This happens when cold rainwater hits the spring-loaded bolts that connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold and causes the connection to loosen momentarily. Snowy slush will also cause this. Over time, if not fixed, the condition deteriorates and the noise is present even without going through a puddle - along with the strong smell of engine exhaust in the cabin. I was quoted $300.00 by one repair shop to replace the exhaust flange gasket on a '99 Prizm and another pretended not to know what I was talking about. I had to go to a dealer for the gasket, $50.00 and the bolts, $25.00 and ended up doing it myself. Soaked existing bolts in WD-40 overnight and they came out just like that! You also need to remove O2 sensor to get one of the bolts out and the the pipe slides over with just enough room to slip out the old doughnut and put the new one in. Good luck.
I have a 1996 DX Corolla. My problem is i'm haveing problem starting it at time. Sometime I get the "click" noise when I turn the engine but after the second or third try the car turns and i'm good for the rest of the day. It will happen off and on sometime. Today I had the same problem and heard the "click" and i was able to start it on the 3rd try. I cut it off and started it again to make sure it ran but this time the Engine kept running when I cut the key and it still ran when i pulled the key out. The engine go a little louder and sound very different then normal. i put the key back in and turn it and try to cut it off again with nothing. the engine kept running at louder sound then the try it again with the key and this time the engine went to sound normal and you could tell the different in the noise. and i was able to cut it off once it got back to the normal sound.
Now my question is it still the starter or the Soilonid (spelling) or is it something else.
See postings #2972 and #2977. Get your starter/solenoid checked out immediately, otherwise you may end up with same situation as us. (MELT DOWN!) Don't delay 'cause it can get real ugly fast. A new wiring harness is also very expensive.
Hi- Anyone having a problem with rain leaks in a 2003 Corolla? They started exactly one week after the 3 year warranty expired. The passenger front seat carpet is soaked, and I have 2-3 inches of water in the rear passenger compartment. I have high pressure sprayed the passenger side of the car top and bottom for hours on end. Sprayed under the hood, under the car, into the heater/ac inlet under the windshield...No leaks. We had 8" of rain in 9 hours...no leaks. We get a drizzle and the front carpet is wet from the bottom. Dealer wants to charge me $90 per hour to spray the car to test for leaks! I can spray just as good as a Toyota factory trained tech! Anyone else with this problem. I removed the rubber plugs in the floor to let the water drain out. I also built a baffle in front of the heater/ac intake under the windshield. Still leaks. Gonna drown! Please help. Thanks.
Just a thought, but I had the same problem with a different make and model. The dealer completely removed everything from the interior of the car and could not find the reason the floor flooded with water. Do you use your a/c before this happens? My problem was that the a/c evaporator box water drain tube became disconnected and the condensed water from the a/c would run out of the box and drain between the inside of the firewall at the top of the footrest and the top edge of the carpeting. Also, if that box is cracked on the bottom, it will leak condensed water created by the a/c. The a/c can produce quite a bit of water, especially if it's humid. I'm not sure about the '03 Corolla model, but in previous models the a/c was also activated in defrost mode too. The leak wasn't even visible because it was dripping right in between there. The condensed water from the a/c does not drain from the same place as the ducts for the heater/ac air inlet. It has it's own drain path. That drain outlet or tube could be clogged too. Good luck.
Recently, I have been having problems with squeaky noise when I initially start my car during rainy weather. I am clueless when it comes to cars. But, I have been able to find some info on the net that this may be due to car's belt or belt tensioner. Am I on the right path? I have an appointment setup with local toyota dealer for this problem. My car does not have any other problems. And, it has been hardly driven for 37000 mile.
If any one else has gone through this, please advise what should be my financial damage for this.
First do not go to a Dealer for repairs, I never as of yet seen a Dealer that was not a rip off, If you have to go to a repair shop, go to a independent repair shop, As for your noise, make sure your air conditioning is off before starting car, then go to a Auto parts store like Auto Zone and buy a can of spray belt dressing and spray your belt, my corolla belt squeaked till I did that, if this does not do the trick, it is possible that one of your belt pulley bearings are dry or est. but its noting to worry about till the noise gets real bad, but may never happen, I say you can live with the noise to see if it ever gets worse and if the spray dresing does not work.
Thanks Alex24 for a quick reply. My appointment with the dealer is on Tuesday, October 30th. So, I still have some time to play with your suggestion. I'll get a can for spray belt dressing tomorrow. I don't know the definition of worse. But, today after an over night rain, the car made squeaky noise for about 10 minutes after the initial startup.
I am really clueless as to where on the belt to spray. So, do you have a link to somewhere on the web where it shows picture I can follow.
My 1993 Corolla with 125 K miles did not start. It seemed a problem with the ignition from basic checks.
I got it towed to the hackensack toyota dealer and he told it is a problem with the starter it is burnt and charged me 277 $ part and 187 Labor for that.
Then he called me and told the DISTRIBUTOR is not working and he will have to replace it The cost is 693 Part and 187 labor. :-( poor me. Total 1400 $
I told him look this is an old car and I came to you for your diagonistic expertise. If you diagonsed earlier and found the starter problem and made me change it and now you are finding the distributor problem and later if u find some other problem I dont want to fix it.
You complete your diagnostic and give me an estimate - then i will decide if i want to go ahead with the repair.
Then he assured me that this was all it ..then i told him if it does not work after the distributor is installed i dont want the distributor. He said no.. that is not possible. Then I asked him to try it out with old one. Then with the shop forman he agreed to put the part and not charge me for it if it did not work but I would still be responsible for the starter he changed.
This is not the kind of service we should expect from such a reputed authorised service center. He did not do any diagnostic and said we do it as we go. What is the quality of the diagonistic then and why should we pay so much for services for which better diagnostics should be done. I asked him to keep my old parts .
Folks please advise me ...I am feeling completely fleeced !!
Hi, I just had same problems on my 99 Corolla...starter would not stop eventough the key was turned off and pulled out many times...took the car to a small garage and they told me it was very difficult to pinpoint the problem. I suggested they changed the started but they talked me out of it....I live in Canada where winters are super cold and very hard on the battery... Has anyone heard anything from Toyota regarding this bizarre problem...after reading your comments I think I<ll change the starter anyway...could it be simply a faulty selonoid :confuse:
I did have problems with starting the car in cold winter mornings prior to this. But I did not do anything since after some time this problem went away.
I please request all to chim in.. as to how can I ensure I was not getting fleeced. For all they say the diagnostic service is completely stupid and outright unprofessional.
I was given some scribbned handwritten notes on the estimates !! It is going to take me forever to earn the 1400 $ back I am set back with !!
were you able to resolve this issue. I have the same problem. I plugged my Sirius car radio into the lighter and the radion and clock went out. The fuses seem to be OK though. I would appreciate your help.
I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla that the same thing happens to it. My fuses were actually blown in the fuse box located in the engine block. I took mine to the dealership and they advised me never to plug in any kind of charger into the lighter. They did say that I could buy a Toyota made charger that I could purchase, but I just avoid plugging in anything all together.
Recently (less than a month) I had a problem with my Driveaxles and had to get them replaced. The front end was making a rubbing sound like when you have something that is not round and when it is spun it always hits on that spot. I had the car aligned afterwards. Well the issue is pretty much the same thing (same kind of sound) does this mean that the Driveaxles are already shot and I need to get new ones? I also noticed that after taking off the tire that you could see the gear like part at the end of the Boot. Any advice would be great. Thanks,
anyone have an issue with their brakes squeaking all the time in all kinds of weather? mine wont stop squeaking. the mechanic has tried everything. they work fine but that damned squeak...
My son recently purchased a used 05 Corolla with 34,000 miles on it. Now it has 40,000 miles. Before driving home for Thanksgiving he changed the oil. There is a dashboard maintenance light which came on intermittently before he drove home, after the trip back to school, the light is on continuously. My husband says there is a maintenance log reset or some such thing that wasn't done when the oil was changed and that is why the light is coming on. Is this true and if it is, how do you reset the maintenance log? We do not have an owner's manual.
It is a very simple process that involves holding down the trip odometer reset and turning the key, but I cannot remember the specifics. Hopefully, someone here will go out and look in their owner's manual and give you the instructions. I can give you the instructions from my '07 Camry manual later, since it will likely be the same as the Corolla.
Don't go to the dealer for a 1 minute job. Someone here will eventually help, or do a search for the procedure on the internet. It is just a reminder to change your oil, so it won't hurt anything to keep driving with the light on for the time being.
1. Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position with the odometer reading shown. (For details, see “Odometer and two trip meters” on page 104 in this Section.)
2. Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position while holding down the trip meter reset knob. Hold down the button for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates “000000” and the light goes off.
If the system fails to reset, the light will continue flashing.
me and my friends are making a road trip to snowshoe wv and we will have to go through the mountains. i was wondering if anyone can tell me how corollas preform on mountain terrain or give me any help thanks.
me and my friends are making a road trip to snowshoe wv and we will have to go through the mountains. i was wondering if anyone can tell me how corollas preform on mountain terrain or give me any help thanks.
I have been to the Snowshoe WV area 10+ times, and all but a few have been in a Corolla. It performs great, (mine is a manual transmission) but it does require some downshifting to maintain speeds uphill from time to time. But this is fun for me. On some of the steep downhills, I downshift to keep from using the brakes too much.
Overall, it is no speed demon, but you will have no problems with your Corolla in WV. By the way, they build Corolla engines at the Toyota plant in WV.
Scroll down past the image of the car, the reference to the Wiring Diagram via AllData, past the Ads by Google, till you see Download | Mirror and right click >> save as.
:surprise:
Click on Download.
You'll find 113MB of a zipped up .PDF Service Manual for a 1994 Toyota Corolla. Included in the .ZIP archive is a 307 page .PDF wiring manual. I'm looking at it right now.
It truly doesn't get much better than that. :shades:
I have a 98 Corolla with 120,000 miles on it. It's been burning oil. It runs great but I am just concerned why is it burning oil. I know these cars go past 200,000 miles but is it normal to be burning oil this early?
See post (2/25/07) #2820 & 2748 (1/10/07). I also replaced the engine on a 2001 4 cyl Corolla, Jan 07, with 84,000 that was burning 1 to 2 quarts every time the gas tank was to be filled since about 64,000 miles. The piston rod finally broke and that was it. We unfortunately purchased it with 52,000 and had no recourse with Toyota Customer Service.
Apparently this was an inherent problem with theis engine so we had to be very concerned with a replacement engine block, etc. This was a year ago and so far so good.
I have the same year, same problem as yours, I tryed every thing, could not fine the problem why my oil was disappearing, So a Summit Racing Tech. told me to switch brands of oil, So I switch from Castrol 10/30 to Penzoil 10/30 and this helped a great deal, but I still loose oil but not to bad at all now.
my 98 corolla number 1 piston rod broke and went through my block, this engine ran perfect, there was no explanation for this to happen, So I put in a 99 engine in place from the auto wrecking yard, and this one is running good but I have a oil disappering problem, no leaks, and it does not look like its burning it, as I switched brands of oil and that did help alot but still not perfect, So some of these engine do have a major problem thats hard to explain.
1999 corolla - always starts when its warm out. now, with recent cold weather it won't start! new battery installed, when you turn the ignition the engine seems to be just short of turning over. One time the engine stalled while driving at slow speed.
when the outside air warms up later in the morning - it turns over.
back to basics....pull the spark plugs, examine them, do a compression test.
Cold start issues are usually ignition related or compression related....not always, but it's a good and easy place to start.
If plugs are good and compression is good, then I'd check the cold start circuit, to see if the fuel mixture is being enrichened enough for cold weather starting. This may related to temperature sensors.
You might try a judicious squirt of starting ether in the air cleaner. If the engine kicks right off, then it could very well be an enrichment problem.
Seems like we have the same problem as some of you. We bought this car and one week later the oil light came on. We had the oil changed and one week later it came on again. Had it re-filled...smae thing. It never leaves a puddle and the exhaust isn't dark. We have had 3 different mechanics look at it now. The first two "fixed" something but the problem remains. This last one ran an oil test and told us that it basically needs a whole new engine for :confuse: $2,000. So the question is; do we fix it? Or are we likely to just have more problems?
Yes I have the same problem with my 98 corolla 4 cyl. I change the PVC valve, and it did not help, Summit racing tech. told me to try changing brands of oil, because some brands just evaperate or get burned into the piston without making the dark exhaust color, so I switch from castrol 10w/30 to penzoil 10w/30 and it sure did help some before I was losing a Quart every 400 miles and now I only lose a half a Quart every 2000 miles, amazed it just does not make logic, but I think you should just use your engine till it goes, then get a engine at the junk yard for approx $500. they are very easy to install yourself, I put one in before, comes out easy from the top.
that observation sure does defy explaination. if the weight of the oil were different, it would make more sense. otherwise, if it's possible, i'd like to think a stuck piston ring or clogged passage somewhere just became liberated.
My son has a 1994 Corolla and sometimes the overdrive light starts flashing and it feels as though it's running in first gear when this happens. It does pass eventually but it happens nearly everytime he drives it. Our transmission shop has been unable to pull up any codes on it. Any ideas? The car has 119,000 miles on it. He just purchased it used.
Comments
Now my question is it still the starter or the Soilonid (spelling) or is it something else.
Sorry for the long post.
Good luck!
If any one else has gone through this, please advise what should be my financial damage for this.
Thanks.
I am really clueless as to where on the belt to spray. So, do you have a link to somewhere on the web where it shows picture I can follow.
Please , Please help me !!
My 1993 Corolla with 125 K miles did not start. It seemed a problem with the ignition from basic checks.
I got it towed to the hackensack toyota dealer and he told it is a problem with the starter it is burnt
and charged me 277 $ part and 187 Labor for that.
Then he called me and told the DISTRIBUTOR is not working and he will have to replace it The cost is 693 Part and 187 labor. :-( poor me. Total 1400 $
I told him look this is an old car and I came to you for your diagonistic expertise. If you diagonsed earlier and found the starter problem and made me change it and now you are finding the distributor problem and later if u find some other problem I dont want to fix it.
You complete your diagnostic and give me an estimate - then i will decide if i want to go ahead with the repair.
Then he assured me that this was all it ..then i told him if it does not work after the distributor is installed
i dont want the distributor. He said no.. that is not possible. Then I asked him to try it out with old one.
Then with the shop forman he agreed to put the part and not charge me for it if it did not work but I would still be responsible for the starter he changed.
This is not the kind of service we should expect from such a reputed authorised service center. He did not do any diagnostic and said we do it as we go. What is the quality of the diagonistic then and why should we pay so much for services for which better diagnostics should be done.
I asked him to keep my old parts .
Folks please advise me ...I am feeling completely fleeced !!
I please request all to chim in.. as to how can I ensure I was not getting fleeced. For all they say the diagnostic service is completely stupid and outright unprofessional.
I was given some scribbned handwritten notes on the estimates !! It is going to take me forever to earn the 1400 $ back I am set back with !!
Mike
My opinion: go on eBay or search the internet, or go to the dealer and purchase an owner's manual, and give it to your son for the holidays.
Don't go to the dealer for a 1 minute job. Someone here will eventually help, or do a search for the procedure on the internet. It is just a reminder to change your oil, so it won't hurt anything to keep driving with the light on for the time being.
1. Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position with the odometer reading shown. (For details, see “Odometer and two trip meters” on page 104 in this Section.)
2. Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position while holding down the trip meter reset knob. Hold down the button for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates “000000” and the light goes off.
If the system fails to reset, the light will continue flashing.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://pdftown.com/Toyota-Camry-1994-Service-Manual.html
thanks.
thanks.
Overall, it is no speed demon, but you will have no problems with your Corolla in WV. By the way, they build Corolla engines at the Toyota plant in WV.
Enjoy the trip, WV is great!
Go back to this site by clicking on the link. I'll repeat it again here:
http://pdftown.com/Toyota-Camry-1994-Service-Manual.html
Scroll down past the image of the car, the reference to the Wiring Diagram via AllData, past the Ads by Google, till you see Download | Mirror and right click >> save as.
:surprise:
Click on Download.
You'll find 113MB of a zipped up .PDF Service Manual for a 1994 Toyota Corolla. Included in the .ZIP archive is a 307 page .PDF wiring manual. I'm looking at it right now.
It truly doesn't get much better than that. :shades:
enjoy.
Apparently this was an inherent problem with theis engine so we had to be very concerned with a replacement engine block, etc. This was a year ago and so far so good.
google it.
You can also put a dye in the oil, then lift the car and shoot a black light on it, and if there's a hidden leak it will show up with the light.
How much oil are you losing, say per 1000 miles?
new battery installed, when you turn the ignition the engine seems to be just short of turning over. One time the engine stalled while driving at slow speed.
when the outside air warms up later in the morning - it turns over.
suggestions
Cold start issues are usually ignition related or compression related....not always, but it's a good and easy place to start.
If plugs are good and compression is good, then I'd check the cold start circuit, to see if the fuel mixture is being enrichened enough for cold weather starting. This may related to temperature sensors.
You might try a judicious squirt of starting ether in the air cleaner. If the engine kicks right off, then it could very well be an enrichment problem.
Don't overdo it. Couple squirts is Plenty.
Hard call, here, because a '95 Corolla, all clean and pretty, is only worth maybe $3,000--$3500 right now.