression ratio) or possibly could be a faulty knock sensor that is supposed to adjust your timing as you drive?

    You might try using premium gas and see if that temporarily cures the problem. Using premium might be cheaper than digging into the car to fix it otherwise.

    Slight pinging is okay, but continual pinging under load is dangerous for an engine.
  • Thank you Mr. Shiftright. I will go with the premium gas solution first. Using premium fuel wouldn't eliminate the carbonization, would it? All the 250,000 kms are highway miles so I wouldn't think carbonization should be an issue. As for the knock sensor....where would it be located and is it just a feature of the computer?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Here's info on a knock sensor and what it does:

    Location varies with the car. Sometimes on the intake manifold or sometimes on the engine near the bell housing. Usually it's "high up".

    No high octane fuel won't get rid of carbonization. Some additives claim to do this but I'm a bit skeptical. Heavy carbon is very tough to remove. It's even hard to scrape off with a knife!
  • Thank you once again Mr. Shiftright. I hope to find a solution to the pinging in the next week. Once I do I will post the answer.

  • I have a 2000 Echo I had a small exhaust leak it was under the center console so to speak there is a joint there where the exhaust comes out of the motor and bends to go straight under the veh. I took it to a local muffler shop they fixed it for $100.00 it was worth it because I delayed a little and the leak got worse and fumes started to come in the car. I hope this helps
  • Well I did take care of the pinging problem. I had two or three people test drive the car but only one mechanic told me it was the belts. I told him how they were serviced and should have solved the problem. He recommended a pair of Goodyear Gatorback belts. I tried them and he was right.

    Mr. Shiftright.....thank you for all your help and sorry to have been such an inconvenience.

    At present I am trying to score a sweet deal on a 2003 Echo sedan with 27,000 original kms. We may become a two Echo family.

  • xntrkxntrk Posts: 2
    Maybe it's just me, but I'm finding it hard to locate a place that sells the axle-back, twin outlet pipe exhaust for the Echo Hatchback. I live in Toronto and would probably have to order it ... I know. But even on ebay, on the web in general, I'm having a hard time finding aftermarket hop-ups for my RS.

    Does anyone know any places (other than the dealership) that I can order/pick up parts for my RS hatchi? :confuse:
  • In April of 2005 I had to replace Front Rotors on my 2002 Echo at 29,000km at a cost of $112 labor and $110 Parts They were rusted out and could not be machined. I contacted Toyota Canada and after review they sent me a $200 voucher. I now have a 2005 Echo that required front pads, shims, machining of rotors(caught in time), and caliper servicing at 19,360 km (16 months) at a cost of $282.56. I have contacted Toyota Canada again and am awaiting their review for compensation. I have read some other comments and this seems a little too common. I love the Toyota product and quality, but I think they need to reconsider their out sourcing of brakes and brake components. I noticed in message 183 on Sept 20 that "jmrbk" had his rotors covered under warranty at 18,000 km. Is that because they were warped and not rusted. I was under the impression that brakes and components were not generally covered under warranty. Anyway, will get back when Toyota is done reviewing my file.

    Keon14 :confuse:
  • jmrbkjmrbk Posts: 18
    Yes, the first time (at 18,000 miles) the rotors were warped and they did cover it under warranty. The second time, they were rusted and I had to pay for new rotors. I wrote a lengthy letter to Toyota in California and they did compensate me $400 (I spent close to $500). The way that worked, though, is once I had receipts totaling $400 or more worth of work at a Toyota service dealer, I could submit them and they would then send me a check for $400. I did that this past December and they did quickly send me the check.

    At this point, I am planning on needing to replace the rotors every 18,000 miles (which seems totallly illogical) but Toyota denied any known defects.

    Good luck! I will be interested to hear what Toyota - Canada tells you.

  • My '00 Echo has performed flawlessly from the get go...I have performed regular scheduled maintenance including oil changes (every 5K) and its a great car delivering about 40 mpg. At a recent trip to my Toyota dealer the service manager strongly encouraged the 90k mi service be done by the dealer (at a cost of ~$500). Most of the service I can do myself (air, oil filters, etc) but he insisted that the timing belt required chaging at a cost of $300. Has anyone had any bad experiences with timing belts beyond 100K mi? Should this part be routinely changed on the Echo at 90 K? Seems odd to me but I do want to continue my good service record and continue getting the excellent performance that my car has provided the last 6 years....advice please.
  • Hey Gary, do you want the goods, your Toyota dealer seem to be there for you, except one problem they forgot to tell you , are you sitting ,,, there is no timing belt ,ha its chain driven hows that for service ..nice surprise
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    $500 for the "service" is a total ripoff. PLUS the BS about needing the timing "belt" changed means these clowns are incompetant at best and downright thieves at worst. Were your valve clearances checked at 60k miles? They should be if they werent. Everything else you can probably do yourself.
  • oops -- I think I made a mistake and used "belt" when I should have said "chain". This is my error and not the Toyota guy -- is changing the timing chain required service at 90k? at a price of $300? So my question is: does the timing chain need to be routinely replaced? Valve clearance was checked at 60k -- thanks for the responses and sorry about the confusion, --Gary
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    No there is no service interval for the chain. Its possible the service guy has seen a chain break or give trouble, but I know of no one complaining about this. I would stay away from this place if I were you. You are getting bad advice here.
  • I agree with Kneisl, sounds like they are trying to soak you and who ever else on replacing the chain,
  • I just bought a 2005 Echo and the radio reception is lousy. Much worse than my previous car ('97 Geo Metro). Radio is the AM/FM only Model 1. I can get a few station well, but many are full of static or not there at all. I have seen a few postings about radios dying, but not about reception. The antenna was stuck but has been freed up and is extended all the way.

    How's your reception?

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    is great, but I am not sure my experience counts because I have an aftermarket stereo.

    You might want to check and make sure the antenna lead is still connected to the back of the stereo? If you have no AM at all, it may have come loose.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Is the car still under warranty? Let the Dealer sort it out if so.
  • I checked the antenna connection to the back of the radio and it is solid (not so my arm after bending it in there!).

    The car is still under warranty but I wanted to see if others had the same problem - that would mean a low-quality radio, not a repairable defect. And if there was an easy test/fix, I'd rather do it myself than spend a lot fo time at the dealer!

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    My 2001 ECHO with the CD and cassette radio plays excellently. I am able to get 660 WFAN fron NYC (I live near Philly) and the football Giants broadcasts quite clearly. Better in fact, than any thing I have been able to wip up in the house. When the Giants arent on TV Im usually sitting in my car.
    Tell the dealer you want a new one!
  • I got error message P0031 during an inspection today. It translates to "HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Voltage" (Bank 1 Sensor 1).

    I'd like to see if I can fix this myself. Can anyone give me any guidelines about which O2 sensor this is, and where it's located, so I can check the voltage?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I have a service manual. Tonite Ill look up the code and see if the book has anything else about it. Worth a shot but dont hold your breath the manual is pretty bad.
  • Gotcha. No breath-holding, but I appreciate the effort. Thanks. :-)
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Ok. There is no p0031 in the book. There IS p0133 which also talks about voltage at the bank1 sensor 1. I believe thatrs the same thing.
    Book says use OBN 2 scan tool to check voltage at B1S1 (oxygen sensor) during idle. Run engine 2500 rpm for 90 sec before test.
    The oxy sensor output voltage should be less than .4 volt and greater than .55 volt. It will vary constantly between these figures. But at its lowest point it cant be greater than .4 or less than .55. They show a sine wave a little over .55 and a little lower than .4.
    If sensor is good do the driving test. (skip this for now ask me later I dont understand it yet.
    BUT if the voltage is no good it says check the wiring between the ECM and the sensor for shorts or opens.
    If THAT is good check the air induction system (have to read up on that will clue you in later after test)
    If THAT is good check fuel pressure. check lines and pump and filter )more on that later if need be)
    If THAT checks out replace oxy sensor.
    Still get a p0133? Replace ECM.

    Do the voltage test if you can and get back to me. I dont understand much about this but there are proceedures what to do based on the voltage test. GOOD LUCK and ask me questions I will try to answer!
  • Right. First, thank you for your help. I don't understand most of this; although the bit about what the parameters should be for the O2 sensor are helpful.

    My first problem is that I don't know which O2 sensor I need to check; the one before the catalytic converter, or the one after. Shoot.. I'm not even sure where they're located, if I do end up having to change them.

    Can you help me with that?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Yes there are two sensors. There is a lousy picture drawing which names them but doesnt really show where they are! I would call toyota service and ask them. The name is bank 1 sensor 1. There is also bank 1 sensor 2. But your problem is bank1 sensor 1. There are two oxy sensors all you have to do is figure out which one is bank1 sensor1.
    To measure the voltage Im thinking all you have to do is use a digital volt meter. Find one of the sensors (doesnt matter which one it is) and use the + probe on the electrical connection and ground the - one to the chassis and see if you get a voltage.
    Anyway the deal is: if the voltage is GOOD tell me that andIll go on to the next step in the book. If its BAD you:
    1) check the wiring between the ECM and the sensor for shorts, dammage, etc.
    2)If the wiring checks out you check the air induction system.
    3)If the AIS is good you check the fuel pressure, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
    4) If those are good you replace the sensor.

    But thats getting ahead of ourselves. Try to find out from Toyota which of the oxy sensors is bank1 sensor1. Or just test both of them and find the one with the electrical properties that match the above. Ill try to find out the properties of bank2 sensor1 in the book tonite.
    For a shot in the dark you could just replace the sensor. How much could it be? How much will Toyota charge you just to muck about and not fix the problem?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Bank1 sensor1 is the first sensor you come to in the exhaust system. That is, following the flow of exhaust from the engine to the tailpipe. So it must be the one before the cat.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    The book further says you can disconnect the connector leading to the sensor and measure the ohms. Should be 16-20 ohms. This is true for either sensor. The connector for the second sensor is under the carper of the passanger seat if you want to check that too.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Looks like I got it a little wrong. The correct ohm reading is 11-16 ohms @ 20 degrees C.
  • fbrienfbrien Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I am interested in buying a used Echo. But I am wondering how easy it will be to have it repaired since they will not make them anymore. Also, since I live in New York (an area where I have not seen many Echos, if any...), I am not sure if it would be easy to ship a place to repair it...

    Is the Echo standard enough as part of the Toyota family that it is very easy to repair and maintain?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    the xA uses the same platform as the Echo I think, and I believe that the Yaris is very much the same as well. I'd say no problems on the Echo. Maybe in years to come you'll have to special order body panels or some of the little trim pieces.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Assuming you mean NYC yes an ECHO would be EXCELLENT to use there. Any Toyota dealer should have no problem fixing your ECHO. Nor would most repair shops for that matter.
  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    I would replace both 02 sensors before and after the cat.I have 2 echos 00 and an 03, my 00 has 155k 03 has 95k,yes these cars have a timing chain not belt.Change the engine oil religusly and trans flushed.I use synthetic oil and use the goodyear gator belt.The engines bog when you turn ac on or heaters? get a better battery.And use the gator belt it is cross cut to provide cooling and better gripping.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Have your ECHOs required valve adjustments? If so how much did the dealer charge? What parts have you replaced on your ECHOs? And what other work was necesssary? For instance, I just replaced my batteery after a little over six years. Thanks!
  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    No, none of the echos required a valve adjustments.
  • maxx124maxx124 Posts: 8
    I am in need of used parts for my echo ,body parts
    would anybody know where own would find
    like windshield washer tank ,inner right front fender
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    My 2001 Echo now has 164k miles and no valve adjustments have been necessary.
  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    The echo batteries are cheap,I bought a new battery for both my echos.I have also changed the belts,Tires,brake pads,air filters,use synthetic oil and change oil every 5k.All highway driving.
  • rcp21771rcp21771 Posts: 13
    Greetings all! I recently purchased a used 2001 Echo with 85K miles. The car runs great, drives great and gets great gas mileage. I couldnt be happier. I have one question though. When the engine idles, it ticks. It's not severe, but there is a slight ticking noise. A few people have told me that this is common with Toyotas and 4 cylinders in particular. Just curious if anybody has any input on the matter. Thanks all!
  • Mine (2005) has a slightly rough idle when stopped and in gear, but no ticking. Ticking could be low-quality fuel, valve lifter needing adjustment (or sticking), loose bit of metal that vibrates at low idle, lots of things. Poor fuel usually makes a tick at higher speeds or when the engine is under load, so I'd first open the hood and try to isolate the tick. If it seems to be coming from the engine, try a fuel cleaner.

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    At 60k miles there is a valve adjustment check to be performed. Its prolly expensive but i wrote a piece in the regular ECHO forum about how to check them yourself.
  • rcp21771rcp21771 Posts: 13
    I recently had the ATF changed on my 2001 Echo. When the engine is hot and I check the dipstick, the level is right up to the "HOT" mark. However, when I check the flid level when the engine is cold (engine off for 6-8 hours), the fluid level is much higher than the "HOT" mark. Is this normal? I would have thought that the level would be down around the "COOL" mark. Anybody have any thoughts on the matter? Thanks!
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