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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1856105159
I would certainly check on the car's authenticity and have it carefully examined for corrosion, body repairs, mechanical soundness and European monkey-business. These cars are rust-traps so you got to be cautious and meticulous in purchasing.
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Still, for basic transportation, any good running Benz is worth $2K. Just don't put any money in it.
Local third-rate used car lot has an '86 190E 2.3.
Body's in really good shape, interior is good (I think it's MB-TEX) with the exception of a cracked dash. 180k miles.
Everything works except the sunroof which is missing a switch. There's a small exhaust leak and the battery is shot. Other than that it's mechanically sound. They're asking $1,750.
So. For a run around town car, whaddya think? What issues should I be looking for?
TIA.
If the engine's good and the transmission's good, offer like $1,300 cash and then run! People turn weak when they see you have it in cash.
This person needs a Toyota Corolla, BADLY, I think.
Frankly, I just see a classic Money Pit happening here, with no good side to the argument that I can pull out of the hat.
If they MUST have a cheap Benz from the 80s, let it be either a 2.6 or a 300 diesel or turbo diesel.
A Volvo 240 wouldn't be a bad idea actually. They are fairly simple unsophisticated cars that can take a beating. Not cheap to fix, but certainly less complex than a Benz would be from that era.
I agree that anything that cheap and Japanese is a dead horse already.
Geez, Shifty, it's a Mercedes, not a Boeing.
This place knows a thing or two about Benzes. It's Volvos they do on the side. Let's put it this way: Last time I was in there for brakes, the other bays were taken up by an S320, a Jag XJ6, A Ferrari 328, and (inexplicably) a Jetta. They're knowledgeable.
As well, in this area there are precisely two 240s for sale...both '91s, and both out of the target price range. Trust me, I push the Swedish iron first, and if that's rejected I go for the secondaries...I figured you'd know that by now.
There is, however, an '88 180k mile Volvo 740 non-turbo for sale near here...don't know what the asking price is, though.
I certainly wouldn't advise anyone of limited means to look for a BMW of the same era, either. I think even the 3s are problematic, I'd sooner buy a 190E 2.3. Yes, 180k is a lot of miles, but as we all know, Mercedes can go for the long haul (mom's 300E has 325k on it as we speak, on the original engine and transmission).
FWIW, I think an old Honda or Toyota would be OK. The rust issues, while they can be serious, I think have been greatly exaggerated here. I just bought an '87 Accord for $500, it does have some body rust, but is still quiet, smooth and solid in general. I'm sure he can find a decent '80s Accord or Camry for less than $2k. Stick the child seat in the middle of the rear seat, done.
What about a Taurus? They're big, safe and cheap. There are hundreds of Tauri and Sables under $2k around here.
Get an old Volvo 240. They are very strong and cheaper to fix and don't break down as much.
Or buy a 2.6 or 300 series and spend the extra money now rather than later.
I'd sooner want a $1500 240 than a $1500 190E in any case.
I think you could buy a Volvo 240 for $1,500 but it wouldn't necessarily be pretty. They high Blue Book on the early ones is only around $1,900 anyway.
I wouldn't touch a Benz that wasn't very clean and had good maintenance records. You buy a shabby Benz with no history and you are in for a Bloodbath.
Give you an idea, I bought a mint 300D, and even with all my connections and salvage yard scrounges and freeloading off shops I know, it still costs me $100 a month to keep the car on the road. Can you imagine what it would cost someone who pays retail for everything?
They are like bank accounts. If you drive and drive and only make withdrawals (called "miles") and don't make many deposits, (called "preventive maintenance and repairs", you are going to end up bankrupt (called "junking the car because it isn't worth fixing).
Sure I could let some things go on my old Benz--who really need to right rear power window to work? And so what if the power antenna won't go down anymore? And those old hoses and belts, hey, they're working, right?
The old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theory" has some merit, but like most good ideas, extended to their extremes turn into bad ideas.
Soon it turns into "But it DID break, and now I Can't fix it".
-Jason
Some damn fool will buy it, and then we'll see it on Ebay again. Damn, Ebay is brilliant, isn't it? They registered 3 billion in car sales I'm told. 'Course, I don't think too much of that went to them, but still, it's an impressive amount of business.
Let's just say they were pioneers in the European luxury sedan field and needed to mature and develop a lot more before they were ready for the US market. Ditto Jaguar
Of course, you can modify and upgrade these old cars and make them considerably better. For a Bavaria, if you could ditch the catalytics, use fuel injection rather than carbs and work on the overheating issues, you'd be a long way to a better car.
But really, anyone who sinks money into a Bavaria rather than a 635 CSi....well, I just don't get it.
Umm, I don't really think that's the point at all. If you want Lexus quiet, buy a Lexus. If you want a really expensive Super Beetle, buy a Porsche.
Once used up, most Japanese cars will be thrown away, but only because they won't be worth the cost of restoration. An old 1983 Japanese car is worth $800. However, at $20,000 , a 20-year-old Porsche SC might be worth fixing (if it isn't rusted beyond hope. Rust in a Porsche body is fatal, as the body is the frame.)
So that''s why it doesn't matter if a Porsche engine is noisy. Owners don't WANT them to be quiet. In fact, that would be the worst thing you could do.
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In respect of the big-body cars, I think that would rather be a valid concern for the first 5 years or so of the 140 S-class (say, '92 - '96).
The predecessor 126 S-class, esp '87 or so - '91, were some of the best cars M-B every built and rely on relatively inexpensive (to maintain and repair) vacuum systems or electro-mechanical systems rather than the 140's computer controlled and electronic devices, and they are relatively easy to work on for an experienced DIY (tho some tasks still need a professional). Good independent M-B shops who can care for a 126 are relatively common and cost-effective.
The community of knowledgeable 126 owners (for advice and assistance) is unmatched and parts are widely available for relatively reasonable prices (compared to, e.g., Lexus LS400 prices. Nobody (including M-B) is still building them like the 126s anymore -- these cars still provide a driving and riding experience reasonably comparable to current luxury models.
As Shifty says, you have to spend the $$ on preventative maintenance and renewal -- but even at $1,200 - $1,500 per year and a purchase price in the teens, you've got a dollar-effective luxury ride that's hard to beat.
i'm also trying to find out what would be a fair price to offer on one of these.
any inputs would be appreciated as im trying to get as much info as possible before i go out and buy one.
Avoid neglected cars at all costs (look bad, smell bad, you know the type). I'd say a budget of $6,500 should find you a very nice car. They are plentiful and their prices are not driven by any "collectibility" issues.
If you look at convertibles, you will pay a few thousand more of course, and some years have very irksome convertible top mechanisms, so be sure to work the top up and down any number of times, including the securing lid.