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2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have a 2001 manual Echo with 42k miles on the clock. I live in Long Island , NY & recently I have noticed that when I press & depress on the clutch pedal there is a 'sqeaking' noise.
A friend has told me that it may be the 'clutch release cylinder' & that the piston may need 'greasing'. I wondered if anyone had any thoughts on this ?
Thanks.
Rod
It appears to be a case of disconnecting the clutch line & then undoing the release cylinder bolts.
I am not mechanically savvy & just wanted to make sure I had covered all my options .
As suggested , I will lubricate the clutch inside the car & hope that that is it.
Thanks for your help & other comments greatfully received.
Tell us what happens!
If they stay the same, I'm wondering if you have some sort of fusible link coming off the battery, prior to the fuse box.
If they dim considerably, then the new battery is either not charged or you have poor cable connections.
By all means test your cable connections and also where the ground cable connects to the engine or frame.
I guess you'll have to ask Toyota if there is some fusible link between the battery and the fuse box.
I'm kinda lost without a wiring diagram.
Also when i am driving and right when it goes into the next gear it jumps, maybe since its been sitting for a couple of days i dont know.If not one thing its another.
can you read the chart in the fuse box or in your owner's manual. Can you see any relationship between radio, dashlights, brake lights? For instance, is it the same fuse? Or two adjacent fuses controlling these systems?
thanks,
steph
steph
steph
See this:
http://www.redwoodgeneral.com/smog_check.htm
In order to get help right now, they gave me another 800# to call and it was brought to my attention that I had to go off of a special list of repair shops that could do the repairs and found that out after the $1000 I've already spent. But, here's the good news~after spending another $450.00 on more diagnostics (that will do no good)they would then help out with $500.00 towards costs of repairs, and give me a 2 year extension. However, I have to spend the $450.00 first and the 2 yr extension at this point will only get me until March 2008 and after the $500 they will throw in for repair, the rest of any and all expense is mine.
tmr263 I would check the CV joint on the front axle near the left wheel. The rubber boot may be shot and the joint destroyed.
As for your engine shaking, I cannot imagine how a bad belt would do anything like that, but as kneisl mentioned, the Echo doesn't use a serpentine belt, and the engine shaking at idle and when rolling is almost certainly a bad or loose engine mount. Replacing that bolt might be difficult without replacing the mount itself, which doesn't cost all that much.
Now I am assuming there that the engine is running fine, not idling up and down because of some other sensor or computer problem. If the sound of the engine at idle is even and it is just that you feel lots of vibrations inside, then get that engine mount replaced.
tmr263: your problem could also be a sticking brake caliper at the front, which has ground out and is now catching and making horrendous sounds when you turn.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
(I live in Florida) otherwise it will hesitate and stall. Does any one know why?
thanks so much again for your time.
Lisa
Units are more than bearings, integral with brake and wheel mounting faces; pricy thru dealer at $175 each. Anyone had experience rebuilding one of these? Got plenty free time for sweat equity.
I see the home-owners shop guide is refered to here as service/repair manual, thanks for the postings on that folks.
Pads and shoes replaced ca 55k, inspected and pads replaced last month. When inspected pads and shoes had lots of life left per the indicator grooves (only half worn).
Problem is excessive vibration when braking at speed, does not always occur, but when it occurs is worse than ABS (which I dont have). No noise I can tell.
Was surprised at the amount of play in the rotor, is this normal?
Surface of rotor was lightly scarred, didnt have it turned, cant afford that now.