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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    While I apologize for not being of any assistance, as I have only ever driven manuals, I just thought I would say how gratifying it is to see someone who is still checking their underhood fluid levels periodically. Kudos! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I dont have a clue either. Sounds freaky! I gotta believe though that since the transmission oil is at the right level when the trans is hot, and thats how the trans runs all the time, you are OK!
  • rodvcrodvc Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I have a 2001 manual Echo with 42k miles on the clock. I live in Long Island , NY & recently I have noticed that when I press & depress on the clutch pedal there is a 'sqeaking' noise.

    A friend has told me that it may be the 'clutch release cylinder' & that the piston may need 'greasing'. I wondered if anyone had any thoughts on this ?

    Thanks.

    Rod
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    No the release cylinder has no requirements to be greased. That aint it. It could be the release bearing. It could also be the clutch itself where the release bearing contacts. Drive it till it dont drive no more.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,694
    If it is an internal squeak, just lube the pivot points of the pedal under the dash, and put some lithium grease on the cylinder actuator rod. It is shiny metal rod from the pedal that goes into a rubber gasket before going through the firewall into the engine compartment.
  • rodvcrodvc Posts: 5
    Thanks. I mentioned the clutch release cylinder as I have a copy of the Echo manual ( from e bay ) & it states that the piston attached to the push rod inside in the rubber boot needs to be greased.
    It appears to be a case of disconnecting the clutch line & then undoing the release cylinder bolts.
    I am not mechanically savvy & just wanted to make sure I had covered all my options .
    As suggested , I will lubricate the clutch inside the car & hope that that is it.
    Thanks for your help & other comments greatfully received.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Tell us what happens!
  • rjgeerjgee Posts: 27
    Proper testing is to have the engine on, and warmed up to operating temperature, and to have shifted through the gears. If the engine isn't up to normal temp, dipstick reading can be towards the 'cool' reading... but the key is having the engine on.
  • brian50brian50 Posts: 2
    Hi all. My mother has a 2004 Echo hatch back. Twice in the past year she has been driving down a hwy and has in her words "the passenger side front tire locks up for several seconds and then goes away". I've tried to get a more informative answer from her,but she finds it very unnerving when it happens as she was in very bad accident which took the lives of my sister and grandfather. All I can tell you is it is either a grinding or screeching sound and causes some pulling in the steering wheel. The dealership has looked at it after both incidents and could find nothing wrong. Needless to say I feel very bad about the whole thing as I know she depends on her car for her freedom and the fact that I talked her in to buying it thinking it was safe and reliable. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I would suspect either the wheel bearings or the brake caliper pistons seizeing.. Possibly a stone is getting in the brake works somehow. How many miles on the car? Also...you need to check out Mom. What does she mean the wheel locks up? If it "locked up" there would be violent loss of control and the tire woud be heavily scored. Also I doubt it would just go away. I would remove the wheel myself and check for scoreing on the disc, the wheel not turning freely, the pads shot. Something is happening but I doubt the wheel is locking up.
    Tell us what happens!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'd check for loose caliper bolts or sticking caliper slides.
  • maxx124maxx124 Posts: 8
    how about front wheel bearings, mine went on the drivers side, sounded like it was going to lock up,, not cheap to replace
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I guess if they were really whacked out, and could make the rotor wobble....??
  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Toyota Echo and one day i went out there and my car wouldn't start. So I went out and bought a new battery,nothing. My headlights will come on but no other electric item will come on in my car. I was told its either my starter that went out or some electric problem. I dont want to take it to a shop right yet w/o knowing any idea. So if any help i appreciate it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Do you get dashboard indicator/warning lights when you turn the key on?
  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    no, no radio or anything other than headlights.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Okay next test...keep the headlights on and crank the key. Do the headlights dim or stay the same?

    If they stay the same, I'm wondering if you have some sort of fusible link coming off the battery, prior to the fuse box.

    If they dim considerably, then the new battery is either not charged or you have poor cable connections.

    By all means test your cable connections and also where the ground cable connects to the engine or frame.
  • brian50brian50 Posts: 2
    Hi,when I spoke to my mom I really couldn't get a solid answer out of her as she was so upset when it happened. Her Echo has about 4800 miles on it. I don't think it's a bearing as I'm sure it would have dissintergrated by now and the tire would have fallen off. I agree that she would have spun out of control if her tire had locked up. So I'm guessing it was a small rock or possibly a loose rivet from the brake pad. I'm not sure about the brake caliper as the first time it happened it was in a gradual curve and the second time it was on a straight away. I would think if the caliper was sticking that it wouldn't have happened when she was going straight. I'll try and have a look at the rotor but do you think there would be much scoring if it had been a rock? Thanx,B.
  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    yes they stay the same they dont dim
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    So if you're getting no dash lights whatsoever then no current to the key and nothing to the fuse box either....hmmmm....seems to me if it were just a neutral safety switch in the transmission or a brake safety switch that's defective you'd still get dash lights when you switched to the "ON" position with the key as well as various buzzers and chimes...

    I guess you'll have to ask Toyota if there is some fusible link between the battery and the fuse box.

    I'm kinda lost without a wiring diagram.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    CHECK YOUR FUSES FIRST! It could also be your ignition lock. Really this is something a competant shop should be able to fix 1 2 3.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    YES there would be scoring. A lot of scoring. The fact that the car has 4800 miles on it argues AGAINST there being a mechanical problem. (although there could be) You said it yourself: your Mom was in a terrible car accident recently. I suspect that is whats driving this. Its almost impossible the wheel is LOCKING UP because there would have been an accident. If the car has been checked out by a good nechanic he would have found any obvious defect. Something is making a noise and your Mother is, understandably, made very upset by it. Hopefully you will be in the car the next time it happens and will be better able to get some idea of what is going on.
  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    what i might also try to do is replace the fuses and see if that will work. but so far thank you for the help :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Sure why not. That's easy and cheap.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    OK check the fuses all of them but also check the ignition switch. When they go bad there can be a total loss of power. Good luck and tell us how you fixed it!
  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    well here is the update, i replaced the fuses inside the engine and now the car will start and everything is great on that. Well here is the other problem i still have no brake lights,radio,dash,anything dealing inside the car. I replaced those fuses also but nothing im so frustrated right now :mad:
    Also when i am driving and right when it goes into the next gear it jumps, maybe since its been sitting for a couple of days i dont know.If not one thing its another.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Still sounds like fuse issues...I"m not sure if your transmission shifts are electronically regulated...

    can you read the chart in the fuse box or in your owner's manual. Can you see any relationship between radio, dashlights, brake lights? For instance, is it the same fuse? Or two adjacent fuses controlling these systems?
  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 echo that has over 200,000 miles on it. The check engine light has been on for over 4 years. I was told it was an issue for this model. the computer is faulty. I cannot however, get it smogged due to this. The codes keep coming up random misfire, bad catalytic converter, and I've already put $1000. into it. the maf or mas air sensor has been replaced, the spark plugs, the coils, the transmission fluid changed. With each trip to the dealer I leave and 20 miles later the light comes back on, only with a new code. Mind you, one code at a time. Now it is saying the cat it bad. Well, I have a hard time believing that the cat is really bad when the car passes the emission part of the smog test. Has anyone else had problems like this with their echo? I also have electrical problems,the radio, overhead light, dingers, warning light that my brights are on all went out. I smelled electrical burning and tried to replace fuses but they blew immediatley. Can the electrical be causing faulty codes in the computer, possibly due to a bad "ground?" I don't know too much about cars, but I need to fix this. Otherwise, does anyone know anyway around the check engine light being on and throwing out codes, and getting it to pass smog? It passes the visual and the emissions part, but fails the "check engine light" part.
    thanks,
    steph
  • kosarinkosarin Posts: 14
    i had the same problem when i first bought my 2000....since it was still under warranty, kept taking it back to dealer but it would still malfunction...they finally figured out there was a design-flaw and they replaced w/new design for free...not sure if it was o2 sensor or computer...ask your dealer to check w/ technical service bulletins issued in late 2000, i think
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You might be able to take the car to a state referee and have it waived due to the money you've already spent to fix what seems to be quite unfixable at the moment. Call your DMV and find out.
  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    thanks, I have that bulletin and when my car was still under warranty, they replaced the computer twice for free. now out of warranty, i'm not sure what to do. i really don't feel that there is anything wrong, just faulty computer. thanks for the info.
    steph
  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    thank you, I have tried that as well and they are unable to help.
    steph
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'm suprised to hear that. This is California or ???
  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    Yes, California. Do you have insight I'm unaware of?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I was under the impression that if you fail smog you are only required to spend a certain amount of money and that once spent, you can petition a referee to waive your smog certification for that one period of time.

    See this:

    http://www.redwoodgeneral.com/smog_check.htm
  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    This is true. I talked with the referee but he couldn't help until 2008 because that is when it is due for smog again. I have been trying to fix this since March of 2006. Since it is after one year, I cannot go through referee until 2008. I was told they no longer waive the smog certificate and that in 2008 (Jan) the state will no longer allow D.M.V. to issue those colorful red squares of "extension". If the car doesn't pass smog they want it off the road "end of story". This is what I was recently told at the D.M.V. True or not...? We'll see.
    In order to get help right now, they gave me another 800# to call and it was brought to my attention that I had to go off of a special list of repair shops that could do the repairs and found that out after the $1000 I've already spent. But, here's the good news~after spending another $450.00 on more diagnostics (that will do no good)they would then help out with $500.00 towards costs of repairs, and give me a 2 year extension. However, I have to spend the $450.00 first and the 2 yr extension at this point will only get me until March 2008 and after the $500 they will throw in for repair, the rest of any and all expense is mine.
  • tmr263tmr263 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Toyota echo 5spd 4dr sedan. I just bought it a couple months ago for a 1000$ and all it really needed was a new clutch and fly wheel, i got those fixed and replaced, drive home was smooth, but then the next day i whent to drive it and now it grinds really bad when i turn left and i can't figure out what it is. I'm not that great with cars. And the spedometer quit working, the mechanic said it was the plug or something, but i think i should be able to get that fixed fairly easy.
  • hey guys, i've got a 2001 echo and it has been great. it has 200,000k recently the engine began shaking and i've been told it is either the serpintine belt or a motor mount issue. i've been looking under the hood and i can see at least two bolts missing in various places- only one is on a motor mount, but it is one of three bolts. i would really like to replace the missing bolt, but it doesn't match the other so how in the heck do i get the specifics on a bolt!????! anyone know anything about a serpintine belt?????!!!!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    KY999: I dont know about the bolt but I imagine Toyota would. The ECHO doesnt have a serpentine belt though.
    tmr263 I would check the CV joint on the front axle near the left wheel. The rubber boot may be shot and the joint destroyed.
  • the engine shakes the same in idle as it does while driving...my thought was that if it were the cv joint it would only matter while driving. any other thoughts?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I think kneisl1's CV joint response was directed to somebody else.

    As for your engine shaking, I cannot imagine how a bad belt would do anything like that, but as kneisl mentioned, the Echo doesn't use a serpentine belt, and the engine shaking at idle and when rolling is almost certainly a bad or loose engine mount. Replacing that bolt might be difficult without replacing the mount itself, which doesn't cost all that much.

    Now I am assuming there that the engine is running fine, not idling up and down because of some other sensor or computer problem. If the sound of the engine at idle is even and it is just that you feel lots of vibrations inside, then get that engine mount replaced.

    tmr263: your problem could also be a sticking brake caliper at the front, which has ground out and is now catching and making horrendous sounds when you turn.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • vrcohanimvrcohanim Posts: 2
    I just got a Toyota Echo 2000, can't drive the car until blue cold light is turned off
    (I live in Florida) otherwise it will hesitate and stall. Does any one know why?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Possibly there is a bad temp sensor. Does the check engine light come one? I would look in the computer for fault codes. Auto Zone will read the computer for free. Hows the mileage?
  • vrcohanimvrcohanim Posts: 2
    thanks so much for the information, yes the car check engine light is always on and the car has 95000 miles,does it make any difference? I will take the car to Auto Zone for a computerize check, but wanted to know if it is something I can correct my self since my financial situation is dismal.
    thanks so much again for your time.
    Lisa
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I strongly suspect the check engine light being on is responsible for the problem. Well, I mean whatever is causing it to be on. It doesnt matter what the mileage is really. If you get lucky fixing what the CEL says to fix will solve the problem. Tell us what AZ says the fault code is. Maybe you can do something yourself.
  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    Make sure that the valves do not need servicing. I have a 2000 echo that I will be retiring. The check engine light is on and I have spent $1100.00 to find out that the valve was tight and caused the catalytic converter to burn up. Which is a very pricey fix! So make sure that is not it. If you catch it early, it is not so expensive to fix. Once the cat is burnt...it's very expensive. Check also for the bulletin on 2000 echo's out in Dec 15, 2000. Your symptoms sound familiar to what mine was doing. I hope for you, it is an easy fix. Echo's are great cars and will last forever if you treat them right.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I would look in junk yards for a cat. You can look in lots of them on the internet until you find one and they will mail it to you. How much for a new one? A lot of people have asked about maintenance and the 60k mile valve clearance check is often overlooked. A good reason to do it.
  • dsemerydsemery Posts: 5
    2003 Echo, most of the 89k miles are highway, rest are rural. Rear wheel bearings have been making noise that is getting louder. When manually turned does not feel smooth, suspect some spalling on the rollers/balls, whatever is inside.

    Units are more than bearings, integral with brake and wheel mounting faces; pricy thru dealer at $175 each. Anyone had experience rebuilding one of these? Got plenty free time for sweat equity.

    I see the home-owners shop guide is refered to here as service/repair manual, thanks for the postings on that folks.
  • dsemerydsemery Posts: 5
    2003 eacho, manual tranny, 14" wheel option; 89k miles.

    Pads and shoes replaced ca 55k, inspected and pads replaced last month. When inspected pads and shoes had lots of life left per the indicator grooves (only half worn).

    Problem is excessive vibration when braking at speed, does not always occur, but when it occurs is worse than ABS (which I dont have). No noise I can tell.

    Was surprised at the amount of play in the rotor, is this normal?

    Surface of rotor was lightly scarred, didnt have it turned, cant afford that now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'd try a wrecking yard. So they are part of a hub assembly, is that it? I suppose you can remove the hub off the dumb beam axle back there, and have a machine shop press in a new bearing. You can often match bearings up by # or cross-reference.
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