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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • john45john45 Posts: 18
    I would check you fuse box for blow fuses. Also some vehicles have an additional Metal type Fuse under the hood. If that fails to produce results, possible bad fan?


    I have no idea about what happened??? Went to turn on the defrost and my blows dont blow any more !!! Does anyone know why? Cant find my book.....

    Help me someone!

  • inaina Posts: 5
    My blower on my heater/AC stopped working on 1 2 3 . I called a garage, and they said it could be the resistor. I had a hard time finding all the fuse boxes and checking them. Now does anyone know where the resistor is in a 1999 Toyota Corolla and is it easy for me to replace it myself, if I am not too familiar with repairs? What # is the part? I hear horror stories that may have to take the glove box out or the dash apart. I tried the Owners manual, couldn't find it. Is it in there?
    Thanks, Ina :(
  • inaina Posts: 5
    My Heater/AC blower stopped working on 1 2 3 . I called a garage and they said, it may be the resistor. I had a hard time finding all the fuse boxes, to see if it was a fuse! Not a fuse, it would of been too easy. Does anyone know where the resistor is located? Is it easy to replace myself, with limited knowledge? Please don't tell me that I have to remove the glove box or dash.
    Thanks, Ina :cry:
  • laszlolaszlo Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Corolla with OEM GoodYear Integrity tires. At 23500 kms (17687 miles) the tire is at 7/32, just above the acceptable level. Have not experienced other problems so far, but the edge of the tire is almost bald and will have them replaced very soon - the replacement will not be GoodYear.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    If the edges are badly worn at 17k, you've got a suspension/alignment problem. Don't be too quick to blame the tires.
  • jreyesjreyes Posts: 1
    i have a 79 toy and i have a motor of a mazda rx7 89 fuel injected.. i would like to put the motor of this mazda in the body of toy..would like to know where i could find the hairnest so i can complete this ...??? someone help..thankslink titleimage
  • john45john45 Posts: 18
    A disengaged gear in a manual trans is illegal-I think. The saftey issue is that once it is coasting in neutual in perhaps a downhill situation it will become impossible to reengage into gear for control and stopping. The solution for that if it occurs is to increast rpm like 1200 by steeping on the gas so that the trans can go in gear easier. One could engage a 5sp transmission this way without using the clutch at all. I personally, would rather replace brakes pads (orgainic only! never semi-metallic) than replace a clutch and/or the transmission due to downshifting wear. That doesn't include the increase wear to the engine while each downshift increases gas consumption/idle. Go figure? what to do? :)
  • john45john45 Posts: 18
    You could check out the "forks" this is located and bolted on the transmission with a tube going into it. when you step on the pedel it compresses clutch fluid to a mini-hydralic stem-the size of a pen cap. This provides the transmission for engagement. Put the vehicle e-brake on. Have someone you trust depress the clutch while you are underneath the car to locate the noise. I'm probally wrong, but it might help you narrow down the problem. The forks cost appox 20 bucks.

  • wyldcatzwyldcatz Posts: 17
    Not sure if this will help, but I installed a single CD player on my 1990 Acura a few years ago, and one of the features is a security "key", which is a CD that I programmed into it so that if the battery is disconnected somehow (through repairs, or theft attempt), the radio/CD player is rendered useless unless the person inserts that key CD. Because I'm getting ready to trade it in, I made sure to reprogram the security key with a CD that I don't want to keep, so that I can include it with the car when I get rid of it.

    Sounds like something similar is happening with your system. Did you get any documentation with the car regarding the radio/cassette player? If not, maybe you can contact the radio dealer to see if there's a way around it.
  • rr2rr2 Posts: 1
    I recenty bought a 2005 corolla. I had parked my car on a slope today. I found out that as soon as I started the car and took my foot off the brake, it moved backwards. I don't think I ever experienced that with a Toyota Camry I had prior to this car, so I am not sure if there is a problem with my new car. I would appreciate any ideas on this. Thanks.
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    What did you expect it to do? Hill+gravity+weight of car= movement unless its interrupted by brake application or engine power in the opposite direction.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    You want the technical answer? It has to do with the stall speed on the torque converter, and how much torque the engine generates at ide, and just off-idle. Simplified, it means there is not enough torque being passed through the transmission at idle to keep the car from rolling back, absent some push on the accelerator pedal.

    This is a lot more common than you think - only a transmission with a really low stall speed, and a fair amount of torque at idle, is going to hold a 3000 lb car on any kind of slope with no throttle input. In any case, it is not a problem, just a characteristic.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    You guys are missing the point. They were parked nose down. Its definitely the anti-gravity torque ratio guidance lever. It needs adjustment.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    ....or something like that....
  • bb2101bb2101 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2005 corolla that is less than one week old. If the car runs for 30 minutes and I shut it off, and wait about 20 minutes, it just cranks and cranks but won't start till the fourth try. It is at the dealer now, and I am expecting to hear, there is nothing wrong!!!!
  • ganggang Posts: 15
    I have a 2003 Corolla LE with automatic transmission (17K miles). If I speed it up gradually, no problem. But if I cruise for a while and drop the speed a bit, then during the time I speed it up again it feels like the car is being dragged for about half a second around the speed of 40 mph. It doesn't happen all the time, but it is a little annoying. Is this something I should be concerned and have the dealer check it up?

    Many thanks for suggestions...
  • corrola99corrola99 Posts: 1
    Hi All -

    The "Engine check" light lit on my dashboard of my 1999 48K-mile corolla. I just brought it in to have an oil change done in the morning; it came on in that afternoon. It runs fine, as I have been driving it the past 3 days. How do I turn the light off? And what should I do next? Thanks.
  • hellofunhellofun Posts: 1
    I bought a used 2000 toyota collora yesterday, the prevous owner told me that he just changed 2 oxigen sensors 2 days ago. I wonder is it a serious problem for change oxigen sensors ?

    This morning I found the light was on which means some problems occurr, shall I take is to the dealer to have a check immediately?

    I'm a new driver, don't know anything about the car, Thanks for help !
  • john45john45 Posts: 18
    The newer cars work this way:

    hold down the trip odometer pin while the car is off. Then turn the key to the ON position, do not start the car because it is not needed, while you are holding down the trip odometer pin. You should see a count down 4 3 2 1 then the light will go off. I'm not sure if it will work on a 1999.


    ps. I would recommend the fuel filters too if it is plastic. I think the metal canisters are a little different in maintenance.
  • I have an '02 corolla, automatic transmission. I've had it for more than 3 years now. Lately the engine has been rattling/sputtering when I accelerate. It's not very loud, but it definitely is noticeable and starting to happen consistently. Any thoughts?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    Just a suggestion, but I would first have the fuel filter checked. It is one of the least expensive but at the same time the most common reason for problems that you're describing. If it is plugged, it would cause what you're describing. Hope that is what it is.

  • lynnbrlynnbr Posts: 2
    I have 2000 corolla ve. Last weekend I cleaned the throttle body using Valvoline carb/choke & throttle body cleaner. I only took of the intake hose. There was lots of liquid from the cleaner spray, so I had to clean it with a rag. Anyway, I cleaned the throttle body, started the engine. Everything is fine, but I feel less powerful than before when in acceleration. I kept thinking what I did wrongly. Last night, I noticed a continuous 'hiss' when the engine is running. I don't know if it is a leak of one hose, or connection, or engine compression?

    Anotherthing is that the engine is kind of shaking all the time. Is it because it is made of aluminum?


  • bal123bal123 Posts: 1
    Suddenly the lock in one of the passenger side door is not opening, it got struck in down position. I tried to open thru power lock as well as with key, its not opening. Any idea what th problem might be
  • stratojetstratojet Posts: 2
    I have a good friend who's a service manager at a Toyota Dealer . They now have full time trim man for fixing rattles in Corollas. When I was there, they had one in the shop with the dash pad removed; cause: finding a rattle. It is quite common .
  • lucian95lucian95 Posts: 11
    I just bought a replacement set of 4 tires for my Corolla. These are Falken ZIEX ZE-512 from Discount Tire, $45 per tire (195/65/15). What a difference compared to original Integrity tires. Car feels a lot more surefooted in any form of driving. I would highly recommend Falkens fto everyone looking for an inexpensive alternative.
  • jyopitrejyopitre Posts: 1
    I have a well maintained 2002 Corolla with almost 130,000 miles on it. Last year, while on the road, the car stopped and when check, it was found that the cam sproket of the engine had broken and the engine had to be replaced. That was fixed and the car was like new again... and there were no problems, until last week... I got the regular oil change done and a day or two after that, the car started showing the check engine llight. On further diagnosis, the mechanic told us that there was a problem with the oxygen sensor (something like the oxygen sensor was open). I am not sure what that really means, but, we were told that it would cost us about a 1000 dollars!!!! Does anyone have an idea if this cost is realilstic and could anyone throw some more light on this.

    Thank you.
  • i3000gtii3000gti Posts: 2
    Are you still having the problem? I have a '01 corolla auto with injen intake and its doing the same thing. I have about 53k on it. I just did a tune up, replaced the spark plugs, pcv valve, oil change, tranny service and it didn't help. Let me know what you did to fix this problem.

    O yeah does anyone know what a Fuel trim valve is? The dealer was going to charge me 294 for it, and i called up the parts department and they said no such part.
  • leyzurelaleyzurela Posts: 13
    just bought a corolla s 2 days ago. Noticed yesterday (while driving for about 20 minutes on the freeway and then on the streets towards my destination) a whistling noise. it was around 95-100 degrees outside. I couldnt hear it at first due to my radio being on, but as on as I turned it off there was a whistle noise coming from the front of the car. It sounded quiet until I opened the window and it was pretty loud. The whistling noise begins when I take my foot off the gas pedal. I dont have the brakes pressed or the gas pressed. when I go to brake and when my foot is changing from gas to brake (while my foot is in the air between the pedals) the sound starts. This was when the sound was most prominent. I noticed when my husband made a turn that there was a louder whistle but it only did it at that turn and not again when we turned again. We got to our destination and after seeing a movie we got in the car to drive home. Now there is no whistle. Well, not like before, this time it was more intermittent, like it happened whenever it wanted to and wasnt as loud. It was also short and brief. this morning we drove it to the dealership and now there is no noise at all!! I dont know what to do since the mechanics cannot repair something they cant duplicate. I noticed though the whistling happened at a time during the day when the temperature was hotter. When we drove it home the temperature was around 79 degrees also this morning when we took it to the dealership it was fairly cool. does anyone know what this is? I searched the forums but couldnt find anything quite like my problem. thanks for any help!
  • leyzurelaleyzurela Posts: 13
    oh forgot to say my car is an automatic
  • 01loadedle01loadedle Posts: 23
    you guys need to try cleaning your maf sensor that may help. its behind the air filter facing the brake fluid filler and has a wiring clip and is only attached with 2 screws so its easy to take off and spray clean with throttle body spray cleaner, or electrical contact cleaner. O2 sensors don't like silicone at all & it'll confuse the MAF as well so dont buy anything with that in it.
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