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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair



  • i have been looking for workshop mnaual for my echo for ages and just browsing thru this forum i found your reply for echo_gurl if it is possible could i obtain a copy of it as well because im am need for some repairs to my echo and basically need some info on it.thank scottyg
  • i got a 2000 echo 2door manual i seen that sum recomended cleaning the mass airflow sensor i did it and did not help i have a aftermarket short ram air system and when i start my car i still have the same problem lost acceleration even when the car is hot the engine light came on a few time but not since i cleaned the sensor could it be the aftermarket intake because it pulling more air??? i tried everything does someone know what can cause this problem ??? thanks in advance for your reply
  • their may a exaust leak just before the second oxygen sensor i hear a houling sound when i give it some gas could it be the affect of the lost of acceleration during the 3-4 seconds it happends every time i stop and go
  • TUVM for the clutch info. Approximately how much will an independent repair shop charge me for the clutch rebuild parts and also what is fair for number of hours/labor cost?

    My valve lifters are noisy and is there any reliable chemical
    I can use that is not snake oil?

    BYW, I have switched to Castrol synthetic oil and K+N oil
    filters and I am very happy.

    Now, I just need to put in the iridium spark plugs...

    Man, tires are getting expensive these days. The high cost
    of gasoline?
  • contact me at and I will send you a copy of the manual.
  • reba05reba05 Posts: 36
    I will be taking advantage of this recall in about a week or so, as the dealer orders a specific part needed when people call to set appts. I am choosing to do this because I am selling this car and want everything up to par. I will make note if I have any negative issues.
  • joel10joel10 Posts: 2

    I have a 2001 Echo and would like to get a copy of your Workshop Manual.


  • I have a CV joint going on the driver’s side. I have been told I would be better off replacing the entire axle assembly. The assembly is reasonably priced but I'm not sure if I'll need special tools or how hard it will be.

    Anyone know if I need special tools and what is involved????

    Thanks for your help,

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Getting the new axle half-shaft into the transaxle requires special tools, and I doubt you could do it unless you are a trained mechanic and have done it before. This is a job that is best left to the professionals, IMHO.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Thanks for your input, its greatly appreciated.
  • Greets. I have a 2000 toyota echo with 106,600 miles. I have had the engine rebuilt at 23,000 miles due to an engine oil sludge problem. About two thousand miles ago, I had to have the pick up filter cleaned from residual sludge. I have been running synthetic ever since and it seems to be doing alright. Lately, I had noticed a whine or a squeak while engine was running. It could be very loud at times. It seemed worse when the engine was cold or when first running, and seemed to get better as the car was used.(within ten miles or so.)As of yesterday, I noticed the "squeak" was gone but it is replaced with a loud clacking noise, not apparent while engine is idling but noticeable as car is moving. The longer it runs the worse it gets. It is worse also with acceleration and gets better when I let off gas and slow down. Does anyone have any ideas what this may be??? :confuse:
  • check your oil if its low it may be a lack of oil on youre valves
  • I have a '00 Echo, and the radio has gone out on it too. Well, the radio lights up, and I can change stations and what-not, but it doens't produce any sounds. I tried a different radio, but it has the same issue. Did you ever get your radio working?

  • I have a 2001 Toyota Echo. The Hood latch is loose and barely "pops" open the hood. Is there anyway to tighten the cable or what has to be done?

    Thank you
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    If you can reach the cable from the engine compartment or under the car. Pull the cable all the way to one side at the point of greatest slack and then secure it to the car with a cable tie.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,833
    The cable is probably stretched. You might be able to adjust the cable at the latch end with a set screw. I have a Scion and mine may be different, but you might poke around in there and see if the cable has a "pull-through" block on the end of it at the hood latch, like they use on some bicycles to shorten the cable.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

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  • stdbobstdbob Posts: 14
    I'm currious. I have an 02 Echo with 121,000 miles and have replaced brakes (at 100K)and a front wheel bearing (at 115K).
    Other than brakes what else have you had to do to your Echo?
  • jmrbkjmrbk Posts: 18
    02 Echo also. ~42,000 miles. Have had to replace rotors 2x. Front brakes, too.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    a year ago at 60K miles, it had just had a new battery and front brake pads installed (was about 3 years old at that point). It is almost at 80K now, have not had to repair a thing so far. I am kinda hoping that track record continues for at least one more year. :-)

    PS Mine is also an '02, first registered for the road in October '02.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    My ECHO was delivered 11/12/00 and is now over six years old. It has 35k miles on it currently. The only thing that wore out are the windshield wipers, twice. Everything else is origional. The sparkplugs, AF, transmission oil, coolant, brake fluid, and front tires have been replaced. (the tires were still good treadwise. I just chenged them on suspision they were causing really bad handeling in snow) As our ECHOs age I STRONGLY RECOMMEND you change the oil yourself three times a year and inspect the vehicle per the 30k inspection schedule in the owners manual once a year. Especially the axle CV joint boots every oil change as youll need to replace the entire axle if you discover the boots are shot a year later.
  • I have a 02 echo, 37K, and haven't had any problems until recently. When I accelorate, there is a clicking, almost a vibration noise, when coming up on 15 mph, and again on 35 mph. But then fine after that. Also when I'm in drive, but stopped, sometimes, mostly in the morning when it's cold, it will do the vibrating, clicking noise. It will stop when I switch into park. I've taken it to a shop, and they've looked it over and can't see anything wrong, and just said the sound was, "weird". I did have a tune up, 30K service done on it recently, but the sound started about 2 weeks after, so I'm not sure if they're related. I dont want to spend a lot of money to have someone take my car apart and not find anything. Has this happend to anyone else? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been driving with it for 2 weeks now, without it getting better or worse. Help?
  • I have a 2000 Echo with 168k miles on it. For a long time, while going on the freeway there is cold air coming in on the passagener side. It is more noticeable in the winter due to the air being colder outside. Is there a solution for that? It is a great car and very little maintence has been needed. Please help. Thank you ;)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Have you checked the weather-stripping on that door? That would be my bet - either it is broken, or it is just not working effectively any more due to its age (there will have been lots of door opening and closing in 168K miles!). It shouldn't cost much to have a shop redo the weatherstripping, and it will help keep moisture out of the car too. I assume the air is not coming through the vent, right?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Did they check the tirs for a bolt or nail in them? That will make a clicking noise. Id also check the boots on the CV joints (axles) If the axle goes bad it will click also but usually on curves.
  • The nose isn't coming from my tires, it sounds like it's coming from the driver's side dash.
    Today while driving it on the freeway, I noticed when I would let off the gas and coast, it would make the sound, but sounded like something was squeeking as it rotated. Taking the car on curves doesn't seem to have any significant effect to the sound, but I'll have the axles checked regaurdless. Thank you very much for the advice. I'll go from here.
  • That is a great idea about replaceing the weather stripping, but the cold air is coming from the center counsol. I should have made that more clear. Thanks
  • I`ve got a 2000 Echo. I had a high pitched squeal when I tried to accelerate quickly, or the weather was damp.

    Tried a new aftermarket belt, but that did not help. I chewed that belt up within 2 months. Upon investigation, I found that the power steering pump or water pump, ( I can`t remember at this point) was misaligned with the plane of the belt, causing the belt to ride the edge of the pully. I shimmed one side with a washer and tried a new belt once again. The belt lasted, but still squealed although not as much. I then went with the Toyota belt and have had no problems since. The Toyota belt seems to have a fuzzy surface that rides the pully. I`m guessing that is why it is quieter.
  • I have a 2000 Echo sedan with 250,000 kms on it. Love the car and have never had any mechanical problems. A few years ago I did encounter a slight pinging sound at low speed and low load. It sounded like the timing was off. I know these cars have the variable valve timing and adjustments are non-existent. I did the routine maintenance by changing plugs, air filter, etc. The problem did not completely go away. It turned out to be belts that were loose and slipping. I had the belts tightened in the meantime but eventually replaced all the belts with Toyota parts. All went well until about two months ago. The pinging has returned and now I notice it at all times and all speeds. On the highway there is no pinging unless I put the car under slight acceleration. I never go over 100 kph. I have had the belts tightened and cleaned but the problem still persists.

    Any ideas?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,833
    Could be carbonization in the combustion chambers (this has the effect of raising your compression ratio) or possibly could be a faulty knock sensor that is supposed to adjust your timing as you drive?

    You might try using premium gas and see if that temporarily cures the problem. Using premium might be cheaper than digging into the car to fix it otherwise.

    Slight pinging is okay, but continual pinging under load is dangerous for an engine.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

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  • Thank you Mr. Shiftright. I will go with the premium gas solution first. Using premium fuel wouldn't eliminate the carbonization, would it? All the 250,000 kms are highway miles so I wouldn't think carbonization should be an issue. As for the knock sensor....where would it be located and is it just a feature of the computer?

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