More and more of the new autos are coming from the factory as "plain janes". If any of you all out there need either painted body side moldings to protect your auto from dents. Drop me a line. Vinyl moldings are also available, at lesser cost, but are not guaranteed to match.
I am a new inexperienced driver and have a 1 month old 2008 Honda Fit.
I got into a minor accident in a car park when I collided into a stationary car while making a left turn. Now the front left side of the car's body is dented. It is the part just next to the front left head light. Some of the paint have peeled off. The head light is not damage and there is only a little scratch on the transparent plastic hood of the head light. There is no other damage to the car.
My insurance is with Progressive and the deductible is high ($1k), so I think I will have to pay for all the repair expenses and not be able to claim anything.
For the repair of the car, should I send it to the Progressive service center, or to the Honda dealer that I bought the car from (which is a reputable dealer)?
My main concern is to get a proper repair, and though cost is also a concern, it is not the most important factor.
Well, the decision starts with getting an estimate - if it is under the deductible, I'd probably not involve the insurance company... the one thing that I am curious about is the "stationary vehicle". Did you leave the scene, leave a note, wait for the owner etc? At this point you are looking at repairing damage to two cars, yes?
Well, after the accident, I waited for the owner of the other car and when he came back, we exchanged our insurance information, and then he went off. I then called Progressive and informed them about the accident.
First, Big Kudos to you for doing the responsible thing and waiting - many would not have.
As for the repair, I would ask the dealer which body shop they use. I would get an estimate from them directly, and I would get an estimate from one other reputable shop. I'd probably not deal with the ins co, unless the number was significantly above my deductible.
Reading further is optional.....
As to the insurance thing, not sure what the rules are where you are, however in my state it works like this: Both people report the matter to their own insurance carriers, and file claims through them. The carriers pay their own insured, and then the carries discuss percentage of fault etc with each other, and come to settlement that way. So in short, if he files a claim, your carrier ultimately pays to have his car fixed. His insurance rates are not affected. Even if you do not file a claim (repair cost under deductible etc), you might be affected if they had to pay out to repair his car.
I'm not sure what the rules are around the fact that they know about the incident, if that affects you, and I'm sure that wiser heads on the Insurance boards can help, if you are interested.
I am in PA and the other person is from NY, and he is insured under Geico. I have asked Progressive and was told that they will settle the claim from the other person and that is transparent to me.
I think my insurance premium will definitely go up the next time I am to renew it. I just hope it will not be a big jump
In the end I sent the car to Progressive's service center, because the entire process with them is much simpler.
They gave me a very detailed estimate after about two hours (which is accessible online, 6 pages long) and the total is about $1600, approximately $600 for parts and $800 for labor. When I first saw the cost I almost fell off my chair. To me, they are replacing quite a number of parts. For example, to me from outside the left headlight looks perfectly fine and it is still fully functional, but I was that when they examined it they found the mounting inside damaged and so the entire headlight has to be replaced. I am not too sure what I am going to do with the damaged headlight after they return it to me. I might try to turn it into an expensive spot light (:
Anyway, I have found the experience so far with Progressive to be positive. They are professional, and when I enquired about the cost they told me that they will give me all the receipts for the parts purchased, so everything seems very transparent. I guess the only thing I don't have control over is the labor cost for repair.
My wife called up our Honda dealer too and they told us that usually the insurance company will be able to repair for less. Overall, we were just quite shock to find that a repair which we deem quite simple and straight-forward could cost about 10% of the price of the car. The lesson learnt is that we now have to drive very very very carefully.
What is the best method to remove water spots on windshields? I looked online and came across a product called "Spot X". I believed this product is sold in Washington state. I lived on the east coast. I was wondering if anybody that lives on the east coast have ever tried this product. I like to hear your responses on Spot X, good or bad.
On a 2Dr (important point) Chevrolet Blazer, the rear quarter panel outer skin was replaced on a vehicle I bought. The outer skin was spot welded on, looks like a good job. Problem is, on the rear seat flip out window opening, the alignment wasn't quite right and there is an air leak. It looks like the seam where the inner and outer panel are welded needs to move out about 1/8th of an inch.
How would this be done? Drill the welds, realign, and re-weld/paint?
Something like that it sounds like itd be easier to pad the window opening. If you have the know how to do all the drilling and welding yourself go for it, otherwise id probably try to do a patch job on it.
Don't use "wax" on a car. Wax has microscopic abrasives in it.
Use 1 and only 1 polish. It is called "Liquid Glass." You can find it at NAPA or Pep Boys. Trust me or see for yourself. Go to a car show, and I mean a top dollar show and ask the owners of these fine 100K cars what they use on the finish. The last time I went to the "Cavalcade of Wheels" all I saw were cans of Liquid Glass. It will even fill in the swirl marks in your clearcoat. It is a bit expensive, but withh all things, "you get what you pay for."
I have a dent in the corner of my rear bumper, I can't pound it out with the bumper on and I really don't want to take it off. Does anyone know of a tool I can get to pull it out ?
If it's a newer car with plastic bumper skins, I don't believe they are very pull-able, only pushable and fill-able. Most people replace the skin and re-paint it. Sometimes you can find these mobile guys who repair bumpers for dealerships and I tell you, for $150 bucks they do a pretty nice job (as opposed to a $600 repair at a body shop). But there's no telling how long this quickie repair will look good. I had mine done and after one year it looked just fine, and it had a softball sized dent in it. They didn't take it off. Didn't see how they got the dent out but I know they use fillers.
I guess my first question is what type of vehical is it on? If its a plastic bumper just carefully take the bumper off heat it up slowly with a hair dryer and push the indent out. If its a truck/metal bumper climb under with a rounded piece of wood or hard plastic and hit it with a hammer.
Ever think you know something and then have someone tell you something different? OK here's a basic question: Just What is Clearcoat and how do you tell weather your particular car has it?
I thought I knew but now I'm not sure.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Clear coat is paint without pigment. The vast majority of cars have it today.
You can test your car to see if it has clear coat by finding a hidden area and after making sure it is very clean, wipe it with a cotton cloth and a little bit of paint cleaner on it. If the paint color shows up on the cloth, you probably don't have clear coat.
You can test your car to see if it has clear coat by finding a hidden area and after making sure it is very clean, wipe it with a cotton cloth and a little bit of paint cleaner on it. If the paint color shows up on the cloth, you probably don't have clear coat.
Without going down the list of every manufacturer's paint processes, in general all modern cars use a 2 step "basecoat/clearcoat" process - I'd say everything in at least the last 10 years.
I remember reading somewhere that about 95% of the world's cars have clear coat now. I assumed that the original poster was talking about an older car.
I was just wondering if any body has ever had parked their car near a construction site that was spraying polyurethane foam insulation and got it on their car? My wife was parked at work and the construction site next to them was doing this. We have a 2006 Colorado truck and we're trying to decide whether or not to repaint or should we try having it removed so we keep the factory paint job? So far the insurance company and body shop have claybarred some of the hood and waxed it just as a trial, but it still seems to be there. Any ideas? Thanks, Tom :mad:
Usually the clear coat on a car is thick enough and solid enough to use LIGHT paint thinner to take it off. First though id try a high speed buffer with rubbing compund before more drastic measures.
I understand it is possible to polish old headlight lenses to make them look clear and new again. What would you folks use on some really dull 12 years old ones? Or is this a lost cause?
Also is there anything special you can put on new lenses to prevent them from dulling up? :confuse:
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Hi, the other last after diner with my friend, when he open the door at the passenger side next to the driver, he opened it too wide and the bottom of the door stick on the pavement. I still don't understand why he kept trying to close the door when he was sitting on the passenger as this caused scratch to the bottom of the door. I got the car at the beginning of the year so it's still pretty new. It killed me to see what he did. He only steped out of the car so that the door can be closed after his third try. Now I found scratch at the bottom of the door. It's not very visible but I'm afraid the scratch will expand as the paint got off if I ignore it. What should I do? Thanks!!
For one the scratch wont expand, the scratch will only go as far as it was originally scratched. What you will want to do is see how deep the scratch is. If it went thru the the clear coat and the paint down to primer or metal then you do have a serious issue with rust. Take a close look at it or have a body shop check and see how deep the scratch went and make your move from there.
It's been a long time since I owned a new car so bear with me.
Asked the dealer if he had any touch-up paint for the dings which are sure to occur. He said they don't have touch-up paint in the little bottles anymore. he said they are more like a Magic Marker.
What's up with that? How do you apply that? Does it cover and last like the little nail polish bottles they used to have?
Man, it stinks to be so out of the loop.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
The dispenser is like a little "click-ball" that you press into the scratch. Actually works pretty well. But of course you'll always see it if you look closely (depending where it is).
How do I remove "Silly String" off my van without damaging paint and clear coat? Already tried soap and water, did not help. It's been 48 hours or more since it was sprayed.
This is stubborn stuff. DON'T use your fingernails. Try to wash it with water pressure. If the string is dyed, it might leave a light stain on the paint. In that case go at it with:
Meguiar’s Professional Clay Bar (approximately $24.99), which is ideal for handling contaminated paint surfaces. Begin the process with a product such as Pinnacle Clay Lubricant, which will allow the Clay Bar to spread a lot easier.
Yep, it's about $35 in materials and a few hours work perhaps, but it's cheaper than a new paint job.
the body shop said i can save alot of money by removeing the old paint myself on my 68 mustang than another said removing all the paint might not be nessary which should i believe?
Unless you are doing a complete color change, and unless the old paint is totally screwed up with rust, checking, etc., you might not in fact have to remove all the old paint.
If you DO though, the shop is right--it's a long arduous task. Don't underestimate the hours, days, even weeks of work involved to strip a car to bare metal. Or the god-awful mess of it. Or the toxicity of the process.
Have the shop do it for the simple reason it would take you a few days to do and in that time the bare metal could start to rust. Most shops can strip the car and primer it to aviod the rust issue before it starts.
Getting into the car yesterday my wife stepped in gum and dragged a long string of it over the rocker panel and door sill. I of course tried to wipe it off with a tissue and smeared it all over the rocker panel.
Any suggestions on how to get it off without scratching the paint? :sick:
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
i just got a 88 honda prelude. there is rusting at the driver side rear quarter panel where the main frame meets the rear bumper and on the passanger side front and rear quarter panel now. some are easy to fix but the ones on the rear quarter panels are a bit harder, because they are actually almost holes. so any good ideas on how to fix it. i do my own work on vehicles since its cheaper but i just want to know the best way.
You have to find used panels from a wrecking yard, cut out your old rust and weld in the new cleaned up panels. Or if you are good with a torch, weld on an entire rear clip from a donor car.
Rust never sleeps. You have to surgically remove it or you are wasting your time with fillers, cover-ups, etc.
Listen to Shifty...hes dead on, although i dont agree totally with the clipping a car. (bigger pain in the rear then its worth) Find a clean quarter cut out the rusted out area and probably about four inches either side of it to get the rust you cant see, and weld in the new piece.
Will regular washing at an automatic car wash do and harm to the paint?
I ask this because a woman at work has a car that is identical to mine. I hand wash and she almost always uses the local automatic wash. I noticed some really bad swirls in the paint on her hood while mine is still like a mirror.
Granted her car is two years older than mine but I wonder if the automatic wash did that.
What do the experts say?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
I can pretty much guarantee you that the swirl marks came from the car wash. Hand washing is the only way to go if you want to really protect your paint.
Probably came from drying the car, not washing it.
Even hand-washing can produce swirls if you aren't careful. As most of you know, it's a good idea before you even touch the car to run water over it to "float" as much debris off as you can, prior to applying a wash mitt or whatever you use.
Beware also of those high-pressure hoses in coin-op car washes. If held too close, they can blast off trim pieces and peel paint like an onion.
"...Beware also those high pressure hoses in coin-op car washes..."
I remember a previous poster warning that the hand brush in those washes can contain dirt which can scratch paint also.
I've always felt uncomfortable taking my car into those high pressure "touchless" washes as well. Our school district recently installed one to wash the buses and the water is blasting the lettering off the sides of the vehicles. That can't be doing the paint any good either.
Guess I'll just stick with my wash mitt and microfiber towels.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Comments
LWitt
I got into a minor accident in a car park when I collided into a stationary car while making a left turn. Now the front left side of the car's body is dented. It is the part just next to the front left head light. Some of the paint have peeled off. The head light is not damage and there is only a little scratch on the transparent plastic hood of the head light. There is no other damage to the car.
My insurance is with Progressive and the deductible is high ($1k), so I think I will have to pay for all the repair expenses and not be able to claim anything.
For the repair of the car, should I send it to the Progressive service center, or to the Honda dealer that I bought the car from (which is a reputable dealer)?
My main concern is to get a proper repair, and though cost is also a concern, it is not the most important factor.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
As for the repair, I would ask the dealer which body shop they use. I would get an estimate from them directly, and I would get an estimate from one other reputable shop. I'd probably not deal with the ins co, unless the number was significantly above my deductible.
Reading further is optional.....
As to the insurance thing, not sure what the rules are where you are, however in my state it works like this: Both people report the matter to their own insurance carriers, and file claims through them. The carriers pay their own insured, and then the carries discuss percentage of fault etc with each other, and come to settlement that way. So in short, if he files a claim, your carrier ultimately pays to have his car fixed. His insurance rates are not affected. Even if you do not file a claim (repair cost under deductible etc), you might be affected if they had to pay out to repair his car.
I'm not sure what the rules are around the fact that they know about the incident, if that affects you, and I'm sure that wiser heads on the Insurance boards can help, if you are interested.
I think my insurance premium will definitely go up the next time I am to renew it. I just hope it will not be a big jump
In the end I sent the car to Progressive's service center, because the entire process with them is much simpler.
They gave me a very detailed estimate after about two hours (which is accessible online, 6 pages long) and the total is about $1600, approximately $600 for parts and $800 for labor. When I first saw the cost I almost fell off my chair. To me, they are replacing quite a number of parts. For example, to me from outside the left headlight looks perfectly fine and it is still fully functional, but I was that when they examined it they found the mounting inside damaged and so the entire headlight has to be replaced. I am not too sure what I am going to do with the damaged headlight after they return it to me. I might try to turn it into an expensive spot light (:
Anyway, I have found the experience so far with Progressive to be positive. They are professional, and when I enquired about the cost they told me that they will give me all the receipts for the parts purchased, so everything seems very transparent. I guess the only thing I don't have control over is the labor cost for repair.
My wife called up our Honda dealer too and they told us that usually the insurance company will be able to repair for less. Overall, we were just quite shock to find that a repair which we deem quite simple and straight-forward could cost about 10% of the price of the car. The lesson learnt is that we now have to drive very very very carefully.
Thanks
http://pictures.aol.com/ap/singleImage.do?pid=e4d0KohkDfpU1AOpCCcIxjoW1teFXOQ*qJ- - Q4v4xQp5Fd3Ig%3D
http://pictures.aol.com/ap/singleImage.do?pid=e4d0KohkDfpU1AOpCCcIxjoW1iiFLjVcSu- - v9v4xQp5Fd3Ig%3D
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How would this be done? Drill the welds, realign, and re-weld/paint?
Use 1 and only 1 polish. It is called "Liquid Glass." You can find it at NAPA or Pep Boys. Trust me or see for yourself. Go to a car show, and I mean a top dollar show and ask the owners of these fine 100K cars what they use on the finish. The last time I went to the "Cavalcade of Wheels" all I saw were cans of Liquid Glass. It will even fill in the swirl marks in your clearcoat. It is a bit expensive, but withh all things, "you get what you pay for."
I thought I knew but now I'm not sure.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
You can test your car to see if it has clear coat by finding a hidden area and after making sure it is very clean, wipe it with a cotton cloth and a little bit of paint cleaner on it. If the paint color shows up on the cloth, you probably don't have clear coat.
hmmm... I thought all cars came with clearcoat.
Without going down the list of every manufacturer's paint processes, in general all modern cars use a 2 step "basecoat/clearcoat" process - I'd say everything in at least the last 10 years.
Actually I was asking about both. You guys answered my question very well. Thanks.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
I got good flow on the pontiac with canned paint. It is slighly dull.
I got some flow of paint on the Toyota, and it is dull.
Both cats need a clear coat. Do I need to hit both with 2000 grit wet to get more shine, before clear coat??
Not looking for perfection, just passable to sell both cars.
Thanks
Bill, the "shade tree mechanic of the Smokey Mountains"
Also is there anything special you can put on new lenses to prevent them from dulling up? :confuse:
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Asked the dealer if he had any touch-up paint for the dings which are sure to occur. He said they don't have touch-up paint in the little bottles anymore. he said they are more like a Magic Marker.
What's up with that? How do you apply that? Does it cover and last like the little nail polish bottles they used to have?
Man, it stinks to be so out of the loop.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Already tried soap and water, did not help. It's been 48 hours or more since it was sprayed.
Meguiar’s Professional Clay Bar (approximately $24.99), which is ideal for handling contaminated paint surfaces. Begin the process with a product such as Pinnacle Clay Lubricant, which will allow the Clay Bar to spread a lot easier.
Yep, it's about $35 in materials and a few hours work perhaps, but it's cheaper than a new paint job.
Unless you are doing a complete color change, and unless the old paint is totally screwed up with rust, checking, etc., you might not in fact have to remove all the old paint.
If you DO though, the shop is right--it's a long arduous task. Don't underestimate the hours, days, even weeks of work involved to strip a car to bare metal. Or the god-awful mess of it. Or the toxicity of the process.
Any suggestions on how to get it off without scratching the paint? :sick:
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
That's what my wife suggested but I wasn't talking to her after she defiled my baby.
Anyway, it was in the 50s this morning and I noticed I could just peel it off with my fingernail. Another cool morning any It'll be back to perfect.
I may trade in my wife though :mad:
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Rust never sleeps. You have to surgically remove it or you are wasting your time with fillers, cover-ups, etc.
I ask this because a woman at work has a car that is identical to mine. I hand wash and she almost always uses the local automatic wash. I noticed some really bad swirls in the paint on her hood while mine is still like a mirror.
Granted her car is two years older than mine but I wonder if the automatic wash did that.
What do the experts say?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Even hand-washing can produce swirls if you aren't careful. As most of you know, it's a good idea before you even touch the car to run water over it to "float" as much debris off as you can, prior to applying a wash mitt or whatever you use.
Beware also of those high-pressure hoses in coin-op car washes. If held too close, they can blast off trim pieces and peel paint like an onion.
I remember a previous poster warning that the hand brush in those washes can contain dirt which can scratch paint also.
I've always felt uncomfortable taking my car into those high pressure "touchless" washes as well. Our school district recently installed one to wash the buses and the water is blasting the lettering off the sides of the vehicles. That can't be doing the paint any good either.
Guess I'll just stick with my wash mitt and microfiber towels.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible